How To Insulate Interior Walls

How To Insulate Existing Interior Walls

It is possible that you may need to add insulation to existing inside walls, especially if your home is more than 100 years old. If you have the correct equipment and insulation type, this task may appear to be complex at first appearance, but it is actually rather simple. But what is the most efficient method of accomplishing this? We’ve looked into the solution to this question for you, and we’ll go over it in more detail in this post. Insulating your inside walls using blow-in insulation is the most effective approach to insulate your home’s internal walls without having to remove drywall.

The following are the measures to take while installing insulation behind interior walls: 1.

  1. Determine the location of the wall studs
  2. Drill the insertion holes in the studs
  3. Incorporate the insulation into the wall
  4. Patch up drywall using a drywall knife

Older homes are sometimes prone to chilly drafts and other temperature difficulties, which can result in high energy bills during both the warmer and colder months of the year, depending on the season. This sort of problem may be avoided by installing enough insulation, particularly when it comes to cold drafts. If your internal walls are already in place, continue reading to learn how to install it in that situation.

Steps to Install Insulation Into Established Interior Walls

You’ll need the following items:

  • Large drill bits
  • Blow-in insulation and machine
  • Protective goggles
  • Worker’s gloves
  • Blow-in insulation
  • Blow-in machine Wall repair kit, trowel or putty knife, cleaning cloth, and stud finder are all required. Masks for ventilation
  • Tarp

1. Locate the wall studs

Make a thorough inspection of the whole wall behind which you intend to put the insulation using your stud finder. Following that, using a piece of chalk or a pencil, indicate the regions where the studs will be spaced apart. In most cases, you’ll notice that there is a gap between each stud in the wall that ranges from 14 and 16 inches in width. It is possible that the space between the windows will be shorter. This stud finder may be purchased on Amazon.

2. Drill the insertion holes

Then, using a stepladder, mark the locations on the wall where you will drill holes for the screws. It is important that these holes are located between studs in the wall, and that they are all at least 8 inches below the ceiling height of the room. In order to guarantee that there are no plumbing or electrical lines going behind your other drill sites, first check behind the first few drill holes to make sure they are not there. It may also be a good idea to turn off the electricity in the room for additional security.

Afterwards, use your drill to make two-inch holes in the drywall in the spots that you’ve outlined with your pencil.

3. Feed the insulation into the wall

Take the nozzle of your blower and insert it into the first drill hole, making sure that it is pointing downward. You’ll want the nozzle to extend as far as feasible. – In order to prevent the hole from being accessed, wrap a thick towel or similar large piece of cloth around the hole entrance. While the blower is running, this will prevent insulation from flying out of the hole and damaging the surrounding area. Turn on the blower and move the insulation between the studs while it is being installed.

Maintaining awareness of the fact that a great deal of dust and debris will be kicked up during this process will ensure that you put on your goggles and ventilation mask prior to beginning the process.

Carry on with this method until you’ve stuffed insulation into every inch of the room’s interior walls.

4. Do drywall patchwork

After the insulation has been installed in the room’s walls, take your drywall repair kit and go over each hole, using mesh and spackle as necessary to close the holes up. As soon as the spackle has dried, apply primer and paint to the affected areas, making sure that they are uniform in appearance with the surrounding wall. Are you a visual learner who like to see things? If you want to see how it’s done, have a look at this video:

How do you insulate an old house without tearing down walls?

There are a few various approaches you may use to insulate an older home without having to tear down walls. Let us have a look at how.

Insulate the interior walls

When it comes to insulating a historic house without tearing down the walls, the most frequent method is to place insulation beneath the walls themselves. The best type of insulation for this is blow-in insulation. It will be necessary to drill holes into the wall and feed the insulation between the joists behind the wall structure in order to accomplish this. If you have some basic carpentry skills and are comfortable working with blow-in insulation, you can complete this task on your own time.

A contractor may charge anywhere from $400 to more than $800 for this type of project, depending on the size of the room, the supporting structures behind the drywall, and the amount of insulation required to complete it.

Double insulate the attic and the roof

It is normal for most homes to lose heat through the attic and roof since heat rises and escapes through these places. As an alternative to insulating your entire home, which may result in concerns such as excessive humidity and structural damage within your walls, you may add an extra layer of insulation to your roof attic for a few hundred dollars instead. The type of insulation you pick will be determined by the amount of existing insulation in your attic as well as the configuration of the space.

Repair exterior brick base

It is common for homes with vinyl siding to have a brick foundation that is around five to six feet high. A crack or gap between bricks can develop over time, creating gaps and holes that allow breezes and water to seep through. This is referred to as “weep holes” in some circles. It is preferable to have a contractor repair these gaps in order to increase the insulation of your home and keep your energy expenditures down. The cost of repairing the area might range from $250 to more than $500, depending on how much square footage has to be restored.

Seal the windows

It’s also a good idea to inspect all of the windows in your house to make sure they’re not broken. The second most prevalent source of energy loss is through windows. Checking the seals surrounding your windows, whether you have single or double pane windows, is recommended on a regular basis to ensure there are no gaps, holes, or broken frames. If you just have single-pane windows, you may also use window film to insulate them from the elements.

It is possible to insulate your windows even more by placing a thermal curtain or blind covering over them. In most cases, you can find these window treatments at your local home improvement store or on the internet.

Seal crawl spaces

It is possible that your first floor has a basement or crawl area beneath it. When possible, inspect the existing insulation to determine whether any signs of mildew, mold, or dampness have developed in the surrounding area. When it comes to energy loss throughout the year, this can also be a contributing factor to the problem. Overall, when it comes to properly insulating your home, it is preferable to have a strategy in place that is as aggressive as possible.

Can I put insulation over drywall?

Yes, it is possible to lay insulation over drywall. This, on the other hand, is not normally suggested. One of the primary reasons for this is that insulation will make the room appear smaller, and it will almost always need to be covered with some sort of barrier unless you don’t mind having it visible. You may, on the other hand, think about constructing a fake wall in front of the insulation. However, keep in mind that this will further restrict the available space in the room. If you are determined to insulate a certain wall, consider using other thermal barriers, such as thermal blankets or other materials, in addition to the wall insulation.

Does it make sense to insulate interior walls?

Investing in insulation for your internal walls might make sense if your home is older and you are having major problems with temperature regulation. However, it’s always a good idea to start by considering other types of insulation. In this case, the roof, attic, basement, and windows of the home are all properly insulated. In most cases, these are the locations where energy is lost the most often.

Is it better to insulate walls from the inside or outside?

Generally speaking, it is preferable to insulate the home from the exterior. To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the home’s outside (whether it is made of brick or vinyl) has a strong surface that is free of gaps and fractures.

Wrapping Things Up

We hope you have found this post to be informative and that it has demonstrated how to insulate interior walls without removing drywall. Always remember to check for studs before drilling any holes for your wiring or other installation components. Before you leave, have a look at some of our other posts, including: How to Cool a Bedroom in the Attic Is It True That Vinyl Siding Makes Your House Warmer?

Should You Insulate Your Interior Walls?

The 19th of July, 2019 Do you have difficulty sleeping because of noise? Are you looking for strategies to reduce the amount of money you spend on utilities? Do you have concerns about moisture accumulating in your home? Despite the fact that these difficulties appear to be unrelated, they all have a common solution: insulation. Many people are unaware that interior insulation is a panacea for a wide range of problems. The DFW Thermal team has put together this tutorial on why it is important to insulate interior walls; continue reading to find out more information!

The Advantages to Insulating Your Interior Walls

When it comes to insulating your internal walls, there are several benefits. The following are a few of the things that our clientele have said about us.

Sound Dampening

Interior wall insulation is popular among homeowners who want to create a sound barrier between different rooms. Although no amount of insulation can entirely soundproof a space, interior insulation may greatly minimize noise transmission.

Sound dampening in the walls of a bedroom is especially beneficial for people who have trouble sleeping. In addition, interior insulation can improve the privacy of rooms such as bathrooms by insulating them from the outside.

Energy Efficiency

Insulation for inside walls performs the same purposes as insulation for outer walls. In other words, it slows the pace at which heat is transferred from one area to another. Because of the lack of inside insulation, outside air will readily enter your home, raising and dropping the temperature of your rooms to uncomfortably high and low levels. Temperature changes will require your HVAC unit to work harder in order to get your home up to the pre-programmed temperature, so raising your utility bills.

Improved Moisture Control

In your house, moisture is produced by everyday activities such as showering, cooking, and washing. Depending on how much moisture condenses in your walls, it might cause mold, rot, mildew, and water stains in your home. Mold and mildew may be extremely dangerous to the health of your family. Insulating your internal walls can help to limit the amount of moisture that collects. You may attach vapor resistant membranes to your insulation, which will keep the temperature stable and avoid condensation.

Your Insulation Options for Interior Walls

When it comes to internal insulation, you have a variety of alternatives. If you have decided to repair, replace, or add internal insulation, consult with an insulation specialist to determine which type is the best fit for your needs and budget.

Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation can either be blown in or put in batts, depending on the application. This type of insulation has the advantage of being the most affordable, but it is difficult to apply a layer that is thick enough to be effective.

Cellulose Insulation

Cellulose insulation is a type of insulation that is blown in. It is made from recycled materials that have been chemically treated to make it resistant to mold, insects, and fire. It is environmentally friendly. Cellulose is the most environmentally friendly type of insulation available on the market.

Foam Insulation

Foam insulation is a relatively new type of insulation technology. Foam insulation has the appearance and feel of shaving cream. When it dries, however, it forms an almost impenetrable barrier to airflow, preventing it from entering.

Ready to insulate interior walls? Call DFW Thermal today!

We hope that this article has provided you with a better understanding of the benefits of inside insulation. When you are ready to begin the installation process, contact DFW Thermal. High-quality products and unmatched customer service are provided by our team of specialists to the DFW community. Call us at 214-731-3115 or use our online scheduling tool to make an appointment.

See also:  How To Measure Interior Doors

How to Insulate an Old House

For anyone who lives in a region where January temperatures are consistently below freezing, living in a house with inadequate insulation is a recipe for disaster. That was the situation faced by Christine Flynn and Liz Bagley, owners of the 1916 two-family house that was featured in Season 28 of This Old House, until TOH general contractor Tom Silva came along to help.

“People who live in houses built before WWII believe that there is nothing they can do to protect themselves from the cold,” Tom explains. “Either that, or they simply aren’t aware of how much more comfortable their home can be.”

Interior Wall Insulation in an Old House

Addition of insulation to the walls of a house, if the attic (or roof) is already well insulated, may be the most cost-effective method of lowering heating and cooling expenditures. The fact that many of the house’s walls were going to stay intact, as is the case with most remodeling projects, forced Tom to think about the best way to install the energy-saving material without destroying the whole structure—a process that would have blown the $250,000 renovation budget. His top insulation choice was polyicynene, which is a cream-colored liquid polyurethane that foams up and stiffens after it has been sprayed in place by professionals in areas where walls were left open, such as in newly renovated kitchens and bathrooms and in attic stud bays that had never been covered.

Tom used a slow-pour variant of the foam in the living room and part of the bedrooms.

What is the Best Type of Insulation for Interior Walls?

A homeowner wishing to take advantage of a remodeling to retrofit new or more insulation has a plethora of options, including plastics, fiberglass, shredded paper, even denim scraps and wool, all of which are available in a variety of forms. There are differences in the cost, efficiency (as measured by an R-value, which measures resistance to heat transmission), and amount of skill required to install each kind, of course. So, what is the most effective sort of wall insulation? This is the type of email Andre Desjarlais receives on a daily basis, and he says there is no simple solution to it.

However, depending on the site circumstances and budget, one type of insulation may perform better or may be easier to install than another.

Expanding Foam

This insulation, which is made of either open-cell or closed-cell polyurethane (a plastic) or a specific cement, is applied as soft foam or foamy liquid, filling all gaps and then stiffening once it has been set. It can only be applied by specialists, and it is more expensive than other solutions, but it is the most effective in plugging air leaks. Polyicynene, often known as open-cell polyurethane, is a low-density, spongy foam. It’s sprayed between exposed studs and expands to 100 times its original volume in a matter of seconds after being sprayed.

Closed-cell polyurethane foam expands to 30 times its original volume and hardens to form a very hard shell when dried.

It is necessary to use mesh across the studs to contain cementitious foam, which applies like shaving cream but hardens over time to a meringue consistency, in order to keep it contained.


Polyicynene provides around R-3.6 per inch of thickness; closed-cell polyurethane provides between R-6 and R-7; and cementitious foam provides approximately R-3.9 per inch of thickness.

Best used

When you have the ability to see beyond the immediate expense to long-term comfort.


Polyicynene has the potential to break existing walls or to leak out and discolor a floor surface. When polyurethane is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, it becomes unstable. Due to the fact that closed-cell polyurethane and cementitious foam are not flexible, gaps may appear between studs as they expand and compress.


If the wall is open, the cost of polyicynene and polyurethane is around $1.50 per square foot, including labor, and $2.25 per square foot if the wall is already in place. Depending on the density, cementitious foam might cost between $1.40 and $2 per square foot. Installers can also use a thin layer of foam to seal leaks, followed by a layer of less costly insulation to complete the job. *Please keep in mind that all pricing are estimates for 1 square foot in a 2×4 wall.


Fluffy blankets that come in large rolls or precut pads that are designed to fit between studs are both options. However, you can also buy ones manufactured from cotton (which is actually shredded denim remnants), mineral wool (which is formed by melting blast furnace slag or rocks such as basalt), and real sheep’s wool.


Fiberglass batts can range from R-3 to R-4.3 per inch of thickness; mineral wool provides approximately R-3.6 per inch; cotton provides approximately R-3.4 per inch; and wool provides approximately R-3.5 per inch.

Best used

In walls that have been taken down to the studs in a do-it-yourself project.


Insulation must be installed at the full loft height, not compressed. Making insulation less effective by stuffing it around pipes or leaving gaps in odd-shaped areas will reduce its effectiveness. Aside from that, the sharp fibers in fiberglass and mineral wool can irritate the skin, necessitating the use of protective clothing and goggles when working with it. Additionally, some brands contain a formaldehyde binder, which releases formaldehyde fumes over time. Cotton and wool are natural products that do not have these drawbacks, but they are more expensive and more difficult to come by—especially wool, which is only accessible on the Internet from Canadian wholesalers in some cases.


Uninstalled, basic fiberglass batts cost around 40 cents per square foot, while extra-dense batts cost about $1 per square foot. Mineral wool is approximately 40 cents per pound, cotton is approximately 60 cents per pound, and wool is the most expensive at $2.75 per pound.

Loose Fill

Dry particles of insulation are blasted into wall cavities through holes ranging in size from 1 to 212 inches in diameter. It may either be installed from the inside of the walls, which necessitates the repair of holes, or from the outside, which necessitates the removal of siding and drilling through the sheathing, increasing the expense of professional installation. There are three main types: fiberglass, which can be treated with formaldehyde (which is produced as a by-product of batt manufacturing) or left untreated; cellulose, which is composed of approximately 80% ground-up newsprint and 20% borate, a mineral added as a fire retardant; and mineral wool, which is composed of approximately 80% ground-up newsprint and 20% borate, a mineral added as a fire retardant.


When permitted to densely fill the space, fiberglass may provide as much as R-4 per inch; cellulose can provide between R-3.6 and R-3.8 per inch; and mineral wool can provide as much as R-2.7 per inch.

Best used

When money is limited, it may be necessary to add more insulation to the attic floor or to install additional insulation inside existing walls.


Cellulose is less expensive to make since it requires less energy, and it is also a more environmentally friendly option in many instances. The use of fiberglass or mineral wool, as opposed to cellulose, may be a better choice in wet or windy areas, and particularly in houses with wood siding, because they do not absorb moisture like cellulose does.


When blown in from the inside, cellulose and fiberglass cost around $1.20 per square foot installed; when blown in from the outside, the cost is approximately $2 per square foot installed. Priced uninstalled, they are approximately one-third of the cost; a homeowner who wishes to do a DIY installation can rent a blower for approximately $70 per day.

Sprayed-on Fiber

A type of loose fill that is only suited for stud walls that have not yet been drywalled or plastered, as opposed to other types. A professional installer mixes the same basic insulation materials with water and glue before spraying the mixture between studs with a hose, which helps to guarantee that all of the studs are covered. Furthermore, the glue reduces the likelihood of fibers settling.


Sprayed-on cellulose and fiberglass perform roughly as well as loose fill, while sprayed-on mineral wool performs significantly better than loose fill, providing an R-4.1 per inch greater performance than loose fill. Any spray-on insulation will perform better than loose fill at sealing air leaks.

Best used

Using open walls when you have a limited budget yet want a professional to handle the construction is a good option.


It is necessary to allow the insulation to cure for at least two days before covering it with drywall in order to prevent mildew from developing.


It costs approximately 50% more than loose fill.

Rigid Panels

Foam extruded polystyrene (XPS) or polyisocyanurate (PIC) boards (“iso board”). These panels can be installed on the exterior of a home, above the studs (which are normally a weak point in an insulation system), but beneath the siding, a technique that is particularly efficient in hot, humid regions since the boards act as an excellent vapor barrier as well. In colder areas, the boards can be installed inside the walls, where the moisture barrier will help to prevent warm air from leaving. Tom used to use polyisocyanurate panels in this manner before switching to spray foam insulation: he would build a 2×4 wall, insulate between the studs with batting (with the paper face removed), then cover the entire thing with foil-faced panels and seal them with foil tape before putting up wall board.

The combined R-value of the batts and board on the 2×4 wall was more than the R-value of the batts alone on a 2×6 wall, and he would gain a little amount of additional space in the room as a result of this.


Extruded polystyrene gives about R-5 per inch of thickness. The thermal resistance of foil-faced polyisocyanurate ranges from R-7.2 to R-8 per inch.

Best use

Adding insulation to a 2×4 wall during siding repair or an interior gut project is a common occurrence.


Interior boards must be covered with drywall that is at least 12 inches thick in order to comply with fire regulations. Polystyrene will degrade if exposed to sunlight for an extended period of time, thus it should not be kept out in the sun.


A sheet of 1-inch-thick expanded polystyrene foam measuring 4 by 8 feet costs around $10. A 2-inch-thick panel of foil-faced polyisocyanurate is available for a little less than $30 on the market.

Tom Silva’s Advice on Handling Half-Insulated Walls

“It is necessary to remove any existing insulation in the completed walls of your home if there is insufficient insulation to keep the cold out. This is because the old insulation can get in the way and reduce the efficiency of new insulation. Find out where you need to make improvements by hiring an energy auditor who uses an infrared camera, or by peering in behind electrical outlets or under trim pieces that you carefully remove from your home. You can cut off a horizontal band of drywall or plaster 12 to 16 inches wide and about halfway up the wall if you locate some insulation.

The loose fill or expanding foam may be inserted via the same hole, however you will need to drill additional holes along the top of the wall in order to finish the work.”

Where To Find It

Fiberglass A certainTeed Corp. is based in Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, and can be reached at 610-341-7000. CottonBonded Logic Inc. Chandler, AZ CottonBonded Logic Inc. Chandler, AZ Natural mineral woolRockwool Milton, ON Mineral wool Sheep’s WoolGood Shepherd Wool Insulation Rocky Mountain House, AB, Canada Sheep’s WoolGood Shepherd Wool Insulation Rocky Mountain House, AB, Canada

Loose fill

Cellulose Applegate Insulation Manufacturing Inc. Webberville, MI Applegate Insulation Manufacturing Inc. Nu-Wool Inc. Jenison, Michigan (800) 748-0128 Owens Corning manufactures fiberglass. 419-248-8000 Toledo, OH (Ohio) Fiberglass that has not been treated Johns Manville Corporation Denver, Colorado Mineral Wool is a type of wool that contains minerals. Delfino Insulation Co., Bohemia, Delfino Insulation Co., Bohemia, NY631-567-45495

Expanding Foam

PolyurethaneIcynene Mississauga, ON, Canada Icynene Mississauga, ON, Canada It is made of cementitious material and is available from AirKrete in Weedsport, New York at 315-834-6609 or at

Rigid foam

Polystyrene that has been extruded Pactiv Corporation Lake Forest, IL Pactiv Corporation Lake Forest, IL Dow Midland, MI Polyisocyanurate Dow Midland, MI Polyisocyanurate Dow Midland, MI Polyisocyanurate Dow Midland, MI Polyisocyanurate Dow Midland, MI Insulation contractors are those that specialize in insulation.

Anderson Insulation Abington, Massachusetts Anderson Insulation Abington, Massachusetts 800-472-1717 Federal Conservation Group Amityville, New York (800) 675-1660 Federal Conservation Group The phone number for SDI Insulation Inc. Contractors in the fields of insulation and drywall Phone: (785-862-0554) Topeka, Kansas Southland Insulators, Inc., Manassas, VA Andre Desjarlais Building Envelopes Program at Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Oak Ridge, Tennessee (865-574-4160 is grateful for his assistance.

Do you require home security for your family? Take a look at our home warranty information.

  • What Is a Home Warranty
  • What Does a Residential Service Contract Cover
  • USAA Home Warranty Review
  • Samsung Appliance Extended Warranty Review
  • Rheem Water Heater Warranty Review
  • What Is a Home Warranty
See also:  How To Build An Interior Door Frame

How to Add Insulation to Walls That Are Closed

Insulation is included in most contemporary houses. Energy-efficient homes are now considered standard practice since they may reduce energy use all year round. However, the walls of older homes built before the 1970s, and even as late as the 1980s, are frequently poorly insulated from the elements. Uncomfortable and expensive energy bills were a result of poorly insulated closed walls. A lack of wall insulation results in an overworked heating or cooling system that works tirelessly to circulate hot or cold air, but is unable to do so because the home envelope is not cooperating.

As a result, permanently connected wallboard must be cut away, drywall screws or nails must be individually removed, R-13 or larger roll insulation must be installed, and new drywall must be hung, finished, and painted.

Is it possible to place insulation behind closed doors and windows?

Injection Foam

Foam insulation has several benefits over fiberglass insulation, the most notable of which is that it is more resistant to mold and mildew than loose-fill, batt, or roll fiberglass insulation. In contrast to blown-in cellulose, its powerful expansion capabilities allow it to push its way into tough spots, such as around cables, boxes, protruding nails and screws, and other areas where gravity-fed cellulose tends to get hung up, such as around electrical outlets. Foam injection insulation is comparable to the individual cans of foam insulation that you can purchase at your local home center, but it is produced on a much bigger and considerably more efficient scale.

When it comes to avoiding wall damage during a retrofit, foam insulation is definitely the best option.

  • Enables workers to reach tough spots that blown-in insulation may otherwise miss
  • Moisture-resistant
  • The injection foam procedure leaves holes in the walls that must be filled, fixed, and painted when they have been completed.


Tissue-based insulation is made from recycled paper and is used to fill the voids of walls and ceilings in homes and buildings. Boric acid is the primary component responsible for its effectiveness. Telephone books, tax forms, and newspapers, all shredded and recycled, contribute to the production of fire-resistant cellulose insulation, which is treated with boric acid for increased fire resistance. It is necessary to drill holes into the inside or outside of each wall cavity in order to inject blow-in cellulose.

It is not suggested that you install blown-in wall insulation on your own.


  • Because of the competition, costs for this form of insulation are kept low. In part due to the fact that cellulose settles, it tends to perform an excellent job of filling in empty areas underneath the insulation over time.
  • It has a tendency to settle, creating hollow areas above the cellulose
  • Wires, boxes, plaster keys, and spider webs are all examples of inner-wall impediments that can be used as hooks. It is necessary to cut holes in the walls.


It is disputed whether or not to retrofit wall insulation since there is no single proper solution for all homes or for all homeowners. Only by conducting a cost-benefit analysis in relation to your specific situation will you be able to arrive at the best decision. At times, the cost of installing insulation may be more than the cost of energy required to heat or cool the building. While uninsulated walls are never a good idea from an environmental aspect, they may occasionally be more cost-effective than the alternative, which is to remove all of the drywall, insulate, reinstall drywall, and paint again.

In recent years, a revolutionary technology known as BIBS has been developed to assist bridge the gap between injected insulation and roll insulation.

On open walls, a fabric sheath or net is attached to the studs, creating a type of cage that contains blown-in fiberglass insulation (rather than cellulose insulation), which can be in the form of pellets or other forms.

It is much more effective at preventing air infiltration than loose-fill insulation because it forms a tight, dense, seamless blanket, as opposed to loose-fill insulation. Pros

  • It does not come to rest. When you first fill the container, the volume will remain at that level. Certified BIBS materials do not absorb moisture, preventing the formation of mold and mildew.
  • BIBS is a highly specialized system that is not widely available
  • However, it is becoming more widely available. BIBS is not a do-it-yourself method
  • Instead, it is a collaborative effort.


The Blow-In Blanket Technology (BIBS) is a patented system developed by Service Partners LLC that certifies a limited number of insulating materials from various manufacturers for use with the BIBS.

Roll Insulation

Opening up drywall to insert fiberglass or rock wool insulation has its advantages, the most notable of which is its lower cost when compared to other methods. Pros

  • Ensures that the greatest amount of wall cavity coverage is achieved in cavities that are not blocked
  • It is rather inexpensive. a do-it-yourself undertaking There are only a few simple tools involved.
  • A mess
  • A labor-intensive process Paint that contains lead might pose a health risk if the walls are coated with lead-based paint.


Insulation is a house renovation that is a perpetually beneficial investment. It provides suitable living conditions, saves you money on heating and cooling expenditures, and even acts as a sound barrier within your house. Insulation is a material that is simple to work with. It does not need extreme physical power or exceptional technique. As long as you trim around windows, door frames, electrical outlets, and plumbing, you shouldn’t have to worry about squeezing the rolls or batts in between the studs.

Insulation R-Value

It is critical to understand the R-value of insulation, which refers to its resistance to heat movement, before purchasing for it. Generally speaking, the bigger the R-value, the better the resistance to heat loss. The Federal Trade Commission requires that each package of insulation be labeled with the product’s particular R-value as well as any health and safety concerns that should be followed. Which R-value is the most appropriate for you? Many factors influence this, including where you live and what sort of heating system you have in place.

On its website, the United States Department of Energy has prepared a zone map with matching R-values to assist homeowners in determining the minimum insulation levels required.

Kinds of Insulation

Because it is blasted through a tube and blown into space, loose fill is particularly well suited for unfinished attics and difficult-to-reach sections of the home. Loose-fill insulation cannot be used in conjunction with open walls because the insulation must be contained in order for it to remain in position.

Fiberglass Rolls and Batts

In terms of form, blanket-type insulation is available in two different sizes: rolls and batts, both of which are suitable for insulating interior open-stud walls. Both rolls and batts (a rectangle of insulation that is delivered flat in packages) are commonly available in lengths of 8 feet, which corresponds to a conventional ceiling height. To ensure that it fits between studs, which are normally 16 or 24 inches apart, make sure to measure the area between each stud prior to purchasing the insulation.

Insulation Facing and Vapor Barriers

Insulation batts and rolls are supplied with or without face covers, depending on the application. Brown Kraft paper is a typical choice for a face material. In unfinished rooms such as a garage or basement, fire-retardant foil is occasionally used to cover batts that would be exposed due to the lack of a finish. When you buy insulation, it will be wrapped in plastic to shield you from the scratchy fibers, which is an excellent option for first-time buyers. In its original function as a vapor barrier, insulation facing is meant to prevent interior moisture from moving into wall cavities, where it can lead to mold development and other issues.

Typically, the face is fixed on the side of the wall that will be warm in the winter. As a result, in most climates, the facing is installed on the inner side of the wall frame, where it comes into touch with the backside of the sheetrock.

Safety Considerations

When working with fiberglass insulation, always wear tight-fitting breathing protection and safety goggles since the material can irritate the eyes and airways if not protected properly. Wearing long sleeves, trousers, and gloves can provide you with additional comfort since they will keep the scratchy fibers off your skin, where they might produce a rash.


  • If you want to figure out how much rolled or batted insulation to buy, measure from floor to ceiling and multiply that figure by the number of spaces between the studs you need to fill. That is the entirety of your ancestry. It’s important to measure the distance between studs since this will define the breadth of the insulation you’ll need. When calculating the number of rolls or batts you’ll need, divide the total lineage by the length of the batt (which is typically 8 feet) or roll (which may be a variety of lengths) you’ll be using

Clean Walls

  • Using a hammer and screwdriver, clear up the spaces between the studs in the wall structure. Remove any nails, unneeded cables, and screws from the area. Clean the walls completely with the shop vacuum, eliminating spider webs, dust, and other debris

Unroll Insulation

  • Expansion of the fiberglass insulation or batts should be done on a clean floor to allow them to expand.

Trim Insulation

  • To cut insulation from rolls, start with the edge of the roll at the top of the space you’re filling and work your way down, cutting with a utility knife as you go. If you’re working with loose-fill insulation, you can cut it with a utility knife after it’s been rolled out on the floor to get the length you want. Assuming you’re dealing with batts, you’ll most likely have 8-foot lengths and won’t need to clip any of them for length.

Push Insulation Into Wall Cavity

  • Place a gentle press of insulation between the wall studs, being sure to trim around electrical outlets.

Staple Insulation Edges

  1. Faced insulation, on the other hand, has stapling flanges—extra paper facing along each side edge that allows you to staple it to the side of the wall stud. Snug-fitting insulation will stay in place without fastening, but faced insulation with stapling flanges will stay in place when fastened to the side of the wall stud. Given that open-faced insulation cannot be stapled, it must be installed as tightly as possible in order for friction to hold it in place.

Tips For Installing Insulation in Walls

  • Never compress the insulation in any manner. However, while it appears like eliminating the air between the fibers would have little influence on its efficacy, in reality, you would be substantially reducing the R-value. To get the best performance out of a roll or batt, it must be trimmed to the proper length and never folded over itself. Launder your work clothing in a separate load from your usual wash and run the rinse cycle twice
  • After you’re through, hang them to dry.

The Advantages of Insulating Interior Walls

A minimum quantity of insulation in a house’s external walls and ceiling is required by most construction rules in most regions. Interior wall insulation is less prevalent than exterior wall insulation, despite the fact that it provides homes with some energy-saving and sound-dampening benefits. Even while it’s better to insulate all of the walls during new construction, it’s feasible to add insulation to existing walls without having to knock down drywall.

Sound Dampening

Sound transmission between rooms can be reduced to some extent by insulating internal walls. A conventional interior wall does not create a totally soundproof barrier since sound can flow through wood frame as well as through the insulation. Home theaters, for example, require a double-framed wall constructed of offset studs in addition to insulation in order to provide enough sound dampening.

Energy Efficiency

Interior wall insulation can help homeowners save money on their power bills, especially if their property contains rooms that are not used all year. Heating and cooling three-season rooms, underused guest rooms, and even storage rooms may be quite costly. Heat transmission will be reduced by insulating the inside walls. Even if sealing off rooms when they are not in use can save you money, if you live in a place with dramatic temperature changes, it is not always a smart idea to forego heating and cooling completely until absolutely necessary.

Party Walls

Known as “party walls,” the interior walls that divide individual living areas in duplexes or flats are typically insulated, not only to minimize sound and temperature transmission, but also to prevent the spread of fire from one side of the wall to the other side of the wall. To ensure that the insulation is fire resistant, it must be used in conjunction with fire-resistant drywall and tape as well as the cement used to build the wall. Be sure to check with your local building inspector before constructing or changing a party wall.

Insulation Choices

Fiberglass batt insulation is the least priced and most do-it-yourself-friendly of the insulation options available to consumers. When building a new structure, use unfaced batts and install them between wall studs without compressing the batts themselves. The batts are available in three different widths to accommodate standard 16-, 19.2-, and 24-inch stud spacing.

Expandable foam insulation is available, but it must be installed by a qualified specialist. For existing walls, blown-in cellulose can be used as a filler. In order to repair the wall, it is necessary to drill holes at the top of each stud spacing and fix the holes subsequently.

Should You Insulate Interior Walls?

DonNichols / DonNichols / However, while insulating inside walls isn’t strictly required, it does provide a lot of advantages. It reduces the likelihood of moisture problems, reduces noise, increases energy efficiency, protects against fire, and reduces the risk of fire.

See also:  How To Design A House Interior

Energy Efficiency

Image courtesy of / fizkes Adding insulation to internal walls is the next best choice if you are unable to add insulation to your outside walls owing to local building requirements or limits on alterations to historic houses or buildings. Interior insulation, while not as good at controlling temperature as outside insulation, does help to maintain consistent inside temperatures, hence reducing your demand for heating and cooling. When compared to external wall insulation, it is approximately half the price to install, so you may still receive a fair return on your investment.

This assists in keeping your heated or cooled air where it belongs.

Noise Reduction

Images courtesy of and Bilanol One of the most significant advantages of adequate interior insulation is the reduction of noise. Sound waves, particularly high-frequency waves, are dampened by insulation, resulting in a reduction in the amount of noise that travels through the walls from one room to the next. Addition of insulation to the walls of your house, particularly if you have thin exterior walls or a big, active family, may help to create a more soothing environment for everyone.

You should think about adding internal insulation to your home office, gaming room, kid’s playroom, and even the bathroom if you have the space.

However, they are more dense than normal thermal insulation batts, which are often constructed of mineral wool, fiberglass, or polyester.

Fire Protection

BanksPhotos from / If a fire breaks out in your home, the speed with which it spreads can mean the difference between life and death for you and your family members. Fire-resistant wall insulation slows the spread of flames, allowing the fire to be restricted to a smaller area, giving you more time to flee the building. It also helps to keep your house and valuables safe against more serious harm down the road. Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material that is frequently used as a fire stop because of its 1- to 3-hour fire rating.

Fiberglass and cellulose treated with fire retardants are both noncombustible materials, but they can still spread a small amount of flames and produce a small amount of smoke if ignited.

Loose-fill (also known as blown-in) is the safer option.

The vast majority of home insulation materials fulfill Class 1 fire rating criteria, which is the highest possible rating available.

This indicates a flame spread of no more than 25 and a smoke development of no more than 450. The lower the number, the less flame spread and smoke will be produced by the fire.

Moisture Control

Photograph by diane39 on Typical household activities such as showering and cooking introduce heat and humidity into the air. It is possible for condensation to form inside a wall when this warm, humid air comes into contact with a wall that adjoins a cool room. Mildew and rot can develop as a result, causing damage to your walls as well as to your health. Because it slows heat transmission and regulates temperatures, good inside wall insulation helps to lessen the danger of moisture problems in the home.

When it comes to cold climates and mixed-humid climates, these plastic layers are more important.

Unlike vapor barriers, they do not completely prevent moisture from entering the building.

It is also dependent on your climate to determine the specific type of VCL that will perform best for you and the appropriate position in your wall.

Options for Interior Insulation

Photo courtesy of and Fotofenix If you’re still in the process of building your house, both batt insulation and loose-fill insulation will be equally simple to put in place. For example, if you want to add insulation to the interior walls of your home, you’ll need to decide whether or not you’re willing to open up the walls. Loose-fill insulation is available in the most popular types of insulation, including fiberglass, cellulose, and mineral wool, among others. There is no need to rip the wall apart because it can be blasted into it through a 1/2 to 2 inch hole without causing structural damage.

Using injection spray foam insulation to insulate the enclosed spaces of your existing internal walls is yet another alternative to consider.

It differs from standard spray foam insulation, which can only be applied to open walls and cannot be applied to closed walls.

By moderating temperatures, limiting noise levels, and lowering your house’s fire risk, interior wall insulation helps to make your home a more pleasant and safe environment.

Can You Insulate Existing Interior Walls?

Are you wanting to quiet down your home or eradicate scents from one room to the next? Adding insulation to the internal walls of your home might be beneficial. Typically, when people think of insulating walls, they think of the external walls of their homes, which helps to keep them comfortable. RetroFoam of Michigan has insulated hundreds of homes around the lower peninsula using foam insulation, with some of these projects involving the insulation of interior walls as well as exterior walls.

All things considered, it is possible to insulate existing interior walls. Consider how and why this procedure is carried out in the next section.

Insulating Finished Interior Walls

You want to add insulation to your finished interior walls, but you’re not sure how to go about it once the drywall is up. What is the best method for insulating interior walls once the drywall is up? You may install injection foam from the interior of your home, eliminating the need to remove any existing drywall or other building materials. The teams will drill holes into the stud cavities of the wall so that the injection foam may be placed within them later on. The staff will clean up any mess that has been made and apply a rough patch to the areas where the holes have been drilled into the wall.

It is possible to use open cell spray foam in the event that the drywall has been removed and the wall hollow has been exposed in this case.

Why Insulate Interior Walls?

There are two primary reasons to insulate the inner walls of your home: to reduce sound and odours, and to increase energy efficiency. For example, if your media room is adjacent to the master bedroom and your teenager enjoys loud music, or if you’d prefer a bit more solitude in the bathroom, let’s talk about how to reduce sound in your house. It’s critical to understand the difference between soundproofing and sound dampening in a building. The term “soundproofed” refers to a room that has been rendered resistant to sound.

  1. Installing injection foam insulation into your walls may minimize sound transmission by up to 80 percent, depending on the thickness of the foam used.
  2. In order to soundproof a room in your home completely, you will need more than just basic insulation to accomplish your goal.
  3. Let us now discuss the sense of smell.
  4. Assuming your garage is connected to your home, all of those odors will seep into your home through the common wall.
  5. As a result, the injection foam insulation creates an air barrier that keeps the emissions from the garage out of your home, as well as any allergens from entering.

Adding Insulation to Interior Walls

Now that you are aware that it is possible to insulate your interior walls, you may have more questions regarding foam insulation.

Here are some answers. If you’re interested in learning more about sound dampening, air sealing, and how to make your home more comfortable, visit the Learning Center section of our website.

About Amanda Ringler

Amanda has previously worked as a breaking news and crime reporter, television news producer, and editor in Flint and Detroit, as well as in other cities. Throughout her journalistic career, she has received several accolades from organizations such as the Society of Professional Journalists – Detroit Chapter and the Michigan Press Association. Amanda joins the RetroFoam of Michigan team, where she draws on her background as a journalist to create content that educates homeowners about the benefits of foam insulation.

She also enjoys knitting, creating art, cooking, and entertaining friends and family by having dinner and a movie night at her home.

How to Insulate Interior Walls That Are Already Drywalled

Home-Diy Insulating a wall that has been left open due to new construction or remodeling is a straightforward process. Insulating a completed wall is far more difficult, but it may be worthwhile if your walls lack internal insulation and your heating expenditures are over the sky. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); then this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(,; )(,; )(,; (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> Interior walls that have already been drywalled should be insulated.

To fill the wall with loose insulation, it is preferable to create holes between each stud and use an insulation blower to blast the insulation into the holes.

  • Stud finder with an electronic component
  • A tape measure
  • A pencil
  • A ruler Insulation blower with loose insulation (see the instructions for the quantity of insulation required for your wall)
  • Rented insulation blower with loose insulation Drill
  • For the drill, choose a hole saw bit that is somewhat bigger than the hose on the insulation blower
  • A number of different cloths
  • Dust masks are recommended. drywall tape with a mesh pattern
  • Joint compound for drywall joints that has been pre-mixed
  • Drywall knife
  • Drywall sandpaper A personal helper


Drop ceilings should be removed, and holes should be made above them, so that you do not have to repaint any of the walls. Alternatively, if your external siding is vinyl and can be readily removed, try removing the strip and blowing insulation into the house from the outside before replacing the siding.


Do not drill holes near electrical fixtures or other potentially dangerous areas.

  1. Use your stud-finder to identify all of the studs in the wall that will be insulated before you begin the insulation process. The distance between the studs will most likely be 16 inches. Make pencil markings 6 inches down from the ceiling, in the center of the space between them. Cut off a circle at each mark with your hole saw. Continue this process all the way across the wall until you have pencil markings between every pair of studs
  2. The opening should be somewhat bigger in diameter than the hose on your rental blower, but not much larger. Save each cutting piece, making a notation on the back of each one to indicate which hole it should be inserted into. Don’t forget to put on your dust mask. Load your blower with loose insulation to keep it running smoothly. Insert the hose’s end into the first hole by guiding it in. To keep it sealed, wrap a towel around it. Request that your assistance switch on the machine for you. Continue to hold the hose in place until the insulation is blown into the wall. Once you see that the insulation is backing up to the hose and the machine is generating a higher-pitched noise (similar to that of a clogged vacuum cleaner), instruct your assistance to shut it off. Pull the hose out of the hole and go to the next one. The technique should be repeated until all of the areas have been filled with insulation. In order to patch the initial hole, shove extra loose insulation into the hole until it is snugly packed within. Incorporate your previously-saved circular wall cutout piece back into the hole, allowing the packed insulation to act as a support from behind. Strips of mesh drywall tape should be applied over the cutting piece, encompassing the circle as well as a few inches of surrounding wall. Spread joint compound over the mesh using a drywall knife to ensure even coverage. Repeat the process for each of the holes, and allow the drywall compound to dry for a full day. Sand it, reapply a second coat, and then sand it again the following day to finish it. Retouch the paint on the wall

The Drip Cap

  • Insulating a wall that has been left open due to new construction or remodeling is a straightforward process. Finished wall insulation is far more difficult, but it may be worthwhile if your walls lack interior insulation and your heating expenditures are over the sky. Cut a circle out of each mark using your hole saw using your hole saw
  • Using loose insulation, fill your blower with air. Wrapping it with a cloth will help to keep it sealed. Instruct your aide to switch on the computer.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.