How To Install Ledgestone On Interior Wall

Help! I Want to Install Stacked Stone Panels But I Have Drywall!

For those of you who are bored of staring at plain, uninteresting walls in your home, we have a solution for you: piled stone! Incorporating stone into your home is a simple way to give any room in your house more dimension and character. However, you may be asking if stacked stone may be laid straight on drywall. The answer is yes. However, even though stacked stone should not be placed directly to drywall, there are a few options that will still allow you to get the desired aesthetic without damaging the drywall.

Why Can’t You Install Stacked Stone on Drywall?

Although installing stacked stone tile is not a difficult undertaking, if you do not have the right understanding about how to do it effectively, you may wind up causing damage to the walls in your home (leading to a costly repair). A direct bond with the drywall is not possible due to the weight of the piled stone, which is too heavy. It will not be able to sustain its own weight correctly. Even if everything goes up successfully and appears to be in good condition, you run the risk of having to deal with a pricey drywall repair if the stone panels wind up dragging the wall down.

It’s not worth the bother or the hassles to go through with it.

How Can You Install Stacked Stone Tile with Drywall?

The installation of stone wall tile is still doable; all that is required is a decision between one of two possible solutions. One alternative is to totally remove the drywall in the area where you want the piled stone to go and replace it with a cement board. This is the most expensive option. The cement board is strong enough to support the weight of the stone veneers on each side of it. Another alternative is to place a cement board on top of the drywall to provide additional strength (instead of removing the drywall first).

Installing Stone Wall Tile In Your Home

You may simply build a stone wall on the interior or exterior of your home if you have access to the properledger panels and equipment. From house entryways to stacked stone backsplashes, the installation procedure is mostly the same — and we’re here to guide you through it step by step so you can feel secure throughout the process.

Determine How Much Product You Need

In certain cases, depending on where you’re placing the stone panels, you may need to have both L-shaped panels to perfectly fit around corners and flat panels for all other portions of the structure. The parts include an interlocking feature that lets you to slot them together easily, making installation a breeze. Before you begin, you must have a clear understanding of how much product you will require to perform the job. This is important because you don’t want to go halfway through a project only to learn that you don’t have enough ledger panels to complete it.

Take the height and breadth of each wall and multiply them together, then combine the products together to obtain an approximation of how many panels you’ll need.

No matter what figure you come up with, you should always purchase 10 percent more than you think you will need to ensure you have enough panels to suit all of the interlocking cuts in your project’s final layout.

Prepare the Space

To begin the installation process, you must first prepare the floor to ensure that the stone veneers do not cause any harm. Drop cloths should be laid along the ground in front of the wall to minimize gapping between garments and to keep the flooring from becoming exposed. Once the flooring have been coated, you can begin preparing the drywall to guarantee that it will be able to take the weight of the stacked stone wall when it is completed. Before you can connect the stone tiles, you must first clean the ways to ensure that there is no remaining dust or debris that might weaken the bond.

For added durability, you should use a backer board that is secured to the wall with backer board screws.

Organize Your Stacked Stone Panels

Due to the large number of panels to adhere to, it is not advisable to jump straight in and begin putting them to the wall right away. Beginning with the stone panel pieces, arrange them on the floor immediately in front of the project to help you see where everything will go. As a result of the fact that the wall is composed of natural-looking stone, no two pieces will be similar. It is possible to simulate how the tiles will appear on the wall and get an equal balance of tones and colors along the whole wall by arranging them beforehand.

Install the Stacked Stone

As soon as you’ve settled on the placement of the stone panels on the floor in front of you, it’s time to start attaching the stone panels to the wall, starting with the bottom row and working your way up the wall. It is critical to ensure that the initial row of tiles is level when it is set along the perimeter wall; the rest of the tile placement will be determined by how effectively the first row was installed. Once the first row of paneling is leveled and set, you may proceed to finish installing the remainder of the paneling, making cuts as needed and changing the panel sizes as required to ensure that everything fits precisely in the area.

Continue in this manner, row by row, until you have a magnificent stone wall that will enhance the appearance of any room in your home.

How to Install Stacked Stone Veneer Wall Tiles

Tools and materials are required. When it comes to installing natural stone tiles, a high-quality brick or tile wet saw is essential. Tilting blades are optional for angled cuts, such as 45 degrees, and may be used to make mitered corners or other slanted parts as needed if necessary. In order to fit stone around minor protrusions in the wall, such as pipes, steelwork, and so on, an angle grinder can be used to cut the stone at an angle. Additional tools will be necessary for the installation of Norstone Products, including: a steel trowel, a notched trowel, a scraper, a stiff wire brush, a masonry brush, a big sponge, and polymer modified tile thinset, among others.

  1. No matter what type of masonry or cementitious surface is being used, Norstone products may be put over it.
  3. Because the weight of the product will vary from 7 pounds per sq ft to 12.5 lbs per sq ft, the substrate and the wall must be structurally capable of sustaining the weight of the product.
  4. We recommend that the board be bonded and attached to the frame, with screws that are at least 2 inches long and placed at 24-inch intervals, and that a good quality mastic type adhesive be used to cover the whole frame where contact with the cement board is made.

This job should only be carried out by a qualified and licensed builder in order to assure safety, strength, and long-term fixation.

Installing Norstone

Each product should be thoroughly inspected and cleaned to ensure that it is free of dirt, sand, or other loose particles. When it is essential, thoroughly wash them. If the back of the product is dry, dampen it with a moist sponge first, but do not flood it with water. Because the stone isn’t able to absorb moisture from the glue, the adhesive may cure naturally and more effectively, resulting in a stronger connection. ANSI 118.4 and 118.11 adhesion standards will be met or exceeded by the polymer modified tile thinset recommended for use with Norstone products.

  • Tile thinsets are available for both interior-only and interior-and-exterior applications; thus, it is critical to select a thinset that meets the needs of your particular installation.
  • When installing natural stone tiles, it is important to start with a level line at the bottom of the wall so that the level remains consistent as you work your way up the wall.
  • When installing Norstone products, use a large amount of the polymer modified tile thinset advised by the manufacturer and apply it to the back of each tile as well as to the wall surface.
  • As a result of applying adhesive to the back of each tile, as well as to the wall, you can assure that your tile has the best possible adherence to your wall surface since all gaps, cavities, and fractures have been filled.
  • Incorporate each rock panel into the adhesive by pressing it into it and turning it slightly to force part of the thinset to come out freely.
  • Keep in mind that tight joints will give your project a professional appearance.
  • During the installation process, it is critical that the product’s installation pattern be properly followed.

The panels should not be “stacked” one on top of the other in a single line along the wall, since this will cause the panels to crack.

Working with Corners

Rock PanelsXL Rock Panels are large rock panels that are available in a variety of sizes. Outside corner pieces are offered in a two-part finger-jointed design that allows for easy installation. Corner units have the most seamless appearance possible, need no specific skills or tools, and can be installed in a short amount of time, resulting in significant savings in onsite labor expenses. Miter cutting field units on site is an alternative method of producing outside corners or corners that are not 90 degrees.

  • To cut at the mark with the saw at a zero-degree angle, make a straight cut with no tilt.
  • Once the panel has been cut, inspect it to ensure that it creates a precise 90-degree corner.
  • Use only one panel to construct a corner; using two distinct panels will result in the color, texture, and thickness not matching as desired.
  • With a tilting wet saw, it is simple to cut inside miters, which are cuts where the stone folds into itself, on the job site.
  • The Lynia IL Tile product is available in a variety of configurations for dealing with the product’s outer corners, including the following: In order to offer an exterior corner definition, an aluminum or stainless steel trim piece may be employed.
  • A second alternative is to use strips of Lynia that are the same lengths and widths as the tile units and place them parallel to and on both sides of the outer corner to produce a border from which tile units may be cut and put against the border.
See also:  How Many Years Of College To Be An Interior Designer

Good Moisture Management

Natural stone is a good option of construction material for every area and temperature, whether it is used inside or outside, near to or entirely submerged in water, in the desert or in the polar ice caps. Following are some of the settings where certain goods and methods should be followed, as detailed below: It is vital that a waterproofing membrane that meets or exceeds the specifications set out by ANSI 118.10118.12 be put between the substrate and the tile adhesive in order to produce a waterproof barrier in moisture-rich environments.

Norstone natural stone products will not be harmed by the typical freezing and thawing of the environment to which they are exposed; however, the same cannot be stated for the substrate to which they are placed in freezing or thawing climates.

To learn more about your substrate and the many waterproofing options available for your installation, please consult Norstone’s product installation manuals and instructions.


Clean water and a stiff brush can be used to remove excess debris and film off the surface of the water. It is critical not to allow thinset to dry on the stone’s surface after it has been applied. Remove it before it has a chance to solidify. WARNING: Do not use acid wash on stone because it has been shown to have a negative effect on the stone and can cause staining, etching, and rusting, among other things.

Sealing the stone

Natural stone should only be coated with a penetrating, water-based sealer after it has been allowed to cure completely, which typically takes 4 weeks for interior work. When using any sealer, make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommendations carefully. Some sealers also have the added benefit of repelling stains, making it simpler to keep sealed stone clean and maintain than unsealed stone. Always test a sealer on a small sample of stone or an off-cut before applying it to the entire application to ensure that any color enhancing and shine attributes of the sealer are compatible with the intended outcome before applying it to the entire application.

The amount of exposure and other criteria, such as climate and other environmental conditions, will determine whether or not this is necessary.

Inquire with your Norstone salesperson to determine whether or not sealing is necessary for your project.


+ Ensure that the application is structurally sound and that an appropriate substrate, such as cement board, has been prepared. + Address waterproofing / moisture management issues through the use of roll on or sheet membrane materials, if necessary for the application. + To guarantee maximum adherence, use a tile thinset that meets or exceeds the adhesion criteria established by ANSI 118.4 and 118.11, and apply a liberal amount of thinset to the back of each tile and the wall surface. Check to see that the bottom row is level and parallel to the floor.

  • + In order to minimize unattractive gaps between the Rock Panels, employ spacers to provide regular grout lines between the Lynia IL Tiles.
  • + Clean the installation and, if necessary, seal the stone with a penetrating natural stone sealer that penetrates the stone.
  • In no way does it claim to be all-inclusive or complete.
  • It is recommended that you hire a professional installer.

Norstone rock panels can be erected by the majority of home handymen, even those with very rudimentary experience of construction and building. We highly advise that Norstone products be installed by licensed craftsmen or contractors who are experienced in their field.

How to Install Ledge Stones: The Complete Guide

The entrance is made of natural ledge stone. This is visible on grand entryway, columns, internal walls, and external walls, among other things. Natural ledgestones give the house an old-world feel with worn textures and an old-world aspect. Natural ledge stone veneeris a wonderful choice for adding a rustic feel to a wall or ceiling. An earth tone stone wall may be created by using a variety of colors such as brown, buff, black, and other similar earth tones. Natural ledge stones may be difficult to get and may be difficult to transport.

  1. Manufacturing ledge stones have become a highly popular alternative due to its ease of installation, less weight, and large range of color possibilities.
  2. There are just a few well-known names in the produced stone veneer industry.
  3. Each of these firms manufactures ledge stones in a variety of color combinations.
  4. It is my intention in this essay to walk you through the process of creating a gorgeous stone wall or arched door out of ledge stones and ledge stone veneers.
  5. If you would want to learn more about how to install realstone panels, please visit this page.
  6. If the area contains corners, the length of the area must be specified in linear feet.
  7. Entrance with natural ledge stone in Miami, Florida.
  8. You will have a better view of the stones in this manner, which will help you to select the stones that are the appropriate size and color for the wall.
Installing exterior ledge stones Installing exterior ledge stones

Here’s a brief tip. If you are doing your own ledge stone installation, you should decide how you want the joints to look. Tight fitting or with a 12-inch mortar joint are both options.

Using our current example, we have put the ledge stones in a snug fitting manner. One of the images below displays an arched entryway that required framing to fit the new ledges stone veneers. Start with the center stone and work your way out to both sides, starting with the first stone.

Framing arch for ledge stones Installing ledge stones on arch finished ledge stones on arch

In order to install the stones, you must first apply a bonding agent to the area where you want them to be placed. Make use of a basic paint tray and a paint roller to apply the bonding compound. …. The blue substance visible at the top of the second photo.

Important Note!

Pouring water on the stones and applying thin-set mixed with mortar on the back of the cultured stone and on the area where it will be fitted will provide the strongest adhesion possible to the wall. In this way, you can be certain that the ledge stone will attach to the wall properly and will truly remain in place for many years to come. For example, as seen in the figure above, if the mortar is too dry, the stone will simply pop off the wall since the mortar does not produce enough suction.

It’s similar to when your boots are sucked out from under your feet when you’re caught in muddy ruts.

Make your mortar and pestle into the consistency of peanut butter.

Stacked Stone Veneers. Direct From the factory!

If you are installing cultured ledge stones on an arched area, you will need to make sure that the ledge stones are installed on both sides of the entrance before proceeding. It is rather simple, however you may need to make some adjustments. The stones in our specimen were around twelve inches in length on each sides. If you decide to put your own stones, make an effort to vary the sizes of the stones as well as the seams between them. Additionally, being familiar with the appropriate color variations of cultured stones is a good idea.

  • If anything doesn’t seem right, modify it; but, if the installation is attractive to the eye, keep working on it until it does.
  • Unfortunately, I do not have a photograph of the frames, but I hope to be able to paint a painting of them.
  • To easily bend the plywood to the curvature of the arches, cut a series of 1/8″ incisions into the sheet to make it more flexible.
  • The thick consistency of the mortar, along with the thinset, will aid in keeping the stones in place throughout the setting process.
After securing the frames with the 2×4 woods you can start the installation of the ledge stones.

The stones should be placed at a 45-degree angle to begin with, and as they progress towards the middle of the arch, they should become more straight. If you’re putting stone in an archway, be sure you know where the middle of the arch is. This will not only allow you to end with your center piece keystone in the proper location, but it will also let you to determine the proper angle at which the stones should be placed. Installing a cultured stone plate around light fixtures on entryways and external cladding can enhance the appearance of the electrical light while also making the installation process more straightforward.

  • It’s an excellent fit, and it makes installation a bit simpler because of that.
  • Using a blend of 20 percent fieldstone and 80 percent ledge stone would give a beautiful rustic appearance.
  • Installing your ledge stones on the bottom of the house may necessitate including a cap or a wainscot sill to cover the top row of ledge stones to complete the look.
  • Installing this software is a hard, arduous, and time-consuming process.
  • Accomplish you want to do it on your own?
  • Learn how to install any type of stone veneer on this website, complete with installation instructions, time-saving suggestions, and amusing videos.
  • We will give you with the high-quality service you deserve at a competitive price.
  • Before we begin the work, we will inform you of the whole amount up front.

Discover how our Miami cultured stone installers may assist you in saving money on your next cultured stone project by reading the following: MortonStones is qualified to assist you with the installation of any sorts of manufactured stones for your home or company, whether you are looking for a competent and economical cultured stone installer or someone who can assist you in your cultured stone installation project, we can help.

  • We will give you with the high-quality service you deserve at a competitive price.
  • Before we begin the work, we will inform you of the whole amount up front.
  • Every one of our services is backed by a 100 percent customer satisfaction guarantee!
  • Don’t want to deal with the hassle of installing cultured stones yourself?
  • Laszlo has created an essay on how to install ledge stone veneers, which you can read here.

MortonStones.LLC is owned by Morton Stones, LLC. Any comments or questions you would want to share with us should be posted in the comments section below. Thank you. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

ledgestone installation on interior wall

06-12-2011, 12:58 PM 1
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 “cultured” stone install

OK,I’ve got a large wall in my living room (15′ tall, 12′ wide) that I’m thinking about putting some stone veneer over.We’re looking at a stack-stone type feel.I’m thinking about the Eldorado or Corning products, but we might end up going with a real stone veneer (e.g. NSVI).Anyway, the wall currently has just drywall up.The install instructions say to apply plywood, then felt, then lath, then a scratch coat, and then the cultured stone.I can certainly do all that, but I’m wondering if there’s something easier given that this is an indoor space that will never be subject to water or much stress.Was thinking of one of these options:

  1. Remove the drywall, install Densishield or Hardi, and use a polymer modified mortar to apply the veneer directly to the backer (just like you would with tile) Leave the drywall in place, apply felt, tack lathe through the drywall to the studs, and then complete the scratchcoat installation. Leave the drywall in place and apply polymer modified mortar to the veneer to bond it directly to the drywall. The result would be a stone waterfall as 15 feet of stone would rip the paper off the drywall and tumble down my head, but I decided I’d ask anyway. )
06-12-2011, 01:01 PM 2
Registered UserJoin Date: Jul 2002Posts: 30,274 Rich, the height of your wall makes the plywood/lath/scratchcoat plan necessary.
06-12-2011, 01:40 PM 3
Tampa Florida Tile ContractorJoin Date: Oct 2007Location: Tampa, FloridaPosts: 26,486 Quote:Originally Posted byzimm0who0netbut I’m wondering if there’s something easier given that this is an indoor space that will never be subject to water or much stress.I would go with CBU and a good Laticrete thinset or Masonry Veneer Mortar.but I’m a tile guy and that’s how we do itName:100.jpg Views: 1843 Size:19.6 KBName:102.jpg Views: 1883 Size:17.5 KBName:200.JPG Views: 1818 Size:22.0 KB
06-12-2011, 04:34 PM 4
Retired Moderator – Wisconsin Tile ManMusky GuideJoin Date: Apr 2004Location: Springbrook WIPosts: 16,083 Hi Rich, I agree with Brian. You could CBU over the drywall then use Lats MVM._Musky Mike Corrado Custom Tile Kerdi Shower SpecialistDreams are like tasting a little bit of the future today. Keep dreaming and it will come true.New here? Check this out.
06-12-2011, 04:35 PM 5
Amateur Jack of All TradesJoin Date: May 2010Location: MinnesotaPosts: 2,516 I did lath and scratch coat under my Corning castle stone for my fireplace. It wasn’t that hard, and it IS what is required by the manufacturer._WendyBlue belt DIYer. Moderately proficient and occasionally useful. See my finished master bathhere.
06-12-2011, 04:50 PM 6
Tile and Stone ContractorJoin Date: Jan 2006Location: Grand Junction, ColoradoPosts: 5,542 Contact Laticrete tech support and they will tell you what they will sign off on with the use of their products.
06-12-2011, 06:43 PM 7
Tampa Florida Tile ContractorJoin Date: Oct 2007Location: Tampa, FloridaPosts: 26,486 the site mixed sandportland probably wouldn’t stick to CBU like a tile manufacturers thinset. that’s probably why they still show it the old fashion way.time for the architects and stone manufacturers to step into the future.
06-13-2011, 10:21 AM 8
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 Thanks everyone.That gives me some to go on.Brian:Do you happen to remember what brand stackstone that was?It’s really pretty.One other question:We’ve been leaning toward the “fake” stone because it’s cheaper, lighter, and easier to install.However, we’re a bit nervous because we’ve seen some pretty darn unconvincing fakes in some of the stores around here.The problem is that we’re in a smaller town (Tucson) and no one has samples of what people call the “more convincing” fakes (Eldorado, Corning, etc).Has anyone dealt with these products?Are they pretty real looking or should we just bite the bullet and go real veneer?_Rich
03-08-2015, 12:36 PM 9
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 ledgestone installation on interior wall

So I’m installing some ledgestone on an interior wall 15 feet high with no chance of water contact.No grout between stones.The retailer of the stone told me to do a full scratchcoat with Type N mortar over cement backerboard and lathe and then install with type N backbuttering each individual piece.That seems crazy to me.First of all it’s a lot more work, and I don’t understand why I’m using type N mortar rather than thinset.Mortar has better compression strength, but thinset has better shear strength.Compressive strength might be important if I was grouting between stones, but these are only connected via the backs, so I would think that shear (and tensile) strength is the important factor.Plus backbuttering each stone is going to make for a messy process whereas thinset application with a notched trowel will be much nicer/easier.(incidentally, the ledgestone is generally about 2″ deep with a sawcut/smooth edge on the back.)Am I crazy?I read somewhere else to use hardibacker, do a skimcoat with Type N mortar to make sure you can’t see the hardibacker through the gaps between stones, and then use thinset with a notched trowel just like I would do with tile.What do you guys think?_Rich

03-08-2015, 01:32 PM 10
Moderator emeritusJoin Date: Jul 2001Location: Boerne, TexasPosts: 94,595 Welcome back, Rich.Sounds like the same project from a few years back so I’ve merged your new thread here.And not much change in our advice, I wouldn’t think.It’ll help if you’ll provide a link to the actual product you now plan to use and/or the manufacturer’s installation instructions.The tile installation product manufacturer’s have done a lot of R D on the installation of these stone veneer products and the one from Laticrete mentioned earlier is still a very viable choice for your application.Not sure where the skim coat of Type N mortar came from, but I’d remain well clear of that even if recommended by the stone manufacturer.I would not want to attempt any bonding with a masonry product less than at least Type S, but I’d still recommend an actual bonding mortar such as made by the tile installation product manufacturers.But first let’s see what you’re actually installing and what the manufacturer has to say, eh?My opinion; worth price charged.
03-08-2015, 02:32 PM 11
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 Wow.Memory disruption here.And I even did a search and didn’t come up with what I wanted. Ugh.Yes, same project.Newborn twins got in the way before and I’m only now getting back to it and trying to remember where I left off. Thanks all for your help._Rich
03-08-2015, 02:45 PM 12
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 So the type N skim coat came from Creative Mines (the supplier of the ledge stone). I called over and asked about install and told them I’d rather not do the full lathe treatment. He suggested the skim coat over the CBU of N (he told me its stickier than the type S and thus would adhere to the CBU better). He also suggested cutting the laticrete MVM with 2 parts type N to one part MVM to save on cost.That laticrete hi-bond MVM is like $60 a bag so saving a bit on cost seemed a reasonable ideaI’m not sure about all that, but it did come from the quarry that’s supplying the veneer.I have also read in other forums about being able to see the very white hardiebacker in the joints between stones, so I guess the skim coat idea rang a bit true to me._Rich
03-08-2015, 03:32 PM 13
Moderator emeritusJoin Date: Jul 2001Location: Boerne, TexasPosts: 94,595 Up to you, Rich, but Type N mortar mixes have the least amount of Portland cement in the mix.Type S has more than Type N, and Type M has more than Type S.Not sure if there’s a miscommunication there, but I’d like a bit more Portland in my mortar if I were using it as a bonding agent.And, actually, I’d much rather have a bonding mortar such as the Laticrete MVM even if it cost me a few dollars more.Hiding the Hardibacker in the joints should be no problem as you’ll be keying in your bonding mortar to the substrate even if you’re not notiching it on there while you’re setting the stones.I don’t recall exactly what color the MVM mortar is.My opinion; worth price charged.
03-08-2015, 03:54 PM 14
Registered UserJoin Date: Aug 2010Location: Tucson, AZPosts: 33 Thanks.Quick question: if I key in the MVM and then apply more mortar with a notched trowel, aren’t I likely to create white stripes where the notches scratch down to the Hardiebacker?_Rich
03-08-2015, 05:24 PM 15
Moderator emeritusJoin Date: Jul 2001Location: Boerne, TexasPosts: 94,595 Not necessarily, but even if you do the squeeze out from setting the stones should result in the areas between the stones being covered in mortar.My opinion; worth price charged.
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How to Install a Stone Wall in Your Home

Hello! It is my wish that everyone has enjoyed their week! As part of my weekly guest post series, I requested another blogger to offer a guide on how to install an inside stone wall. It is quite beautiful to see the timeless charm that a stone feature wall can provide to a home! Christy from Mommy’s Tool Belt did an absolutely stunning job putting one in her powder bathroom renovation! Fortunately, she is here today to tell you how she fared! Chrissy, please take it away! *************************************************************************** Chrissy here from my blog, Mama’s Tool Belt, and I’m delighted to have you stop by!

  1. When the occasion calls for it, I also incorporate a bit DIY craft and cooking into my projects at Mommy’s Tool Belt.
  2. You may see examples of projects such as an entrance makeover using board and batten.
  3. Getting messy is inevitable, but the effort will be rewarded with an impressive wall that will have everyone saying, “Wow!” This lesson makes use of a type of stone known as piled ledgestone in Desert Quartz, which is shown in the images below.
  4. It even doesn’t require the use of grout, which is fantastic!
  5. As a result, my photographs may not perfectly correspond to the instructions.

Step 1

Remove any sheetrock (or drywall) and replace it with cement board, fastening it into the existing studs to provide additional support for the weight of the stone during installation. In contrast to sheetrock, cement board is intended to support large stones such as ledgestone. Due to their potential to peel away from the front of sheetrock and fall, it is recommended that you replace your sheetrock wall with cement board to ensure that it does not tumble down! In fact, we didn’t realize the benefits of cement board until after we had placed it, so we installed the stones straight on the sheetrock.

Step 2

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the thin set. Thin set * is the cement that is used to adhere the stone to the brickwork.

Pour some thin set onto a notched trowel * and use it to distribute it evenly over the bottom of the wall. Burrows should be made in the thin set by raking over it, which will aid in the stone’s suction to the wall and the formation of a tight seal.

Step 3

Begin with the first stone tile, which should be at the bottom of the wall, and work your way up. We will be making our way up the wall so that the stones may lay on top of one another while drying. While the photographs show me building on one side of the wall first so that we could leave the toilet in place for the kids, working one row at a time is the best way to ensure that the stones are level and fit together. Start in the centre of the bottom row with a full stone tile and work your way out to the corners, starting with the full stone tile.

Does that make sense?

Pressure should be applied to the stone so that it adheres to the wall and does not allow any air to enter behind it.

It is important that there are no gaps between the stones, so pack them closely together.

Step 4

Each side of each stone tile will need to be cut when you finish the first row of stone tiles in order to fit the last pieces into the space. When it comes to cutting the stone to size, a wet saw tile cutter* will work best. Once the first row has been done, go on to the next row and continue step 3 until the entire row has been completed. Continue to place the stones up the wall, and if you find yourself needing to pause for an extended length of time, conclude with a finished row of stones at the top.

Step 5

It’s possible that the final row of stones will fit snugly against the ceiling, or that they may need to be chopped down to fit in the remaining space. In order to make the stone butt up to the ceiling, some portions of the stone can be detached and used to fill in any gaps in the stone. Once the wall is completed, there is no longer any need to group the stones together. What a fantastic opportunity!

Step 6

On preserve the wall from stains and moisture, apply a layer of stone sealer* to it before painting it. Apply an even layer of paint using a paintbrush, and it should be dry within a couple of hours after doing so. You have completed the gorgeous stone wall, which will serve as a classic element in your home for many years to come! You may view the instruction for the bathroom transformation with the stone wall by clicking on the link provided above. My sincere thanks go out to Provident Home Design for having me on their show, and I hope you all liked my guide on how to build a stone wall.

*************************************************************************** Thank you very much for your help, Chrissy!

I sincerely hope you found this tutorial to be as beneficial as I did.

I hope you have a wonderful weekend:-) Greetings! *Amazon affiliate links (which means I’ll get a tiny commission if you make a purchase after clicking on one of my links at no additional cost to you).

Is Drywall Suitable for a Stone Veneer Installation?

The majority of people, including the author, who have ever swung a hammer in the name of home renovation have encountered the urge to cut corners every now and again. Working with your thinset to install stone or tile immediately after mixing it instead of allowing it to set for a few minutes might be as easy as that, or it could be something more dangerous like replacing a light fixture but only shutting off the power at the switch rather than the breaker. When working with natural thin stone veneers, particularly those that are used on a large number of renovation and remodeling projects, we frequently hear from customers who want to save money on the installation by skipping one step – whether or not the product can be installed over drywall (which is not the case).

  • It is possible to install stone veneer on a variety of substrates, all of which are cementitious in nature.
  • Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, let’s look at why drywall isn’t a good substrate for stone veneer installation.
  • Our stone veneers may weigh anything from 7 to 13 pounds per square foot, depending on the type of stone.
  • It is, at its most basic level, gypsum sandwiched between two thick sheets of paper; nonetheless, this is not a complex product to understand.
  • However, when it comes to hanging heavystone tiles or panels that are being bonded to the outer paper layer of the drywall with a wet cement-based thinset setting medium, the laws of physics do not hold true.

Backsplash made using Norstone Stacked Stone Veneer Installed over a cement board foundation We receive this question so frequently about installing our stone veneer products over drywall because of the widespread use of drywall in the construction industry, as well as the fact that many of the products for which our product is ideally suited will already have drywall installed as the wall system.

  1. Feature walls and fireplaces are excellent examples of how to accomplish this.
  2. How to Install Cement Board Over Drywall in Preparation for Stone Veneer Installation If your DIY stone veneer project has come to a grinding halt due to drywall, don’t despair!
  3. Our clients frequently decide to leave the drywall in place and just cover it with.25-inch-thick cement board to complete the project.
  4. Making sure that your screws are long enough to penetrate both your cement board and existing drywall while still sinking at least half way into the studs is probably the most crucial element of a cover up job like this.

We have a fantastic team of experienced representatives with years of industry expertise who are ready and happy to answer any questions you may have about stone veneer installation. Please don’t hesitate to call Norstone now to learn more and to have any difficult inquiries addressed.

Next Steps: Select from our Best Selling Stone Veneers for your Project

Please feel free to visit our Dry Stack Stone Shop or Ashlar Stone Veneer Shop to view our complete choice of stone veneer alternatives, or simply click on any of the best sellers listed below to learn more about them!

How to Install Stone Veneer on Interior Accent Walls

The use of stone veneer on an interior wall may convert it into a focal point. A stone wainscot at the bottom of a wall, or veneer applied to the full wall, are options depending on your taste and preferences. Stone veneer manufactured from cement board and adhered to a layer of cement board is lighter than genuine stone and may be put in a variety of ways. Using a wet tile saw, pieces of the veneer are cut to fit into corners and along the ceiling’s ridges. If this is your first time dealing with stone veneer and grout, it is recommended that you seek the aid of a skilled mason or remodeling contractor.

  • Remove any wall hangings as well as the hangers from the room.
  • With a nail bar, pry the baseboard off the wall at the corner.
  • Drop cloths should be used to protect the floor and furniture.
  • In order to prepare the wall or the area where veneer is to be installed, use a power drill with screw-tip attachment and 1 1/2-inch deck screws to install a layer of cement backer board.
  • Using a utility knife, cut filler pieces and apertures for outlets or switches in the wall.
  • Place a 4-foot-square slab of stone veneer on the floor and rake it into place.
  • Continue to arrange additional stones so that they are in proper alignment with one another and will appear best when covered with grout.

Pieces that will be installed at the end and at the top of the wall will be trimmed to fit once they are installed.

Work your way up the wall from the bottom up, pressing the stones into position as you go, copying the arrangement as you go.

If you want to use the stone as a wainscot, the higher pieces can be cut to give a ledge for wood trim, if that is what you want.

Working on a stepladder, complete the installation of full pieces of veneer on the upper portion of the wall.

Put the water-intake hose for the pump into the water until it is completely submerged.

Put on a pair of latex gloves.

Using a felt-tip marker, mark the pieces where they will be cut, and then cut each piece at the spot with the tile saw.

Apply glue to the back of each piece and press it into position against the wall. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Process 3: Repeat the previous step to fill the gaps at the top and opposite ends of the wall that were left open.

Grouting the Stone Veneer

Using a plastic putty knife, mix a batch of sanded grout in a mixing tub until smooth. Just enough water to make the mixture a medium consistency, comparable to mashed potatoes, is all that is needed. Move the mixing tub close to the wall and use your hands to carefully place the grout mixture in the crevices between the stones. Fill a 1-gallon bucket halfway with grout mixture and work your way up the stepladder to grout the higher areas of the veneer. Allow about an hour of curing time for the grout.

This will provide a consistent appearance.

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