Installing Interior PVC Trim
Q:For a bathroom makeover, my client has asked flat 1×6 PVC trim with a profiled PVC cap piece to match the look of the period baseboards in the rest of the home. Is this possible? Following the cutting of the profile in the cap piece, what is the most effective method of removing burrs from the routed surfaces? As well like whether or not to glue the joints together to allow for expansion and contraction (as I do with my external PVC trim) are there any other considerations to consider. A: The following is the response from Gary Katz, a frequent contributor to JLC and administrator of the JLC Online finish-carpentry forum: My experience using PVC trim on a variety of interior projects has been positive.
TheVersatexcellular PVC has provided the finest results for me (versatex.com).
P320 or P400 sandpaper is used to smooth routed PVC edges or surfaces that have dried PVC glue on them.
In order to deal the inner corners, I miter the outside corners and bind the outer corners together with glue and one-inch-long 23-gauge pins, which are the same fasteners I use on wood.
- Nail holes in PVC may be filled with nearly any material that can be used with wood on the interior of a home; Bond-and-Fill is a good choice for this purpose.
- I occasionally use Versatex’s branded PVC cement, but I’ve also used 2P-10 (fastcap.com) on self-returns and little pieces, which is extremely effective.
- On coping joints, whether I’m working with wood or PVC trim, I don’t bother applying any adhesive at all because there is nothing to bond to and there is no purpose to do so.
- PVC trim also shrinks and expands in response to temperature variations; if it’s installed while the temperature is anywhere near 70°F, it’s unlikely to move much in the following days or weeks.
Tips for Working with PVC Trim
What’s the Deal With PVC Trim?
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) trim is another term for the material we’re talking about. It’s made entirely of PVC from top to bottom. It should not be confused with high-density rigid polyurethane or items that have been coated with PVC. While they, too, are extremely durable and low-maintenance, the installation procedures used to install them are distinct. It is a kind of plastic that has a hundred diverse applications, including the manufacture of pipework for plumbing systems. The trim is available in a variety of thicknesses and widths, although it is most commonly offered in standard sizes that are similar to those of other wood trim items.
It is possible to pick from hundreds of different profiles such as bead board, skirt board, tongue and groove, quarter round, brick molding, coves, and crowns, just to mention a few.
It’s possible that the home store near you only carries 8-ft.
boards in a couple of the most popular widths, which means you’ll have to purchase longer lengths as well as specific profiles and moldings on a custom basis. The most significant disadvantage of PVC is its cost; it is prohibitively costly. 2/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
Cement the Joints
When using PVC, one of the advantages is that you may “weld” joints together to keep them tight and prevent water from seeping under the trim. It is recommended by the manufacturers that a particular form of PVC cement be used, which has a longer “open time” than the sort of cement that plumbers use on plastic pipes. This cement may be purchased from any retailer that sells trim. To clamp and fix the joints before the cement sets, you’ll have approximately five minutes of working time available to you.
Remove any remaining surplus immediately with a moist towel.
Work it Like Wood
When it comes to cutting PVC items, you may use the same power equipment that you would use for wood. However, only carbide-tipped saw blades should be used; plain steel blades will rapidly get dull. In general, the greater the number of teeth on a blade, the finer the edges of the cut will be. Combination saw blades perform admirably. As a result, sawn edges will not have the same glossy finish as factory edges, therefore if at all feasible, organize your work so that cut edges will be covered and the smoother factory edge will be visible whenever possible.
Sanding using a belt does not function effectively because the friction created by the belt melts the plastic instead of smoothing it out.
Scarf the Joints
Trim ends should be joined together in the same way that wood is: Make “scarf joints,” which are 45-degree joints that overlap one another. The first piece of trim should be cut such that it extends just over the center of the first stud, allowing the second, overlapping trim piece to be secured to the center of the first stud. Also, don’t forget to apply cement to both parts before attaching them to the wall with screws. 5/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
Bend it to Fit
One really useful quality of PVC is that it can be heated and then twisted into virtually any shape you can think up. You’ll discover that cutting arched windows is a piece of cake—and even a little bit of fun—once you figure out how to heat the PVC. When cooked to around 320 degrees Fahrenheit, the substance transforms into a wet noodle. Create a shape out of plywood and you’ll be able to produce uniform pieces all day long. A culvert and a torpedo heater may be used to make your own heat blanket, which is less expensive ($1,000 to $3,000) than the heat blankets used by the people who do a lot of bending.
Leave Expansion Gaps
When it is hot, PVC trim expands, and when it is cold, PVC trim shrinks. Generally speaking, if you’re installing trim at temperatures higher than 80 degrees Fahrenheit, go ahead and tighten the joints as much as you can. If the temperature is between 60 and 80 degrees, leave a 1/16-inch space between every 18 feet of length. Leave a 1/8-inch space if the temperature is below 60 degrees. Some items expand more than others, so be sure to read the directions that come with the individual product you’re dealing with to ensure that you give plenty of space for it to grow.
Caulk the gap with paintable acrylic or polyurethane caulk once it has been installed after the installation. Caulks based on silicone should be avoided since they do not cling well to vinyl. 7/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
Fasteners from the Cortex brand are excellent for unpainted trim (available at lumberyards or amazon.com). There is a kit that contains a bit, plugs, and screws to put together. Nothing more complicated than drilling a hole through the trim (the bit will automatically halt drilling when the necessary depth is achieved) and tapping a plug into the hole until it is flush with the trim surface. Make sure you get the screws that are specifically created for the sort of trim you’re dealing with; this will ensure that the plugs are produced from the same material as the screws.
Using one package of 100, you may attach 50 linear feet of trim that is smaller than 10 inches in width.
Preassemble Window and Door Trim
Preassemble your PVC trim in the manner indicated, and then install it as a single unit rather than one piece at a time as you would with wood. This will take a bit longer, but it will result in joints that are absolutely tight. The cement hardens to make extremely strong joints. In other words, if you can clamp the pieces together, you won’t need any screws at all. Screws, on the other hand, are far faster and easier to use than clamps in the majority of cases. When you’re cementing window and door trim assemblies, pocket screws are the most effective means of attaching corners (see next tip).
When installing trim around vinyl- or aluminum-clad windows, make sure to provide a 1/8-inch expansion space between the trim and the window frame to allow for caulk to expand and contract.
Use a Pocket Hole Jig for Corners
Predrill mitered corners using a pocket hole jig, glue the corners together, and then screw them together again. Use pocket screws with a coarse threaded head for this application. 10/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
If You Decide to Paint
Although painting PVC trim is not required, you may want to consider it if you have a lot of cut ends showing on your windowsills or door frames (some brands of PVC are protected from UV sunlight only on the outside). Over time, edges that have been chopped or routed may become discolored or yellow. Cut edges also accumulate dust and are more difficult to clean than straight edges. Before you begin painting, wipe the surfaces well with a light detergent to remove any filth or oils that have accumulated from handling.
Darker paint colors, until recently, were only allowed to be used on lighter-colored PVC trim because darker colors absorbed more sunlight and caused the trim to flex and peel, resulting in a deterioration of the paint finish.
Sherwin-Williams is one paint company that has recently introduced a variety of vinyl-safe paints to their product line. There are more than 100 color options, both light and dark, to choose from. 11/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
Fill Fastener Holes Before You Paint
Fill any minor gaps with external filler and softly sand the surface once it has dried completely. Alternatively, you may use a paintable caulk and smooth it out with your finger. Fill up bigger holes or damaged areas using car body filler, then sand the surface once it has dried completely. 12/13 Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family
Use the Proper Fasteners
If you want to save money, don’t choose fasteners that won’t last as long as the trim. Trim screws made of stainless steel are the most durable option since they will never rust. If you like, you may use hot-dipped galvanized nails, but keep in mind that they will eventually rust. Because PVC expands and shrinks in response to temperature variations, it must be securely fastened. Never merely screw into the sheathing; always screw into the frame. Make sure that the fastener lengths are long enough to pierce the frame by at least 1-1/2 in.
Lower temperatures, on the other hand, necessitate both drilling and countersinking because else the PVC may break.
For trim that is 10 inches or broader, use an additional fastener in the center; for trim that is 16 inches or bigger, use four screws every 16 inches.
Rout Profiles with Carbide-Tipped Router Bits
Routing or shaping ornamental edges or grooves with routers or shapers is simple if you use carbide-edged router or shaper bits. The original publication date was January 16, 2019.
A 10 Step Guide To Correctly Installing PVC Trim boards.
Trim boards made of PVC are by far the most versatile material available for enhancing the exterior of a property. They are available in a variety of colors, finishes, and patterns, and when correctly installed, they may bring a touch of personality to your house. The crucial term in this sentence is “properly installed.” It is likely that you are a fabricator, a building contractor, or a carpenter, and that you understand what we are discussing. If you know how to deal with PVC trim correctly, it can be a great all-around product for both the outside and inside of your home.
Even if you’re a house owner seeking for a DIY (do it yourself) guide on working with PVC trim, this site might be of assistance to you.
1. Cutting PVC Trim Boards
You will not notice much of a difference between wood trim and PVC trim while cutting PVC trim if you are dealing with it for the first time. You must, however, be familiar with a few crucial features of the cutting method in order to succeed. PVC trim boards for the outside may be cut using the same power equipment that you would normally use when dealing with hardwood trim. We do, however, recommend that you only use saw blades with carbide tips. Due to the fact that the material does not heat up and adhere to the blade when fewer teeth are used, the cut edges are cleaner when fewer teeth are used.
Hybrid saw blades that are standard in design are recommended.
As the trim boards are being cut, these cells open up, allowing dust to build on the surface.
If you follow the instructions carefully, you will have no trouble cutting the PVC trimmings and achieving an ultra-smooth, rich-looking finish. Watch this video from Hffcom to learn how to cut PVC trim boards: http://www.hffcom.com/videos/how-to-cut-pvc-trim-boards/
For those who are dealing with PVC trim for the first time, you will not notice much of a difference when cutting it in comparison to wood. But there are a few important features of the cutting method that you should be aware with. PVC trim boards for the outside may be cut using the same power equipment that you would normally use to cut wood trim for the same purpose. You should only use carbide-tipped saw blades, though, if you want to avoid damaging your saw. Due to the fact that the material does not heat up and adhere to the blade when fewer teeth are used, the cut edges of a blade are cleaner.
Hybrid saw blades that are standard are recommended.
They are opened up as a result of the cutting of the trim boards, and dust collects on the surface.
It’s simple to cut PVC trimmings and get an ultra-smooth, rich-looking finish if you follow the prescribed procedure.
Using regular working cables and carbide-tipped bits with several flutes is recommended for routing purposes, according to the manufacturer. Routers make it simple to route ornamental edges or grooves in a variety of materials. A freshly sharpened tool would be the most effective instrument for this approach. Small radii rather than big angles are preferable when working with tools in order to avoid stress cracking on the edges. Maintain the cleanliness of your boards and equipment by removing debris and build-up as often as possible to avoid any potential harm.
4. Fastening your PVC Trim Boards
Steel screws are the finest choice when it comes to fastening PVC boards together since they will never corrode and will prevent the board from bleeding if the PVC board is left unpainted. Stainless steel screws with tiny finish heads are the ideal choice for the external trim of your home. Alternatively, galvanized hot-dipped nails can be used; however, there is a risk that they can corrode and discolor the PVC trim over time. We propose that you utilize 8d nails, which are often used for hardwood trim and have a minimum strength of 12 gauge, for your project.
These boards should be fixed at least 2 inches from the end of the board in order to provide a more secure grip.
Never merely drive screws or nails into the sheathing; always drive them into the framework. The following board widths are recommended for the optimum control of the boards’ movements:
|Board Width||Fasteners per Width With a maximum of every 16” on center|
5. Cementing PVC Trim board joints Together
One of the benefits of utilizing PVCtrim boards is that the seams may be sealed with cement to ensure that the boards are extremely secure! We propose that you use a particular sort of PVC cement that can be purchased at the same time as the trim. You will have around five minutes of working time before the cement hardens in order to clamp and fix the joints. Using a little amount of cement, apply it to all surfaces before clamping or screwing the connection together. The strength of the joints determines how long your boards will last.
The major movement of PVC trim boards seems to be linear in comparison to wood, which typically expands and contracts in breadth (that is, perpendicular to the grain).
Watch this video to learn how to deal with this situation in the most acceptable manner:
6. Gluing PVC Trim Boards
It is critical that the trim boards are properly glued together if they are to last for many years to come. It is preferable to use a polymer-based sealant including solvents for sealing PVC trim boards rather than a silicone-based sealant when sealing PVC trim boards. This is due to the fact that solvents create a brief chemical breakdown of the PVC trim boards, essentially fusing the boards together at the joints. The best option is PVC pipe glue or a product that has been specifically created for PVC material.
For more information, you may view this video by AdamDIY on how to glue PVC trim boards together: How to Glue PVC Trim Boards Together.
7. Pre-assembling PVC trims
Check the joints and lengths by cutting the miters to fit and fitting your cuts in a dry-fitting environment. When applying PVC trim for windows around vinyl or aluminum-clad windows, make sure to allow a 1/8-inch space between the trim and the window.
8. Filling Fastener holes
It is certain that there will be holes left over after you have fastened the boards together. Leaving them in their current condition will make your PVC outside trim appear unsightly. In order to prevent this from happening:
- Exterior filler can be used to fill in minor cracks and holes. If you want to do this, you can utilize the Cortex hidden fastening/plug system. After it has dried, sand it down and smooth it out
- Fill any bigger holes or damaged areas using auto body filler, and sand it down again when it has fully healed. You may also purchase plugs made of cortex or starborn to fill up the gaps.
9. Scarf Joints
In sewing, a scarf joint is a method of putting two fabrics together end to end. It is most commonly used when a particular material is not available in the desired size. Scarf joints are 45-degree joints that overlap one another, such as those seen at the margins of PVC window trim. To avoid splitting, cut the first piece of trim so that it stops just short of a stud, allowing the second overlapping trim piece to be connected to the stud about an inch or so from the end of the first piece. It is important to use proper scarf joints to guarantee that your edges remain stable.
10. Painting PVC trim boards
Echon PVC trim boards do not require any additional protection in the form of painting. You should, however, use paints that are 100 percent acrylic latex or paints that include both acrylic latex and a urethane component if you want to breathe new life into your outside walls. Note: You should paint your PVC trim boards with a paint that has a light reflective value (LRV) of at least 55 units. The use of dark hues may result in the distortion of the trimboard as a result of the increased heat absorption.
- The surface may be cleaned and dehumidified with the help of an acetone-soaked cloth rubbed gently on the surface.
- Depending on the weather conditions, it might take up to 28-30 days for the paint to completely dry!
- The following approaches should assist you in becoming an expert in working with PVC Trim boards.
- If you found this blog to be informative, please leave a comment and let us know what you think.
- Disclaimer: The opinions presented in this post are based on the expertise and experience of our team members.
- We strongly suggest all of our readers to double-check all of the information presented here through their own sources before acting on it.
- The material is being offered to assist our readers and members of our community and is not intended to be official in any way.
In no event will we be held legally or morally accountable for any loss or harm, whether financial or nonfinancial, that may result from following the recommendations or information offered in our blogs.
How To Install PVC Trim
Cellular It’s no surprise that PVC trim has gained in popularity since its introduction in the late 1990s, and for good reason. It is not going to decay. You can accomplish things with it that are difficult with wood, such as bending around tight curves, that are much easier with it. Because there is no grain, there is less possibility of splitting and shattering. Furthermore, when fitted properly, the material is indistinguishable from wood trim and retains its appearance over time. A correct installation of the key phrase has been completed.
- However, once in situ, the material acts in a different manner than wood, with the major concern being the ability to expand and contract.
- Joints “The first thing to understand is that, unlike wood, PVC moves in response to variations in temperature,” explains John Pace, president of Versatex.
- Therefore, the vast majority of discussions among installers are focused on how to correctly link boards end-to-end in a straight line.
- When working with lengthy lines of boards (say, three or more boards), it may be necessary to provide expansion spaces at these junctions as well.
- When the temperature ranges from 40 to 60 degrees, leave an eighth inch of room.
- Fill up the gaps between joints using a flexible sealant.
- Aim for a leg length of less than 8 feet on either side of the miter; however, the optimal length will vary depending on the task at hand.
If the backing is rigid, such as when connecting a skirt board to a band joist, you can further restrict movement by bonding the trim to the joist using construction glue before installing the trim.
The reason for this is because solvents will induce some chemical breakdown of the PVC, essentially welding the boards together as a result of the chemical breakdown.
A subfloor adhesive or a heavy-duty construction glue should be used to attach PVC to wood.
Look for a solvent base sealant at the bottom of the tube, near where it is inserted into the caulking gun, to determine whether or not it is solvent-based.
Silicone sealants should be avoided since they will not produce a firm bond.
Ideally, nails should be annular or smooth and thick enough to prevent them from being bent by your fingers.
Screws, on the other hand, are even better.
With a hammer, a plug is inserted in the hole and pounded snug with the bit to ensure that the screw is at the proper depth for the job.
Nail or screw in pairs every 16 inches, as well as on either side of each joint, to hold the wood together.
Following the guidelines outlined above should result in a trim job that is stable and will last for a long period of time.
According to the response, painting the material is not required, but it is an option.
One word of caution: stay away from really dark colors, especially in areas where the boards will be exposed to direct sunlight.
Some paint manufacturers provide coats that are particularly designed for PVC lumber.
Charles Wardell is credited with inventing the phrase What Should I Read Next? Raised-Heel Trusses are the best way to go. How to Construct a Storm-Resistant Deck Meet the requirements of new codes with a double 2×4 system.
How to Use PVC Trim in a Shower
PVC molding, despite the fact that it has been around for quite some time, is succeeding where traditional wood trim has failed in the past. This high-tech, plastic substance is well suited for use in showers when waterproof backer board seams are leaking or are at risk of falling apart. If you’re concerned about it, PVC may be the solution. Showers constructed from any form of waterproof panel, rather than the traditional one-piece fiberglass enclosure, might benefit from the use of PVC trim, which helps to keep everything well sealed.
In With The New
The trim made of PVC is watertight. It’s the same as the white water pipes that are often found in many homes for plumbing. It’s virtually unbreakable, yet it can be cut and nailed just like regular molding using common tools. This sort of wood molding is available in virtually any profile that you would find in other forms of wood molding. Showers benefit greatly from quarter-round PVC trim, which is the greatest solution in almost every respect. It has a rounded front and a 90-degree rear on it.
In the event that quarter-round molding is not desired, PVC cove molding is an alternative.
Out With The Old
It’s possible that your shower has a sort of metal trim that has to be removed. Look for it in the corners of the panel board and along the perimeter of the board as well. The item must be removed even if it is made of something other than metal. Pull away any excess silicone or caulking from both sides of the trim if necessary, or just enough to allow the tip of a putty knife to be inserted behind the trim to be removed. Remove the trim by prying it up. Pull it away from the panel board as soon as you are able to get a hold of it.
If it’s attached with screws, unscrew the screws.
Measure Twice, Cut Once
If the pieces come off without being broken or bent, you may use them as a guide to cut the PVC trim to the appropriate length. If not, then take measurements around the perimeter of the shower, including the sides, top, and bottom. Using a miter saw, cut the quarter-round PVC trim to the desired lengths and widths. It cuts as easily as wood does. There is no requirement to miter the joints. To make sure that no corners or edges are visible, use a sanding block to round or roll the ends of the trim.
In the corners where two sections are joined at 90 degrees, or where the panel board ends, run a bead of silicone glue along the edge of each.
Hold the quarter-round in place with your fingers. Pin nails of 1 1/4-inch length should be driven into the rounded edges, exactly as you would with typical wood molding.
The Tips Of Your Fingers
Fill up all of the nail holes with caulking or silicone to make them watertight. If you use white caulk or adhesive, you won’t be able to see that there was a nail hole. You may apply the caulking using your finger that has a dab of caulking on it, or you can use a little flexible tube that looks similar to a tooth paste tube. If it’s apparent, you can smooth it out with a damp fingertip. Seal the perimeter of the PVC trim by applying either clear or white silicone or waterproof caulk around the perimeter.
It is recommended that you wait at least 24 hours before showering.
How to Install Plastic Baseboard Molding
Home-Diy The methods for installing plastic baseboard molding are quite similar to those for installing ordinary wood or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) products in the same space. Plastic baseboard molding may be available in a few more colors or styles than traditional molding materials, depending on the manufacturer. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); then this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> Although plastic baseboard molding is very inexpensive, its fragility means that it will chip or break more frequently than other types of molding throughout the installation process.
The use of a finer-toothed saw can assist reduce some of the difficulties connected with the chipping or breaking of plastic baseboard materials, such as cracking or breaking.
- A tape measure, a miter box, a miter saw, a hammer, and 1-inch finish nails are all required.
- Each wall should be measured to calculate the length of each piece of plastic baseboard molding that will be used
- Make a mark on the molding pieces to indicate where you need to cut. Place the molding in a miter box, aligning the cut mark with the miter box slot that corresponds to the size of the molding. Slots are either 90-degree or 45-degree angles, and they can be either left or right. Using a miter saw, cut the plastic baseboard molding to size. To begin the cut, carefully draw the saw back and forth across the table. Use caution when cutting the baseboard material so that it does not become chipped. In order to guarantee that the plastic baseboard is properly cut, place it against the wall before cutting. The baseboard should be fastened to the wall using a hammer and 1-inch finish nails. Steps 2 through 3 should be repeated to complete the installation of the plastic baseboard molding around the remaining walls in the room.
The Drip Cap
- In most cases, the methods for installing plastic baseboard molding are the same as those for installing ordinary wood or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) products. When cutting plastic baseboard materials, using a finer-toothed saw can assist eliminate some of the difficulties associated with chipping or breaking of the materials. Each wall should be measured to calculate the length of each piece of plastic baseboard molding that will be used
Top 10 Questions about PVC Trim
1. Is it necessary to prime PVC trim before use? In order to receive the paint manufacturer’s warranty, you must use a primer first. It is possible to get excellent adherence when painting PVC trim by thoroughly cleaning the board before applying the topcoat of paint. (For further information on painting PVC trim, see the painting recommendations in the Versatex contractor manual.) The following is a note from the publisher: WARNING: THERE MAY BE A CONFLICT OF INTEREST HERE! Please do not read this article if you are sensitive to articles that appear to favor a certain manufacturer.
- However, after years of experience, I’ve discovered that certain manufacturers are more knowledgeable about their goods than anybody else; if a carpenter wants to understand the best way to install a product, the manufacturer is often the most reliable source of information available.
- To obtain outstanding coating durability and flexibility, virtually any 100 percent acrylic latex, or 100 percent acrylic latex with a urethane addition, can be utilized.
- Duration paint by Sherwin Williams, Manor Hall paint by PPG, and Moorelife paint by Benjamin Moore are examples of paints that stick well on vinyl trim.
- The “Green Seal®” product name is also used by Sherwin Williams to refer to a field-applied coating they sell.
- This coating is particularly well suited for use on Cellular PVC because of its exceptional adhesive qualities.
- Is it possible to paint PVC trim in dark colors?
Our product guarantee will be voided if, for example, paint with an LRV of less than 55 units is used.
As a result, an LRV of zero (0) is black, and an LRV of one hundred (100) is white when the LRV is zero.
In other situations, contractors assumed the paint they used was a light beige, only to discover that it had an LRV in the 20s or 30s after the fact.
Whether or not this is possible is dependent on weather conditions.
This is due to the fact that PVC trim is impermeable to moisture, and it may take as long as 30 days for the paint to properly cure on PVC trim.
What is the best adhesive to use for attaching PVC trim to wooden surfaces?
When it comes to connecting the ends of PVC trim boards to themselves, we recommend using PVC pipe glue with solvent (such as Weld-On 705 by IPS, TrimTight by Trim Glue, Inc., or Christy’s Red Hot).
If you are searching for a stronger substantial bond at shiplap or scarf joints, miter cuts (window surround), or for gluing sheets of PVC trim together, PVC TrimWelder is the product for you.
PVC TrimWelder Adhesive is the finest choice for bonding PVC trim to metal.
Slow and fast cures are used for field joints and small glue-ups, whereas Laminating Grade is used for sheet glue-ups and large glue-ups.
It is important to remember to apply any adhesive to only one bonding surface at a time, allowing the glue to permeate into the cells of the opposing trim piece.
The Cortex Concealed Fastening Solution, which is the most effective overall system for fastening PVC trim, is recommended.
When comparing the cost of this attaching solution to the cost of nails, take in mind that you won’t have to go back over the trim and fill in the nail holes that were left by the nails.
What are your ideas for dealing with both expansion and contraction in the workplace?
Simpson It is possible to gun-nail an 8d nail with a 7d head made by Strong-Tie in a 12-gauge thickness.
The “Trifecta” is the name given to this nail.
It is constructed of 316 stainless steel.
Allow for acclimatization of PVC trim to outside temperatures before installing it.
Make sure to provide enough room for expansion and contraction at the end of long runs.
or less if at all practicable, and bind boards to substrates wherever possible.
space around the junction.
Shiplap joints outperform scarf cut joints in terms of durability, especially on long lines.
Apply a sealer or adhesive to the stonework using a trowel to create a flat surface that will take the PVC trimboard.
Also, what is the best way to clean PVC trimboards?
Take care not to harm the board’s exposed surface by squeezing it too hard.
Use Soft Scrub with Bleach, one of a range of Clorox products (Clorox Outdoors, for example), Mr.
Before cleaning the trimboards on your project, test the cleaner in an inconspicuous area first, just like you would with any new product.
What are the best sealants to use with PVC trim and where can I find them?
According to research, NPC Solar Seal900 Sealant/Adhesive in Trimboard White111 is among the finest sealants for sealing and attaching PVC trim to itself and to a variety of different substrates, including trimboards.
In addition to Quad and EP-1000 Enhanced Polyurethane by OSI, Geocel 2300, or other polyurethane sealants, are also highly recommended. Use of silicone sealants is not recommended since they are incompatible with cellular PVC trim.
Can you nail PVC baseboard?
Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was made on the 29th of January, 2020. I use two and a quarter-inch-long 15-gaugenails to secure the trim to the wall. Nailholes in PVC may be filled with nearly anything that can be used with wood on the interior of a home; Bond-and-Fill (bondfill.com) is a good choice for this purpose. Make Use of the Appropriate Fasteners Trim screws made of stainless steel are the greatest option since they will never rust. Use of hot-dipped galvanized nails is another an option, although they may corrode over time.
Fasteners should be spaced every 16 inches.
Paint adheres nicely to PVC molding and millwork and lasts far longer than paint applied to wood.
After then, the question becomes, “How do you install PVC baseboard molding?”.
- Each wall should be measured to calculate the length of each piece of plastic baseboard molding that will be used
- Make a mark on the molding pieces to indicate where you need to cut
- Using a miter saw, cut the plastic baseboard molding to size. In order to achieve a proper cut, place the plastic baseboard against the wall.
What is the best way to nail PVC baseboards? A PVCcement joint does not require an expansion gap, therefore it may be utilized in any situation. Trimnails made of stainless steel should be used for attaching so that the nails survive as long as the trim. Within two inches of the boards’ edges, nail at least every 18 inches throughout the length of the boards’ whole length. In addition, a screw and plug method can be used.
Installing PVC Trim – Concord Carpenter
Submitted byRobert Robillard on Repairing and remodeling your home Photo: the installation of a mudroom. Note on installation: All of the trim in the article, Installing PVC Trim, is made of Azek PVC trim, unless otherwise stated. Glue was used to join all miters. Expansion joints are positioned on the insidebutt ends and beneath the cover of overlapping boards, and they are disguised with flexible caulking.
PVC Trim – What You Need To Know
A growing number of consumers are demanding that I utilize a PVC product to replace decaying wood in their homes. In these instances, Azek trim boards are recommended and used. My local lumber yard, Concord Lumber, carries the majority of the sizes I want, and I glue up and fabricate any specialized moldings or sizes that aren’t available from their inventory. Azek is a superb wood substitute option for non-stress applications because of its strength and durability. What makes this product so appealing is that it cuts, drills, routs, and fastens in the same way as wood does.
- Many contractors are either unaware of or do not adhere to these procedures.
- Do not use finish, brads, or staples on your project.
- 3.The Cortex fasteners, which are manufactured by Fasten Master, are the best I’ve seen so far.
- I think it’s a really great solution since it covers the fastener heads without the use of caulking, sandpaper, or paint.
- Do not install fasteners more than 2 inches from the end of the boards.
- Use two fasteners for boards that are less than 12 inches broad.
6. Install fasteners every 12″ to 16″ on the oblique axis. To avoid joint separation, use glue to adhere joints together and hold them together with a fastener. 2. Adhere with AZEK adhesive, which has a working time of 10 minutes and is fully cured in 24 hours.
Expansion and Contraction
Many contractors make this mistake when it comes to following the installation guidelines. There is nothing more frustrating than receiving a call back a year later because trim boards have opened up 1/4′′1. AZEK expands and moves differently than wood when exposed to severe temperatures. 2. A basic rule of thumb is that AZEK will move 1/8″ for every 18′ of distance traveled. 3. When building large lengths of fascia, such as 100′ fascias, consider utilizing a solid under fascia as well as construction glue and fasteners to limit movement during the installation process.
Another alternative is to install and glue one joint tightly while allowing one-eighth inch of movement on the other joint.
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