How To Trim Windows Interior

How to Install Window Trim

When it comes to trimming windows, most trim carpenters don’t even use a measuring tape. It’s all done by hand, with a sharp pencil, a miter saw, and an 18-gauge nailer, and everything is done by eye. This is how they go about it.

Tools Required

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind when installing window casings in order to avoid a few trimming headaches:

  • Whenever possible, cut with the thick side of the trim against the miter saw fence to save time. If you do it this way, you will be less likely to pull out the narrow tapered edge. Cutting all the way up to the pencil mark nearly always results in pieces that are excessively lengthy, so use the blade to erase the pencil line. You’ll almost certainly have to cut off even more hair. You may sneak up on cuts by beginning long and sinking the saw blade into the wood as you make your way towards the cutoff point
  • First and foremost, trim out the largest windows. Using miscuts for the smaller windows will allow you to avoid running out of material. Attaching 3/4-inch thick trim requires 15-gauge 2-1/2-in. nails for the framing and 18-gauge 2-in. brads for nailing to the jamb when working with 3/4-inch thick trim. Avoid nailing closer than 2 inches from the ends of the board to avoid splitting.

Project step-by-step (11)

When adding window molding, begin at the top of the window. Make a 45-degree angle on one end of the trim and position it so that the short end of the angle overhangs halfway, or 3/8 in., onto the jamb on the other end. Then, flush with the inside of the jamb, mark the other end of the tape. You’ll have a 3/16-inch reveal as a result of this. Step No. 2

Get the Spacing Right

In order to keep the trim 3/16 inch away from the jamb at both ends and along the base of the window casing, place it on top of the window casing. 1 inch brads spaced every 6 inches or so should be used to secure the trim to the jamb. 2 inch brads are used to fasten the thick section of the trim to the frame.

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Complete your do-it-yourself tasks like an expert! Become a subscriber to our newsletter! Do It Right the First Time, and Do It Yourself! Step number three.

Check the Fit, then Cut to Length

One end of the trim board should have a 45-degree miter cut into it. Make any necessary adjustments to the miter for a precise fit. Once this is done, scribe the cut length 3/16 in. past where the jamb meets the jamb frame. As you did with the top piece, nail the trim to the jamb first and then to the window casing frame, following the same procedure. Step number four.

Glue and Pin for a Solid Miter

With 1-inch brads, fasten the corners together and glue and pin the miter together from both directions. Remove the glue squeeze-out as soon as possible using a moist towel. Step number five.

Trim the Other Side

Repeat all of the procedures on the other side of the window, fitting the top miter first, and then marking and cutting the bottom miter to complete the installation. Nail the window casing trim into place with a finishing nail. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Fit the First Bottom Miter

Begin work on the bottom portion. Make a miter cut on one end of a piece of window casing trim that is too lengthy. Check the fit by overlapping the other end. Make any necessary adjustments to the miter to ensure a flawless fit. Step 7 – Organize your time and resources.

Fit the Opposite Miter

Make a test miter on the opposite end to ensure that it fits properly. Make any required adjustments to the miter until you’re pleased with the junction. In this eighth step, you will learn how to use a comma to separate the words “and” and “and not.”

Scribe for Length

Make a mark on the final cut. While the saw is still set for the last miter, flip the trim over and scribe the length for the end that contains the previous miter with a pencil. Transfer the mark to the front side of the fabric and cut it out. 9th step:

Dealing with Problem Drywall: Projects More than 1/8 in.

If the drywall protrudes more than 1/8 inch from the wall, pound the drywall in with a chisel.

Just make sure that the crushed area will be covered by trim before proceeding. You will not have miters that are 45 degrees in this circumstance. It may be necessary to go as low as 44 degrees in order to produce a tight miter cut. Step number ten.

Dealing with Problem Drywall: Projects Less than 1/8 in.

If the drywall extends beyond the jamb by 1/8 In. or less and is near to the window jamb, just chamfer the edge with a utility knife to make it flush with the jamb. Holding a piece of trim against the drywall and jamb will allow you to determine whether or not you have removed enough drywall. It may need to be carved out more if it is rocking and not sitting flat against both surfaces. Step 11: Organize your information.

Dealing with Problem Drywall: Drywall Too Low

If the drywall is recessed behind the jamb, hold off on nailing the trim to the frame for a short period of time. Just attach it to the jamb and pin the mitered corners together to complete the look. After the window has been trimmed, slip shims behind each nail site to hold the trim in place while the nails are being driven in. Then cut the shims away. Before painting, caulk along the perimeter of the window casing trim to prevent gaps from forming. Also, learn how to trim a door by watching this video.

How to Trim an Interior Window

  1. Remove any existing casing, stool, or apron molding that may have been installed
  2. Make a piece of stool molding to fit between the windows by cutting it using a table saw and miter saw on the table. Keep the ends as long as possible
  3. Holding the extension jamb and casing in place with a 1″ reveal between them will allow you to determine the finished length of the stool. Afterwards, measure the distance between the face of the casing and the face of the stool, and shift that measurement from one side of the casing to another. The edges of the stool should be smoothed using a block plane and sandpaper. Using shims, square up the stool in relation to the window
  4. Set the stool in place with the help of a nail gun. Cut the extension jamb pieces to the proper length once they have been ripped to the desired width. Make a 45-degree miter cut into the casing to make it the proper length. Identify the location of the casing by marking it 14 inches from the edge of the extension jamb
  5. Using screws, wood glue, and nails, assemble the extension jambs and window casings as a single unit on a workbench or sawhorses
  6. Dry-fit the trim piece into the window aperture before installing it. It may be necessary to add shims or to reduce the thickness of the plaster a little. In any joints surrounding the window and around the extension jambs, use slightly expanding foam to keep the area warm. Fix the trim component in place using nails. Screw the window stool to the window casing to keep it in place. Ensure that the apron is the proper length, which is the space between the exterior of the casing and the outside of the casing
  7. Fix the apron in place with glue and nails.

Resources

In addition to 312″ Colonial casings, Tom made use of off-the-shelf timber for the remaining elements. All of the wood and equipment required may be obtained from a local home improvement store. Cleveland Lumber Co. offered a significant amount of support with this project.

Tools

Tom Silva considers finish carpentry to be the most enjoyable element of his profession, whether he is repairing ancient buildings or creating new ones that are meant to seem old. Tom demonstrates how to install window trim that includes reeded side and head casings, simple corner blocks, a sturdy stool, and a delicate apron, all of which were reproduced from the original trim. People frequently install casings that are either too small or of a different style than the original, but Tom believes that maintaining the original character of the home increases the feel and value of the property.

As a consequence, there are no gaps between the wall and the casing, and the assembly is completely seamless.

Step 1

When it comes to installing window casing in older homes, Tom frequently has to deal with walls that dip and bulge, resulting in gaps between the trim and the wall. He can’t overlook these flaws, but he doesn’t want to cover them up with caulk either. Tom, on the other hand, utilizes wood filler strips. According to him, “I prefer to leave a lovely clean edge for the painter.” His method of construction begins with a scrap piece of casing that has been ripped to a width of 1 inch and a length as long as the casing is high.

This is then transferred to the face of the scrap wood by the carpenter (as shown in “Fill in the Gap” 2).

After using a jigsaw to cut along that line, he applies carpenter’s glue to the contoured scrap piece and slides it into the gap, ensuring that the wall and trim are properly aligned with one another (as shown in “Fill in the Gap” 4).

“With a simple sanding and a coat of paint, the seam is completely gone,” Tom explains.

Step 2

David Carmack captured this image. Holding a straightedge across the window, make sure that each jamb is flat with the surrounding wall is important. If they protrude from the wall, plane them flush with the surface. The maximum gap between a straightedge and each jamb should be measured if the jambs are too short for the wall to support them. Jamb extensions should then be ripped from 1x stock, ensuring that they are as broad as necessary and 14inch thinner than the jamb thickness. Driving 1 12 inch 18-gauge pneumatic nails (or 4d finish nails) every 8 to 10 inches while holding the strip against the jamb will ensure that the strip stays in place.

Set a compass’s legs apart by 14 inches and set the tip of the compass on one of the jamb’s bottom inner corners.

Tips: To provide a tight fit between the casing and jamb, plane a tiny bevel into the jamb’s wall-side edge to ensure a snug fit.

Step 3

A side casing should be placed against the wall so that it is aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb. Make a mark on the wall at the outer edge of the casing. Repeat the same with the other jamb. The length of the stool should be determined by measuring between the markers and adding 2 inches. Laying the stool face down on the sill, with its back edge against the sill trim, will provide the best results. Make a mark where the top of the trim meets the end of the stool. Slide the end of the upside-down stool against the jamb, keeping the rear corner of the stool against the sill trim as a guide.

A square should be drawn to connect the two markers and an X should be drawn in between the lines; this will be the waste that will be cut away to produce the rabbet.

Step 4

Place the stool across the hole, 1 inch from each end, and mark the inside border of the stool 1 inch from each end. Mark the spot where the edge of the stool meets the inner edge of the jambs. Placing a square at those locations and drawing “jamb lines” over the top of the stool is a good idea. Create the required profile by routing it into the edge and ends of the stool. The jamb lines should be aligned with the inner margins of the jambs. Set the compass to the distance between the rear edge of the stool and the trim around the sill.

Using a jigsaw, cut a notch into either end of the stool, following the lines drawn by the scribe.

To fine-tune the stool, use a jigsaw, chisel, or sandpaper to test fit it first. Apply a small amount of adhesive on the window sill. Facenail the stool to the sill with four 18-gauge nails to keep it from moving (or 4d finish nails).

Step 5

A piece of casing should be cut into a square end, which should be resting on the stool. Make a mark where the inner edge of the jamb meets the reveal line of the head jamb. Make a square cut at the point where the arrow points. Repeat the process on the other side. To bond the casing, place a bead of glue where it overhang the side jamb and on the end that will be sitting on the stool; align the edge of the casing with the reveal line. Fix the casing to the jamb with 4d finish nails and to the wall with 8d finish nails, using a facenailing technique.

Carry out the same procedure on the other side.

Drill pilot holes if you’re going to be hand nailing.

Step 6

Hold a length of casing over the top of the window and make a mark at the point where it meets the inner edge of each side casing on either side of the window. Make square crosscuts at those locations using a miter saw. Glue the head casing to the head jamb, ensuring sure that the bottom edge of the casing lines up with the reveal line.

Step 7

Corner blocks should be fitted at both corners to ensure there are no gaps. Trim the edges of the block using a plane if necessary to get a snug fit. a plane Apply a tiny bead of glue to the sides of the block where the side casing and the head casing will be joined. After that, apply glue on the back of the block and secure it in position. In the event that you are utilizing a pneumatic nailer, drive 18-gauge nails into each corner. Hand nailing requires drilling pilot holes first and then driving in 8d finish nails.

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Step 8

Place a length of apron stock on the stool so that it is facing down. Make a mark on the stock where it touches the outer edge of each side case. Make square cuts with a miter saw where the markings have been made. Hold the end of a leftover apron piece perpendicular to the face of the piece you just cut to dress up the ends of an apron. Orient the scrap’s profile so that it is flush with the end of the apron and make the edges flush with it. Trace the outline of the scrap’s profile onto the apron’s surface.

Using a jigsaw or coping saw, cut along the pencil lines and sand the edges clean.

Step 9

Remove all of the nail heads with a nail set and a hammer, and then fill the holes with wood putty to finish the project. Allow the putty to cure for at least one night. Lightly hand-sand the putty until it is flat with the surrounding wood, using 120-grit sandpaper as a guide.

Then lightly sand the casings, corner blocks, stool, and apron to bring them back to life. Remove all of the sanding dust with a tack rag before applying a layer of stain and varnish, or primer and paint, to the surface.

8 Easy Steps to Install Window Trim & Window Casing

It will be beneficial to install an internal window trim once a window has been replaced. The rationale for this is that it improves the overall appearance of the window while simultaneously filling all gaps. Additionally, it enhances the aesthetics of the wall, your room, or the building façade itself. A trim is more of a decorative element. If you wish to put any uncertainties to rest, compare the work to the construction of a picture frame. However, repairing this item may appear to be a difficult task, especially when dealing with diverse interior window trim types.

If you follow these procedures, you should be able to get your sliding window repaired in no time.

Step on How to Trim Out a Window

The installation of window casings, particularly in older structures, may result in wall deterioration. Also observe the spacing between the jamb and the trim around the window. As an alternative to caulking the cracks, wood filler strips can be used to close them up. Begin by tearing a piece of casing that is approximately an inch wide and lengthwise. Then, using a compass, find the most noticeable wall-to-interior trim and measure its distance. Transferring that measurement to the surface of the scrap wood itself is the next step.

Maintain the distance between the largest hole on the compass and the sign on the piece of material.

To make the junction blend in, a light coat of paint and little sanding are applied.

Step 2: Prepare the Window Jamb

Ensure that the straight border of the window remains in place across the window. You should also check to see if the jambs are flush with the wall. If you come across anybody who appears to be out of position (particularly before installing window jambs), bring them up to the same level as the wall. Get some 1x stock and a collection of jamb extensions in the width that you choose. Make sure they have a profile that is approximately 1/4 inch thicker than the thickness of the window jamb. Afterwards, align the strip against the window’s vertical side and secure it with 4d finish nails every 8 to 10 inches, being sure to level any surplus material.

To do this, open a pair of compasses and aim for a spot that is 1/4 inch broad.

Making a reveal line at the ends of the remaining jambs using the inner section of the frame as a reference point, cut the remaining jambs.

Step 3: Cut and Make a Rebate in the Stool

Head over to the wall and secure the side casing to it, making sure it remains in alignment with the reveal line on the side jamb of the door. Make some markings on the wall adjacent to the housing’s outer edge to indicate where it is located. Then switch to the other frame (the one that is directly opposite the current frame) and repeat the process there as well. Take note of the distance between the two markers. When you have the measurement, add two inches to it and then cut the stool to the appropriate length.

Allow the front of the stool to touch the window sill.

Now you’re ready to go.

Drawing a vertical mark at the location where your stool’s end and frame come together is the next step in the process of how to install sentinel.

This region represents the surplus material that will need to be trimmed, which is especially important because you will be making the rabbet. Create two different rip cuts using a table saw in order to do this.

Step 4: Mark and Set Up the Stool

Measure 1 inch from either end of the stool’s inner edge and make a mark on the stool’s inner edge while positioning it at the mouth. It is recommended that you add a notch at the place where the corner of this item meets the interior of the jamb. Placing a square on top of these markings will allow you to create “jamb lines” on the stool’s surface. Keep in mind to align the jamb lines with the inside margins of the door. Then, lay one end of the compass on the back of the stool, while the other end should remain at the sill trim of the stool.

Using the freshly drawn lines as a guide, cut a notch into the edge of each of the stool’s legs with a jigsaw to finish the project.

Apply a little quantity of adhesive on the sill and secure it to the stool with a nail.

Step 5: Attach the Side Casing

Make a square end cut in the casing and set it on the stool to finish it up. Make careful to note the point on the head jamb where the inside end meets the reveal line, so that you can find it later. Cut out a square at this location, and then repeat the operation on the other side. Make two small indentations with the adhesive on the casing that protrudes from the side jamb and the section of the casing that sits on the stool. At this point, make sure the edge is aligned with the reveal line.

  1. After completing this procedure, sweep up any extra glue with a clean cloth.
  2. Make use of two 18-gauge nails and drive them into the bottom of each horn starting at one of the casing’s outside edges.
  3. If you don’t have the nails specified above, the ones labeled 6d will function quite well in their place.
  4. Get a miter saw and make square crosscuts on the notches to finish them up.

Step 6: Add Corner Blocks

In both corners, place the blocks and inspect them for any cracks or holes. If the items appear to be out of alignment, you can achieve a perfect match by leveling their edges. Using a little amount of glue, attach the head casing block and jamb to the head casing block.

Apply a little amount of glue to the bottom of the block and hold it in place for a few seconds. After that, insert 18 gauge nails into the wood with a pneumatic nailer. If you prefer to use a hammer, drill pilot holes first before inserting 8d finish nails into the holes.

Step 7: Prepare the Aprons

Hold a small amount of apron stock when the front end is down. It is necessary to point out the regions on this stock that will be exposed to the exterior of the side casings. Then, using a miter saw, make square cuts through the wood at these locations. Smooth the ends of the apron by grabbing the scrap piece that is at a right angle to the recently cut edge and rubbing it together. Turn the scrap profile to the side of the apron while keeping it flush with the apron surface. Now, using a pencil, trace the scrap profile onto the apron’s surface to complete the project.

Afterward, cut out the trace and smooth off any rough edges that may have occurred throughout the process.

Finally, drive the top edge of the stool all the way down to the bottom of the stool.

Step 8: Complete the Project

You have now completed the final stage in the process of installing window trim. You will need a set of nails and a hammer at this stage in order to deal with the nail heads. Placing putty over the cracks and allowing it to dry overnight is recommended. By smoothing off the sticky substance with sandpaper, you may gently bring it into harmony with the wood. Use the paper to plane the other portions of the window panes’ surround, such as the casing, apron, stool, and corner blocks, before continuing with the next step.

After that, add some primer and paint or a stain and varnish combination to finish it off.

Wrap Up

Following the installation of your new window, you should understand how to install window trim. Despite the fact that this article focuses mostly on how to trim around windows in outside areas, it may also serve as a reference for how to trim a window on the inside.

  • First, prepare the casing by installing window jambs and caulking along the edges. Then you build a stool, trace around the object, and put it in place. Make sure to lay up the side casings and some corner blocks with an apron before you begin. You will need to know more about how to trim a window sill in order to complete this job. You only need to make sure the components are the appropriate size and that they fit before gluing and nailing them together

I hope you found this information interesting. Any ideas or comments are welcome, and you can leave them in the comment box below.

Easy DIY Window Casings (No Miter Cuts!)

Because of the dreaded miter cuts, many individuals despise the process of installing window and door casings. So, I’ve been trimming out my windows and doors in a style that I believe is extremely attractive (far more so than just conventional, plain casings), and guess what? It’s working! There are no miter cuts required for these simple DIY window casings! This form of window casing is quite simple to install for the do-it-yourselfer, yet it has a very substantial and bespoke appearance. Aren’t those narrow pieces with mitered upper corners so much prettier than the regular narrow pieces with mitered upper corners?

So allow me to demonstrate how I fitted this really simple DIY window enclosure.

It’s possible that you already have jambs put in your windows, and you only want to strengthen up the trim and modify the design.

In that case, you may skip ahead a few steps and proceed to step 3. This is what my computer screen looked like before I started working. So allow me to demonstrate how to get from a fully untrimmed window to a completed window with a gorgeous casing in only a few steps.

How to install DIY window casings (window trim)

The first thing you’ll want to do if you’re starting with newly installed windows, as I am, is make sure that the drywall is cut level with the frame surrounding the window, and that there isn’t any excess insulation that will get in the way of the installation. Using a utility knife or a serrated kitchen knife to cut away any extra insulation, such as I had, or any drywall that wasn’t cut flush with the window framing, you can finish the job in no time!

Step 2 – Cut and install the window sill (stool).

The sill for the window will be the first item to be put in place (technically called the stool). The distance between the window frame and the front border of the drywall should be measured to estimate the quantity of timber you’ll need for this project. Approximately 2.5 inches was the measurement for my window. In addition to that measurement, I added 1.5 inches, which gave me a total window sill width of 4 inches. As a result, I would need to utilize a 1′′ x 6′′ piece of timber for my window sill, which would be a little more difficult.

  1. The size of my window was 48 7/8 inches in height and width.
  2. 57 3/8 inches was the measurement I obtained, which I utilized to cut the 1′′ x 6′′ timber that would be used for the window sill.
  3. A notch had to be cut out of either end of the window sill portion that extends on the wall past where I had made a crude window opening before I could install it.
  4. I marked the 2.5-inch measurement that I had taken, as well as the 4.25-inch measurement for the extra width that I had added to the window sill board on either end, with a speed square.
  5. I cut the notch out of either end using a jigsaw, which was quite easy to do.
  6. And I want to demonstrate this to you because, while I am a perfectionist, I am not without flaws.
  7. A large portion of the gap will be concealed by the side casing piece, and the portion of the gap that remains visible can be sealed with caulk prior to painting.
  8. Moreover, I’m OK with it.
  9. The other end turned out a little better, but I’ll still need to apply caulk to close a gap here and there.
  10. It wasn’t level (which was not surprising), so I had to shim one end to make it level.
  11. A shim can be made out of any leftover piece of wood that has been chopped or torn.

To shim the sill, I actually used bits of a paint stir stick that I had lying around. As soon as I saw the paint stick shims were working, I nailed the sill in place. When it came to installing all of these parts, I utilized 16-gauge 1.5-inch nails.

Step 3 – Cut and install the top jamb.

After that, I measured, cut, and installed the upper jamb of the door. In contrast to the sill, the margins of the top and side jambs must be flush with the face of the drywall to be considered properly installed. This piece also needed to be shimmed to make it level, and then I fastened it into place using wood screws.

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Step 4 – Cut and install the side jambs.

I then proceeded to install the two side jambs. These must be torn to the same width as the top jamb in order for the edges of the drywall to be level with the surface of the wall. I was fortunate in that my slices were 2.5 inches broad, which happens to be the precise width of a 1′′ x 3′′ piece of wood. Before nailing the side jambs into place, I checked that they were plumb with a bubble level to make sure they were straight. Fortunately, both of mine need shimming. As a side note, the other two windows in this room occurred to be the ones that were the easiest to trim in terms of difficulty.

It’s impossible to believe that this window is level since it’s so out of the ordinary, unlike anything I’ve ever seen on a recently installed window.

Step 5 – Cut and install the side casings.

The two side casings may be fitted after all of the jambs have been built and are square, level, and plumb. I make use of 1′′ x 4′′ timber for this project. For this piece, I measured the distance from the window sill to the bottom of the top jamb, then added 1/4 inch to that measurement to account for the length of the side casings on either side of the window. Always measure each side independently, and don’t make the assumption that they’ll be precisely the same size as one another. It is not my practice to align the inner edge of the side casing with the face of the side jamb while I am installing the casings.

I also make certain that I nail at least three nails through the side casings and into the edge of the side jambs while installing these to ensure that the two parts are attached to one another.

Remember to constantly check your work using a level before joining the components.

Step 6 – Build and attach the top decorative header casing.

I take a measurement from the outside of the left side casing to the outside of the right side casing in order to make the top header piece of the casing. Then I take that measurement and cut a piece of 1′′ x 6′′ timber to the precise length I need it for. After that, I add one inch to that measurement and cut two pieces of 1′′ x 2′′ timber to the new, longer dimension. The top header is made up of these three components. I put these three pieces together using the same nails and wood glue as before, such that the 1′′ x 6′′ piece is sandwiched between the two 1′′ x 2′′ ones.

I nail the pieces together through the face of the 1′′ x 2′′ and into the edge of the 1′′ x 6′′, starting at the top of the 1′′ x 2′′.

Upon completion, that large header piece of casing is placed directly on top of the side casing pieces, and I nail it to the wall, making sure that the ends of the 1′′ x 6′′ line up with the outside edges of the side casing pieces, resulting in the ends of the 1′′ x 2′′ extending 1/2-inch beyond the outside edge of the side casing.

Step 7 – Cut and attach the apron.

Finally, I construct the apron from a piece of 1′′ x 4′′ timber. It’s the same measurement as for the top header (1′′ x 6′′), only this time I measure at the bottom immediately above the window sill, rather than measuring from one side casing to the other side casing (i.e., from one side casing to another side casing). Never presume that the top measurement will be identical to the bottom measurement, as has been done in previous cases. Even if you make every effort to ensure that everything is absolutely square, level, and plumb, measurements might be slightly wrong.

  • Using a 1′′ x 4′′ piece of timber, I cut a 1′′ x 4′′ apron to fit over the window sill, measuring from the outside edge of the left casing to the outside edge of the right casing.
  • And with that, the installation process is completed.
  • So, once again, here is what my window looked like before it was chopped out.
  • The fact that I have personally trimmed out every single door and window in my house makes me grateful that I chose this particular kind of trim for my doors and windows.
  • It appears to be deceptively easy.

Helpful sources and products:

  • For those who are searching for a really nice, trustworthy table saw but don’t have a lot of space to keep it, I strongly recommend the Dewalt 10-inch Compact Job Site Table Saw, which I now own. However, it is light enough to be portable while still being hefty enough to be sturdy. Furthermore, the guide fence allows you to rip widths of up to 24.5 inches, which is rather impressive for such a little and lightweight table saw. Nail gun and compressor– If you want a tiny, portable air compressor as well as nail guns, I recommend the Porter-Cable 3-Tool Set, which I now own. Combothat is equipped with a 6-gallon pancake air compressor, a 16-gauge nail gun, an 18-gauge nail gun, and a staple gun, among other things. While the 16-gauge nail gun is my most frequently utilized of those equipment, I do make use of the others as well. The 18-gauge nail gun is ideal for attaching trim that is smaller in size. In addition to some upholstery jobs (simple wrap-and-staple operations, such as upholstered headboards or dining chairs), the staple gun may be used for a variety of other tasks, such as fastening house wrap or fixing barriers under hardwood floors. Despite the fact that I use the staple gun the least, it is still quite convenient to have on hand.

This post includes affiliate links, which you should be aware of. Addicted 2 Decorating is a place where I document my DIY and decorating adventures as I renovate and decorate the 1948 fixer upper that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013 and are now restoring. Because Matt has Multiple Sclerosis and is unable to perform manual labor, I am responsible for the majority of the housework. You may find out more about me by visiting this page. I hope you will come along with me on my DIY and decorating adventure!

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DIY Window Trim – The Easy Way Without Miter Cuts

We’ve been moving at a breakneck pace recently, with the window trim being the most recent addition. As we’ve gotten closer to the finish line on Olivia’s bedroom renovation, we’ve been scheduling our work around family vacations, reunions, and day trips over the summer months. It’s physically and mentally taxing, but in a good way! However, while this isn’t one of those wonderfully creative DIY projects, this small project is by far one of my faves for injecting some life into a space. Because we’ve previously completed comparable trim in our master bathroom, I’m intrigued to the concept of using chunky window molding throughout the remainder of our house.

Inside window trim may be found in many different variations on the internet, but this is a fairly straightforward approach to creating interior window trim.

Want more ideas to add character to your home?

  • The following are eight DIY wall molding projects that will give your home a unique character: How to Easily Boost the Look of Crown Molding and Baseboards
  • The Most Appropriate Paint Colors for Gray Trim

Olivia’s bedroom window, may we say, lacked lustre. Blah. Boooooriiiiiing. After all, what good is a spectacular chandelier in a bedroom if there isn’t also some lovely window trim to match it? It’s the equivalent of wearing stilettos with a pair of jogging shorts. Joan Rivers, may her spirit rest in peace, would never have forgiven us. This trim is really simple and does not necessitate the use of any fancy schmancy miter cuts. If you know how to cut in a straight line, you can complete this task.

Following is a step-by-step guide on how to trim a window.

DIY Window Trim – The Easy Way Without Miter Cuts

  • 12 (the length will vary depending on the size of your window)
  • 21x4s
  • 16
  • Brad nails
  • Wood screws
  • 21x4s
  • A hammer is a tool that is used to pound something into submission (If you want to get the job done way faster, thiscordless nailerrocks.)
  • Caulk for trimming
  • Wood filler (for wood knots and nail holes)
  • Trim caulk Primer (always prepare raw wood before painting it)
  • Paintbrushes It was just enough paint (I used a sample quantity of Valspar Du Jour, and it was plenty). Jigsaw (you may use whatever sort of saw you like)
  • Setter of nails
  • Sandpaper with a fine grit

The Steps

Here’s how everything will go down. This one is definitely simpler to understand if you have a visual.

Make the Window Sill

1. We started with the window sill first and worked our way up. Using a 16-inch square, cut it to the width of the window plus 10 inches, leaving an excess of 5 inches on both sides. Once we had the width of our 16 cut determined, we placed it against the bottom of the window to indicate where we needed to cut away the corners of the window to fit into the window base. 3. Once everything was in place and looked fine, we attached everything using brad nails.

Add Window Trim Sides

4. To cut the length of the sides of the trim, we placed our 1x4s on either side of the window and marked where we needed to cut them. (In our house, measuring is overrated when it comes to some jobs. If we can get away with lining up wood pieces, marking them, and then cutting them, we certainly will do so. It’s less time-consuming and equally accurate as taking the extra step of using a measuring tape.)

Assemble the Header

5. Once the sides of the trim were in place, Robert began working on the header by cutting the remainder of the 16 to the same length as the window sill, as seen in the picture. He divided the 12 into two parts by cutting them to the same length as the 16. The use of wood screws to hold the 1x2s to the top and bottom of the 1×6 was not captured in the photographs, but you can get a fair understanding of what he was doing from the photographs. Then there are the times when I’m just awed by his insane talents and wonder how I ever got so lucky to marry such a skilled guy that I completely forget to pick up my camera.oops.) Seventh, he used brad nails to connect a header to the top of the window, this time making sure to drive the nails into studs in the wall.

Add the Apron

8. He also tucked a length of 14 beneath the window sill for good measure (called the apron). 9. Fill up any gaps and wood knots with caulk. From this vantage point, you can get a clearer understanding of how the 1x2s are related to the 1×6. Take a look at the not so attractive gap between the wood and the wall. Caulk is your greatest buddy in every situation. So, just to let you know, I took a picture of myself with my caulk gun in a really sultry Charlie’s Angels posture, and for some reason, the picture disappeared from my memory card.

Okay, you got me this time. As it turns out, I’m not very good at those oh-so-sexy Charlie’s Angels positions that everyone loves. Mr. Bean has a more uneasy expression on his face. It’s a good thing my caulking is more impressive than my modeling.

Set Nails, Wood Fill, Sand, and Caulk

In order to make sure that none of the brad nails were poking out, I went over them with a nail setter one more time. 11. I filled in the nail holes with some wood filler, allowed it to dry, and then sanded it down.

Prime and Paint

12. Apply one coat of primer to the raw wood to ensure that the paint is applied evenly and that the wood knots do not bleed through. 13. Apply two or three coats of paint in the color of your choosing. We used Valspar Du Jour as our paint color. Olivia’s room suddenly appeared to be much larger after two coats of white paint was applied! I’m not making this up. And now we have a group that Joan Rivers would be proud of. I also have curtain panels ready to hang, so this window will appear to be far larger than the last one, which was a bore to look at.

  • Also evidence that caulk and wood filler have the ability to cover up a multitude of sins.
  • Because, after all, this is a ballerina’s room.
  • Is it possible for you to complete a DIY window casing project?
  • Update: Check out the entire unveiling of the bedroom renovation here!

Frequently Asked Questions

In no way, shape, or form. Making your window and door trim, baseboards, and molding the same color as your walls might be a smart idea, but it is not always necessary.

Are window casings worth it?

Window casings are frequently recommended by interior designers because they may help a space seem more completed, more high-end, and more aesthetically pleasant overall.

  • The following are eight DIY wall molding projects that will give your home a unique character: The following are two simple steps to upgrade a basic window: How to Easily Boost the Look of Crown Molding and Baseboards
  • The Most Appropriate Paint Colors for Gray Trim Picture frame molding made at home
  • The cheapest and most straightforward DIY board and batten project (Part One)
See also:  How To Install Interior Pvc Trim

Interior window trim ideas

When changing windows, you are not always required to install new window trim; in certain cases, you may want to keep your current window casings in place. But if your present casings are in bad condition or don’t correspond to your current aesthetic preferences, you may want to consider changing them as part of your overall replacement process. Another thing to consider is that when replacing existing windows, the paint line from the old trim may not be perfectly aligned with the new window line.

In addition, the style of window you have might have an impact on the sort of trim you want to put on it, which is the final key piece of information to consider.

Window casing ideas

Choose inside window trim or casings from a wide variety of styles and colors when it comes to interior window trim or casings. Find the mix that works best for you and your family in your house.

Choosing between stained or painted trim

The decision between painted or stained trim and woodwork is highly influenced by the design of your rooms, the type of your house, the amount of natural light available, and your own preferences. Stained trim is a timeless choice that may create a warm and inviting atmosphere while also complementing historic or Craftsman-style houses. However, depending on the tone, it may restrict your options for wall colors. The use of painted trim, particularly white or off-white, may create the appearance of a bigger room and can look excellent with virtually any wall color.

Woodwork that has been stained may be able to withstand more regular usage and friction without chipping. Depending on how they are used, both stained and painted surfaces may require some upkeep.

Stained Trim

For stained trim, pick a species of wood that is complementary to the other woods in your home. Pine and oak are two of the most commonly used woods for window casings. Pine wood has a fine texture and is well suited for painting or staining projects because of this. Oak is a durable wood with a distinct grain pattern that is popular among homeowners because of its flexibility and resistance to decay. Wood trim may be stained in a variety of hues, including light, dark, and medium tones. Leaving wood trim with a natural finish may bring out the texture and grain of the wood, which can provide warmth to a space by bringing the outside in.

Painted Trim

Window trim in a light color: White window trim and window casings are a common modern choice for window trim. Because of its clean, fresh appearance, many designers believe white trim to be ageless in its appeal. White walls may give a striking contrast to vibrant hues, or they can provide a tranquil and airy atmosphere when painted light or white. White trim used with white windows creates a bright, airy appearance, however white trim combined with black window frames creates a contrast that may be used to create a modern or modern farmhouse design.

  • Interiors with dark window casings: A dark trim, particularly black, may look fantastic in modern or industrial-style residences.
  • This is especially true if the window frames are a contrasting hue.
  • Consider using a pine wood trim with a black or charcoal stain to create a rich aesthetic.
  • Colors of trim and casings: Some homeowners and designers seek to have the trim and casings match the color of the walls around them.
  • Decorators who are more daring will paint the trim in a contrasting hue.
  • In the event that you intend to paint your window casings a different color, you may have them primed for painting.

Window casing styles

Window casings are available in a variety of styles, ranging from contemporary to traditional. Decide on a style that complements the architecture of your home, reflects your particular taste, and is complementary to any existing baseboards, crown moulding, chair rails, and window grilles. Ranch style is often laid-back and transitional in nature. Simple elegance that does not draw attention to itself or distract from other components. Craftsman style is often distinguished by its simplicity and fitted appearance.

The provincialstyle is both utilitarian and unpretentious, while yet being timeless.

Provincial-style residences, which are often constructed of brick or stone, are widespread in the United States.

The trim on colonial-style homes is typically more intricate.

If you want your woodwork and trim to be the focal point of your home, this is the style for you. When it comes to window replacement, selecting the inside trim is only one decision. With our Window Replacement 101, you can be sure to cover all of your bases.

About The Author

Sarah is a professional writer by trade and a passionate writer by passion. She specializes in writing about windows and doors, as well as home design and décor, and she is passionate about learning everything she can about the field of home renovation. Her spare time is spent picking up errant socks and pokemon cards that her two young sons have thrown all around the house while she is at work. She is an ardent reader, runner, and gardener, and she is well-known for her atomic salsa, which she created herself.

Casing a Window: An Easy Way to Cover the Jamb

DAP has provided sponsorship for this post. * Hello, everyone! Those who know me well understand that I have a difficult time saying “enough is enough.” Consider the situation in my master closet. Ample storage, high ceilings, and a plenty of natural light make this a pleasant space to work in. When it comes to closets, most people would consider this to be a victory. Me? I see a lot of promise! Yes, it is a substantial space, but is it being properly utilized? Yes, it has basic shelving that is adequate for its function; but, is there a better choice in terms of material and layout?

  1. Yup!
  2. There is no doubt that I have a difficult task ahead of me, but for the time being, we will concentrate on the second item on the previously given list.
  3. Yes, this closet has a wide window that lets in lots of natural light, but it isn’t particularly appealing on the outside.
  4. In order to complete this project, I’ve teamed up with the wonderful people at DAP Technologies.
  5. In order to stock up on DAP supplies, you will want to visit your local Home Depot store.
  6. Today I’m going to teach you how to transform a plain textured window jam into a high-end personalized design with a little creativity.

Remove Pre-existing Trim and/or Sill

When we moved here, there were no window casings at all. It was replaced with textured drywall that went around the area where the window jam would have been. We do, however, have typical marble window sills in place. You are free to cope with this in whatever way you see fit. I don’t like for them, so I decided to pull them out rather than try to work around them. A small amount of glue is usually used, as well as a little coaxing (and by “little coaxing,” I mean beating it out with a hammer) to secure them in place.

Marble shards should be handled with care as they may be very sharp!

Covering Window Jam

Okay, here is the stage that a lot of people overlook when advertising “DIY window casing.” They will frequently leave the interior of the window casing with the same texture as the surrounding wall. This is quite unappealing in my opinion. There are other, more professional solutions (such as tearing out the drywall and replacing it with a board), but I have used this approach quite a bit and am pleased with the results thus far. It’s more of a happy middle result than anything else. On one side, you have a beginner, and on the other, you have a professional installation.

  • You can get this in sheets measuring 4′ x 8′ at your local Home Depot.
  • This would not be necessary in an ideal world where all home builders are flawless and all walls are level and square.
  • One would expect the same width and height to be applied to all sides of a window, and this is true.
  • As a result, I would consider your measures extremely carefully once more.
  • Again, not all walls are flawless, and this may be especially noticeable when working on something as detailed as casing a window frame.
  • After the width has been trimmed, you can proceed to cutting the lengths.
  • As we’ve covered previously, occasionally a house isn’t square, which results in the dimensions being a bit off.

Well, I discovered that my windows were not square, and I had to make some small alterations as a result. Actually, I like to cut to fit rather than vice versa. Consequently, I took along my handy small trim miter saw and just cut everything into position.

Install MDF Trim

I proceeded on to the real installation procedure after everything had been dry fitted (that is, examined to make sure everything fits before installing). Whenever I’m working with a fragile board, such as in this instance, I prefer to fix it using a decent construction glue to keep it from bending. DynaGrip by DAP is a product that I have just been addicted to. This thing is thick and obnoxious, and it is here to stay! For me, it is particularly useful when I am working alone (which is 95 percent of the time).

Then I can hang it on the wall and use my finish nailer to tack in a few of nails to hold it in place until the glue has had time to set.

Installation of Faux Shiplap is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

At this point, it should resemble something similar to the following image.

Install Sill

I used a piece of primed 1′′x 6′′ finger board from The Home Depot to construct a sill for my window. Now, this is entirely a question of personal choice. I needed something that was low-profile and didn’t stretch out and over the lower apron (the trim piece that would go around the perimeter of the window). The window casing should be mostly flush with this instead, like I preferred. The reason for this is that this window will not be a regular window casing; instead, it will be part of the built-ins in the closet.

  1. I’m looking for a good straight edge to butt my built-ins up against.
  2. Okay, so I’m going to start cutting my window sill board to make it fit.
  3. In this particular instance, the window was a double window with a central rail that sliced directly through the middle of my sill board.
  4. (Ignore the filthy appearance of the window in the first place.
  5. Everything has been concealed or cleaned up as of now.) Many people like to use a jigsaw to cut out the notches.
  6. It was then necessary to trim this board to size.
  7. While it was resting against the window, I measured to the outer border of the window and cut my sill to match that measurement as closely as possible.

Add Perimeter Casing

It’s time to case the window. This is something you’ve seen a million times before. You may dress it up or down by adding craftsman style trim or by painting it a different color. However, for this project, we’re going to keep things as simple as possible. As previously said, I simply want to make this window appear a bit more polished, given that it will have fancy closet storage constructed up to it in the future. Consequently, instead of using the standard 1″x4″ on the bottom and something beefier on top, I use 1″x3″ all the way around.

I set them precisely where I intend to permanently install them, so putting them up and taking them down should take no more than 2 seconds.

*** Considering everything we’ve talked thus far, it would seem reasonable to assume that each of these side pieces would be identical, or at the very least square.

Nope. That is how I prefer to temporarily put my top and bottom components first, before moving on to the next step. As soon as the side1/3’s were cut and dry fitted, I secured them with the DynaGrip and then with 2′′18 gauge nails. Repeat the process on all sides.

Make It Pretty

At this stage, the window casing may appear to be a bit less than flawless in appearance. That is perfectly OK! We still have a lot of tricks in our sleeves, so stay tuned. The first issue we want to solve is the holes that were caused when we nailed any of the trim pieces to the wall in the first place. This is a simple repair that can be accomplished with DAP Plastic Wood. It is a filler that is resistant to shrinkage and cracking, as well as sandable and paintable. All of those are non-negotiable when it comes to completing the project on time.

Use a foam sanding block to smooth the surface of the Plastic Wood once it has dried completely.

Then wipe it down with a clean, moist towel until it is completely clean.

There were quite a few differences as a result of this.

Believe me when I say that even the most experienced worker is reliant on this things.

It has the ability to totally conceal a large gap.

There are a few of gaps that are pretty obvious where the trim meets the wall.

When you paint over the spaces, they become entirely imperceptible.

It’s only a matter of adding paint!

It took roughly three applications to achieve the desired effect.

To “reset the clock,” I wanted to start from the beginning.

I’m talking a great deal!

It didn’t take long for me to bring out some Alex Plus Spackle and have them all filled.

No, no, I have a slew of fantastic pans planned for this area, so keep an eye out because this transformation will be mind-blowing in epic proportions.

Isn’t the texture of the wall interesting?

It just took an afternoon to notice the difference between night and day.

Thank you so much for following along, and please continue to do so.

Take Chances, Corey Digiprove has obtained copyright protection for the year 2019.

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