How to Hang a Slab Door
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation A slab door is a type of door that does not have a frame surrounding it. In the case of replacing an old door with the frame remaining in place, or when reusing an old door, such as an antique, slab doors are typically employed. For a slab door to be properly installed, the door must first be fitted to the existing doorframe. After that, you may attach the hardware to the doorframe and hang your new slab door in it.
- If you don’t have the original door, take measurements of the aperture in the doorframe. You should use measuring tape to determine the size of the doorframe opening if you are installing a slab door in a new doorframe or an existing doorframe but don’t have the original door to use as a template. Place one end of the measuring tape in the upper right-hand corner of the doorframe aperture and drag it down to the bottom left. Stop the measuring tape 1/8 inch (0.32 cm) above the ground to ensure that there is enough space under the door to open. Measure the inner width of the doorframe opening, leaving a 1/16 inch (0.16 cm) space on either side of the doorframe opening
- Make a pencil line on the slab door to indicate the size of the aperture for the doorframe using these measurements
- The bottom of the door should be 3 4 inches (1.9 centimeters) clear if your floor is carpeted rather than the standard 1 8 inch (0.32 centimeter) clearance. This will provide greater space for the door to swing open without getting trapped on the carpet
- Also, When you’re marking your measurements on the slab door with a pencil, make sure to use a ruler to ensure that you’re drawing a straight line over the surface. When you plane or cut it down with a circular saw, you’ll be able to create a clean, even cut because of the alignment.
- 2 If you have the original door, make sure the old and new door slabs are aligned. If you are installing a slab door to replace an existing door and you still have the original door, you may measure your new door slab to ensure that it will fit the frame by aligning it with the old door and measuring the distance between the two. This may be accomplished by placing both doors next to each other on their thin, long sides, with the hinges on the old door facing up. Align the doors so that the tops are of the same height, and then use a clamp to secure the doors together.
- It is OK to leave the new slab door in its current condition if both old and new slab doors are of the same size. If the new slab door is longer or wider than the old door, use a pencil to draw the form of the old door onto the new slab door
- If the new slab door is longer or wider than the old door, use a pencil to trace the shape of the old door onto the new slab door
- s3 Trim the slab door so that it fits into the doorframe perfectly. If your slab door is longer or wider than the old slab door or the specs for the doorframe opening, you will need to cut it down to fit the frame opening. If less than 1/8inch (0.32 cm) of the bottom and/or sides of the door need to be trimmed, plane the door to bring it down to size as needed. If you need to trim the door down by more than 1/8 inch (0.32 cm), use a circular saw to cut the door down to the size of the dimensions you marked with a pencil. Advertisement
- 1 Determine the location of the hinges on the door and doorframe. If you still have the old door, re-clamp it to the new slab door if you had to separate them to plane or cut them. Create a straight line from the tops and bottoms of the hinges using a ruler, and then use a pencil to mark the location of the hinges across the new door with a pencil. If you don’t have access to the previous door, you can use a measuring tape to determine the placement of the hinge attachment on the current doorframe
- However, this is not recommended.
- If you are using both a new doorframe and a new slab door, attach the hinges so that the top hinge is 7 inches (18 cm) from the top of the door frame and the bottom hinge is 11 inches (28 cm) from the bottom of the door frame
- If you are using both a new doorframe and a new slab door, attach the hinges so that the top hinge is 7 inches (18 cm) from the bottom of the door frame
- 2 Make the mortises for the hinges in the slab door. After you have identified the locations of the hinges, you may insert one of the hinges in each of the designated locations. Make a score line around the hinge with a utility knife using a sharp blade. Take a measurement of the depth of the hinge and set it away. Then, using a utility knife, make straight notch marks throughout the interior of the hinge region at the depth of the hinge, starting at the depth of the hinge. Pick out the notches one by one with a chisel until the inside hinge region has a shallow indentation (known as a mortise) that allows the hinge to sit flat against the door
- This method should be repeated to cut the mortise for the opposite hinge.
- 3 Attach the hinges to the slab door using the screws provided. Place the hinges on the door in the locations that have been allocated for them. Drill the screws into the hinges and into the slab door using a drill to secure the hinges to the door. Most door hinge kits include all of the screws that you will need to complete the installation. If they don’t have them, you may purchase them individually from any home improvement store.
- You should bring the hinges to the store if you need to purchase screws separately in order to ensure that you obtain the correct size
- If you need to purchase screws separately,
- 4 If there isn’t a doorknob hole, mark the position where the doorknob will go. If you still have the original door, you may use it as a template once again by aligning the two doors and marking the placement of the doorknob with a ruler and pencil. For doors that are not original, measure 36 inches (91 cm) above the bottom of the door using a measuring tape to see how much space you have available. Make a pencil mark on the ground to indicate the position
- Depending on how the door was repurposed or built, the hole for the doorknob may already have been cut. If this is the case, you may skip this step because most doorknobs are 36 inches (91 cm) in height, which is the usual height. Depending on your own preference as well as the specific size of the door, you may need to make adjustments.
- 5 Attach the doorknob to the slab door using a screwdriver. As soon as you have indicated the doorknob’s placement, you may proceed to install the doorknob by drilling the holes for the doorknob and lockset and putting them into the holes you have pre-drilled. If you pick a different type and style of doorknob, the method by which you will drill the holes and attach the doorknob will be different, so make sure to read the installation instructions for that particular doorknob.
- It is possible to utilize the current doorknob or to replace it with a new one that fits into the existing holes while working with a repurposed slab door
- However, this is not recommended.
- 1 If your doorframe is new, you will need to cut mortises for the door hinges. Depending on whether you are attaching your slab door to an existing doorframe or a new doorframe, you will most likely need to cut mortises for the door hinges. To begin, trace the contour of the hinge location on the door using a pencil to indicate where it will be installed. Take a measurement of the depth of the hinge and set it away. Use the utility knife to make lines around the outside of the hinge line and straight notch marks across the inside of the hinge region, depending on how deep your hinge is. Remove the notches with a chisel to provide room for the hinge to rest flush with the surface of the door
- If your doorframe is brand new, you will need to cut mortises for the door hinges first. The door hinges will most likely need that you cut mortises in the slab door frame if you are mounting it to a new frame. Begin by sketching a line with a pencil around the area on the door where you want the hinge to go. Set away the measuring tape after taking the measurement of the hinge depth. Use the utility knife to make lines around the outside of the hinge line and straight notch marks across the inside of the hinge region, depending on how deep your hinge line is. Making space for the hinge to lay flush requires the removal of the notches with a chisel.
- 2 Attach the slab door hinges to the doorframe using the screws provided. Place the door in its proper position within the doorframe. Align the hinge on the doorframe with the hinge mortises on the frame. Next, insert the hinge into the doorframe by screwing it in with a drill.
- It is possible that you may need to use wooden shims to assist keep the door snugly in place while drilling the hinge screws into the door jamb.
- 3Make sure the door is a good fit. Once your slab door has been fastened to the doorframe, open and close the door a few times to ensure that it is properly fitted to the frame. This will assist you in ensuring that the door is in proper operating condition before painting or staining it. 4 To complete the look, paint or stain the slab door. After you have finished installing your slab door, you may paint or stain it to match your decor or to repair any nicks that may have happened during the installation process. You can also opt to paint the door frame if you so like.
- Painting or staining the slab door before hanging it is an option, but it is possible that the paint will be scratched or chipped during the installation procedure. Thus, doing this in the end may save you some time in the long run.
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Things You’ll Need
- The following tools are required: planer and/or circular saw
- Measuring tape
- Wood chisel and drill
- Doorknob kit and door hinges
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Replace your old, worn-out, or broken inside doors to give your home a fresh new look and improve the value of your property. Interior doors are installed in the following manner. Please keep in mind that product pricing, availability, and item numbers may differ from market to market.
Interior Door Types
Replace your old, worn-out, or broken inside doors to give your property a fresh new appearance. Interior doors should be installed in the following manner: Take note that product prices, quantities available, and item numbers may vary depending on where you shop and which market you are visiting.
Removing the Old Door
To remove the old door, follow the instructions outlined below.
Marking and Trimming the New Door
To prepare the new door, follow the instructions outlined below.
Determine Hinge Locations and Size the Door
Door hinges are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. For rounded hinges, you may use a router and a hinge template to create mortises in the wood. If your hinges are square, you can cut the mortises with a chisel by following the instructions outlined in the next section.
Install Hinges and Prepare for the Lockset
Installing the new door is simple if you follow these procedures.
Replacing an Interior Door
The doors in the two upstairs bedrooms of the property that we are remodeling were in desperate need of replacement. I assumed it would be a simple matter to rectify the situation. Not wanting to be bothered with the hassle of removing the frame, I went out and purchased a slab door for less than $40. To put it simply, this is a blank door. There are no handle holes. There are no hinge mortises. It’s understandable, given the possibility that the present hinge and latch locations are different.
Previously unknown to me, Ryobi tools (owned by a personal friend of mine) carries a whole set of tools designed exclusively for door installation.
Continue reading this guide for more information, or watch the episode of Our DIY Life for more.
Check out Our DIY Life on YouTube for sneak peeks at our forthcoming projects, and be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram for updates.
It should be noted that the affiliate links provided in the “materials” and “necessary tools” sections are paid connections. Interested in learning more about how you can support our site and help keep our material free? Learn more about how we can generate money at no additional cost to you.
Step 1: Remove the old door
Take measurements of the door’s width and height, and then purchase a door that is the same size. Interior doors are typically 80 inches in height, however they may need to be reduced in height to suit flooring or low ceilings. Then you may begin by removing the internal door from the frame. This may be accomplished by removing the pins from the hinges. To ensure that you can reuse the same handle and hinges, you’ll want to remove them from the door, too. I made the error of tossing my door out the window, but it would be prudent to save it to serve as a point of reference for the rest of the article.
Step 2: Measure and cut new door to fit
Allow approximately 1/4′′ to 1/2′′ of room between the floor and the bottom of the door, as well as 1/8′′ clearance on the sides and top of the door. Making use of a circular saw and a straight edge guide, if necessary, trim the bottom of the door to the right length. For narrowing the breadth, a hand planer is the most effective instrument, however a sander might also be used. The trimmed side should be on the opposite side of the hinge.
Step 3: Locate and cut mortises forhinges
Place the door in the jamb and use a shim to adjust the position of the door. Then, using a door hinge template and a router, route out the mortises for the hinges at the top and bottom of the hinge positions you marked earlier.
Step 4: Paint
Painting the front door is a good idea right now. It is customary to paint the door the same color as the trim.
Step 5: Installhingesand hang door
Set up the hinges by identifying them and drilling pilot holes at the locations where the screws will be inserted. Then, using the screws that came with the hinges, fasten them in place. Place a shim between the door and jamb and connect the opposite side of the hinge to the door jamb with screws.
Step 6: Drill holes forhandleand latch
Make use of the door lock installation kit to determine the positioning of the handle in relation to the location of the existing strike plate. After that, attach the door lock installation kit to the door and drill the holes for the handle and latch with the hole saw and bits that came with the package. In order to ensure that the pilot hole is completely drilled through, but not the hole saw, it is necessary to drill only a little amount of depth into the hole for the handle. Then, in order to minimize rip out, finish the drilling from the other side.
Step 7: Cut mortise for latch
When using the door latch installation kit, cutting the mortise for the door latch is considerably simpler than you may anticipate it to be. The latch plate is simply hammered into the surface using the contour of the latch plate, which is essentially a blade shaped like the profile of the plate (there are square and rounded variants), and the material is removed with the recessed blade at top of tool.
Step 8: Installdoor handle and latch
Finally, attach the door handle and latch to complete the installation. I was pleasantly impressed by how simple this project turned out to be, as well as by how good it came out.
The location was superb in every respect. Whenever you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask them in the comments section below. Also, don’t forget to submit photographs of your final projects in the comments! ENJOY!
About The Author
I’m a Christian, a parent, a husband, and a former aerospace engineer who lives in the United Kingdom. In my leisure time, I enjoy designing and building furniture for weekend DIYers like me, such as myself. To put it another way, I develop blueprints for really beautiful furniture that is also ridiculously simple to construct. (There is no previous woodworking experience necessary.)
“Well, I’ve got the pickup loaded up and on its way west to the little rural village of Tissora, South Carolina,” RON HAZELTON says. In fact, when I say Karen Harper lives in the country, that is precisely what I mean. I’m on my way to see her, and she happens to live in the country. Greetings, Karen. KAREN HARPER:Hey, Ron. How are you doing? RON HAZELTON: How are you doing today? KAREN HARPER:great It’s to see you again. RON HAZELTON:almost It’s like we’re on a farm here, isn’t it? KAREN HARPER: Yes, we certainly are.
- KAREN HARPER: You’re absolutely correct.
- RON HAZELTON:Wow, that’s impressive.
- Her next effort will be to replace the simple hollow core bedroom doors with something more substantial and more appealing in appearance.
- KAREN HARPER: That’s correct.
- It takes only a few taps on the hinge pins from Karen, and a little more assistance from me, to get the old door off its hinges.
- That’s all there is to it.
- We dismantle the door and place it on top of Karen’s new pine panel door, which has no hardware.
So let’s simply get everything arranged in that location.
KAREN HARPER: I’m flush with the wall of the building.
Once the two doors are properly secured together, we can begin transferring the hinge positions between them.
And then, rather than using a pencil, I’m going to use a knife to cut this out.
Because, as you’ll see later, it really provides me with a location to lay the chisel.
Okay, let’s get this out of the way.
Obviously, our new door is slightly wider than our old door, so I want to trim portion of this away to make them both the same width.
This is a tiny power plane with a single engine.
Not more than an eighth of an inch is required for the take-off distance.
This is the tool that we’ll be using to cut out the huge hole for the latch cylinder that you see here.
However, the thickness of this door will also contribute to keeping this drill vertical.
So I’ll keep an eye on things down here and then I’ll let you know when it’s time to quit.
Push a little harder this time.
Take it out of the bag.
Cleaning up the borders on both sides of the hole is a breeze with this technique.
We’ve devised some temporary fastening jigs to hold the door in a vertical position until the permanent ones can be installed.
Karen uses a spade bit to drill the latch bolt hole in the door jamb and frame.
As a result, we employ the combination square as a guideline once more.
It’s time to go to work with the chisel.
That knife mark we produced earlier now serves as a shallow V into which we can place the chisel blade, allowing us to achieve considerably more precision than we would have achieved with a simple pencil line.
This is the bevel right here, and this is the flat side to the right of it.
We now focus our attention to the hinge mortises, which will be completed after the latch bolt mortise is complete.
You are not digging in at this point; instead, you are simply leveling it off, flattening it off, etc.
KAREN HARPER: Oh, those are quite nice, thank you.
HAZELTON: Come a little bit closer.
The knuckles on the hinge are properly aligned.
Do you want to give it a shot?
It does, after all, sound wonderful.
RON HAZELTON: Are you satisfied with it?
I’ve got a couple more of them for you to complete.
KAREN HARPER: All right, thank you very much. However, I do hope you’ll give it a go since I believe you’ll be able to complete it. RON HAZELTON: KAREN HARPER: All right, all right, nice start. RON HAZELTON: All right. KAREN HARPER: Thank you so much.
How to Replace an Interior Door
It is less difficult than you would imagine to replace an internal door. Learn how to do it yourself with this quick and easy step-by-step instruction manual.
Measure the Existing Door and Doorframe
Take careful measurements of the current door and doorframe, and then remove the hinge pins and push the previous door out of the doorframe to make way for the new one.
Mark and Trim the New Door
If necessary, mark and carefully trim the bottom of the new door to ensure that it fits snugly against the current doorframe. We used a table saw for this project, but a circular saw would also work well.
Use the Existing Door as a Guide
Place the current door on top of the new door to complete the installation. In order to ensure that the top edges of both doors are aligned, use the current door as a reference to mark where the hinges should be placed on the new door.
Mark the Hinge Placement
Mark the top and bottom of each hinge on the new door with a speed square to ensure that they are perfectly aligned.
Measure the Distance from the Edge
Make a note of the distance between the edge of the door and the edge of each of the hinges on the old door. Use the same measurements for each hinge on the new door as you did for the old one.
Trace the Hinges
Line up each hinge inside the lines drawn on the new door and sketch the contour of the hinges.
Score the Mortises
Turning the new door over and scoring the mortise for each hinge with a sharp utility knife will save time and effort later on. Maintaining a firm hand around any curved markings will make it simpler to chisel out such regions later in the process.
Chisel Out the Hinge Mortises
Take your time chiseling out the mortises for each hinge with a steady hand. Continue to score the mortises with a utility knife as you remove layers of wood from the work surface.
Tap the Hinges in Place
Check your progress as you chisel out the mortises at a regular interval. As you tap the hinges into place, lay a piece of wood behind them to protect them.
Use a Door Lock Installation Jig
In order to bore holes in the slab for the latch and lever, we employed a door lock installation jig to accomplish so. The one seen in the photo attaches to the side of the door with screws and comes with two hole saws as standard.
Bore Holes for the Latch and Lever
Make a mark on the current door to use as a guide for measuring the distance between the top of the door and the middle of the latch. Then align your door lock installation jig with the mark you made earlier. Bore holes for the latch and lever with the hole saws that come with the kit.
Remove the hole saw from the door after you’ve sliced approximately 3/4 of the way through it for the lever, then cut the rest of the way through from the underside. This will aid in preventing tearout, which might result in damage to your new door.
Mortise the Latch Plate
The jig we used came with a helpful template and cutting tool for mortising the latch plate, which we utilized to great effect. While creating the contour for the mortise, the bit removed a little amount of material.
Chisel Out the Latch Plate Mortise
The remainder of the material for the latch plate mortise should be removed using a sharp chisel. Following the completion of all mortises, paint all exposed wood with a coat of paint that matches the color of the door.
Install the Latch and Lever
In accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, screw the latch and lever into place.
Screw on the Hinges
Center each screw hole and then screw the hinges into place with screws that you marked out before. Make use of a self-centering hinge bit to guarantee that the screws remain centered as they are driven in place. Install the new door into the doorframe after that. Then repeat these processes for each of your new inside doors that you want to install.
How to Hang a New Door
Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family As a result of the current door serving as a template, it is significantly simpler and less expensive to replace a door in an existing door frame than it is to remove the trim and frame and replace the door with a prehung one.
Video: How to Hang a Door
Place the top and hinge edges of both doors in a precise alignment before clamping them together.
Photo 2: Transfer the hinge locations
Transfer the hinge locations from the old slab to the new slab using a speed square and a sharp pencil.
Photo 3: Trace the hinge
Using tape, secure the hinge in place while you trace the remainder of the hinge’s outline. Make certain that the distance between the edge of the door and the edge of the hinge is the same (the same as it was on the old door).
Photo 4: Chisel and slice
Remove the aperture by chiseling it out, saving the corners for last. Use a sharp utility blade to score around the radii of the corners after that. With the chisel, pry the corner slug out of the way. Because those puppies can fit right through a hollow-core door, the youngsters shouldn’t have been playing floor hockey indoors with a real puck in the first place. However, the damage has already been done, and someone (i.e., you!) will have to repair the door. There are two options available to you.
- Alternatively, you may save time and money by placing a blank door slab in the existing jamb and leaving the trim in its original position.
- All you’ll need is a hammer and chisel, some clamps, a square, a drill, and a hole saw to get the job done.
- Because the sizes are all standard, you should have no trouble finding a replacement at your local home center.
- After that, indicate the location of the new slab (Photos 2 and 3).
- As soon as you’ve completed mortising the hinges, lift the door up and drill the lockset holes at the top.
- Install the new door’s hinges and hang the door in the desired location.
- It’s time to move on to the next thing on your to-do list.
Required Tools for this Project
Make a list of all of the equipment you’ll need for this DIY project before you begin; you’ll save both time and frustration this way.
Required Materials for this Project
Preparing all of your stuff ahead of time can save you time and money on last-minute buying visits. Here’s a list of things to do.
How to Install an Interior Door That Is Not Prehung
You normally use prehung doors that contain the frame when installing interior doors during a renovation or new construction, but there are instances when you just need to replace an old slab door – which is a door that does not have a frame – with an identical new slab door. In order to do this, you’ll need to place hinges on the new door, which will need the creation of mortices – the insets into which the hinges are designed to fit – around the edge of the door. The most difficult element of the job is positioning the mortices in the proper locations to allow the hinges to pair properly.
There are two approaches to taking on this challenge.
If you don’t have access to an existing door, you’ll have to do what Home Decor Bliss suggests and temporarily install the door in the frame in order to mark the locations of the mortices.
Installing Interior Doors the Easy Way
To remove the old door from the frame, first remove the doorknob with a screwdriver so that it doesn’t get in the way. Then pull the hinge pins to bring the door down (if you haven’t already done so), and then detach the hinges and pull them out of the door frame. Set the new door on a pair of sawhorses, then place the old door on top of it. Align the tops of the doors and the hinge sides of the doors with the sides of the hinges. Standard door widths ensure that they will have the same width; nevertheless, the new door may be somewhat longer than the old one due to the standard widths.
Draw lines on the edge of the new door that match to the tops and bottoms of the mortices on the old door, using a combination square and a pencil to ensure that the new door fits properly.
You can paint the door if it’s required (you can also paint it after you’ve hung it), then screw the hinges from the old door onto the new one and then raise the door into the doorway.
Installing Interior Doors the Hard Way
If you don’t have an old door to use as a template, you’ll have to do things the hard way and hang the door from the ceiling (hard because it involves more lifting). To begin, cut the door to the appropriate length. The height of the door opening should be measured with a tape measure; subtract one inch for wiggle space, and measure that distance from the top of the new door. Draw the cut line with a pencil and straightedge, and then cut along the line with a circular saw to complete the project.
Draw lines on the door jamb to indicate the top and bottom of the mortices, then pull the door down and chisel out the mortices for the hinges that were previously marked. You’re almost finished with the hinges, but don’t put them in just yet.
Aligning the Door Hinges
Simply screwing the hinges to the door and jamb will almost certainly result in you being off by just enough to prevent the hinges from aligning properly, and it will be very difficult to reposition the hinges once they have been screwed in place. To avoid this, screw the hinges to the door jamb with the pin connecting both parts of the hinges together. Take your time and shim it up until the hinges fit into the mortices that you carved. Once you have the door in place, leave it in the three-quarter-open position so you can access the hinges.
As long as you hang the door this way, you can be confident that the hinges are in the proper positions.
Replace the door once it has been sanded and finished with paint or varnish by reconnecting the hinges and dropping in the pins.
Things You Will Need
- The following items are required: paint (if necessary), cedar shims, doorknob, screwdriver, two sawhorses, a combination square, a pencil, a hammer, a chisel, an electric circular saw, a tape measure, and a straightedge
How to Install a Slab Door
The thing with interior doors is that they don’t have to be plain and uninteresting. When we began renovating my home office, it presented an excellent chance to incorporate a whimsical door into the hallway. Even though this door frame had already been constructed, there had never been a door installed in this space before, so we were beginning from zero and selecting exquisite knobs and hinges to turn it all into a stunning focal point of the area! There may be affiliate links in this post because it was sponsored by Schlage.
Please go to our disclosure page for further information.
In our situation, we just required a door because the jamb and casing for the door were already in place.
Materials Needed to Install a Slab Door
- A circular saw or track saw
- A straight edge
- A measuring tape
- And other tools. Installation jig for door knobs (optional, but makes installation of knobs quick and simple
You may also purchase doors that are already pre-hung in a door jamb/casing and are ready to be put into a framed opening. However, because we already had the jamb done, we decided to go with a slab door instead.
How to Install a Slab Door
Although our casing had already been fitted, if you need to do so as well, you may follow this excellent instruction. Check to see that your casing is level; if it is not, you may have a difficult time getting your door to open and close smoothly.
Taking Measurements for Knobs and Hinges
For starters, measure the width of your door jamb to decide the size of your slab door. Standard widths for internal doors are 24”, 28”, 30”, 32”, and 36′′ in width. All corridor doors must have a minimum height of 80 inches to be considered safe. As you can see from our extremely detailed designs above, we need a door that was 32 inches wide by 80 inches tall. The following step is to determine the appropriate knob height for the door. Typically, door knobs are mounted around 36 inches above the floor.
Decide on the kind, style, and position of your hinges.
We settled on three hinges for this door because it is a solid 32′′ wide MDF door with glass (which makes it a little heavier).
Source: Source: You may use the following instructions to help you choose the height and placement of your hinge (keep in mind that the striker plate will be determined by your knob height and may differ from the dimensions shown below): Source:
Installing Knobs and Hinges
With your hardware picked, you can now be ready to begin installing your hinges and slab door, which will take around one hour. The bottom of our door had to be trimmed down by 1 inch in order to get the required clearances around the doorframe. The following step is really critical. We’re taking measurements for all of the hinges and marking them on the wall. If you make a mistake when marking them, it might cost you the entire door, so measure, measure again, and double-check! Remove the material from the area where you will attach your hinge using a router or a chisel; only remove enough material to allow your hinge to mount flush with the face of the door jamb or door.
- Individually attach each side of the hinge to each of the elements (remove the pin to separate the pieces).
- From the top left corner to the bottom right corner After you’ve finished installing the door, you may go on to the knob.
- Using the knob jig, you can rapidly identify the holes for the knob and the latch on the knob and latch assembly.
- As soon as you’ve cut everything, you can put your knob and hardware in place and test your door.
Our Installed Modern Slab Door
I couldn’t be more pleased with my door selections today! Everything is in the details, and these matte black hinges and knobs make all the difference in this room, bringing a touch of class and refinement to the whole look.
- The following tools are required: router or chisels
- Circular saw or track saw
- Straight edge
- Measuring tape Installation jig for door knobs (optional, but makes installation of knobs quick and simple
- Although our casing had already been fitted, if you need to do so as well, you may follow this excellent instruction. Check to see that your casing is level, as if it is not, you may have a difficult time getting your door to open and close smoothly. To establish the width of your slab door, take a measurement of your door jamb. Standard widths for internal doors are 24″, 28″, 30″, 32″, and 36 inches wide. All passage doors must have a minimum height of 80 inches
- In our situation, this meant that we required a door that was 32 inches wide and 80 inches tall. Determine the knob height or set the knob height for the door. The International Building Code specifies a doorknob height of between 34 and 48 inches above the completed floor, depending on the kind of door. Typically, door knobs are installed 36″ above the floor’s level. Decide on the kind, style, and position of your hinges. A typical interior door has two or three hinges
- You may use the information in the post to help you choose the height and position of your hinges (keep in mind that the striker plate will be determined by your knob height and may differ from the dimensions indicated)
- With your hardware picked, you can now be ready to begin installing your hinges and slab door, which will take around one hour. Take a measurement from the inside of your door jamb. You’ll want a 1/16″ to 1/8″ space around the perimeter of your door. Make any necessary adjustments to the door height
- We indicated the locations of the three hinges on the casing and on the slab door. You’ll want to pay close attention to how your door opens and closes in order to ensure that you mark the positions and sides of the door appropriately. Because this step is crucial and will decide how effectively your door will mount to the door jamb, double-check your measurements. Remove the material from the area where you will be mounting your hinge with a router or a chisel. Remove only enough material to allow your hinge to mount flush with the face of the door jamb or door
- Do not remove more than is necessary. When your door is finished, paint it with one or two coats of paint before installing it. You may now attach your hinges to the slab door and to the door jamb after you have removed the excess material. Individually attach each side of the hinge to each of the elements (remove the pin to separate the pieces). It is likely that you will require two people: one to keep the door open and another to insert the pins into the hinges of the door. After you’ve finished installing the door, you may go on to the knob. We make use of a slickknob jig to assist with the installation of the door knob and the striker plate on the door. It locates the holes for the knob, latch, and striker plate in a short amount of time. To begin, mark the height of the knob (the distance from the floor to the center of the handle) along the edge of the handle of the door. Using the knob jig, you can rapidly identify the holes for the knob and the latch on the knob and latch assembly. It will also transfer the location of the knob onto your door jamb for the striker plate, if you are using one. Use a chisel or router to remove the excess material from the striker plate (for the door) and latch plate (for the door jamb) after they have been marked out
- Once the striker plate and latch plates have been marked out, use a chisel or router to remove the excess material from the striker plate and latch plates (for the door). As soon as you’ve completed your cuts, you can attach your knob and hardware and check to see that your door opens and shuts smoothly.
Check out the entire home office remodel to see all of the sources and the complete reveal! In addition, if you’re searching for another excellent money-saving idea, check out these wood-wrapped floating shelves! (This is an IKEA hack!)
How to Install a New Interior Door
Tom Silva, general contractor for This Old House, demonstrates how to repair an internal door in this instructional video.
Steps for Installing an Interior Door
- Close the old door and measure up 12 inches from the threshold, marking the door with a pencil
- Remove the hinge pins and the old door will come down. Remove the lockset from the old door by unscrewing it. Place the old door on top of the new door, making that the tops and hinge edges are flush. Find the 12-inch markers on the original door and take a measurement down to 1134 inches. a new door should be marked
- Using a combination square, transfer the hinge and lockset locations from the old door to the edge of the new door. Cut hinge mortises using a hammer and chisel to fit the hinges. Using screws, insert hinges into mortises on each side of the door edge
- Pull pins to separate hinge leaves. Using a circular saw and a straightedge, cut the door to the desired height. Screw the remaining hinge leaves to the mortises in the doorjamb, using shims if required to keep the hinges flush with the doorjamb. Attach a hole-boring template to the door so that the lockset holes may be drilled out. A 218-inch hole saw is used to cut a hole through the face of the door for the doorknob. Bore a latch hole in the edge of the door with a 1-inch hole saw
- Make a shallow mortise for the lock using a hammer and chisel
- Then, insert the latch. Replace the lockset with a new one. Hang the door with the hinge pins in place and verify the swing and closing
- And Remove the door, prime the top and bottom to keep moisture out, and then paint it.
When it comes to replacing an existing door with a new one, the process is almost as simple as it sounds: you take the old door as a template and cut the new door to size, as well as install hinges and a lockset on it. Then you insert it into the jamb that was previously there. There’s no hassle or fuss. When you have a door that is substantially warped or broken, or when you want to replace all of the doors in your home to increase quality or alter style, replacing the door in an existing jamb is a perfect solution.
He’s hung and replaced so many doors that he’s lost count of how many he’s done.
Gregory Nemec created the illustration. Before you begin, take measurements of the old door’s width and height (the thickness of all internal passage doors, with the exception of the earliest, is regulated at 1 3/8 inch). Ensure that you bring these measurements with you when you purchase the new door “blank,” since it will not be enclosed by a jamb or have a hole cut out for the lockset, as it would be if you purchased a “prehung” door. Doors are available in only a few different heights (80 inches is the norm), but they are available in a broad variety of standard widths.
WARNING: Door manufacturers often use abbreviations to define the width of a door. For example, instead of being 30 inches wide, a 3-0 door is 3 feet, 0 inches wide, or 36 inches wide—pronounced “three-oh.”
Brian Wilder captured this image. Remove the pins from the hinges from the hinge side of the door while standing on the hinge side of the door. Always begin at the bottom hinge and work your way up so that the door does not fall on you while you are working on it. If a pin won’t come out by hand, carefully tap it out with a hammer and screwdriver until it comes out completely. As you begin to remove the top pin, have a volunteer hold the door open for you. Tip: To avoid loosing the pins, place them back into the hinge leaves on the doorjamb after they have been removed.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Remove the lockset (doorknob) and hinges from the old door and place them somewhere safe. If you plan on repeating the lockset, make a note of how it is put together. Place the new door on a pair of sawhorses and place the old door on top of it, making sure that the top end and lockset edge of the old door are absolutely level with the top end and lockset edge of the new door. Make a pencil mark around the perimeter of the old door to show where the new door will need to be cut down to fit.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Using a sharp utility knife and straightedge, score the pencil marks on the new door, which will help to prevent the wood from splintering when you cut it with a circular saw. With the help of a straightedge guide and a circular saw, cut the door to the proper height for the opening. If you need to remove more than 1 inch from the bottom of the door, take half off the bottom and half off the top of the door. In the same way, you may trim the door to its proper width.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Placing the old door on top of the new door and aligning them so that all four corners are flat is the final step. To transfer the positions of the old door’s hinge mortises to the new door, align a combination square with the old door’s hinge mortises. A useful tip is to use a utility knife to mark the cut lines for the mortises; it provides a far more exact line than a pencil and is much faster.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Prepare the floor by laying a protective mat down and positioning the new door on its edge so that the hinge arrangements are facing up. After that, chisel off the openings for the hinges (these are called hinge mortises). Holding the chisel vertically, tap it with a hammer to outline the mortise is a good way to start. Then make a sequence of cuts that are as deep as the thickness of the hinge, all at close intervals. When you’re through with the mortise, hold the chisel at a low angle with its beveled face flat on the wood to avoid it from digging too deeply into the wood when you’re finished with it.
With a little touch of the hammer, chip away at the waste wood a little bit at a time, until it is completely gone.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Test-fit a hinge leaf into the hinge mortises to determine the depth of the mortises; the hinge leaf should be level with the edge of the door. If extra wood is required, use the chisel to remove a little amount of it. Insert the hinge leaf into the mortise with a screwdriver. Pilot holes should be drilled through the screw holes using a drill and a centering bit. Attach the hinge to the door by screwing it in place. Test-fit the door into the aperture to ensure proper fit.
If this is the case, plane the edges.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Make a mark on the door edge where the strike-plate hole meets the edge of the door. Position the template that came with the lockset on this mark, then make marks for the doorknob and latch as well as the lockset. Obtain dimensions from the old door if you plan on reusing the existing lockset. Using a 2 1/8-inch hole saw, drill a hole through the doorknob face bore. A 7/8-inch spade bit was used to cut the edge bore of the latch. Allow for drying time after painting or staining the door.
Create a shallow mortise inside the confines of this shape with a chisel.
Brian Wilder captured this image. Maintain the door’s position in the opening by interlacing the hinge knuckles. Once all of the hinges are aligned, have a second person assist you in inserting the hinge pins. Check that the door swings smoothly and that the latch engages the strike plate on the doorjamb by opening and closing it many times. If required, adjust the striking plate’s location. Helpful hint: If the door rattles when closed, gently bend out the metal tab that is placed within the strike plate on the inside.
Blog – Pre-Hung Doors vs. Slab Doors
Posted by an anonymous visitor Is it time to replace one of the inside doors in your home? Are you considering purchasing a door for your new house and have begun researching the many types of doors available? Having trouble picking between pre-hung doors and slab doors? Let us help you decide. Due to the fact that both types of doors are quite good and provide a wide range of benefits, we are here to assist you. We’ll advise you on when pre-hung doors are a better choice and when slab doors are a better choice for your home.
What is a Pre-hung Door?
It is a sort of door that is pre-assembled when it is purchased. In addition to being a self-contained unit, it comes with a frame that has already been fastened to a concrete slab.
It includes everything you’ll need to get it up and running right away. The hinges are already in place, and the door may be opened and closed at this point. All that is required is the installation of the doorknob. The pre-hung door unit is composed of five major components:
A pre-drilled hole for the doorknob is included.
The following are some of the most notable advantages of pre-hung doors:
- The door is ready to be installed
- The installation process is quite simple
- The hinges are already attached to the frame
- You won’t have to cut mortises
- It comes with all of the essential hardware
- All you have to do is secure them in place.
The use of pre-hung doors makes it more easier and faster to complete new building work when it is required. Because it comes with a frame, you may simply put it in an open and exposed area because of the frame’s design. Pre-hung doors are also popular since they eliminate the need to construct the door frame from the ground up. If you discover that the current door frame in your home has already been damaged and that it will be difficult to install a slab door in its place, it is advisable to have the entire door area removed rather than repairing it.
Additionally, pre-hung doors are regarded an excellent alternative for the exterior of the residence.
Installing an insulated outside slap door might be difficult if you don’t have much expertise with this type of door.
The following are some of the most notable disadvantages of a pre-hung door:
- Compared to a slab door, it is more costly. It may require changes in order to fit correctly. It is significantly heavier than a slap door, making it difficult to manage on one’s own.
When compared to a slab door, a pre-hung door is significantly more costly. In fact, if you choose to purchase a slab door and other materials, you may save a significant amount of money. One of the most significant disadvantages of a pre-hung door is that it is heavy and difficult to manage. A pre-hung door is large and heavy, weighing between 50 and 100 pounds on average. Despite the fact that installing a pre-hung door is rather simple, it is still necessary to ensure that it is properly positioned, which may necessitate a few minor changes after the initial installation.
What is a Slab Door?
It is a plain, stripped-down door that does not come with a frame or any other decorative elements. It is common for it to not have a cutout for the bolts or hinges on it. It can be made of wood, fiberglass, or steel and be rectangular in shape. The majority of these doors are flat or paneled in design. As a result, installing a slab door may prove to be a difficult task for you. Take into consideration the fact that it does not include a frame, hinges, or any of the necessary hardware. A slab door might be a good choice if you’re seeking for something really unique.
- When compared to a pre-hung unit, a slab door is less expensive
- It allows you to install historical doors
- The door provides you greater choice in terms of appearance, size, and design
- They are lighter and simpler to handle
- And they are more durable.
In the event that saving money is one of your key goals, a slab door is an excellent choice. This door is a good choice for an inside door since it allows for greater design flexibility and does not pose a problem with regard to waterproofing. Although a slab door demands more time during installation due to the necessity to construct its frame, there is no disputing that it allows you to express yourself more freely – something that a pre-hung door does not allow you to accomplish.
- It necessitates carpentry
- You may want expert assistance in building the frame and installing it
- Mortises must be cut
- And it necessitates the use of tools.
Slab door installation requires plenty of skill as well as a steady hand and is not for the faint of heart. The installation of a slab door is more convenient if you are making one-for-one installations. This is due to the fact that the new door has the same size and configuration as your existing door.
However, if there is any variance in the size and form, it might take a significant amount of your time to complete the project. If you are planning on installing slab doors throughout your entire home and do not have the necessary knowledge or abilities, it might be quite expensive for you.
When Should You Choose A Pre-Hung Door?
The installation of pre-hung doors is not a bad idea if you’re planning a complete remodeling of your home. They are long-lasting and would save you a significant amount of time. In the event that you need to replace your outside door, a pre-hung door may be a wonderful alternative for you to choose from. Last but not least, if the present door frame is significantly damaged or rotted, you might consider installing a pre-hung door. It is recommended that you reuse the damaged or rotted frame.
When Should You Choose A Slab Door?
Slab doors are a good choice if you want to save money and replace the doors in your home without completely depleting your savings account. If the frame is in good enough condition, you can replace it with a slab door of the same size if the frame is in poor condition. If you don’t mind putting in a little more effort, slab doors are a good choice. They’ll save you a lot of money, and you may also choose vintage doors if you want to save even more money. Have a question you’d like to ask? You may go through our selection of Pre-hung Doors and Slab Doors, and if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us at any time of day or night.