How To Measure Interior Door Size

How To Measure Up For a New Door Size

JB Please keep in mind that locating the correct door size for your needs may be a time-consuming process. We understand that searching for the perfect door just to wind up with an ill-fitting door size is not something anybody wants to experience, so please be understanding. If you follow our instructions on how to measure up for a new door size, you will avoid purchasing a product that is not suitable for your needs. If you are purchasing replacement doors, please keep in mind that you do not need to measure the current door.

Please keep in mind the old craftsman’s adage “measure twice, cut once,” which means “measure twice, cut once.” An additional consideration when taking door dimensions is the direction in which the door swings open.

Hinge positions on the left and right sides indicate which way the door is opened, while position on the left and right sides indicates which way the door is opened.

The width of the door is determined by the measurement that is the broadest.

  • Make use of a tape measure to determine the width of each of the three regions of the doorframe. Measure the width of the frame from the left to the right with a tape measure and make note of the figures
  • Doors are often available in the following widths in the United Kingdom: 24 inches/610 mm, 27 inches/686 mm, 30 inches/762 mm, and 33 inches/838 mm.

Step 2: Measure the door height:

The interior of each vertical side of the frame should be measured. The needed height is determined by the length that is the longest. Keep in mind to account for any floor covering you may have.

  • Measure the height of the door frame with a tape measure to ensure that it is correct. Each side should be measured from the top corner to the bottom corner using the tape, and the longest length should be recorded as the number one. Always keep in mind that you may need to stand on something, such as a chair, in order to reach the top of the frame, so enlisting the assistance of a family member or friend may be a good option. The normal door height in the United Kingdom is most usually 6’6″/1981mm, however some doors may be as high as 2040mm.

Step 3: Measure the door thickness:

Make sure to take this measurement as well if you want to acquire replacement doors and maintain your existing frames. If you want to reproduce the thickness of your existing doors while keeping your existing frames, you will need to replicate the thickness of your existing doors.

  • Measure the thickness of the current door with a tape measure to determine its size. Run the tape measure around the edge of the door and note the thickness measurement
  • You should also measure the rebate in the frame, which is where the door rests when it is closed. The recording of both dimensions should be a tight match and fit with one of the standard door thicknesses in the United Kingdom, which are as follows: The most typical thickness is 35 mm, however some doors may be as thick as 40 mm. NB: The term “fire door” refers to a door with a 45mm thickness.

For a more in-depth look at the most common door sizes, check out our explanation of UK standard door dimensions. If you want a door size that is not normal, please contact us as some of our door ranges may be produced to order in non-standard sizes.

How to measure a door the right way, the first time

The act of measuring the size of a door appears to be very straightforward, doesn’t it? To determine the size of your old door, just take a tape measure and measure its height and breadth. Both yes and no. Actually, there is a little more to measuring doors than just taking the height and width of the door. Your door replacement measurements will differ depending on whether you are replacing only the door or whether you are also replacing the frame and hinges. Follow these steps to learn how to measure a door:

Interior Door Slab

It is possible to replace only the door itself (also known as a door slab) if your frame and hinges are in good shape and you choose to retain them intact. To take measurements for an interior door replacement, follow these steps:

  1. Measure horizontally across the door in three different places: the top, middle, and bottom of the door. The width of the door should be measured from the smallest measurement. Vertical height of the door should be measured from three different points: the left side, the middle, and the right side. Make a note of the shortest measurement, which will serve as the door height. Take the thickness of the door into consideration. Inside doors are typically 1 3/4″ thick (a standard thickness for an internal door).
  2. Take note of the locations of all three hinges. To acquire these dimensions, take a horizontal measurement from the top of the door to the top of each hinge. The width and height of each hinge need to be measured. To find out how much space you have between the top of the door and the center of the bore (hole for the handle). Preventing the door handle and deadbolt from being installed before measuring will provide the most accurate measurement. To find out the distance between the center of the bore (doorknob hole) and the nearest door edge, use the following formula:

Pre-hung System/Net Frame

Even if the door frame is in good condition, if you wish to change it for aesthetic reasons, you will want to take measurements of the approximate opening dimensions before you begin. To prepare for taking measurements, first gently remove the trim from around the opening with a pry bar and putty knife.

Remove any insulation that may have accumulated between the edge of the rough aperture and the door slab using the putty knife. This will make it possible to take more exact measurements.

  1. Just like you would with a standard door slab measurement, take a horizontal measurement across the whole door slab itself. Measure three different locations: the top, the center, and the bottom. The width of the door slab should be measured from the smallest measurement. To measure the vertical height of the door slab itself, perform the same thing as you would for a normal door slab measurement. Measure in three different locations: the left side, the middle, and the right side. Make a note of the shortest measurement, which will serve as the door height. Take three horizontal measurements of the rough opening in a straight line (top, middle, and bottom). Using the smallest measurement, estimate the approximate aperture width. Take three vertical measurements of the rough opening to be used later (left side, center, right side). Make a note of the shortest measurement, which will serve as the approximate entrance height. The thickness of the door jamb should be measured. This dimension is referred to as the jamb width.

Once you’ve taken these measurements, you’ll have all the information you need to choose the appropriate size doors for your home. Please contact us with your measurements, and we would be happy to offer you with a price on one of our many popular door types. Contact us now!

4 Steps to Measure a Door for Replacement

Is it time to update the look of your foyer with a new door or set of draperies? The first step is to ensure that the measurements are accurate, and the good news is that you do not need to be a professional to do so. It is beneficial to have a rudimentary understanding of the anatomy of a door in order to know where to measure. When comparing measurements taken from the door frame to those taken from the rough aperture or the door slab, you will notice a substantial discrepancy in the dimensions obtained.

Tools for door measurements

Here is a list of the materials you will require to accomplish this project:

  • The following items are required: tape measure, notebook and pen, step ladder or chair.

The basic anatomy of a door

It is recommended that you become acquainted with the jargon of the door industry before beginning to measure. If you’re wanting to replace your door, you have the option of installing a door slab or a prehung door, depending on your needs. A prehung door is one that is supplied with hinges and is fastened to the jamb frame before installation. Exterior prehung doors are often equipped with a door sill, frame, and trim, whilst interior prehung doors are typically devoid of a sill or trim. A door slab is simply a solid piece of door that does not include any ornamental trims or accessories such as ashings, jambs, or other decorative elements.

Beyond this little distinction, the procedure of measuring prehung doors for both the exterior and the inside is essentially the same.

Step-by-step guide on how to measure door size

Because it does not have any other features, a door slab is less difficult to measure. To get started, simply follow these steps:

Step 1. Take the width measurements

Position yourself behind the closed door with your tape measure in hand. Placing the tape measure on the door itself, measure from the top left corner to the top right corner, and making a note of these measurements It is also a good idea to measure the center and bottom portions of the door as well. If you receive conflicting measurements, use the largest value and use it as the width of the door.

Step 2. Measure the height

Place the tape measure at the top corner of the door and run it down to the bottom corner of the door to calculate the height of the door while the door is still closed. Take note of the following illustration. Keep in mind that you should measure the slab itself, not the frame or sill. In order to achieve an accurate height measurement, take measurements in several regions of the door and utilize the longest dimension.

Step 3. Determine the thickness of the door

Open the door and set the tape measure on the edge of the door, widthwise, to determine the thickness of the door.

Additionally, you may measure the distance between the jamb’s backside and the stops to figure out the door’s overall thickness. Both approaches should provide you with measurements that are more or less the same as one another. Make a note of this measurement.

Step 4. Determine the dimensions of the door frame

In addition to taking measures for the door itself, it is a good idea to take measurements for the frame as well, just to be on the safe side. This will assist you in selecting a new door that is the best match for your home. To obtain dimensions for the door frame, simply follow these three easy steps:

  • Place the tape measure on the inner side of the door frame on one side and measure all the way around to the other side of the door frame. In more than one point, take measurements and use the least measurement as the width dimensions
  • Measure the distance between the floor (for internal doors) or the threshold (for exterior doors) and the bottom portion of the upper trim of the door. Running a tape measure along the center, left, and right sides of the opening will provide the most accurate height measurement. From the outside region of the side frame to the inner area of the side frame, measure the thickness. Again, take three measurements in separate locations and use the biggest of the three measurements to determine the thickness of the frame
  • It is possible that the door will not fit into the frame, particularly in older homes. In this scenario, you will obtain the most exact measurements by measuring the jamb itself for the dimensions of width, height, and thickness
  • Always take measures from behind the door in order to get precise measurements. This is due to the fact that the rear of a door is often broader than the front side
  • It is preferable to err on the side of a somewhat bigger door rather than a smaller one. Prior to purchasing a new door, be sure to inspect the swing, or the direction in which the door opens.

How to measure for a prehung door

It makes a difference whether you are installing a prehung door in an aperture that has never had a door before or whether you are replacing an existing door in how you measure for a prehung door. In the event that you are building a door in an aperture that has never previously had a door, the following is how to measure for one:

Step 1. Measure the width

Take a tape measure and place it on the inner stud on one side of the stud and follow it along to the stud on the other side. Measure at more than one position, such as the top, middle, and bottom sections of the rough aperture, and use the smallest figure to determine the width of the rough opening.

Step 2. Determine the height

Measure the height of the rough opening from the sill to the lower section of the header, starting at the sill and working your way up. Remember to take three separate measurements and to use the smallest of the three figures as the height.

Step 3. Find out the thickness

When measuring the thickness of a prehung door, you will be measuring the thickness of the wall itself, not the thickness of the door frame or door slab, because there is none to speak of. Place the tape measure against the wall of the rough opening and make a note of the measurements. If you are replacing an old door with a prehung door, follow these procedures to ensure that the correct dimensions are achieved:

Step 4. Get rid of the trim

Remove the trim by prying it out with a pry bar with a flat tip. This guarantees that you are just measuring from the door frame and not from the wall.

Step 5. Figure out the width

Place the tape measure from the outside jamb on one side to the outer jamb on the other side, starting at the outer jamb on one side. As is customary, take measurements at the top, middle, and bottom of the garment and use the smallest measurement as the width.

Step 6. Take the height measurements

Measure the distance between the sill and the upper jamb with a tape measure. If you are measuring an interior door, begin at the floor and work your way up; if you are measuring an exterior door, begin at the door sill. Once again, take three measurements in different locations and choose the shortest figure for the height.

Step 7. Determine the thickness

Start measuring from the inside edge of the side jamb to the outside edge of the side jamb using the tape measure. When measuring for thickness, make sure not to include the exterior trim in order to get precise measurements.

Extended tips

  • If you’re replacing your door, make a note of how far it swings open. This may appear to be a little detail, but it is critical for the proper installation of the new door to be completed. Depending on its orientation, your door may swing to the left or right, and it may swing inward or outward as well. It is simple to determine the swing of a door: Open the door with your back to the hinges and close it behind you. If the door is on your right, the swing is right-handed
  • If the door is flanked on your left, the swing is left-handed. Place yourself on the front side of the door and swing it open. Opened by pushing it toward the room, the door will swing inward, but opened by drawing it toward your body, the door will swing outward. When measuring, allow for some extra space. In response to changes in weather, the door and its surrounding frame might contract or expand, resulting in slightly varied measures at any given moment. Because of the expansion of wood caused by hot weather, your door may graze against the frame. The door, on the other hand, may contract, making it more difficult to latch and unlock. To account for these variations, add a little margin of roughly 2-4mm to each measurement you take. When measuring your door, whether for replacement or new installation, remember to take into consideration ornamental sidelights as well as the door itself. Take these measurements from the outside of your home for the most accurate results. To measure the width and height of the sidelight, lay the tape measure flat against it in a horizontal position first, then vertically.
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An easy job requiring minimal DIY skills

The task of measuring a door for repair or new installation, or even for the purpose of curtain installation, may be completed in as little as a few minutes with the right tools. That being said, the point at which you begin measuring can make a huge difference in the results. Obtain dimensions for both the door slab and the door frame just to be on the safe side. For your convenience, here is a simple rundown on how to measure a door:

  • For the door slab, take three measurements of the width and height of the door itself and use the largest of the three measurements as the final dimension. Measure the thickness of the door’s edge horizontally to obtain the width and height measurements. Starting with the frame itself, rather than simply the door slab, should be used when measuring for a prehung door. Measure from one end of a rough opening to the other end of a rough opening, and from the floor (for an internal door) or threshold (for an exterior door) to the underside of the top trim where there is no rough opening.

Any questions or suggestions regarding how to measure a door would be much appreciated.

Please share your thoughts with us in the comments section below.

How to Measure to Replace an Interior Prehung Door

Prehung interior doors are popular among builders and homeowners because they are easy to install and come with all of the hardware necessary. The manufacturer, Rustica, adds that prehung interior doors have already been built and are sold with their respective door frames. If you are ready to replace a prehung door and frame that is currently in your home, you will need to begin by taking some measurements for the endeavor.

Door Removal and Measuring

Measure for a prehung internal door according to the instructions on the WCMA NET WindowDoor page. Before you can begin, you must first delete the previous one from the system. For this first step, you’ll need a utility knife, a pry bar, a level, and a shim, among other tools and materials. Using the utility knife and pry bar, pry the door frame out of the way. You will be able to see the door studs, also known as beams, at the rear of the molding. If the stud is out of plumb by more than 1/4 inch, make careful you level it out using a level.

For the height, take a measurement from the top of the frame all the way down to the floor surface, close to the right end of the frame.

If the two measures are different, the smaller one should be used to determine your height.

Remaining Door Measurements

For the width, take a measurement from the top of the door frame to the bottom of the door frame and write down the number. Repeat this process twice more, this time in the middle and at the bottom of the door frame. The smallest measurement is the one that will be used in your calculations. You will also need to take the thickness of the door into consideration. Generally speaking, the usual thickness for interior doors is 1 3/8 inches, however you may come across ones that are 1 1/2 inches or 1 3/4 inches in thickness.

Before placing an order for a new internal prehung door, you will need to take note of the thickness of the inner door jamb.

Interior jambs on prehung doors are typically 4 9/16 inches wide, while some doors have jambs that are 6 9/16 inches wide.

Door Size Guides

For further assistance with measuring, Remodeling Expenseprovides online tools, such as door measurement calculators, which you can use to compare your door rough-in with other doors in your house. The average size of a door is 6 feet by 8 feet, with the most common width being 2 feet and 6 inches in width. This information is included in the typical door size chart from Remodeling Expense for prehung doors, as well as bifold and pocket doors, among other things. When it comes to measuring for prehung doors, Bob Vila provides some helpful information, as well as some shopping suggestions that might be handy when you are out shopping.

In addition, the minimum width necessary for most passage doors is 32 inches in height and breadth.

For those considering making that investment, it may be wise to have a professional come to your home and take precise measurements before placing your order for the door.

Things You Will Need

  • Utility knife, pry bar, level, shim, tape measure, pencil or pen, and paper are all required.

How to Measure the Size of a Door

Article in PDF format Article in PDF format It is as simple as taking a few measurements and performing some basic math to figure out the size of your front door. All that is required is the use of a measuring instrument to determine the height and breadth of the door. Once you have taken correct measurements, you can begin working on any home improvement project you have in mind, whether it is replacing a door, installing a new type door, or simply decorating the one you presently have.

  1. 1 Take a measurement of the width of the door. Run a tape measure along the length of your door from the left corner to the right corner and make a note of the measurement. It is critical that you just take measurements for the door. Make sure to leave out any extraneous components, such as weather-stripping.
  • It is especially crucial to measure in more than one position when dealing with older doors, just in case the door is not completely rectangular in the first place. The greatest value should be used if the quantities differ. For example, door widths of 30 inches (76 cm), 32 inches (81 cm), and 36 inches (91 cm) are considered standard.
  • 2 Measure the width of the door and the height of the door. Measure the length of your door from the top corner to the bottom corner with a tape measure and write down the result on a piece of paper. It is possible that you will need to use a chair and/or enlist the assistance of a friend. Once again, only the door itself should be measured, not any other components such as a door sweep.
  • Once again, it’s a good idea to take measurements in more than one location on the door in case it’s not a perfectly rectangular shape. This is especially true for doors that are over a decade old. Even if the amounts are different, choose the greatest value possible. For example, the most typical door height is 80 inches (200 cm).
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  • s3 Decide on the door’s thickness by using the table below. Measure the thickness of the door’s edge with a tape measure and make a note of it. This edge on the door frame (also known as the jamb) should be measured as well. Although these values should be quite near to one another, it might be beneficial to be aware of both of them.
  • The most often encountered thickness is 1.75 inches (4.4 cm).
  • 4 Take the height and width of the framed door space into consideration. To be on the safe side, you should also measure the space where your door will be installed. Make a note of the height and breadth of the gap between the door frame and the wall. This will assist you in ensuring that you purchase the most appropriate replacement door.
  • Measure the width of the door at three different points. As a rule of thumb, choose the smallest figure possible. Take the height of the door in the middle, directly in the centre of the opening. Measure from the floor to the underside of the trim at the top of the door
  • If necessary, round down rather than round up the measurements. This will assist you in ensuring that your door will fit.
  1. 1 Take a photo of your front door and print it out for reference. When you walk into the store to choose a new door, you should carry a diagram with all of the important qualities and dimensions with you to the store. One simple method for accomplishing this is to photograph your door and then print off the image
  • Alternatively, you may just create a diagram on paper using a pen
  • 2 Make a note of the direction in which your door swings. Please open your door. Your body should be positioned such that your back is against the hinges. If the door is on the right side of the room, it is a right-handed room. If the door is on the left side of the room, it is left-handed. In addition, your door will be either in-swing or out-swing. Determine both of these characteristics and make a note of them on the diagram that you created
  • A sliding door that swings into your home (or into a room) is called an in-swing door, while a sliding door that opens outward is called an out-swing door.
  1. 3Draw a graphic of your measurements and label each one. On your diagram, note the dimensions of your door, including its height, breadth, and thickness. Make a note of the door frame’s height, breadth, and thickness, as well. You should bring this diagram along with you while you are shopping for doors. If you follow the instructions in this illustration, the procedure of changing your door should be much simpler. Bring it with you whenever you are looking at doors and use it to influence your decision on which one to buy. Advertisement

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  • QuestionHow do I measure for a new door? Ryaan Tuttle is the founder and CEO of Best Handyman Boston, a company that specializes in home improvement. Ryaan has over 15 years of expertise in the home renovation and property care industry, and he specializes in integrating technology and craftsmanship to achieve superior results. Ryaan is a licensed construction supervisor as well as a licensed home improvement contractor. Best Handyman Boston, in contrast to the majority of handyman contractors, is licensed and insured. Best Handyman Boston has been recognized the “Best Handyman in Boston” by Boston Magazine and LocalBest.com, among other publications. Home Improvement SpecialistExpert Answer
  • sQuestion In order to install a new door and a new door frame, I need to know how to measure. Ryaan Tuttle is the founder and CEO of Best Handyman Boston, a company that specializes in home improvement. Ryaan has over 15 years of expertise in the home renovation and property care industry, and he specializes in integrating technology and craftsmanship to achieve superior results. Ryaan is a licensed construction supervisor as well as a licensed home improvement contractor. Best Handyman Boston, in contrast to the majority of handyman contractors, is licensed and insured. Best Handyman Boston has been recognized the “Best Handyman in Boston” by Boston Magazine and LocalBest.com, among other publications. Expert Answer from a Home Improvement Specialist

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About This Article

Summary of the ArticleXTo determine the size of a door, first determine its width by measuring from the left corner of the door to the right corner of the door. Then, using a tape measure, measure the height of your door by running it from the top corner to the bottom corner. Using a tape measure, measure the thickness of your door by placing it against the inside edge of the door jam and marking it with a 0 or a 1. In the event that the door is not a perfect rectangle, take these measurements from a few different locations on the door to double-check your results.

For instructions on how to draw a schematic of your door, continue reading!

The writers of this page have together authored a page that has been read 180,902 times.

Did this article help you?

The process of measuring an old door or door opening for a replacement door is straightforward. Knowing how to properly use a tape measure will allow you to measure a door effectively. Choosing where to take measures is the only difficult part: should you measure the door itself, the door frame, or the entire opening? This will become evident once you have a basic understanding of door structure and have determined how much of the door you will be replacing. In order to function effectively, doors must be installed plumb and level on the wall.

Prehung Door Unit vs. Door Slab

In the door business, a prehung door is a whole door unit that consists of a door that has already been hung with hinges and a jamb frame that is complete. In most cases, interior prehung doors contain side and top jambs, but they do not include a door sill or threshold, nor any ornamental trim. Many external prehung doors come with outside trim, which is often a conventional thick wood molding known as brick mold. Exterior prehung doors feature a four-sided frame with a threshold, and many of them contain exterior trim.

Prehung door installation on an outside wall.

This is referred to as a door slab.

It is the same technique to measure for both interior and exterior doors, with the exception of prehung exterior doors with trim, which require an additional measurement to ensure the trim will fit the opening for the external siding.

Door Anatomy

First, a brief introduction to the construction of doors. Therough opening is the term used to describe the structural opening in a wall that is used for a door. Essentially, this is the opening made by the wall studs on either side, together with the header at the top and the floor or sill at the bottom. A door frame, sometimes known as a jamb frame, is the wood frame from which a door hangs. It is composed of side jambs, a top (or head) jamb, and, in the case of external doors, a threshold, among other components.

  • Exterior doors are typically equipped with jambs that include a built-in step that serves as a stop.
  • This gives you enough space to fit the frame into the opening and square it up before fastening it to the framing of the rough opening with screws or nails.
  • Shims are inserted into these gaps at the points where the nails or screws are hammered, and they assist to maintain the frame plumb and level.
  • This trim, which is known as casing, must be removed in order to measure for a prehung door, but it can be left in place if you are only replacing the door slab and nothing else.
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How to Measure for a Prehung Door

Because a prehung door unit is already equipped with a door that is designed to suit its frame, all of your measurements will be taken in relation to the frame rather than to the door slab. If you’re replacing an existing door unit, you should consider the following:

  1. Using a flat pry bar, remove the casing (trim) on one side of the door (the inner side for external doors)
  2. To determine the width of the door frame, measure the distance between the outside of one jamb and the outside of another jamb on the opposite side of the door frame. Measure at three different locations: The top, center, and bottom of the frame should all have the smallest possible measurements. Measure the height of the door frame from the bottom of the threshold (for an exterior door) or the surface of the floor (for an interior door) to the top edge of the top jamb on the outside (outside edge). Repeat the process by measuring in three locations and using the least measurement
  3. Measure the width of the side jamb from the inside edge to the external edge, excluding the exterior trim. Note: This measurement does not include the exterior trim. The width of the jambs should be equal to the whole thickness of the wall, excluding any trim or siding, if applicable. The width and height of the trim frame on the outer side of the door should be measured as well. The size of the opening in the siding will be determined by the size of the door unit after it is removed. The new door should have a brick mold that matches these measurements, or you should plan to build new trim that will bridge the gap between the door jambs and the siding to make up for the difference. Before ordering a new door, double-check the swing of the existing door (see below).

If you’re installing a prehung door in a rough opening, you’ll need to accomplish the following:

  1. Using the inner faces of the side studs as your guide, measure the width of the rough aperture. Take measurements at the top, center, and bottom of the aperture, and use the smallest measurement possible
  2. To determine the height of the rough opening, start at the floor or rough sill and work your way down to the bottom face of the header. Measure three times and use the smallest of the three measurements
  3. The thickness of the wall should be determined by measuring from the exposed faces of the drywall or sheathing on both sides of the wall
  4. Before ordering a new door, double-check the swing of the existing door (see below). Place an order with the manufacturer for the door unit using the measurements you took. Shim gaps will be accommodated by subtracting the necessary amount from the width and height measurements supplied by the manufacturer.

The preliminary opening measurements for the door will be used to place an order for a replacement prehung door.

How to Measure for a Door Slab

Door slabs are simple to measure since you are just taking the measurements of the old door while it is still in place. Note that the width of the door should be measured from the rear, which is the side that opens in, because this side is somewhat broader than the front side. In order to avoid the door scraping against the jamb as it closes, the edge of the door on the latch side has been gently beveled.

  1. To begin, close the door and place your feet on the rear of the door, where the hinges can be seen
  2. Take measurements of the door’s width and height
  3. Open the door and take a measurement of the thickness of the door
  4. Before ordering a new door, double-check the swing of the existing door (see below).

Instead, if the old door does not fit its frame properly, or if the old door is not present, measure the jamb frame, which should be as follows:

  1. Measure the width of the interior of the frame at the top, middle, and bottom, and pick the smallest measurement available. Make certain that you are measuring to the jambs and not the stops. To find out how tall your door frame is, measure it from the top of the floor (for an internal door) or the threshold (for an exterior door), all the way to the inner (bottom) face of the top jamb. Measure three times and use the smallest of the three measurements
  2. If you want to know how thick your door should be, take a measurement of how much space there is between the stops and the rear of the jambs
  3. This is the depth of the pocket the door will fit into when it is closed. Use the measured dimension (a door that is about 1/16 inch narrower than the stated dimension is acceptable as well)

Which Way Does Your Door Swing?

Doors can be opened from either the left or the right. This is referred to as the door swing.

In order to figure out which way your door swings, open it all the way and stand with your back against the hinge-side jamb. The term “left-handdoor” refers to the door that is on your left side. If the door is located on your right side, it is referred to as a right-hand door.

Standard Door Size 101: Important Measurements All Homeowners Should Know

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Q: We just purchased a home that was built in the 1960s and will be remodeling to bring it up to date. Our plans include adding some new doors, and we’re wondering what sizes will work best. Are there any standard door guidelines?

A:Congratulations on your recent acquisition of a residence! Because many older homes were built before local building rules were established and because doors were typically fashioned by hand, not all older homes have doors of the same size as one another. Doors are now available in regular sizes, and they can be found at DIY stores and home improvement centers around the country. Additionally, many retailers sell a variety of different door sizes that may be utilized in specific regions of the house in addition to the usual ones.

There are standard door sizes and some alternates available.

Interior doors are available in a variety of standard heights, widths, and thicknesses, which are as follows:

  • Interior doors are typically 80 inches in height, according to industry standards. For doors leading from one room to another, this is the most typical height for corridor doors. Due to the fact that an 80-inch door is 6′ 8″ tall (pronounced “six-eight”), it is referred to as a 6/8 door (pronounced “six-eight”). A slightly shorter 78-inch door is also available for immediate delivery. It is referred to as a 6/6 door, and it is reserved for closet and utility doors. The standard door width for interiors is 32 inches in height and breadth. For a passage door, this is the minimum width that must be met. You might also be able to locate some thinner doors in stock, such as 30 inches, 28 inches, and 24 inches in width. If you need a closet or utility door, these narrower widths are permitted by code
  • You may be able to find 36-inch-wide doors on hand. Wider choices that comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) are a popular choice for homes with people who have mobility challenges. The inner thickness is 13.8 inches on average. Generally speaking, this is the most popular interior door thickness, and it is often the only one available at home improvement stores. Some businesses may have doors in stock that are 112 inches thick and 134 inches thick alternately. The walls of these are slightly thicker than the norm, and they are frequently insulated or made of hardwood. Interior door jamb thickness on pre-hung doors is 4-9/16 inches as a general rule of thumb. The door jamb is the frame that attaches to the wall and provides support for the door through the use of hinges. When installed in a normal two-by-four wall (which is really made up of studs that are 112 inches by 312 inches in size), this thickness is intended to provide enough insulation. The thickness of an alternative jamb is 6-9/16 inches. It is intended to be used with two-by-six walls (which are really formed from studs that measure 11 1/2 inches by 5 12 inches)

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Measuring for a new door is a simple process.

The majority of the time, when purchasing a door, you’ll want one that is pre-hung, which means it comes with the frame (jamb) already attached. The other form of door, known as a “slab door,” is distinguished by the fact that it has simply the door and no frame.

Measuring for a Pre-Hung Door

  1. To find out where the sides of the door will fit when it is closed, open the door and take a measurement from the inside of one jamb tothe inside of the other jamb (see illustration). Make a note of the number
  2. While the door is still open, take a measurement from the top of the jamb on the inside (where the door would fit when closed) to the bottom of the door. Make a subtraction of 34 inch and put the result down. Flooring allowance is represented by a 34 inch deduction. Take a measurement of the thickness of the door itself and put the result down on paper. When you go to the home improvement center, make sure to bring all three numbers with you.

Measuring for a Slab Door

  1. To determine the width, height, and thickness of a slab door to replace, do not measure the jamb—measure the door itself.

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Choose a pre-hung door with slightly smaller measurements.

A skilled carpenter (you’ll need at least basic carpentry abilities to hang a door) may then use this method to fit the new door frame into the rough opening that was previously used to hold the old door. It’s not uncommon to have to use a few shims to get a snug fit. It is best to avoid purchasing a pre-hung door that is slightly larger in size than your old door if you are doing the work yourself. It would be necessary to remove a section of the rough-in frame (in the wall) in order to fit the door jamb, and because this would modify the load-bearing structure of the wall, it would be best left to a professional.

Or, select a slab door with slightly larger measurements.

If you’re simply changing the door and not the jamb, you’ll wind up with gaps between the door and the jamb if you get a smaller door. Instead, purchase a slab door that is somewhat bigger in size than the current door and then shave it down to the precise size of the old door. Fitting a slab door as a do-it-yourself job will take time since it needs accuracy to form the indentions needed to fit the hinges and install a new strike plate that is properly matched to the old door. While installing a slab door may appear to be less complex than installing a pre-hung door, it is really more complicated.

If you want more wall space, consider a narrower door.

Large doors may be overwhelming in tiny spaces, so if you have a limited amount of available space, a smaller door can create a cleaner aesthetic while also adding wall space. Removal of the existing door and jamb, as well as reconfiguration of the rough-in frame in the wall, is required in order for a new pre-hung door to suit the available space. This project is well within the capability of a do-it-yourselfer with a rudimentary understanding of carpentry.

Consider remodeling with wider doors if your home’s doors are too narrow.

When upgrading an older property, it may be necessary to enlarge entrances since it can be difficult (if not impossible) to carry heavy furniture through them in the first place. There are a few 36-inch doors available in stock, but your best chance is to purchase bespoke doors from a home center or building supply store.

Because the rough-in aperture in the wall will have to be increased in size, it is recommended that a professional install these doors for you. RELATED: Weekend Projects: 5 DIY Door Designs to Get You Started

You can also order a custom size pre-hung door.

If your measurements don’t quite match the normal size for doors available at the shop, but you aren’t willing to extend or narrow the existing door frame, know that manufacturers will custom-make pre-hung doors to your exact requirements at no additional cost. This option ensures that your door will fit exactly in its jamb and will open and close with ease when you do so. Using this method, you may remove the old door casing and trim, install the new door, and then replace the original casing and trim, painting or staining the new door to match the old.

Entry doors are usually 36 inches wide.

However, while a door width of 36 inches is considered excessive for an interior door, it is considered conventional for front doors. The standard height, which is 80 inches, stays the same, however, as before. Additionally, the majority of entry doors are slightly thicker than interior doors, with a normal thickness of 134 inches. These somewhat wider doorways make it easy to bring in huge appliances and furniture pieces into the house without difficulty. For two-by-four and two-by-six wall framing, standard jamb thicknesses are identical to interior door jamb thicknesses, measuring 4-9/16 inches or 6-9/16 inches, respectively, to fit the walls.

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Learn How to Measure for a Door

These are some of the topics covered by Do It Yourself (or DIY) information: Door Dimensions are Measured Determine the width of the jamb and the handling and swing of the door Identifying the Bore Position Making an Interior Door a Reality Installation of a Front Entry Door

Measuring Door Size

The first step in determining the size of a new door is to take a measurement of the rough opening where the door will eventually be installed. The term “rough opening” refers to the opening of the stud wall structure before the door jamb is installed. The following is the procedure for estimating the width and height of the door that will be required for the rough opening:

  1. Measure the width of the rough opening from inside of wall stud to inside of wall stud, starting from the inside of wall stud (see the illustration for this measurement). It is necessary to measure this in three locations: the top, center, and bottom of the entrance, and then use the least of the three measures. Then remove 2 inches from the width of the rectangle. This is the same as the required door width. For example, the rough opening width is 38 inches. Door width required = 36′′, or 3′ 0′′ (38′′ minus 2′′ = 36′′, or 3′ 0′′)
  2. Measure the height of the rough opening from the bottom of the upper stud of the aperture up to the top of the rough opening (see the illustration for this measurement). Measure the height of the opening’s corner edges on both sides, and then use the smaller of the two measurements as your starting point. Then subtract 3′′ from this height to get the final height. This is the same as the required door height. For example, the rough opening height is 99 inches. Door height required = 96 inches, or 8 feet 0 inches (99 inches – 3 inches = 96 inches, or 8 feet 0 inches)
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To frame a new door opening (i.e., to build the wall stud frame), use the measures listed above in the opposite direction of their intended use. For example, choose the required completed door width and add 2 inches to this number to get the desired finished door height. Choose your desired completed door height and add 3 inches to this measurement to get the finished door height you want. Why is it necessary for the aperture to be larger than the door and its jamb in this case? First and foremost, the extra space allows for the proper adjustment of the door and jamb to the rough opening.

A second benefit is that the greater height provides more area for flooring material above the sub-floor, such as carpets for interior doors, wood for exterior doors, or tile above the sill for internal doors.

Last but not least, walls may expand and contract somewhat as a result of the natural variations in humidity and moisture that occur with the changing seasons. As a result, the extra space enables for modest modifications to be made to the door fit as needed.

Measuring Jamb Width

Door jambs must be large enough to encompass the whole thickness of the wall on which the door will be installed, if possible. As a result, determining the thickness of the wall is the first step in determining the appropriate jamb width. The wall thickness comprises the thickness of the wall studs as well as the thickness of the sheetrock. Typically, 2×4 or 2×6 studs are used for wall framing, depending on the application. Sheetrock is typically 1/2 inch thick or 5/8 inch thick, depending on the manufacturer (premium sheetrock).

Interior Jamb Widths

The following widths of “flat” jambs with adjustable stops are available for interior doors, to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses:

FLAT JAMB WITH ADJUSTABLE STOP

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 4-5/8″ Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 4-7/8″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 6-5/8″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 6-7/8″ Wide

kerf is a slot cut into the edge of the jamb that is used to wrap the drywall corner bead (rounded drywall corners) around the jamb. Using kerfed flat jambs, you may create a “caseless” opening by joining drywall directly to the door frame, removing the need for case mouldings altogether. Flat jambs for interior doors are available in the following lengths to meet the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses: kerfed (on both sides) flat jambs for internal doors

KERFED (BOTH SIDES) FLAT JAMB WITH ADJUSTABLE STOP

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 3-1/2″ Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 3-1/2″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 5-1/2″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 5-1/2″ Wide

For interior doors, kerfed (one-sided) flat jambs are available in the following lengths to accommodate the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses:

KERFED (ONE SIDE) FLAT JAMB WITH ADJUSTABLE STOP

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 4-1/16″ Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 4-3/16″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 6-1/16″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 6-3/16″ Wide

Exterior Jamb Widths

Rabbeted jambs, which are more sturdy than flat jambs, are necessary for outside doors and are more expensive. These jambs are equipped with a non-adjustable stop that has been carved into solid wood. In order to match the following wall stud and sheetrock thicknesses, rabbeted jambs are available in the following widths: 1 12 in.

RABBETED JAMB

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 4-5/8″ Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 4-7/8″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 6-5/8″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 6-7/8″ Wide

Kerfed (one-sided) rabbeted jambs for exterior doors are available in the following widths to meet the following stud and sheetrock thicknesses: 1″ kerfed (one-sided) rabbeted jambs for external doors

KERFED (ONE SIDE) RABBETED JAMB

Stud, Sheetrock Thickness Jamb Width
2×4 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 4-1/16″ Wide
2×4 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 4-3/16″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 1/2″ Sheetrock 6-1/16″ Wide
2×6 Stud, 5/8″ Sheetrock 6-3/16″ Wide

Determining Handing and Swing

“Handing and swing” refers to the manner in which a door opens, namely the side of the door that is hinged, as well as the direction in which the door swings into or outside of a room or dwelling. A person stands in the doorway and leans his or her back against the jamb of the door, where the hinges are to be installed, to assess the door’s handing. If the door is desired to open to the left from this position, it is referred to as a “left hand” door. Alternatively, if the door is to be opened to the right from this location, it is referred to as a “right hand” door.

Alternatively, if the door is to be opened from outside the room or house, it is referred to as a “outswing” door.

SINGLE DOORS

The handling and swing for single doors, whether they are internal or exterior doors, are depicted in the following photographs.

The arrows point either inside (inswing) or outside (outswing) of the room or dwelling, depending on which direction they are pointing.

DOUBLE DOORS

One door is classified as “active” (i.e., with an operational handle, knob, or lever to open the door), while the other door is designated as “inactive” (i.e., without an operating handle, knob, or lever to open the door) (i.e., still opens and closes, but with no working handle, knob, or lever). The inactive door has a “T-astragal” attached to it, which serves as a door stop for the active door when it is closed. In addition, the inactive door is equipped with a “flush bolt,” which serves to keep the inactive door in the closed position.

Inactive external double doors with flush bolts at the top and bottom of the inactive door are included with pre-hung exterior double doors.

The arrows point either inside (inswing) or outside (outswing) of the room or dwelling, depending on which direction they are pointing.

BALL CATCH, BYPASS, AND BI-FOLD DOORS

Additionally, Sun Mountain provides inside double doors in “ball catch,” “bypass,” and bi-fold configurations, in addition to these handling and swing choices. These double door configurations are most frequently used on closet or pantry door applications, among other things. Typical applications include the usage of ball catches in conjunction with “dummy” (non-active) handles on outswing closet doors. Ball catch hardware is included in the pricing of ball catch doors and is given at no additional charge.

Sun Mountain, on the other hand, does not bore for the false handles, knobs, or levers that are included with these alternatives.

Double Ball Catch is a catch in which two balls are caught together.

Determining Bore Position

At no additional price, when a pre-hung door is ordered, Sun Mountain may bore and mortise the new door to accommodate a handle or lockset (this is referred to as “machining”). The machining must be consistent with the hardware that will be used on the door, and the client must confirm this with the hardware supplier prior to selecting the bore location for the door. If the door hardware is acquired from Sun Mountain, the company may assist with this and verify that the right machining specifications are set to match the hardware purchased from Sun Mountain.

Typically, double bores are seen on external doors that have both a lockset and a deadbolt installed.

Among Sun Mountain’s standard machining for hardware is the placement of the first bore at 36 inches from the bottom of the door, as well as the diameter of the bore hole.

Backsets (the distance between the edge of the door and the center of the bore diameter) are available in two sizes: 2-3/8′′ and 2-3/4′′. Single bore and double bore Sun Mountain standard bore and backsets are illustrated in the following photographs for single bore and double bore applications.

Installing an Interior Door

This section includes step-by-step directions for installing a pre-hung and pre-finished inside door that has been pre-finished. Following these instructions carries no liability on the part of Sun Mountain, and we highly advise that do-it-yourselfers seek the assistance of a competent contractor for door installation. This installation requires “Intermediate” level of ability. Tools 6′ is the minimum required level. Measure using a hammer, drill, and tape Materials Interior door that has been pre-hung and pre-finished is required.

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. The door and jamb unit should be placed in the opening. Place the pre-hung door unit in the rough opening that has been prepared. Unit must be centered such that there is equal distance between the unit and each of the wall studs or wall structure on each side
  2. The hinge side of the door must be shimmered. Shims should be used to fill in the gap between the door jamb and the wall stud on the hinge side of the unit on the hinge side of the unit. Shims should be placed between the door unit and each wall stud at each hinge point in order to temporarily hold the door in place. Check to be that the door unit is flush with the face of the sheet rock on both the front and rear sides of the door. Pre-drill a hole through the door stop at the top hinge shim to accommodate the hinge shim (or, as desired, remove the adjustable stop and pre-drill through the jamb behind the stop). In this hole, drive one 2-1/2-inch finishing nail to temporarily hold the door in place
  3. Check that the hinge side of the door is level and plumb before continuing. Verify that the jamb is square by placing a 6′ level on the front face of the hinge side of the jamb and moving it back and forth. In order to have an exact center bubble on the level, the middle and lower hinge shims must be adjusted as well. After the hinge side of the jamb has been squared, the jamb should be checked for plumb. Rotate the level so that it is flush against the front edge of the hinge side of the jamb when it is finished. A last time, make certain that each corresponding bubble on the level is perfectly centered
  4. Then secure the jamb on the hinge side. Once the hinge side of the jamb is square and plumb, pre-drill holes through the stop at both the center and bottom hinges to ensure that the hinges are properly aligned (or, as desired, remove the adjustable stop and pre-drill through the jamb behind the stop). To hold the hinge side of the jamb in place, drive 2-1/2′′ finishing nails into the holes in the jamb. Shim the door’s strike side to the right. Make sure that the strike side (latch side) of the door unit is square and plumb by putting shims at the top, middle, and bottom of the unit between the jamb and wall stud
  5. Check that the strike side of the door unit is square and plumb. Verify that the jamb is square with a 6′ level, which should be placed on the face of the strike side of the jamb. Adjust the middle and lower strike side shims until the bubble on the level is exactly in the center of the strike side shim adjustment. After the strike side of the jamb has been squared, check the jamb for plumb by holding it up to the light. Rotate the level so that it sits flat along the front facing edge of the strike side of the jamb on the strike side. Maintain the accuracy of the linked bubble on the level by making sure it is exactly in the center. Fix the jamb on the strike side of the door. Using a pre-drilled hole through the stop at both the middle and bottom of the strike side of the jamb, pre-drill holes through the strike side of the jamb once it is square and plumb (or, as desired, remove the adjustable stop and pre-drill through the jamb behind the stop). To hold the strike side of the jamb in place, drive 2-1/2′′ finishing nails into the holes in the jamb. Check the width dimensions. Check the distance between the hinge jamb and the strike jamb with a tape measure to ensure that the distance is the same at the top, middle, and bottom of the jamb. Carefully remove the temporary nails and adjust the distance between each position by adding or removing shims as needed. After adjusting the jamb, remove the temporary nails and shim the header (top) of the jamb. Shims should be placed in two equal spots on the top of the door unit, between the header (top) of the jamb and the wall stud above it, on the top of the door unit. The shims should be adjusted so that an even margin (known as the “reveal”) exists between the door and the jamb across the top of the door
  6. Secure the jamb header to the door frame (top). Create two holes in the header (top) of the unit, one for each of the two shims, by pre-drilling through the door stop and into the header (top) (or, as desired, remove the adjustable stop and pre-drill through the jamb behind the stop). To secure the jamb header in place, drive 2-1/2′′ finishing nails into the holes in the jamb header. Verify that the disclosure was successful. Close the door and check to see that there is equal gap between the door and the jamb at the top and along both sides of the doorframe (again, called the reveal). Shims can be moved to any position until the desired spacing is attained. The item should be secured with extra finishing nails (replace any broken or missing adjustable stops). A second set of nails is required to fasten the jamb once it has been verified that it has an even reveal. When you first open the door, insert a second 2-1/2′′ finishing nail on the hinge side of the jamb, adjacent to the stop but on the narrow side of the jamb, for each of the three shim placements. Then close the door. This should be repeated on the strike side of the door frame. Use a nail to counter sink the heads of all finishing nails after they have been put. Replace the center screws on the hinges after all finishing nails have been installed Removing the center hinge screw(s) from the top hinge where the hinge attaches to the jamb after the second set of finishing nails has been secured is the next step (not where the hinge is attached to the door). The screw(s) should be replaced with a 2-1/2-inch screw (s). This process should be repeated on the middle and bottom hinges (again, solely on the jamb side of the hinge)

The internal door has now been placed, and the case moulding (if applicable) can now be added to the structure.

Installing an Exterior Door

Sun Mountain highly advises that do-it-yourselfers seek the assistance of a professional contractor before installing an external door on their home.

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