How To Vinyl Wrap Interior Trim

How to Wrap Your Interior Trim With 3M Carbon Fiber Vinyl

These are step-by-step instructions for wrapping the interior of your vehicle with carbon fiber vinyl. I’ve done this on a number of different automobiles, and the process can be applied to just about anything; some people even use it to wrap the hood or trunk lid of their vehicles with this material. Materials and tools required: -3M Di-Noc (dinitrotoluene) There are several various kinds of carbon fiber vinyl available, including varying tints of carbon fiber. Its color (CA-421) corresponds to the conventional black and grey-ish carbon fiber appearance).

If you’re interested, you should look at their website.

Step 1: Step 1: Measure Trim

As closely as you can, measure the trim, allowing at least a half inch of excess on each side of what you want to wrap, ideally more like an inch just in case. In most circumstances, you may accomplish this while driving; just make sure to account for any curves or irregularities that you may encounter along the way. Following the completion of the measurements for each component that will be wrapped, you may determine how much material will be required. Typically, it is supplied on a 24″ roll, therefore you will need to calculate how many feet you will use in total from that 24″ roll.

Step 2: Step 2: Remove Trim

The “optimal” method to go about this is to totally remove any trim from the automobile that you intend to wrap before you begin wrapping it. Some people choose to cover the trim directly on the automobile by just placing it over the area they wish to cover and clipping off the excess, but I believe that it is vital to wrap the trim around the rear on each edge in order to prevent it from peeling off on a hot summer day. I prefer to use plastic trim removal tools (such as the ones depicted) rather than screwdrivers or other metal equipment to avoid hurting the trim or the leather surrounding it.

Step 3: Step 3: Applying the Vinyl

Once you’ve cut out all of the pieces you’ll need, begin by peeling away the backing paper from the piece you’ll be working with and placing it adhesive side up on a workbench or table to dry. To begin assembling, carefully put the trim piece on top of the trim to ensure that the basic alignment is achieved. Fortunately, the glue is forgiving, and it can be readily removed and reapply in the event that you make a mistake. Once you’ve completed the basic alignment, you may proceed to make your way around the remainder of the flat surfaces until you reach the corners of the building.

Because vinyl responds very strongly to heat, exercise caution and avoid heating it to a high temperature, as it will melt if you do.

As soon as you get close to the edge of the molding, you may trim the vinyl to fit the space, leaving approximately a quarter inch extra to wrap around the back.

When you flip the vinyl over to the reverse, make sure you use the heat gun to ensure that it holds incredibly well once it has cooled.

Step 4: Step 4: Reinstall Trim

After you’ve finished wrapping all of the trim, you may proceed to reinstall it. If you’ve done everything right, it should be able to withstand the elements on a hot summer day. You can clip the vinyl off exactly at the edge if there are any parts where you are unable to wrap it all the way around to the backside for whatever reason; however, I would recommend adding extra glue in these regions to guarantee that it does not pull back. Now take a step back and enjoy your accomplishment!

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As automobiles get older, interior trim components can get discolored, damaged, and, if they are coated, they can even start to peel away from the vehicle. The growth of a trend and the emergence of a new technique to convert that dated interior has occurred over the past few of years. It makes use of a type of adhesive-backed vinyl that becomes flexible when exposed to heat. Major corporations like as 3M have developed their own vinyl, which is now widely recognized as the industry standard.

  • From a plain matte black to a purple carbon fiber, there are several color and texture options to choose from on this model.
  • This 2000 BMW E39 M5 was delivered from the factory with silver brushed aluminum trim pieces, but as you can see, they are in desperate need of replacement.
  • The vinyl I picked is quite comparable in appearance to the original, and it even has a feel that is identical to the original.
  • It is possible to wrap the automobile while it is still in motion, but for the best results, it is best if all of the trim pieces are removed entirely prior to starting the procedure.
  • Look out the right technique to remove the trim for your individual vehicle before you begin; this will save you time and lessen the likelihood of something breaking.
  • 1.
  • This will get rid of any dirt that has accumulated on the surface.

Make careful to clean the edges and underside of the item well because here is where the vinyl’s edge will adhere.

Place the piece face down on a sheet of vinyl and cut out a rectangle with approximately 1/2′′-1′′ extra on both sides.

3) Place the vinyl face down on a clean table, adhesive side up, and carefully peel away the backing material.

Check to see that the grain is running in the proper direction and is square.


Even after the heat has been turned off, the vinyl will remain soft for a few seconds, allowing you to drag it into position with your fingers.

I was able to grip and shape the vinyl with both of my hands after that.

Wrap the vinyl around the rear of the item, pressing it into the underside of the piece.

Using the Heat Gunalong the edges of each aperture while pressing downward, close up the openings and seal them up.


The center of each flap should be heated and pulled to form around the inside borders of the flaps.


After the remainder of the trim has been done, it seems to be completely new and refurbished.

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When used in conjunction with Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer, your interior will appear to have just rolled off the production line.

Please do not hesitate to leave a comment if you have any suggestions for future posts or if you have a project that you would like to see described. – James R/EW & Co.

r/cars – DIY: How to wrap interior panels or trim

The majority of my car’s dash and upper interior panels are now being overhauled, so I decided to use one of the minor parts to put up a short how-to guide. This is something I’ve done many times in many different automobiles over the past five years, and every time it comes out a bit better than it did the previous time, though it’s still not quite ideal. Nothing about this requires rocket science; the only skills required are patience and meticulous attention to detail. You may use this technique to repair drooping headliners, replace ripped interior panels, or cover up unsightly and worn trim.

Using microsuede and CF type fabric, I’ve created this look, however you may use any fabric that you like.

Step 1: Get your s**t together.

  • Preparing a clean work environment and keeping a vacuum on hand to collect dust and other debris in the gaps between panels are also recommended. Good scissors, not that old kitchen pair you used to open your tuna fish can when the can opener failed last year, but good scissors nevertheless. If you don’t already have a pair of scissors that have only been used on cloth, spend the $15 and get a fresh new set. With a brand new blade, an exacto knife is used
  • Gloves made of rubber
  • I have both 3M 80 and Loctite 200 spray adhesives on hand. Because of the way the Loctite goes on clear and barely sprays, it does not allow for much repositioning. The 3M material slides down like spiderman splooge and can easily seep through the cloth, but it gives you extra working time because it dries faster. Take your poison of choice. I’ve been using Loctite on the smaller panels, but I’ll be using 3M for the actual headliner
  • I’ve been putting the 3M on the smaller panels. Rubber cement for the borders
  • A lint roller
  • And other supplies Cheap micro suede will fade rapidly in the sun, so I’m going to try treating it with this UV protectant spray that I got at Jo-Ann for $13
  • Fabric of your choosing I’m using “caviar” microsuede from Jo-Ann Fabrics, which costs $13 a yard. It takes around 3.5 yards of material to cover my headliner, A, B, and C pillars, parcel shelf, glovebox, center console, and kick panel. It really has some stretch to it, unlike some of the other materials I’ve used in the past, which is ideal for panels with a lot of curves.

Measure the panel and cut your fabric to nearly the same size as the panel, leaving enough of overlap in between. Then, using your lint roller, go over the reverse of the garment to remove any debris that has accumulated there. Wearing gloves and spraying your naked panel with adhesive in a completely distinct region are steps 3 and 4, respectively. The item is suspended from my back porch using a clothes hanger, which also serves as a handy handle for transporting it back inside after it has been hung.

  • 4:Return to your clean room and remove or replace your gloves after setting the panel down.
  • Step 5:Flip the piece over and remove the extra fabric, leaving a third to half-inch overlap.
  • 6: If you are spinning a web of misery between the bottle of glue and your panel, you will wind yourself on the lovely side of your panel in a hurry.
  • Keep your hands as clean as possible.
  • 8th step: You’ll end up with these cute tiny donkey ears on the corners of your hats.
  • 9:Consider the position of your switch openings.
  • The inside edges are wrapped with the same rubber cement techniques as the outside margins.

10th step: Flip it back over, give it a good scrubbing with the lint roller, and bask in your accomplishment.

for each and every one of your panels In my case, it was a shitload.

Recommendations in general: Please take your time.

The fact that the glue bled through will keep you gazing at it for years to come, and that one small area where the glue flowed through will eventually drive you nuts.

Obsessive-compulsive disorder Wash your hands, go through dozens of pairs of gloves, vacuum your workspace, switch out the paper, and so on and so forth.

Don’t be stingy with your money.

For example, 4 yards of fabric cost $13 apiece, excellent glue costs $10-12 each can, UV spray costs $13 per bottle, and decent scissors cost $15-30. It will still be a fraction of the cost of purchasing new panels or trim, so save money by doing it once and correctly the first time.

Car Interior Vinyl Wrap Service

Consider the possibility that you may completely transform the appearance of your car’s interior in a matter of hours, giving it a “brand new” appearance. Alternatively, you may be less concerned with the aesthetics of the product and instead wish to protect your interior from dirt, scratches, and other elements that might harm it over time. All of this is achievable owing to internal vinyl wrapping, which may be especially handy if you have young children or pets, but it can also be useful in other situations.

Car Interior Vinyl Wrap

Carbon fiber wraps are the most often seen interior wrapping material in our Chicago businesses. The addition of these items to your dashboard may provide a touch of style and sportiness while also protecting it from dirt, scratches, and ultraviolet radiation. However, you can also wrap other interior components such as the door handles, the gear shifter, the hand brake, and other similar items. Interior wrapping is a popular choice among new car owners who want to safeguard their dashboard and interior for many years to come, as well as owners of older vehicles who want to bring their interiors back to life after years of neglect.

The Benefits of Interior Wrapping

  • Ensure that the inside surfaces are protected from excessive usage, grime, and scratches
  • Ensure that the interior surfaces are protected from UV radiation and excessive sun exposure
  • Create a new, cozy, and invigorating ambiance in the inside of your vintage automobile to bring it back to life
  • Maintain the value of your vehicle in order to resell it for a higher price
  • It is less expensive than repainting or rebuilding the entire inside
  • There is a large selection of styles and colors to pick from
  • You can conceal flaws while driving
  • There is no need to cover the entire inside if you do not want to or cannot afford to do so. The door handles, the dashboard, the gear shifter, and other specific parts of your vehicle can be wrapped if you so desire
  • You can also wrap the entire vehicle.
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How Long Does Interior Vinyl Wrap Last?

A high-quality wrap that has been placed by a professional will endure for around 5 to 7 years. In our company, we utilize carbon fiber vinyl wraps because they are durable and can survive high temperatures as well as harsh wear conditions. They also contain a UV reflecting layer that keeps the colors from discoloring.

Can Car Vinyl Wrap Be Removed?

You may remove both the inside and exterior wraps of your vehicle, whether it’s because they’ve been worn out or because you just want a different color or style. To complete the removal operation in one piece, our professional will first heat the affected region with a heat gun before gently removing it in one piece. If you opt to do it yourself, be careful not to overheat the plastic wrap, since this might cause residue to form or harm the paint finish. Ideally, if the wrap was done correctly in the first place, it should be easy to remove with minimal harm to the vehicle’s original paint.

After the old wrap has been removed, we can quickly replace it with a new one that is tailored to your specifications.

Custom Interior Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap Chicago

No matter how old your interior appears to be, we can bring it up to date and make it appear like new again. Our team of pros is ready to assist you with all of your wrapping needs, including interior and exterior wrapping, as well as vehicle window tinting. In Chicago, you may find us at 3621 N Harlem Avenue and W Grand Avenue, or you can phone us at 773-455-0467 or 312-212-0493.


3621 N Harlem Ave, Chicago, IL 60634 Chicago, IL 60634


2720 W Grand Avenue, Chicago, IL 60612 (phone)


WEEK DAYS: 8:00 am – 6:00 pm
SATURDAY: 8:00 am – 3:00 pm
SUNDAY: Closed

DIY:3M CF interior trim wrap.

Before you begin anything, make sure you read this entire document from beginning to end. Reread it to make sure you haven’t missed anything important. The wrap material I chose was 3M 1080 Black, which has a matte finish. I’m not sure what makes it different from the 3M DI-NOC. A business colleague provided me with a sample of the 1080 to try out, and I intended to utilize the same exact product while completing the interior of the house. Remember that it is pressure sensitive (or at least that is what 3M claims), so use caution while applying pressure.

  • If you have never done any type of vinyl wrap before (and I’m guessing that’s why you’re reading this), I strongly advise you to practice on anything other than your car before moving on to something else.
  • Then I started working on my trim, starting with the portions that were the easiest to enhance before moving on to the more challenging ones.
  • What You’ll Need to Get Started 1.
  • It will take time.
  • a good fresh blade for a box cutter, second 3.
  • A hair dryer or a heat gun (optional).
  • A heat gun generates a tremendous amount of heat, and this is not the best location to learn how to use one if you are unfamiliar with them.

Proper illumination 7.

Don’t forget to read this!

The slightest particle of dirt or debris that comes into touch with the vinyl will be nearly hard to remove.

A pair of tweezers (optional).


I’m going to walk you through the process of wrapping the arm rest on your right side.

As a result, I needed to sand the surface a little to make it more smooth.

Filler or Bondo will be required if there are any deep gouges on your surface.

If you have used any type of dressing on your interior, you will not be able to clean it with ordinary household cleaners.

When cleaning, be certain that you are not just washing the exposed surface but also the back and sides of the appliance.

Place the component on top of the other pieces such that the flattest area makes the greatest contact with the surface.

Measure the amount of vinyl that will be used for one piece at a time (don’t underestimate this).

If you measure and cut both arm rests at the same time and discover after beginning the first arm rest that it is too small, you will be wasting your time and money by tossing them away.

WASH YOUR HANDS CAREFULLY Because of the grease on your hands, the glue will lose its effectiveness quickly.

When it is cold, cutting the vinyl will be less difficult.

Line up the trim piece in the same manner as you would when you were cutting the material for your component.

Start by concentrating on the flattest region of the component.

The vinyl should be worked from one end to the other and from the center to the periphery.

Using your fingers, gently move the vinyl toward the handle region while simply working it into the center to merely secure it throughout its whole.

I don’t want to seem like a broken record, so please keep this in mind at all times.

You’ve reached the phase where you need to actually wrap the component.

Work the heated material to the edges, but do not wrap it completely around the edges just yet.

Take your time and carefully work on, or perhaps rewrite, those trouble locations.

It will be necessary to slice relief cuts through the vinyl in areas where there are curves or bends in order to avoid overstretching and make such curves and bends manageable, as described above.

For the sake of illustration, let’s use a half circle.

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To illustrate, the spokes of the wheel would depict the cuts that would be required in order to achieve the greatest outcomes from relief cuts.

You should now have enough excess to cover the whole area, as well as plenty of excess around the edges.

Make a flip of the part so you can see the reverse side, which has all of the clips and structural tabs.

Once the cuts have been made, begin at one point and work your way around the cloth to the other side.

After everything has been fastened along the backside, thoroughly check all of the nooks and crannies to see if any touchups are required. You have completed your task. The only thing left to do is replace the trim pieces into your vehicle again.

Porsche 928 How to Wrap Interior Trim

Vinyl wraps have been available for some years, providing drivers with the opportunity to achieve high-end aesthetics at a low-end budget. Scuffs, scratches, and rips that can occur as a result of normal use are prevented by using the wrap itself as a protector for the items it contains. This article teaches how to vinyl-wrap the interior elements of your car’s interior. The Porsche 928 is the subject of this article (1979-1995). The interior design of the Porsche 928 seems to have been created decades before its time.

Instead of unique, one-of-a-kind pieces, vinyl wrapping may be used to spice up the cabin trim at a lower cost than custom pieces.

However, although wrapping vinyl is a time-consuming operation, doing it yourself may save you hundreds of dollars.

Materials Needed

  • Vinyl wrap, a knife, spray glue, a screwdriver, a ruler, and cleaning tools are all required.

Step 1 – Remove the trim piece

  • Take a screwdriver and begin removing the mounting hardware for the trim pieces from the trim pieces. Ensure that you remove all of the plastic inserts and panels from the trim piece with care. After you’ve removed the trim piece, use a rag and cleanser to clean the surface of the piece. Before wrapping each component, make sure it has been well cleaned.

Figure 1. This is how a trim piece that has been removed should appear.

Step 2 – Lay out the vinyl fabric

  • Take the vinyl roll and lay it down on a level surface to see how it looks. Measure the amount of material required to completely cover the trim piece with a straight edge. Take a pair of scissors and cut the vinyl

Figure 2: Measure and cut out the vinyl for the project.

Step 3 – Apply glue to the trim piece

  • Apply a maximum of two layers of 3M or other high-quality adhesive to the surface.

Figure 3: Adhere the trim piece to the surface of the glue.

Step 4 – Lay the vinyl on the trim piece

  • Lay the vinyl onto the trim piece with care, yet firmly pressing it down. As you lay the vinyl down, use a straightedge to level it out as you go. Double-check that there are no air bubbles or creases. Take your time with this step
  • It is important.

Fig. 4: Position the vinyl on the trim piece.

Step 5 – Cut out the inner holes of the trim piece (optional)

If this step does not apply to your current item, you can move on to Step 6 without further delay.

  • For example, if you’re covering something with holes, use a knife to cut away enough material so that the vinyl can slip in between each fissure. Allow enough vinyl to be pulled and adhered to the rear of the trim piece to allow for easy removal.

Step 6 – Finish wrapping the trim

  • Continue to wrap the vinyl around the trim piece, cementing it in place as you go. Reinstall the trim piece into the cabin and take a moment to enjoy your accomplishment

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Vinyl wrapping interior trim

So, after taking a few deep breaths, I went back to the drawing board and did some more research, watched some more videos, and decided to give it another shot. The findings show a significant improvement over the previous attempt. I was doing a number of things incorrectly, the most significant of which was slitting the corners. Several instructions recommended it, however it just results in a complete disaster. In addition, I experimented with something I couldn’t find in any instructions. I preheated my oven to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, then carefully laid the vinyl on the component, pressing only a bit around the areas that would form holes in the vinyl.

After that, I baked it in the oven, which softened the vinyl and let it to shrink into the details.

In order to avoid damaging the vinyl while it was still warm, I wrapped my hands over it, stretching it over all the corners.

There are still a few defects at this point, but I heard somewhere that if you let it sit for a few days before heating it up again and working it, the results will be far better.

So I’m going to give it a go.

Even though I can make them to have razor-sharp clarity, the vinyl keeps popping up.

First and foremost, it had scratches and gouges from previous efforts to remove the lenses in order to change the bulbs, which was typical of most dome lights I’d seen.

After that, I used a sharp scalpel to clip away any bits that were sticking out.

This was done to cover up the imperfections and also to make the brushed aluminum vinyl more nearly resemble the brushed aluminum vinyl if any of them were to show through.

After it has been let to set for a few days, all of the superfluous bits will be cut away.

I have no plans to redo it, but after I finished it, I noticed that the grain would have looked much better if it had gone across the short side instead of the long side.

That, as well as a couple of really small ball-end allen wrenches.

I didn’t have access to a sculpting stylus at the time. You can see where I removed the light holders and then adjusted the pieces with a dremel tool in the picture. This was done in order to accommodate the unique brackets I designed for the neopixel lights.

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