How To Install Interior Doors

Install or Replace Interior Doors

Replace your old, worn-out, or broken inside doors to give your home a fresh new look and improve the value of your property. Interior doors are installed in the following manner. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.

Interior Door Types

If your door frame has been damaged, you will want a prehung door, which includes both the frame and the door itself. In good condition, a slab door (also known as an ablank door, as seen in the photo) will suffice. Whatever kind you choose, there are a range of designs to choose from to complement your interior design. If you’re installing a prehung door, make sure you get the proper swing, which is decided by the positioning of the hinges and door knob. If you’re installing a prehung door, make sure you get the correct swing, which is determined by the placement of the hinges and door knob.

If the door knob is on the left, you’ll need a door that is on the left as well.

Some blank doors swing in only one way, while others swing in both directions.

The following steps will walk you through the process of installing a blank door.

Removing the Old Door

To remove the old door, follow the instructions outlined below.

Marking and Trimming the New Door

To prepare the new door, follow the instructions outlined below.

Determine Hinge Locations and Size the Door

Door hinges are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. For rounded hinges, you may use a router and a hinge template to create mortises in the wood. If your hinges are square, you can cut the mortises with a chisel by following the instructions outlined in the next section.

Install Hinges and Prepare for the Lockset

Installing the new door is simple if you follow these procedures.

How to Replace an Interior Door: Prehung Door Replacement

Time A busy day of work Complexity Less than $20 in intermediate costs


Learn how to install a prehung door by watching this video. We’ll teach you surefire ideas and tactics that will help you produce a terrific job even if you’re a complete beginner in the field of construction.

Tools Required

  • 2×4
  • 4d finish nails
  • 6d finish nails
  • 8d finish nails
  • 2×4
  • Shakes
  • Shims
  • Interior door and trim

Video: How to Hang a Door

Travis Larson, an editor for The Family Handyman, demonstrates how to remove a door and replace it with a new one, or how to reinstall the old one.

Project step-by-step (17)

Check the level of the floor and the alignment of the jambs. Calculate the exact amount by which the floor is off of level. This much of the opposing jamb must be removed in order to level the door in the opening. Hanging a door correctly is one of the most pleasurable chores in the world of home renovation, but it’s also one of the most difficult to get right. If your door is not properly fitted, it may have uneven gaps along the jamb, or it may bind or not latch at all. In this post, we’ll teach you surefire strategies and procedures that you can use every time you need to know how to install a prehung inside door and get outstanding results each and every time.

For your first door, allow around an hour and a half, and after you get the hang of it, your second door will go in twice as quickly.

A straight 7-foot 2×4 and a second 2×4 the width of your opening (Photo 1), both of which should be straight as you sight along the edge, should also be obtained.

Because adding trim is a necessary element of the door installation, make sure you have some matching door trim and a miter saw to cut it. Even though we will not be covering the installation of the lockset in this post, you will need to purchase one for the door.

Pro Tips for How to Install a Prehung Door

  1. A precise level is essential for a successful installation. Check if it is flat by setting it down on a flat surface. Make a note of where the bubble is located. After that, turn the level end to end and look for the bubble. If the bubble does not settle exactly where you want it to, pick a more precise level. Check the length of the jambs on your prehung doors. It’s possible that they’ll be lengthier than you require. It is possible that you may need to cut both sides of the door to reduce the amount of space under it. It is recommended that doors be 1/2 inch above the floor in most circumstances
  2. If your door will be placed between rooms that will be carpeted later, you can raise both jamb sides 3/8 inch above the floor to prevent having to trim your doors
  3. Blocks can be used to level the bottoms of jambs. If you’re installing a door on an unfinished floor and need to leave space under the jambs for carpeting, just place temporary blocks under the jambs while you’re hanging the door to keep them from moving. Make the necessary adjustments to the size of the blocks so that the bottoms of the jambs are on an even plane. According to the thickness of the carpet and pad, it is necessary to provide a gap between the jambs ranging from 3/8 inch to 5/8 inch. Check the plug for damage. When installing a door, make certain that the plug that keeps it in place has a removable plug that can be removed once the door has been fitted. You may be able to reinstall the plug by cutting the plastic strap and inserting it through the doorknob hole, if this is not the case. Far while it’s tough to move a door when the slab is swaying all over the place, it’s even more difficult to install a door that won’t open. It’s also not usually required to use shims on the top doorjamb since the casing will keep the door in place. Aside from that, walls in new homes and expansions can compress as they settle, pushing down on the tops of shims and causing the jamb to bend. Only shim the top jamb if you’re working with a 3-foot-wide door and the top jamb arrives from the factory bent
  4. Otherwise, skip this step.

2nd Step: How to Prevent a Door from Swinging Open

Level the floor

Check the level of the floor with a level. A level should be placed across the aperture, and it should be leveled with one or more shims. Make a note on the shim at its thickest point, and then take a measurement of the thickness of the shim at that location. The precise amount you’ll need to cut off the jamb on the opposite side of the aperture is shown in the diagram. Garage Overhead Door Repairs of the Highest Quality

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Trim the prehung door frame jamb with a jigsaw

With a jigsaw, mark and cut the jamb on the upper side of the door (remove any packaging strips at the bottom of the jambs). After cutting more than 1/4 inch off the jamb, you may need to trim the bottom of the door so that it is in line with the floor slope. Steps for Removing a DoorStep 4

Trim the jamb with a circular saw

You may also use a circular saw to chop down jambs when they are in desperate need of being trimmed down. Install an 80-tooth blade to prevent the wood veneer from being torn out of the timber. To avoid cutting the wrong jamb, make sure to cut the jamb that sits on the high side of the floor. It’s simple to make a mistake. You can see where you marked your shim since it’s the one on the other side of the aperture. As a saw guide, a rafter square is quite useful. The most important step in any door installation is to ensure that the bottom of each doorjamb is at the right height before starting the installation.

It is possible that your latch will not line up if the floor slopes significantly and the jamb isn’t adjusted to accommodate.

Step 5: Checking and Adjusting the Garage Door

Check Your Rough Opening Carefully and Prepare the Door Before Starting

Temporary cleats should be nailed to the wall opposite the door opening so that they may function as stops for the door frame. Shimming the jambs away from the drywall with a stack of three note cards, as illustrated, will guarantee that they are centered in the wall when it is finished. Step 6 in the process of replacing a patio door

Set the door in the opening

Insert the door and frame into the aperture by pushing them together. Open the door and use a shim to keep the bottom edge of the open door firmly against the stops on the other side of the room.

Check the rough opening

Make sure your door will fit into the opening before purchasing it. First, determine the height of the aperture, followed by the breadth at both the top and bottom of the opening. After then, use a level to verify each side. Even though the sides do not have to be absolutely plumb (which they rarely are), they must be near enough to enable enough space for your door to open fully. This means that even if your rough opening is 1/2 in.

larger than your door, but the sides of the opening are each 1/2 in. out of plumb, your rough opening is not large enough to accommodate your door correctly. Finally, check to see if the walls are squared up to each other. How to Clean the Glass on an Oven DoorStep 7

Shim and nail below the bottom hinge

Adjust the bottom of the door frame so that it is approximately 4 in. higher than the floor on the hinge side, ensuring that the hinge side is perfectly plumb, and then nail it in place. Tape your level to a straight 2×4 in the manner pictured. After that, use a shim to straighten the central portion of the jamb before nailing it in place. With your straightedge, measure the whole length of the piece. How to Build a Rustic Barn Door and Hardware from ScratchStep 8

Lock the strike-side jamb in place

Nail a 4-inch 1×2 to the front edge of the jamb with a 4-inch finish nail to hold it in place. Adjust the distance between the door and the strike-side jamb to a consistent 3/16-in. The jamb will remain in this position as long as the block is fastened to the studs. Storage Ideas for Inside Cabinet Doors: 18 Inspiring OptionsStep 10

Break away the shims

With a sharp blade, score the shims several times, and then break them off to create space for the trim to be installed. Step 11: Suggestions for Hanging Doors

Attach the trim

Finish nails in the size of No. 4 are used to attach the trim to the door frame. Finish nails in the size of No. 6 are used to attach the trim to the frame. Throughout this essay, we’ll be concentrating on the installation of conventional prehung doors. With a door jamb that is 4-9/16 inches wide and a thickness of 4-1/2 inches, these doors are designed to fit into a 2×4 wall that measures 4-1/2 inches thick. As a result, the jamb is slightly elevated above the surface of the wall on either side, and any inconsistencies in the trimmer studs of the walls are compensated for by using this method.

  1. The thickness of your wall and the length of your entrance will raise additional problems that we will not address here.
  2. Ideally, it should be 2 to 2-1/2 inches broader than the door opening.
  3. If your rough opening is 32 inches wide, use a prehung door that is 30 inches wide.
  4. Openings with a trimmer stud that is out of plumb by more than 3/8 inch from top to bottom will make it practically hard to install the door in the opening.
  5. Small deviations from plumb are, on the other hand, fairly common.
  6. The majority of installation issues arise as a result of the floor being uneven under the entryway.

As indicated in Photo 1, you must examine the floor with an accurate level to ensure that it is level. Simply follow our step-by-step photographs and instructions for a comprehensive set of instructions.

How Do You Fit the Jamb to Floors of Different Heights?

Cut a 1-foot-long strip of 1/4-inch plywood to the same width as your door jamb, and glue it in place. Dropping the plywood to the high side of the floor and tacking it in place allows you to use your scribe to trace the shape of the floor onto the plywood. Remove the plywood from the jamb, cut the form with a jigsaw, and glue the shape to the bottom of the jamb with wood glue. Using a jigsaw, cut along the lines you’ve drawn. Repeat the process on the other side of the door. In certain cases, you may need to cut the bottom of the door as well if your transition is more than 1/2 inch.

Set the door in place

Temporary blocks should be placed on both sides of the doorjamb to keep it flush with the drywall until the door is permanently fastened to the jamb. Make five blocks ranging in size from 4 to 5 inches out of scrap timber, then join them together with 2-inch 18-gauge brads. Glue three blocks to the latch side and two to the hinge side of the door frame (the door slab keeps the middle of the hinge side rigid). Maintain a safe distance between the blocks and the hinges so that they do not interfere with shimming.

Step 13 of How to Paint a Door

Nail the blocks to the wall

Orient the door such that it is in the center of the opening. Check to see that the space between the door slab and the jamb is uniform on all three sides of the jamb. With good preparation, the gaps will be uniform, the top jamb will be level, and the sides will be plumb if the jambs’ bottoms were properly cut prior to installation. Before fastening the blocks to the wall with a couple of 2-in., 15-gauge finish nails, double-check that the hinge side is plumb on the other side. To begin, nail the hinge side of the door first, and then double-check the gap around the door slab before attaching the blocks to the latch side of the door.

This is the point at which things become serious.

They are both open and closed.

Follow these procedures to ensure that your door installation is flawless.

Secure the door in place

The frame should be centered in the opening. Nail the upper edges of the door frame into place using a shim from either side of the jamb (ensuring that the frame is pressed against the cleats). This means that the jamb should be aligned with your temporary cleats. Take care not to twist the jamb as you nail it in place. Cabinet Doors That Are Simple and QuickStep 15

Check gap at stops

Remove the plug that keeps the door slab in place before placing any shims, and check to see that the door opens and shuts properly. The door should come into contact with the door stop in an equal pattern along the whole length of the door stop’s length. As a result, if one side of the door hits the stop first, you will need to modify the jambs by repositioning one or both of the top and bottom sides of the jambs inward or outward, depending on which section of the door strikes the stop first.

You Should Close Your Bedroom Door at Night for a Variety of Reasons Step 16: Organize your thoughts and feelings.

Shim behind hinges

With all three hinges open, remove the center screw from the top hinge and slide shims behind the empty screw hole, working your way down to the bottom. Fill up the whole space between the jamb and the frame equally, or else you’ll end up pulling the door out of alignment when you put the screw in place. If the framing around the rough opening seems to be twisted in one direction or the other, use shims to ensure that the jamb remains perpendicular to the wall throughout construction. Check to see that the jambs are still flush with the drywall after the shims have been installed (if your walls are plumb).

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Check the space between the door slab and the door stop once more before closing the door.

After that, nail the shims into place with three 2-in.

Step 17: Excellent Tips for Painting Doors

Install longer screws in each hinge

Replace one of the stock screws in each hinge with a longer screw to give the hinge more strength. Drive the screw in very gently for the last few rounds, paying special attention to the jamb and the threads. Avoid sucking in the jamb, since this might affect how straight the door swings open and close. After each screw has been installed, open and close the door to ensure that there are no gaps. In order to ensure proper penetration, ensure that the screws enter the frame by at least 1 inch.

Do not use drywall screws since they are fragile and will not withstand years of usage.

Secure the latch side

Shims should be installed and secured 4 inches down from the top of the door and 4 inches high from the floor. Install the shims in the same manner as you did the hinge portion of the project. Wind-driven slams have caused doors to be slammed shut so fiercely that the jamb on the latch side has been pushed several inches out of alignment. Install a long construction screw beneath the latch plate to avoid this issue from occurring in the future. In the corner of the latch plate area, predrill and countersink a hole to ensure that it does not interfere with the latch plate screws during installation.

Then, after the door is in its final position, nail it in place.

Doors that are sagging or sticking should be repaired.

How to Install a Prehung Door

A door is a very accurate instrument. When it is closed, it should reliably click into place at the latch and clear the jamb before swinging freely on its hinges. To understand why hanging a door is regarded a real test of carpentry expertise, examine the tight tolerances that are required to reach this level of performance: To begin with, Tom Silva, general contractor at This Old House, says, “I didn’t have anything more complicated than a hammer, some chisels, and a screwdriver.” The jamb would be assembled first, then the hinge mortises would be carved by hand, and then the door would be hung separately.

“It took a long time and a lot of patience,” he adds of the process.

What Is a Prehung Door?

A prehung door is a pre-assembled item that includes all of the necessary hardware and a frame, and is ready to be put into a doorway. Purchasing one helps make installation easier and faster, although the phrase “prehung” is a bit of a misnomer in this case. These doors and jambs will still need to be carefully adjusted to compensate for any imperfections in the wall framing. “To put one of them in needs a high level of precision,” Tom explains. “If it is not properly installed, it will not function properly.”

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Ordering Prehung Doors

Carpenters used to be able to quickly modify their work, make modifications, and repair faults back when they constructed the pieces surrounding a door piece by piece. Because the majority of the assembly work is done off-site with a prehung door, a mistake made when placing an order might transform an otherwise perfectly fine unit into a piece of useless scrap metal. Here are two things you may take to avert such consequence. BE AWARE OF YOUR OPENING: Generally speaking, prehung doors are constructed to suit rough openings that are 2 to 21 2 inches larger than the jamb’s corresponding measurements.

  • Examine the trimmers to ensure they are plumb, parallel, and square to the wall as well as the header if an existing opening is there.
  • SPECIFY THE DIRECTION OF THE SWING: It is necessary for your supplier to know which direction you want the door to swing; nevertheless, be wary of the inquiry “Do you want a left-hand or a right-hand door?” That is not to say that the phrases always signify the same thing.
  • Allow that person to figure out which way the door is “handed” on their own.
  • Prehung doors are supported by a jamb that has been “split” into two halves.
  • In order for it to glide over the edge of the main jamb, the split jamb features a groove underneath the stop.

How to Install a Prehung Interior Door

Gregory Nemec is a well-known figure in the world of sports.

1. Check the rough opening

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  • In the entryway, place a 4-foot level on the floor to mark the threshold. If the hinge side is lower than the latch side, put shims under the level nearest the hinge jamb to raise the hinge side up. Make adjustments until the level’s bubble is in the middle
  • Finish nail the shims to the floor to keep them in place. If the latch side is lower, no shims are required
  • Otherwise, shims are required. Make sure the walls and trimmer studs are plumb by using a level or plumb bob to check them. Using a framing square, check the trimmers’ faces to verify whether they are square to the wall as well. Finally, make sure that the trimmers are parallel to one another by measuring between them at the top, bottom, and centre of the hole. Prehung door swing: Getting It Perfect” is a good place to start if the wall is not plumb, or if the trimmers are not plumb, out of square, or not parallel to the wall.

2. Shim the trimmers

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Measure the distance between the bottom of the jamb and the center of each hinge on the hinge jamb. Mark the hinge positions on the hinge-side trimmer by measuring up from the floor (or the top of the shims) and marking the hinge locations on the hinge-side trimmer. Tack the plumb bob to the top of the hinge-side trimmer, then measure the distance between the string and the trimmer at each hinge site with the plumb bob in place. Overlapping shims should be placed where the gap is the smallest. Adjust the thickness of the shims to 1/8 inch and tack them in place with a finish nail. Take the distance between the shims and the plumb bob string and multiply it by two. Shims should be placed in overlapping pairs at the other two hinge points. Adjust the thickness of each pair of shims until the space between the shims and the string is the same as the gap at the first pair. Trim the ends of each pair with a utility knife so that they do not extend past the drywall after they have been secured to the trimmer.

3. Fit door into opening

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Lift the door into the rough opening and tighten the hinge jamb against the shims tacked to the trimmers
  • Then, lift the door into the finished opening. To attach the trimmer to the face of the hinge-side casing, drive an 8d finish nail through the casing 3 inches below the miter and into the trimmer. With your level on the casing’s face, move the jamb in and out until it is plumb. Tack eight-inch finish nails through the casing at the other two hinge places if the wall is plumb and the casing is flat against it. To make the door plumb, use a shim behind the casing at the hinge places if the wall is not plumb and the casing does not rest against it. Using a nail, drive the nail through the case, shims, and the trimmer. Tapered wood wedges should be used to close any gaps between the casing and the wall.

4. Adjust the gap between the door

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Examine the horizontal gap, also known as the “reveal,” that exists between the top of the door and the head jamb. Ideally, it should be consistent in width from left to right and between 1/8 and 3/16 inch broad. Increase or decrease the reveal by pushing the head case up if necessary. Make a mark on the face of the latch-side casing and into the trimmer at the top of the door by driving an 8d nail through it. On the latch side, look for a vertical reveal between the door and the jamb. Its thickness should be comparable to that of a nickel. You may adjust it by hand by grabbing the case and moving the jamb. Open and close the door many times to ensure that its leading edge, the one that rests on the stop, clears the jamb by a consistent 1/8 inch on each occasion. To create the reveal, drive 8d finish nails every 16 inches through the latch-side casing and into the trimmer to secure the reveal. Check to see that the disclosure is consistent from one moment to the next.

5. Anchor the jamb

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  • Insert a pair of shims between the main jamb on the latch side and the trimmer, towards the top of the door opening, to keep the door from closing completely. 8d finish nails should be used to secure them to the trimmer when they are just touching the rear of the jamb and are not exerting any pressure on it. Additional pairs of shims should be nailed a few inches above the base of this jamb, as well as immediately above and below the striking plate to complete the installation. The jamb may bend if these shims were not there.

6. Replace hinge screw

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Remove the middle screw from the top hinge leaf and replace it with a screw that is long enough to pierce the trimmer. Do this on both sides of the hinge jamb. Consequently, sagging and binding of the door are avoided.

if the long screws don’t match the ones that arrived with the hinges, place them below the hinge leaf (see illustration below).

7. Attach the split jamb

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Begin by carefully pressing the edge of the split jamb into the groove in the main jamb, starting at the bottom of the split jamb. Both hands should be used to tap the two jambs together. On both sides of each miter, as well as every 18 inches along the length of the casing, attach the casing to the wall using nails. 8d finish nails should be driven through the stop and into the trimmers to hold the two jambs together. One nail should be driven through each hinge location, one through each shim near the top and bottom of the latch jamb, and one nail should be driven through each shim just above and below the striker. NAILING into the head jamb is not recommended.

8. Mount the latch hardware

David Carmack is a writer and musician who lives in the United Kingdom.

  • Using the screws provided, attach the striking plate to the mortise in the latch jamb on the back of the latch. For larger plates than the mortise, place the plate on the jamb, outline it with a pencil, and chisel to the outline
  • For smaller plates than the mortise Insert the latch bolt into its bore and secure the plate of the latch bolt into the mortise on the edge of the door with the screws provided. If the mortise is too tight, you may modify the size of the mortise in the same way you did with the striking plate. The knobs should be positioned on both sides of the latch bolt, then the connection screws that link the knobs should be inserted and tightened. After you’ve closed the door, listen for the latch to slide into its strike. If the door is rattling, bend the prong on the strike plate slightly toward the stop to alleviate the problem. If the latch does not latch, bend the prong away from the stop until the latch latches. All of the screws should be tightened.

Prehung Door Swing: Getting It Perfect

Gregory Nemec is a well-known figure in the world of sports. Just as it is easier to build a house on a level foundation, it is also easier to hang a door that is level, plumb, and square when the door is installed correctly. However, while these are uncommon characteristics in most ancient buildings (and a sad number of modern ones), the fact that an entrance is misaligned does not imply that the door must be replaced. The key is to make little adjustments to either the aperture itself or your door-hanging method.

  • Simply plumb the hinge and latch jambs with a level or a bob, then secure them in place with shims to complete the project.
  • It is possible to use a split jamb to cover a 2×4 stud wall that is up to 1/2 inch out of plumb.
  • Trimmers that are out of plumb or non-parallel can be compensated for by shims, unless the trimmers are so severe that the door will not close properly.
  • Remove the screws that are holding the drywall to the trimmers, and then use a sledgehammer to coax the trimmer ends into the wall where they belong.
  • If the entrance is too small at the top, or if the wall is coated with old plaster, a sledge will not function properly.
  • TRIMMERS OUTSIDE THE SQUARE: A framing square can be used to determine if the faces of the trimmers are parallel to the surface of the wall.
  • In order to fix this, a third shim need be added to the conventional opposed pair.
  • Keep in mind that if you’ve done this on the hinge side, you should double-check that all three sets of shims are plumb before installing the door.

What to Do After the Door Arrives.

  • Take the length of the head and side jambs into consideration. The comparable measurements in a plumb and square rough opening should be 2 to 21 2 inches longer than in a plumb and square rough aperture. A door might be placed with as little as 1/8-inch space from side to side in the worst case scenario. Also, make sure that the depth of the jambs is equivalent to the thickness of the wall. Check to see that the door will swing in the correct direction after it has been mounted. Ideally, there should be no more than 3/8-inch between the bottom of the door and the finished floor surface. The clearance between the hinge and latch jambs is determined by cutting the ends of the jambs. To ensure that these cuts are safe, be sure to allow for a threshold or thick carpeting before proceeding. Check that the lockset fits properly in the holes that have been drilled in the door. Reboring is an option for holes that are too tiny. Holes that are too large will need to be filled, sanded, and then bored a second time. If at all feasible, have this task returned to the shop that performed the work.
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For more information on how to install an outside prehung door, see How to Install an Exterior Prehung Door.


When it comes to replacing an existing door with a new one, the process is almost as simple as it sounds: you take the old door as a template and cut the new door to size, as well as install hinges and a lockset on it. Then you insert it into the jamb that was previously there. There’s no hassle or fuss. When you have a door that is substantially warped or broken, or when you want to replace all of the doors in your home to increase quality or alter style, replacing the door in an existing jamb is a perfect solution.

The general contractor for This Old House, Tom Silva, was kind enough to walk us through the process. He’s hung and replaced so many doors that he’s lost count of how many he’s done. As a consequence, he’s learned a few methods to make things run more quickly and efficiently.

Step 1

Gregory Nemec created the illustration. Before you begin, take measurements of the old door’s width and height (the thickness of all internal passage doors, with the exception of the earliest, is regulated at 1 3/8 inch). Ensure that you bring these measurements with you when you purchase the new door “blank,” since it will not be enclosed by a jamb or have a hole cut out for the lockset, as it would be if you purchased a “prehung” door. Doors are available in only a few different heights (80 inches is the norm), but they are available in a broad variety of standard widths.

For example, instead of being 30 inches wide, a 3-0 door is 3 feet, 0 inches wide, or 36 inches wide—pronounced “three-oh.”

Step 2

Brian Wilder captured this image. Remove the pins from the hinges from the hinge side of the door while standing on the hinge side of the door. Always begin at the bottom hinge and work your way up so that the door does not fall on you while you are working on it. If a pin won’t come out by hand, carefully tap it out with a hammer and screwdriver until it comes out completely. As you begin to remove the top pin, have a volunteer hold the door open for you. Tip: To avoid loosing the pins, place them back into the hinge leaves on the doorjamb after they have been removed.

Step 3

Brian Wilder captured this image. Remove the lockset (doorknob) and hinges from the old door and place them somewhere safe. If you plan on repeating the lockset, make a note of how it is put together. Place the new door on a pair of sawhorses and place the old door on top of it, making sure that the top end and lockset edge of the old door are absolutely level with the top end and lockset edge of the new door. Make a pencil mark around the perimeter of the old door to show where the new door will need to be cut down to fit.

Step 4

Brian Wilder captured this image. Using a sharp utility knife and straightedge, score the pencil markings on the new door, which will assist to prevent the wood from splintering when you cut it with a circular saw. With the use of a straightedge guide and a circular saw, cut the door to the proper height for the opening. If you need to remove more than 1 inch from the bottom of the door, take half off the bottom and half off the top of the door. In the same way, you may trim the door to its proper width.

Step 5

Brian Wilder captured this image. Placing the old door on top of the new door and aligning them so that all four corners are flat is the final step.

To transfer the positions of the old door’s hinge mortises to the new door, align a combination square with the old door’s hinge mortises. A useful tip is to use a utility knife to mark the cut lines for the mortises; it provides a far more exact line than a pencil and is much faster.

Step 6

Brian Wilder captured this image. Prepare the floor by laying a protective mat down and positioning the new door on its edge so that the hinge arrangements are facing up. After that, chisel off the openings for the hinges (these are called hinge mortises). Holding the chisel vertically, tap it with a hammer to outline the mortise is a good way to start. Then make a sequence of cuts that are as deep as the thickness of the hinge, all at close intervals. When you’re through with the mortise, hold the chisel at a low angle with its beveled face flat on the wood to avoid it from digging too deeply into the wood when you’re finished with it.

Step 7

Brian Wilder captured this image. Test-fit a hinge leaf into the hinge mortises to determine the depth of the mortises; the hinge leaf should be level with the edge of the door. If extra wood is required, use the chisel to remove a little amount of it. Insert the hinge leaf into the mortise with a screwdriver. Pilot holes should be drilled through the screw holes using a drill and a centering bit. Attach the hinge to the door by screwing it in place. Test-fit the door into the aperture to ensure proper fit.

If this is the case, plane the edges.

Step 8

Brian Wilder captured this image. Make a mark on the door edge where the strike-plate hole meets the edge of the door. Position the template that came with the lockset on this mark, then make marks for the doorknob and latch as well as the lockset. Obtain dimensions from the old door if you plan on reusing the existing lockset. Using a 2 1/8-inch hole saw, drill a hole through the doorknob face bore. A 7/8-inch spade bit was used to cut the edge bore of the latch. Allow for drying time after painting or staining the door.

Create a shallow mortise inside the confines of this shape with a chisel.

Step 9

Brian Wilder captured this image. Maintain the door’s position in the opening by interlacing the hinge knuckles. Once all of the hinges are aligned, have a second person assist you in inserting the hinge pins. Check that the door swings smoothly and that the latch engages the strike plate on the doorjamb by opening and closing it many times. If required, adjust the striking plate’s location. Helpful hint: If the door rattles when closed, gently bend out the metal tab that is placed within the strike plate on the inside.

How to Install a Pre-Hung Interior Door

When it comes to installing a pre-hung door, it may be a daunting undertaking for someone who has never done it before, and it can be incredibly aggravating even for a seasoned builder.

Here, we’re going to go over exactly what it takes to install a pre-hung door, how you should go about it, and which method you should employ.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Pre-Hung Door?

The cost to install a pre-hung door can vary significantly depending on the location of the installation, the quality of the door, and the hourly rate of the contractor performing the installation. According to Home Advisor, the national average labor cost in the United States for installing an inside door ranges from $150 to $300 per door. Not to mention the price of the door, which is not included. The cost of an inside door fromLowe’s or Menards can range from $60 to $200, depending on the quality of the construction and the materials utilized.

  • There is a big variation in quality across the different pricing ranges, so be sure you pick the proper combination of quality and affordability for what you’re trying to accomplish.
  • Even though the kind and price of door will provide you with the biggest variety of options, it is critical that your choice is one that will endure for many years to come and will help you avoid many typical door installation difficulties.
  • Your best chance will be to choose someone with years of expertise and a large number of favorable client evaluations on their resume.
  • According to the above-mentioned typical estimates, installing a pre-hung door might cost anywhere from $210 to well over $500.

Install a Pre-Hung Door: Which Method Should I Use?

We’ll next go through the mechanics of how you should go about installing your door, including which approach is the most effective. Installing a pre-hung door is a complicated operation, and getting it correctly the first time is critical to the door’s functionality for many years to come. Traditional techniques of pre-hung door installation demand a high level of expertise and experience in order to be done correctly. The typical contractor can complete the installation of a pre-hung door in 20 minutes to an hour, depending on a variety of criteria, including the quality of the frame.

  • Given the probable length of time that may be required to finish the installation, it would be wise to hire on the basis of cost per door installation rather than hourly rates.
  • The complexity of the installation can also be greatly influenced by the presence of a properly sized trough aperture.
  • After measuring the door and jambs, as well as the rough opening, ensure that there is enough space for the jambs to fit properly with room to spare for adjustments.
  • Following that, you may need to trim the door 1-2 inches from the bottom to make place for carpeting or flooring underneath.
  • If the rough opening is too small, the door frame will be cut.
  • The closer your rough opening is to plumb, the simpler it will be to work with the door.
  • Insert the shims between the door and the rough opening, starting on the hinge side and working your way out.
  • Make certain that the shims are inserted as near to the hinge as possible.
  • This is especially useful if the door is hefty or made of solid core material.
  • Using a shim beneath the low side and reducing the lower jamb of the door on the high side, you may achieve this result in a few minutes.

Getting every side of the door plumb will need some further adjustments. It is important to consider the influence that closing or widening a gap on either side will have on the other side.

After the Shims Are in Place

  1. Remove the center screw from the top hinge on the frame and replace it with a screw that is 2-1/2″ in length to complete the installation. All hinges may be adjusted, but the top hinge in particular must be adjusted to prevent heavy or solid core doors from drooping over time. Install the trim around the window. It is important to ensure that the shims do not extend past the edge of the drywall, as this will result in your trim not fitting firmly against the wall. Lightly sand the door to eliminate any tiny scratches or smudge that have occurred as a result of handling or delivery
  2. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for staining, painting, or applying clear coat. Using a finish on all six sides of the door will help to avoid delamination or warping.

Using an ocillating tool to cut off the shim is recommended, or using a sharp knife, score both sides of the shim before breaking them off. If you want to learn more about shimming doors, see our tutorial on the subject. If it appears that this is a time-consuming and frustrating process for a simple pre-hung door installation, that is precisely what it is: it is. Shims are an antiquated way of installing doors that has remained steadfast in the building industry for far too long due to a lack of willingness to adapt.

An Easier Door Installation: EZ-Hang

The EZ-Hang door installation method consists of seven brackets. It fully eliminates the requirement for shims and eliminates the need for any learning curve associated with the process of installing a door. EZ-Hang is a tool that may be used to quickly and simply install a pre-hung door on both the inside and outside of a building, as well as windows and extension jambs. With this bracket technique, rather than utilizing shims, anybody can easily and quickly install a door in less than 5 minutes, regardless of their skill level.

  • EZ-Hang, in contrast to shims, which take several unpleasant episodes of trial and error, going back and forth between both sides of the door in an attempt to maintain it plumb, requires only three easy steps and no prior knowledge to install.
  • It is now possible to level the top of the door jamb in the same manner as it is to plumb the sides, with practically no modification required thanks to the addition of a seventh bracket.
  • However, with EZ-Hang, the trim is able to rest directly on top of the bracket.
  • When dealing with difficult rough openings, such as those found in older homes, the innovative adjustable slots in the EZ-Hang brackets make them significantly superior to shimming.
  • The following section will show you how to properly install these simple door installation brackets.

How to Install a Pre-Hung Door: EZ-Hang

EZ-Hang, in contrast to shims, needs only three easy actions. This simple door installation approach also eliminates the need for guessing, resulting in clear and simple installation instructions that are simple to follow and understand. There’s no need to cut, bend, or go back and forth between the two sides of the door while using this method. Check out this video to see how to install a door with EZ-Hang:

How to Install Interior Doors

To complete this task, you will need the following tools:

  • The following tools are required: 6′ construction level, hammer, screwdriver, framing square, tape measure, nail set, safety glasses.

What You’ll Need: Supplies Take out the packaging and inspect the door unit in Step 1.

  1. Carefully cut around the present case with a utility knife to remove all of its internal trimming. Set aside the trimmings for later use. Remove the existing door, frame, and jamb from the opening

Preparation of the Rough Opening in Step 2

  1. Temporarily insert the unit into the aperture to ensure that it is properly aligned. It is recommended that the aperture be 1/2″ bigger than the door unit, both in height and breadth
  2. Furthermore, make sure that the wall framework is plumb and square. Use a 6′ level to examine the inside and outside of the hole from top to bottom and from right to left to ensure that the opening is plumb and square on both the inside and outside. Check to see if the floor is level. Before moving on to the next stage, make any necessary adjustments to ensure that everything is square and plumb.

Take note that out of square or out of plumb wall framing issues are one of the most typical causes of door malfunctions. Step 3 – Aligning and securing the apparatus

  1. Place the door unit into the aperture and make sure that the hinge side of the jamb is level. Hinge jambs should be shifted behind each hinge point. Check for plumb and squareness once again. Using 10 finish nails, temporarily fix the hinge jamb into the opening on the left side of the door. At each shim position, drive a nail through the stop, jamb, and shims. It is not necessary to set the nails at this point. To temporarily fix it, level the strike side of the jamb and fasten it in the same manner as the hinge jamb. In the same manner, shim and temporarily fix the jamb head
  2. Check that the door unit is plumb and square once more. Examine the door slab and jamb to ensure that they are both evenly spaced. Examine the operation. Ten finish nails, spaced every 12 inches, should be used to fix the stop, jamb, and shims in their respective positions. Shims should be cut and trimmed. Install the door casing and fix it with ten finish nails every 12 inches along its length. All fastener holes should be set and filled. Your door is now complete and ready for final touches.
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Please keep in mind that proper frame shimming and fastening are crucial to the long-term trouble-free functioning of your machine.

How to Install an Interior Door That Is Not Prehung

You normally use prehung doors that contain the frame when installing interior doors during a renovation or new construction, but there are instances when you just need to replace an old slab door – which is a door that does not have a frame – with an identical new slab door. In order to do this, you’ll need to place hinges on the new door, which will need the creation of mortices – the insets into which the hinges are designed to fit – around the edge of the door. The most difficult element of the job is positioning the mortices in the proper locations to allow the hinges to pair properly.

There are two approaches to taking on this challenge.

If you don’t have access to an existing door, you’ll have to do what Home Decor Bliss suggests and temporarily install the door in the frame in order to mark the locations of the mortices.

Installing Interior Doors the Easy Way

To remove the old door from the frame, first remove the doorknob with a screwdriver so that it doesn’t get in the way. Then pull the hinge pins to bring the door down (if you haven’t already done so), and then detach the hinges and pull them out of the door frame. Set the new door on a pair of sawhorses, then place the old door on top of it. Align the tops of the doors and the hinge sides of the doors with the sides of the hinges. Standard door widths ensure that they will have the same width; nevertheless, the new door may be somewhat longer than the old one due to the standard widths.

Draw lines on the edge of the new door that match to the tops and bottoms of the mortices on the old door, using a combination square and a pencil to ensure that the new door fits properly.

You can paint the door if it’s required (you can also paint it after you’ve hung it), then screw the hinges from the old door onto the new one and then raise the door into the doorway. Align the hinges and insert the hinge pins into the hinges.

Installing Interior Doors the Hard Way

If you don’t have an old door to use as a template, you’ll have to do things the hard way and hang the door from the ceiling (hard because it involves more lifting). To begin, cut the door to the appropriate length. The height of the door opening should be measured with a tape measure; subtract one inch for wiggle space, and measure that distance from the top of the new door. Draw the cut line with a pencil and straightedge, and then cut along the line with a circular saw to complete the project.

Draw lines on the door jamb to indicate the top and bottom of the mortices, then pull the door down and chisel out the mortices for the hinges that were previously marked.

Aligning the Door Hinges

Simply screwing the hinges to the door and jamb will almost certainly result in you being off by just enough to prevent the hinges from aligning properly, and it will be very difficult to reposition the hinges once they have been screwed in place. To avoid this, screw the hinges to the door jamb with the pin connecting both parts of the hinges together. Take your time and shim it up until the hinges fit into the mortices that you carved. Once you have the door in place, leave it in the three-quarter-open position so you can access the hinges.

As long as you hang the door this way, you can be confident that the hinges are in the proper positions.

Replace the door once it has been sanded and finished with paint or varnish by reconnecting the hinges and dropping in the pins.

Things You Will Need

  • The following items are required: paint (if necessary), cedar shims, doorknob, screwdriver, two sawhorses, a combination square, a pencil, a hammer, a chisel, an electric circular saw, a tape measure, and a straightedge

Hanging Pre-Hung Interior Doors

Hanging doors in a production-style environment should take no more than 20 minutes per door. Interior doors are frequently taken for granted, yet they are critical to the overall appearance and functionality of a house or condominium. Doors that have been properly fitted open and close smoothly and remain open when you want them to—and should be able to resist the odd smash from a teenager or a divorce!

Check the Framing

The framework for an inside door is the first step in the installation process. Rough apertures must be the proper size, in the proper location, and framed with high-quality materials. Each entrance should be plumb, level, and in plane with the surrounding wall and the opening it is a part of. Trimmers must be square in the opening and firmly fastened in place, as well as perfectly flush with the neighboring king studs in order to maintain a uniform wall thickness throughout the house. You can always hang a door in a problematic opening, but it will take longer and will be more difficult to trim the door precisely in such a situation.

I usually double-check the drawings thoroughly, making sure that each door will fit properly and that there is enough space left over for trim, light switches, structural columns, and other minor features.

I use a long level to inspect every opening in the home after it has been framed and all of the systems have been roughed in, but before the wall finishes are placed.

Meanwhile, I identify each opening with the door’s nominal size and handling, which I do while I’m doing this. I mark the hinge side and draw an arc on the floor to show the direction in which the door will swing for the benefit of the sub-trades.

Ordering Doors

A master list is used to begin the process of placing an order for pre-hung doors. I assign a number or letter to each door in the home, and to avoid confusion, I also indicate the position of the door in the house. My standard procedure is to begin with a list of generic criteria, such as slab type and finish, jamb material (including style and thickness), hardware, and so on. Individual doors will frequently differ from one another, hence the general specification will be followed by the phrase “unless where stated.” After that, each door is mentioned with specific information about it, including its dimensions (height and width), handling, hardware preparation, and any deviations from the conventional specifications.

Check the Rough Openings

Each door should be opened by doing a last inspection of the aperture to ensure that the door will fit and that there is nothing unique to cope with. If the positioning of the door within the opening is critical—for example, to center it in a space or to line it with another component—make a note of where it must be placed precisely within the opening. Make sure the head jambs of any adjacent doors are lined up by checking the general level of the floor if there are any other doors nearby. Following that, check the level of the floor across the doorway and beneath each jamb to ensure that the aperture is perpendicular to the floor.

The first step in the installation process is to inspect the apertures.

If it is out of whack, the head casings will not line properly unless they are adjusted.

In order to ensure that the floor is level beneath each jamb leg, the final inspection should be performed.

Measure and Cut the Jambs

The length of the jamb legs is solely determined by the height of the door slab and the amount of clearance required above the floor or threshold. In most houses, the height of the jambs does not vary significantly. It is ideal to provide 1/2 to 1 inch of leeway between the top jamb and the header frame to allow for settling as well as to allow the casing to bridge small variances in finish between the jamb and the wall. While leaving the temporary fasteners that hold the door assembly together in place, begin by noting the length of the jamb leg on one side of the door assembly.

Keep the temporary fasteners that hold the door slab in its jamb in place while you are cutting and fitting the door throughout the earliest stages of the project.

Then you’ll need to measure the jamb leg, label it, and cut it to the appropriate length.

Double-check to make sure that the hinge screws haven’t made their way into the rear of the jamb, since this may quickly destroy a completed floor.

After you’ve finished cutting the first edge, flip the door over and repeat the operation with the second leg of the jamb. Always check to see that the hinge screws are not going through the jamb on the opposite side—this may rapidly damage a completed floor!

Level the Door Slab in the Jamb

As long as the door slab is still securely fastened to the jamb, raise the unit into the opening and check that the head jamb is exactly level. If the door isn’t level, lower it again and trim the jambs on each side of the opening. As soon as the bubble is dead center, remove the temporary screws that are holding the door to the jamb and place the unit in the rough aperture. Unless you’ve specified otherwise, center the door in the opening and fix the hinge jamb slightly above the top hinge with a pair of shims and nails to keep it in place.

  • If it isn’t perfectly aligned, remove the door and make the necessary adjustments.
  • Install a single nail through the jamb of the aperture at each of the other three corners in order to secure the assembly in the opening.
  • Instead of using a level to plumb the slab, use shims behind the bottom of the hinge jamb, just below the hinge, to achieve the same result.
  • If the head jamb is level, the door should be plumb as well; nevertheless, it is always a good idea to double-check it with a long level.
  • Then, slightly above the middle hinge, use a shim and a nail to ensure that the jamb remains straight.
  • Shims should be inserted behind the jamb immediately below the bottom hinge, and the shims should be adjusted until the space between the head jamb and door slab is absolutely level.

Fine-Tune the Rest of the Fit

Continue to work on the hinge jamb until it is straight and tight. Then go on to the strike jamb. Adjust the jamb in or out, starting at the bottom, to maintain an equal distance between the door slab and the jamb at all times. Using shims between the jamb and the frame that’s near to the floor, make sure the spacing is even before nailing through the shims. Shims should be inserted directly below the head jamb at the top of the strike jamb. When the hinge jamb is straight and secure, you may go on to the strike jamb and finish the job.

  • After that, place tight shims behind the jamb towards the floor before nailing it down.
  • Next, make sure that the door is striking the stop evenly on both sides.
  • Final step is to shim and secure the middle of the latch jam, which is located immediately above the striker placement.
  • Before attaching the top of the strike jamb to the door slab, check to see that the slab is hitting the stop in an equal pattern.
  • When the door comes to a complete halt, drive extra nails into the jamb to keep it from swinging open.
  • Insert the same amount of shims from each side, with the exception of those needed to compensate for twisted framing.

After each door is hung, use a utility knife or multi-tool to cut the shims level with the frame. After you’ve secured the jamb, go back and cut the shims with a utility knife or a multi-tool to finish the job.

Double Doors: Cut and Set Up

Even though double doors are more difficult to hang than single doors, the overall technique remains the same. The floor was out of level when the double door was installed, as depicted above. Placing a shim beneath the level revealed how much additional material needed to be added to the jamb leg in order to make the head jamb straight. Both jamb legs were then cut after that much had been added to the length of the longer leg measurement. As with a single door, the unit was placed in the opening—this time without the temporary fasteners in place—and the head jamb was examined to ensure that it was properly level.

Sit a shim beneath the level to bring the bubble back to its original position.

Measure the length of the jamb leg, then add the amount of the difference to the length of the leg to get the total length of the leg.

As you would with a single door, place the door in the aperture, but this time without the temporary fasteners in place.

Double doors: Tweaking the fit

Instead of starting with a set of shims on one side, swing the doors open and drive a single 2 1/2-inch 15-gauge finish nail through the jambs at each of the four corners to secure the doors in place. Using these nails, you can keep everything loosely in place while allowing you to modify the jambs as needed. After that, shim the top of each side jamb so that it is centered in the opening. Only one nail should be driven through the shims since it is critical to be able to shift the jambs slightly in order to position the door.

Keep in mind that you will be removing the head-jamb shims later on when the casing has been put on one side of the door.

The first step in installing the double-door unit is to drive a single nail through the jamb at each of the four corners of the opening.

Shim the head jamb until it is exactly straight, using a level as a straightedge to guide you.

Make minor adjustments to the jambs on either side until they are absolutely equal between the slabs and along the top edge.

Verify that the gaps around the doors are uniformly spaced and that the doors are positioned in the same plane when they are closed.

This will ensure that the doors hang in the exact same plane.

If necessary, shimming and adjusting the side jambs should be done while the frame is still in place.

This final step is completed by slightly indenting or expanding all four sides of the box with a block. Following the alignment of all of the components, shim and nail the remainder of the jamb into place firmly. Rick Luck was responsible for all of the photographs.

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