How To Repaint Interior Doors

How to Paint a Door: My Best Tips for Painting Interior Doors!

Do you want to know how to paint a door like a professional? Painting interior doors is a snap when you follow my simple step-by-step instructions, and you’ll achieve the professional finish you’re after in no time! The previous two residences we’ve lived in were older homes with doors that were yellowed and in poor condition, so as I redecorate each room, I also paint the doors to match. Isn’t it amazing how much of an improvement a fresh coat of paint can make? This is especially true if you’re also changing out the hardware!

Also, I’ve tried with many painting equipment and processes over the years and have finally worked out what works best, so now I’m going to share my tips and tricks for painting inside doors like a master!

1. Choose an Interior Door Paint Color

If you’re painting your door white and you have white trim around it, I recommend that you use the same paint color and finish as the trim surrounding your door. Some of my favorite whites for trimwork and doors are Benjamin Moore’s Cloud White and Dove White, both of which are available in semi-gloss or satin finishes. You could also want to think about painting your doors a different color than white – interior doors in dark black or gray are a stunning option! A dark gray (Benjamin Moore Charcoal Slate) was just painted on the door that leads from our kitchen to the garage, and I really adore it.

Listed below are my top six interior door paint colors, in no particular order: Benjamin Moore is the designer of the whites.

Benjamin Moore Cloud White is a color that seems to be cloudy (Cloud White has a bit less yellow undertone) Grays in the light to mid-tone range: Sherwin-Williams Repose Gray and Benjamin Moore Charcoal Slate are two examples.

Benjamin Moore Wrought Iron are examples of dark grays.

2. Gather Your Painting Tools

You’ll just require a few more items in addition to your paint to complete your door painting project, which include the following: If it’s an ancient door with nicks, I recommend using wood filler (which is my favorite because it doesn’t dry out as soon as filling in a conventional container). as well as a putty knife Tack cloth (I use 150 grit and 220 grit) and sandpaper Drop cloths made of canvas or plastic can be used to protect your floor (I usethat you can wash and reuse) Roll of painter’s tape, such asUtility knife, such asPaintbrush –this is my favorite because it works with both oil and latex paints and is inexpensive.

4′′ woven rollers with a 1/4′′ nap, such as, or 4′′ foam rollers, such as, are also effective options. For 4′′ rollers such as Mini roller trays, there is a roller handle for them.

3. Prep Your Door for Painting

Preparation is always the most important step in the completion of any painting project. You have the option of painting your doors while they are still in place or removing them and painting them on sawhorses. Alternatively, if your door already has knobs, I recommend that you remove them since it is much easier than painting around the knobs. If you wish to keep the knobs on, use painter’s tape to cover the knobs and the hinges on your cabinet. The door hinges are made with a utility knife, which I delicately trace the exterior of the hinge with while cutting the tape as I go: For older doors, the first step is to fill up any gouges or defects with wood filler and sand those areas until smooth (I use 150 grit sandpaper for this), and then gently sand the whole door with fine grit (220) sandpaper before painting it.

Note: If your door was previously painted before to the 1980s, it is possible that the paint contained lead, which you would not want to sand without taking adequate care to avoid exposure to lead.

The following step is to prime your doors if they are required.

  • Suppose you’re dealing with a brand new door that hasn’t been primed yet. You’re painting a door with a conventional latex paint over a door that was previously coated with an oil-based paint, and you’re having trouble. What is the best way to tell if your door has been coated with oil-based or latex paint in the past? Using an old rag, soak it in rubbing alcohol (I use an old black cloth if it’s white paint so it’s easier to notice) and rub it against your door — if paint comes off on your rag, it’s latex
  • If it doesn’t, it’s oil-based.

If any of the following conditions are met, there is no need to prime:

  • The doors you’re dealing with are brand new and pre-primed. You are painting over latex paint on a door that has already been painted over with latex paint
  • It appears that you are applying Benjamin Moore Advance paint over a previously painted door
  • This paint can be applied over latex or oil-based paint and is excellent at not leaving roller or brush traces, making it my go-to paint for trim and doors.

Priming should be done in the same order (edges first, etc.) as painting (as I’ll discuss in more detail below).

3. Paint Your Paneled Door in This Order

It’s time to get to work painting! However, while many people have success painting doors with only a brush, I like to use a combination of a brush and a tiny roller since it allows me to do the work much more quickly and with a much more smoother finish. Rather of just painting the door from top to bottom, paneled doors might benefit from being painted in a certain order in order to get the greatest paint finish. The following is the sequence in which the panels should be installed on a conventional 6-panel door: 1.

  • 2.
  • My preferred method of painting the recessed molding portions is with a 1 1/2-inch brush, followed by a 4-inch roller for the flat surfaces in the middle.
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5.

4. SandRecoat

Allow the paint to dry (if you’re working with Benjamin Moore) when you’re finished. Please keep in mind that it will take longer to cure than usual), give your door a fast, very light sanding with 320 grit sandpaper, wipe the sanding residue with a tack cloth, and then add a second coat of paint. Use sawhorses to paint one side of the door at a time. Allow at least 24 hours for the paint to cure before flipping the door over on its sawhorses and continuing the process for the other side. Cover your sawhorses with a towel to prevent the freshly painted door from adhering to them during installation (and make sure that the cloth you use is smooth with no texture to it, or you could end up with a textured pattern in your door once it comes of the sawhorses).


However, I hope you’ve gained some useful information to use on your next door painting endeavor. Please let me know if you have any more queries! In addition, if you want to be sure you can locate this post again in the future, you may pin the image below: XOXO,

16 Pro Tips for Painting Interior Doors

17th of January Are you thinking of painting an internal door? Whether you remove the door off its hinges or leave it in place will be a decision to make, and there are advantages and disadvantages to both options. In any case, the advice provided here, which was compiled by expert painters and interior designers, will assist you in completing every area of the project with relative ease, from color selection to tool selection to key prep and painting procedures. So continue reading to learn how to master the techniques and get clean, gorgeous results on any interior door in your home.

1. Determine the previous paint type.

2nd of February, 2017 Before applying a new coat, determine if you’ll need to prime the door first by examining the type of paint that’s existing on the surface. Using rubbing alcohol, dampen a cloth and brush it on the inside of the door. If the paint transfers to the cloth, it indicates that the surface has been painted with a latex-based product, and no priming will be required. This indicates that you’re working with an oil-based paint, and that you’ll need to prepare the surface beforehand if you want to use a newer latex recipe.

Another reason for determining the type of old paint is the potential health hazard posed by lead.

Lead may be absorbed by the body, causing organ and brain damage.

If this is the case, you will need to proceed with greater caution and professional knowledge while sanding and removing it.

2. Purchase quality tools and materials.

3rd of March, 2017 To achieve professional results, you’ll need to use high-quality equipment. To paint the door and trim, spend at least $10 on a high-quality 2- to 212-inch sash brush of at least 10 inches in length. In the event that you want to utilize a roller rather than a sponge, look for ones with microfiber roller sleeves, which hold more paint and provide a smoother finish than foam. Don’t scrimp on supplies such as drop cloths, a paint tray, and sandpaper. Hyde Tools 45810 Super Guide Paint ShieldSmoothing Tool —this excellent straightedge with an easy-grip handle will give you flawless edges on trim without the need to tape — is another tool that experts use to expedite the painting process and eliminate clutter.

3. Consider surprising colors.

4th of July, 2017 Traditionally, doors have been painted in the same color as the walls surrounding them; however, designers are now employing interior doors to offer unexpected accent colors that make a statement in a space.

Especially effective when the door itself has distinctive woodwork and molding, which may be refreshed with a splash of vivid color or an industrial neutral like slate gray or even black, as shown here.

4. Choose the best finish.

5th of May, 2017 Interior doors in high-traffic areas can be anticipated to have fingerprints and filth on them. Choose paint with a gloss or semi-gloss finish rather than a flat or eggshell finish to create a surface that is considerably simpler to clean than other finishes. A glossier paint also helps doors and trim stand out more prominently against a flatter wall surface, which is particularly attractive. What’s the Difference Between the Two? Semi-Gloss vs Satin Finish

5. Pick the perfect shade for trim.

6th of June, 2017 The following is the rule of thumb that designers follow: If you plan to paint your door white or another light neutral color, make sure you paint the trim around it the same color. In the event that you pick a deeper colour, mix it with a trim that is off-white or neutral in tone. If you want to paint the door a deeper color, start by painting the trim first, allowing it to dry completely for at least 24 hours, then protecting it with painter’s tape before painting the main section of the door.

6. Detach correctly.

7th of July, 2017 While you may absolutely cover the floor under and around the door and paint it in situ, professionals know that it’s preferable to take the time to remove the door from its frame in order to get flawless results. When the door is placed on a flat work surface, it is simpler to fill and sand cracks and defects prior to painting them. Furthermore, because the container is in a horizontal position, gravity has little likelihood of causing ugly drips and globs. To remove the door from its hinges, hammer and nail the hinge pins until they become loose; the door should then slip off its hinges.

7. Remove the doorknob.

8th of August, 1717 Paint splatters on a doorknob are a telltale indicator of a shoddy construction work. Even more concerning, the moisture in paint can have a negative impact on door hardware, perhaps blocking the locking mechanism; sanding and cleaning solvents can also cause harm to door hardware. To avoid such issues, it is preferable to remove the knob rather than merely tap it off. To remove the screws, use a screwdriver to pry them out. Look on the side of the handle for a small metal-covered slot if you can’t see any screws on the top or bottom.

The knob can then be removed by unscrewing the “rose” or plate that holds it in place.

8. Fill holes and cracks.

9th of September, 2017 Painting a door, especially an older wood door with trim and molding, usually necessitates considerable preparation work because of the uneven surface. Up the first instance, fill in any minor holes or cracks in the surface using a high-quality wood filler or spackle, which is a gypsum plaster and adhesive filling combination that shrinks very little after drying and may be painted without the need for priming (and sometimes even without sanding).

Scrape a tiny quantity of spackle or wood filler into the hole with a putty knife, making sure to spread it evenly, and allow it to cure for approximately two hours. Check to see if you need to add any additional spackle or filler, then sand the areas that have been filled in smooth.

9. Sand and prime.

tenth of october seventeenth Completely sand the whole front door surface with 120-grit sandpaper, either manually or with a power sander, after any flaws have been filled, dried, and polished. Remove any surface dust from the door by wiping it with a delicate cloth moistened with mineral spirits and drying it with another soft cloth. If you’re painting over oil-based paint, use primer first so that you may switch to latex later if you choose. Gently sand the surface again with a 220-grit sandpaper after the priming coat has been allowed to cure completely (ideally overnight).

10. Prop it on points for painting.

17th of November After the surface has been sanded down to a nice finish, it is time to paint. Rather of placing the door squarely on the work area, raise it by a few inches to make it easier to see through. This will allow for more airflow and reduce the likelihood that a somewhat moist paint coat will adhere when you flip it over to paint the opposite side. These are the situations in whichPainter’s Pyramidscome in helpful The robust plastic pyramids, which are secured to the sawhorses through handy holes, allow you to lift the door by two inches while simultaneously decreasing the surface area in touch with fresh paint to small points when you flip the door to paint the other side.

11. Paint without a break.

17th of December Now that you’re ready to begin the real painting process, paint the door in one continuous motion, without pausing for breath. If you take a break for even a few minutes during a coat, the paint will dry unevenly, resulting in a spotty appearance. Latex paints can be dry and ready for a second coat in as little as four hours, depending on the temperature. A second coat of oil-based paint must be applied after 24 hours if the first application was successful. After the initial layer has dried, it is common for professionals to recommend sanding it again using 320-grit sandpaper.

OTHER RELATED:12 Simple Fixes for a Blotchy Paint Job

12. Approach paneled doors properly.

13th of July, 2017 A flat door should be painted using long, smooth brush strokes or vertical roller strokes, which is the most basic approach. Interior doors, on the other hand, are frequently paneled and should be painted in the following order: 1. Begin by painting the margins surrounding the door, including the top, sides, and bottom. 2. Painting the inner panels will be the next step. Six panels are often used, with two square panels at the top, two rectangular panels in the center and bottom, and two square panels in the middle and bottom.

See also:  How To Update Interior Stucco Walls

Next, paint the vertical strips between the panels, starting at the top.

Finish painting the horizontal strips at the top and bottom of the door using a flat black paintbrush.

13. Save time with a sprayer.

14th of July, 2017 Using a paint sprayer may give your door a beautiful finish in half the time it would take using traditional methods if you are short on time. A day’s rental from your local Home Depot will cost you around $37 dollars (prices may vary depending on location). Check to see if the sprayer is compatible with latex-based paints, which emit fewer hazardous fumes than oil-based paints, dry more rapidly, and are simpler to clean up after they have been applied.

Nonetheless, when working outside, it is preferable to place them on unattached doors to provide a barrier between the fumes and stray spray dispersal. If you’re working indoors, drop cloths should be used to cover any neighboring surfaces and furnishings.

14. Speed up dry time.

15th of July, 2017 Light, even layers of paint should be used to save drying time; heavy coats take longer to cure and might result in an uneven appearance. Use a brush to dip the bristles halfway into the paint and tap or scrape the bristles against the side of the container to remove excess paint. The roller should be placed in the pan and rolled back and forth until it was evenly coated and completely coated, but not soaked, before being removed from the pan. Recommendation: If you are using a fresh roller, leave it to rest for approximately a minute after covering it with paint to allow the paint to completely permeate into the fibers.

If feasible, keep a dehumidifier running in hot, humid regions.

15. Leave the door open.

16th and 17th While a door is still connected, remind family members and guests not to touch or close the door for at least two days to keep the edges and trim from being damaged during painting. Keep in mind that the drying time may vary depending on the type of paint you chose. Oil-based paints dry more slowly than latex paints, and this is especially true for acrylic paints. Rehanging a detachable door after the second coat has dried fully is recommended if the door is painted.

16. Install new knobs for a total transformation.

17.17 /17 /17 /17 /17 /17 /17 /17 /17 Adding new door hardware will make a significant change in the appearance of your home. Of course, functionality is essential, but thankfully, for the majority of interior doors, a basic lock is sufficient (unlike exterior doors, where security is paramount). Also consider whether a twist knob or a handle is more appropriate for your requirements. After that, think about your personal style. Using a colorful crystal doorknob may bring a touch of glitz to your home.

In order to achieve a contemporary and minimalist style, a slim door lever in brushed nickel or bronze is recommended.

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How To Paint An Interior Door

DIY Blogger Diane Henkler of talks Glidden ® about her own personal style. How to finalize the aesthetic of your foyer by tackling the internal doors. Q:What is the most effective method of painting an inside door? A:Recently painted doors and trim may make a significant impact in the overall appearance of your home’s color choice. I am certain of this since I have been living with two distinct colors of trim and doors in my entryway for quite some time. It’s been more than a year since I removed the carpet from my foyer staircase and stained the stairs in a wood tone while painting the risers white.

A coat or two of white paint was needed to bring the doors and baseboard in the room up to the same level as the stairs.

Even though it took me a while to get around to it, I was eventually able to cross it off my to-do list over the holiday weekend. I made the decision to paint all of the doors in a single day. Preparation takes the greatest time, but the actual painting is quite rapid.

Door Painting Tips

The following are some pointers to keep in mind when painting a door to ensure a flawless finish:

  1. Painting a door while it is still in its frame and on its hinges is the quickest and most effective method. removing the door from the frame may cause movement in the frame and the door may not fit or operate correctly when it is reinstalled
  2. The fact that it may be painted on both sides at the same time is another argument to keep it on its hinges. If you were to lay it down to paint, you’d have to wait for one side to dry before you could start on the other.

Door Prep

  1. As a first step, take off all of the knobs, plates, and lock mechanism from the door and arrange them in clearly designated bags so that you will know where each one should go when it is time to put them back on. To avoid removing the hardware, use painter’s tape to separate each piece from the rest of the piece. Another option for masking off the hardware is to apply two coats of rubber cement to the surface. When you’re through painting, it’ll come off with no effort. If your doors are in poor condition, use putty to patch any holes that may exist. Then sand and clean them well before you begin. Prepare the painted surfaces by priming them with a suitable primer before painting them
  2. If your door is filthy, clean it using a scrub sponge wet with TSP (trisodium phosphate) to remove the grime. It will dissolve the grease and filth if you use TSP. The roughness created by the scrub sponge operates similarly to wet sanding in that it provides a surface for the fresh paint to cling to. Although it may not appear to be unclean, give your door a thorough washing with soap and water, followed by a rinse with clean water to remove any soap residue. To paint over an oil-based paint with latex, you must first gently sand* it and prime it with a good grippingprimer to ensure that the latex adheres to the surface. If you do not prepare your surface before painting, the paint will wipe right off when it is dry. It’s best to sand and prime to be safe rather than sorry if you’re not sure what the prior paint finish was

Painting the Door

Primarily, you should begin with the frame/casing, working your way up from the inner bottom, over the top, and then down the opposite side. Second Coat: The main door, which serves as both an entry and a departure point from the room if you are also painting the walls in the room, should be painted last if you are also painting them. This will ensure that the freshly painted finish is allowed to cure completely without being disturbed. Keep in mind that you should not paint the top or bottom of a door (the narrow areas that are not visible when the door is closed).

Tips for plain doors include the following:

  1. A foam roller is best for painting a simple, flat door
  2. An angled brush is best for painting the sides of a door that is not curved. You want to make sure you don’t leave any roller lap markings on the surface. To eliminate any lap marks, lightly fill a roller with paint and roll it over the wet layer of paint to smooth it out.

Tips for a paneled door include the following: Sections 1–6: Use an angled brush with a width of 1–2 inches to paint the recessed regions on the panels in sections 1–6. The elevated portions should be painted with the paintnton. Use a foam roller to roll paint along the middle of the door in sections 5–7. Sections 5–7: Sections 8–10: Apply the paint on the door by rolling it across it. Sections 1112: Paint the sides of the door by rolling the paint along the sides of the door. Section 13: Paint the outer corners of the door using a roller or an angled brush.

Remove any painter’s tape that was used to mask the knobs and locks as soon as the second coat is applied.


  1. Replace the hardware when it has dried completely
  2. Touch up as required.

My “Before” picture Even though it’s difficult to discern in this view, the door and sidelights are painted Antique White, while the baseboards are a much lighter shade of white. It is possible to see where the two colors meet in the bottom right corner of the picture where the doorframe meets the baseboard. There are two additional doors in the room that are painted the same color as the first. My “After” photo is below. All of my doors and trim now match the white risers and balusters on the staircase in my foyer, which was previously a mismatch.

  1. As is always the case, safety comes first!
  2. *WARNING!

Use a HEPA vacuum and a damp mop to thoroughly clean the area. Before you begin, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or visiting to learn more about lead exposure prevention.

How to Paint a Door Just Like the Pros

My “Before” photo is a black and white photograph. In this view, it’s difficult to notice, but the door and sidelights are painted in Antique White, while the baseboards are a much lighter shade of white. It is possible to see where the two colors meet in the bottom right corner of the picture, where the doorframe meets the baseboard. There are two additional doors in the room that are painted the same color as the first door in the picture. What I did “afterwards” All of my doors and trim now match the white risers and balusters on the staircase in my foyer, which was previously a mismatched mess.

  • The most important thing to remember is to be safe.
  • TOXICITY OF LEAD Exposure to lead dust can result in serious illness, such as brain damage, and should be avoided at all costs, particularly in children.
  • If you want to keep lead exposure under control, you should use a respirator authorized by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health.
  • Before you begin, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or visiting to learn more about lead poisoning.

How to Paint Your Interior Doors

As a result, I’d want to demonstrate to you how simple it is to paint your builder-grade doors today. We were once again confronted with absolutely acceptable builder-grade materials in our home built in the 1990s. No problems existed with our doors; they were your ordinary imitation wood doors with no special features. I had kept them white for a few years, which was OK, but one day I just woke up and felt it was time for a change, and I had the enthusiasm to tackle the task of painting my upstairs hallway!

As part of the project, I coated all of my old, flashy, out-of-date door knobs a modern matte black, which looks so much nicer and only cost a few dollars in paint materials to replace.

Supplies You Will Need to Paint Doors:

  • Trim and door paint, I prefer a paint and primer in one and usually just buy what’s on sale, but my favorite is Benjamin Moore Advance Paint
  • Sanding sponges, I like these
  • Sandpaper, I like these
  • Sandpaper, I This one, the Angled Paint Brush, is one of my favorites
  • A decent degreaser or paint prep spray
  • I used this one, which I purchased from Home Depot
  • And a nice paint brush. The following items are required: paint tray and roller
  • 4″ High Density Foam Rollers
  • Painters Tape

Tips Before We Get Started:

  • Prepare the surrounding surroundings. Because you will be painting the door while it is hanging, lay a drop cloth or an old towel below it to collect any drips. Painter’s tape should be used to cover all of your hinges. In fact, you will be painting both sides of your door, so follow the instructions in this page for both sides of your door. Take your doorknobs off the hinges.

Step One:

After you have completed your preparation, the first step is to clean your doors using a paint prep solution or even a good degreaser such as Dawn or Pinesol to ensure that they are completely clean. Scrub in any grooves of the door and along any precise edges with a stiff brush.

You’ll be amazed at how dusty the doors grow over time! After cleaning all of my doors, I couldn’t believe how unclean the water was, despite the fact that my doors were white and appeared to be in good condition! Remove any dirt and filth off the surface since paint will not adhere to it.

Step Two:

Use a flexible sponge to sand the doors on both the front and rear sides, being careful to get into all of the grooves as well. You don’t need to sand too much; just enough to make the doors look a little more scratched up. Once you have finished lightly sanding, give it a good wipe down to eliminate any remaining dust.

Step Three:

Now that your doors have been cleaned, sanded, and dried, they should be ready to be painted. If your doors are really ancient and in poor condition, I would recommend priming them first using a decent primer such as this one. I use a plastic paint tray to hold my paint and pour it directly into it. Because paint does not want to adhere to plastic, once it has dry, it will easily pull away from the plastic tray! It’s really rather enjoyable to do, and it’s one of those strangely fulfilling things I’ve discovered while being a do-it-yourselfer, haha!

  1. It is possible to omit this step if your door is flat.
  2. I love how the soft greige paint looks next to the white trim and how it complements it.
  3. Once you’ve finished painting your grooves, you may go ahead and cut in around your hinges as well.
  4. Make sure you check all of the corners of any grooves you have painted and that there isn’t too much paint settling; you just need even thin layers, with no drips!

Step Four:

If your door is of the same common type as mine, you will apply your paint in 11 vertical directions and four horizontal directions, as seen in the image below. It may appear difficult, but believe me when I say it is not! Your door will seem more professionally polished if you follow these instructions, and there will be less paint and roller marks on it. This was discovered by just observing the appearance of the imitation wood grain on my doors. In the image below, you can see the areas where you will roll your paint up and down, and you can see that you will roll your paint horizontally in all of the remaining four white portions.

  1. Using your foam roller, if you see any little air bubbles in your paint, allow the paint to settle for a minute on the door before going over it very lightly with your roller to gently burst all of the air bubbles and smooth them out.
  2. You can lightly sand over any bubbles or areas with lint using a fine-grit sponge if there are any, and then go ahead and repeat steps 3 and 4 for the final coat.
  3. Two applications were plenty for my white doors, but if you are covering a deeper color with another lighter colour, you may want a third layer or maybe more.
  4. It is intended to be used on doors and trim in its natural state, with no additional preparation.
  5. Four simple steps to a set of stunningly painted doors!
  6. My hallway was good before, but it now has a cozier feel to it as well as more character.
  7. As you can see, we’ve subsequently replaced all of the trim as well.
  8. We are continuing working on our half wall upstairs, as well as putting board and batten in the hallway.
  9. I also just painted our bathroom door, which is next to our front entrance, and I really like how it complements my new Room Mates brick peel and stick wallpaper.

Update: Here is the blog post on how to spray paint your doorknobs with acrylic paint! *Benjamin Moore is the trim color. Simply White* is the color of the walls. Grey Owl is a Benjamin Moore paint color. Good morning, everyone:) Have a good day. Dale

Spray Paint vs. Brush Hand Painting on Interior Doors

Painting your interior doors is a simple and inexpensive method to bring new life to your house. The addition of a fresh coat of white paint to your home may bring it into the current day, while a splash of color on your inside doors can match your design style. It is also a cost-effective solution for those who are new to home remodeling projects. An in-depth approach on painting inside doors with spray paint as opposed to brush techniques is provided below. This post may include affiliate links, which means that if you make a purchase through one of these links, I will receive a tiny fee at no additional cost to you.

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What is the best way to paint interior doors | Spray paint vs. brush?

When we first moved into our house, the orange honey oak wood doors took my breath away. Honey oak may be found everywhere! This popular wood hue from the 1990s was used on the trim, doors, floor, mantel, railings, and walls of the house. Despite the fact that I appreciate the warm wood tones, I didn’t enjoy them to the same level as others. It was a case of wood overkill. With the use of paint, we have gradually eliminated the honey oak hue over the previous three years. You may get a glimpse of some of that process by reading the articles listed below.

  • How to Make a House Look More Modern by Painting the Trim
  • The Best Way to Paint Windows Without Using Tape
  • Techniques for Painting Trim Without Using Brush Strokes Instructions on how to paint inside doors with a paint sprayer

Our honey oak doors are the final piece of wood to be found! It is important to note that these doors are quite robust and properly constructed. It didn’t matter to me that the 6 panel door is less fashionable than more contemporary interior doors; I wanted to preserve them because of their outstanding quality. So, in order to bring them up to date, I painted them! I’ve painted doors in a variety of methods, including spray paint, hand brushing, and rolling. As a result, I’m frequently asked what the best method is for painting inside doors.

What kind of paint do you use on interior doors?

No matter what type of painting you choose for your doors, there are specific preparation activities and supplies that will provide the greatest possible finish for your doors. Choosing the right sort of paint for your interior doors may make a significant impact in the overall appearance and long-term durability of the doors. Before Many individuals are apprehensive about painting inside doors because they don’t want to deal with the hassle of chipping and maintaining the paint. However, employing a high-quality paint and thorough preparation can provide you with a gorgeous finish that will last for years with no maintenance.

Best Paint for Interior Doors and Trim

The best paint for interior doors is identical to the paint I would use on the trim in my home. Any of the types of paint listed below will work perfectly for your interior doors. They each have their own set of advantages and disadvantages, so the decision on which to choose for your project is entirely up to you!

Using oil based paint on doors

Oil-based paint is a very long-lasting paint choice that is ideal for use on doors and other outside surfaces. Once painted, your doors will be easy to clean, will be extremely robust, and will have the smoothest surface available on the market. The disadvantages of using oil-based paint for interior doors, on the other hand, frequently lead individuals to choose latex. Oil-based paint has a strong odor and requires more time to clean up than latex paint.

Furthermore, after you’ve painted using oil-based paint, you shouldn’t paint overtop of it with latex paint since it won’t adhere properly. You’re ready to go as soon as you’ve decided on an oil-based paint for your doors.

Using latex paint on doors

However, many high-quality latex paints will produce excellent results, although oil-based paints will produce the smoothest finish owing to their longer drying period! Due to the continuous advancement of the painting business, latex paints are becoming more versatile and durable than ever before. If you decide to use latex paint, make sure to select a manufacturer that is well-known for producing high-quality paint. After that, try using a latex paint conditioner such as Floetrol to give the paint an extra smooth surface.

Using ceramic enamel or urethane alkyd paint on doors

I’ve grown to appreciate the look of ceramic enamel paint on trim and baseboards, and this has extended to the interior of doors as well. It is available in two finishes: semi-gloss and satin, and it dries to a strong, lasting finish. It dries rapidly and is simple to clean up after. It was our painting contractor who first introduced me to this sort of paint two years ago, and it has since become my go-to pick for places where I require exceptional durability. Another product that is comparable is Urethane Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel.

It is one of the most durable coatings available, and it may even be applied to metal surfaces.

Using cabinetdoor paint on doors

Of course, nowadays, paints are available for practically every surface and may be applied to almost any surface type. Don’t discount the importance of using a paint that is designed exclusively for cabinets and doors. Designed primarily for heavy activity areas, these products provide excellent clean up and a long-lasting finish in one application. The Magnolia Cabinet and Door Paint, which I purchased from Ace Hardware, was the perfect choice for my inside doors. Gatherings is the color of our front door.

In these pieces, you can see how I painted my complete kitchen to give it a fresh look.

  • How to Paint a Tile Backsplash
  • How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
  • How to Paint a Tile Floor

What is the best paint finish for interior doors?

After you’ve decided on the sort of paint you want to use, you’ll need to decide on the type of finish you want for your doors. If you are painting inside doors, I do not advocate using anything other than a semi-gloss finish. High traffic areas benefit from semi-gloss or gloss finishes since they have the highest durability. When it comes to enamel or alkyd paints, some of them may be available in a satin finish, which would be the next best alternative if you are strongly averse to a glossy finish.

This section provides an overview of all of the paint finishes available, as well as information on how to apply them.

Cost to Paint Interior Doors

I enjoy low-cost tasks that have a great impact, and painting interior doors is one of my favorite projects to complete!

Paint is an extremely inexpensive way to update a home, and it is highly cost-effective when compared to other types of home repair initiatives. If you want to paint inside doors and trim beyond the entryway, the cost of painting interior doors and trim is determined by the following factors:

  • The number of doors you are painting
  • The type of paint you pick, as they are all priced differently
  • And the time frame you have to complete the project. It doesn’t matter if your doors are previously painted or not. It is possible that you will not need to purchase primer if they are already painted. The method of painting that you pick, such as spray paint vs brush. Spray painting consumes far more paint than brush painting. Materials that are already in your possession

Given that I paint frequently, I already have a paint sprayer, brushes, and supplies for the preparatory work. I spent less than $100 on supplies for painting 11 doors, including 1 gallon of primer and 1 gallon of paint, as well as a deglosser. You should expect to pay anything from $100 to $400 (or more if you require a sprayer!) to paint a large number of doors, depending on all of the considerations listed above.

Painting Indoor Doors | Prep Steps

Given that I paint frequently, I already have a paint sprayer, brushes, and supplies for the preparatory steps. I spent less than $100 on supplies for painting 11 doors, which included 1 gallon of primer, 1 gallon of paint, and a deglosser. You should expect to pay anything from $100 to $400 (or more if you require a sprayer!) to paint a large number of doors, depending on all of the considerations listed above.

Do I have to sand a door before painting?

Is it necessary to sand before painting? That is the million-dollar issue. I get what you’re saying. Sanding is a chore that no one enjoys. It takes a long time, is laborious, and is a mess! Sanding, on the other hand, is a vital stage in the painting process. It is effective in removing glossy and slick surfaces while also providing an excellent surface for painting. However, if you’re like me and live in a climate with long winters, sanding outside may not always be the most convenient alternative.

This is a less time-consuming alternative to sanding.

That’s all there is to it!

One you have finished deglossing or sanding the doors, make sure to wash them down once more to ensure that any residue has been removed.

Priming Interior Doors | Necessary for both Spray Paint vs. Brush

If you are painting over wood that has never been painted before, it is critical that you prime the doors first. It is recommended that you use an oil-based primer, or something with great coverage such as Kilz 3 if you don’t want to deal with oil-based products in general. Even if you are painting a door that has previously been painted, you should consider using a primer. If you are moving from a dark color to a light color, priming will allow you to get greater coverage with fewer coats of paint than you would otherwise get.

Can you paint a door without removing it?

Short and simple answer: “Yes!” While your door is still on the hinges, you may paint it if you are using a hand brush to apply the paint on it. Remove the hinges from the door and cover them with painter’s tape to prevent them from being painted unintentionally. Then, for the same reason, you can choose to tape or remove your door knobs and latch plates if necessary. While I was painting my inside doors, I decided it would be a good idea to also replace our door hinges and door knobs.

It seemed like the perfect opportunity! With the iconic 90s style glossy brass hinges and knobs that were scratched all over the place, we were in for a treat. Consequently, I picked these stunning matte black hinges and knobs to bring our doors up to date with the latest fashion!

  • Passage Knob with a lock
  • Privacy Knob with no lock
  • Privacy Knob with lock
  • The hinges should be matte black (be careful to figure out what kind hinges you presently have so that the new ones will fit! )

Spray paint vs. brush methods

And now we come to the crux of the matter: is it preferable to spray paint my inside doors rather than brush or hand paint them? To be honest, there are advantages and disadvantages to both! In order to avoid saying which is superior than the other, I’ll tell you the breakdown and leave it to you to make the decision. After that, I’ll give you some pointers on how to use both ways effectively.

Hand painting interior doors

Hand painting interior doors is simple, but it takes a lot of time. It lets you to paint the doors right where they are without having to move them to a location that is suitable for spraying, and it is a practical method to paint a small number of doors or a small number of doors at a time.


  • It is convenient for individuals who do not have access to a paint sprayer. For 1-3 doors, it is simple and quick to do
  • Preparing a setting for painting takes less time and effort.


  • If you have a large number of doors to paint, this will take a long time: Hands-on time should be 30-40 minutes per door, per coat. It is more difficult to get a smooth finish. It is time-consuming and stressful.

What type of brush is best for painting doors?

If you decide to hand paint your doors, make sure to follow the instructions above for selecting the right supplies and preparation. I prefer to use a 2 inch angled brush with a short handle for this task. I use this brush to paint doors and trim since it is my favorite.

How do you paint interior doors without brush marks?

I just created a full post devoted to the topic of painting trim without leaving brush strokes. The same techniques may be used to paint doors as well! You may read the complete story by clicking on the link below. But here are a few pointers for painting doors without leaving brush traces.

  1. Paint in tiny parts to save time. This is especially true when painting a six-panel door. Consider the door from a third-person perspective. Finish the bottom two panels before moving on to the flat areas. The center panels should be completed next, followed by the middle flat surfaces. After that, finish the upper panels and then go on to the flat areas. Finish by painting the flat surfaces and edges of the vertical side of the door and the door frame. Don’t overbrush the area. When painting, paint is intended to self-level
  2. Therefore, if you brush through it too many times, it will become thin and display each brush stroke more prominently. Do not use a brush to apply paint on partially dried paint. Always begin at the top of your stroke and work your way all the way down to the bottom, feathering out as necessary. Adding additives to your paint, such as Floetrolin latex paint, can assist to keep your paint wet for a longer period of time, making it simpler to work with.
See also:  What Is Balance In Interior Design

Spray Painting Interior Doors

Both spray painting and brush painting interior doors have advantages and disadvantages. It is significantly more efficient for the actual painting, but it necessitates more preparatory time. Apart from that, maintaining and cleaning your paint sprayer is incredibly crucial and time-consuming.


  • A very quick painting method: 3-4 minutes hands-on time per door for each color
  • If you use a high-quality sprayer, the finish will be smoother.


  • Painting technique that is extremely quick: 3-4 minutes hands-on time per door for each color
  • When utilizing a high-quality sprayer, the finish will be smoother.

How to Prep for Spray Painting Indoors

The majority of my spray painting is done indoors, just as I do with my sanding. When I used a paint sprayer on my closet doors as part of this job, I was able to transfer them to the outside. If you are able to paint outside, your preparation work will be far less time-consuming! Painting inside requires a significant amount of preparation on the part of those of us who must do it.

  • Cover any surfaces within 10 feet of your spray area with plastic to prevent stains from forming. Everything: the floor, the ceiling, the walls.everything! Paint particles can travel, so be sure you overcompensate with your protection. Make sure all of the corners of your plastic are taped down so that they don’t float. Paint sprayers may use air to spray the paint, and this draft can cause lightweight plastic to float, resulting in a ruined paint job. While painting, spray in a well-ventilated area and use a suitable mask and eye protection to keep yourself safe.

How to Spray Paint Interior Doors

Spray painting inside doors is pretty similar to how I use a can of spray paint, which is to say it is extremely comparable. All of the action revolves around the paint velocity and continuous motion. However, here are the highlights of this instruction on how to use a paint sprayer on interior doors, as well as examples of both a good and a terrible spray painting work.

  1. Begin by practicing your spray technique on a scrap piece of wood to become familiar with the movement and correct velocity
  2. Cleaning your sprayer nozzle occasionally while spraying can help to prevent it from being clogged, which may result in spots and an uneven finish (see illustration below). Start your spraying away from the door and gradually work your way onto it, moving in a continuous manner up and down the door with a short gap between each pass. Do not stop moving while the paint is still wet on the doorframe.

Spotting is caused by a clogged spray painter. There are a variety of reasons why your sprayer may begin to spit rather than spray, including the following:

  • A clogged nozzle
  • Improper cleaning, resulting in bits of material passing through
  • Too thick of a coat of paint Incorrect settings for pressure and spray pattern

What is your conclusion: spray paint vs. brush?

What is your conclusion now that you know all of the information? My personal preference is for the quickness of spray painting, but the comfort and convenience of hand brushing is what I prefer the most of the time! Furthermore, it is convenient that it may be done on the hinges if a door is difficult to move, as ours is.

Stay Connected

Thanks for reading, and I hope you found this topic about spray paint vs.

brush painting doors to be informative. Make sure to share this post and save it to your Pinterest board for when you’re ready to paint your doors! These 15 basic DIY home repair ideas are perfect if you’re seeking for more cheap solutions to modernize your residence.

How to Paint a Door

Every editorial product is chosen on its own merits, while we may be compensated or earn an affiliate commission if you purchase something after clicking on one of our affiliate links. As of the time of writing, the ratings and pricing are correct, and all goods are in stock. Time A busy day of work Complexity IntermediateCost$51–100


Painting paneled doors is the ultimate painter’s difficulty since they are so intricate. To make things easier, we experimented with various tools and colors and observed professionals at work. Here’s what we discovered.

Tools Required

  • Paint, paint drip remover, primer, sandable filler, sanding sponges, and sandpaper are some of the supplies you’ll need.

Picking your paint

When selecting a paint color, consider the shine of the paint as well. Scuff marks and handprints are difficult to remove from a flat surface because of the lack of texture. High gloss is simple to clean, but it draws attention to any imperfections in the surface, so your prep and paint work must be flawless. Satin and semigloss are ideal middle-of-the-road options. Note: Painting a door can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on the state of the door and how particular you are about the results you want.

In other words, if you’re painting a door that you can’t live without, such as a bathroom or an external door, start early in the morning so it can be back in service by the end of the workday.

Project step-by-step (14)

Doors are frequently painted in situ by professionals. However, you will achieve greater results if you remove the door during the preparation and painting phases.

  • Working in your garage, shop, or basement allows you to have greater control over the lighting and drying conditions
  • Laying the door flat reduces the possibility of paint runs during the painting process.

Following the removal of the door, you should complete the following:

  • Almost any cleaning will suffice as long as it is effective at cutting grease. It is very common for oily accumulation around door knobs
  • These areas are particularly vulnerable.

Taking down all of the door hardware will result in a more professional paint job and will save time. Slicing through paint buildup around hinges and locks will save time. Fill dents and holes with a sandable filler such as MH Ready Patch to make them less noticeable.

  • Advice from the pros: You’ll almost certainly have to repair deep dents twice to account for shrinking.

Remove any old paint that has accumulated on the hardware. Goof Off Pro Strength RemoverorGoo Gone Painter’s Pal are two products that are designed to remove paint spatter from a surface.

  • Paint strippers can be used, however they have the potential to remove clear coatings from the hardware and harm some types of finishes as well.

Sand the Door Smooth

  • Start with a mild sandpaper or a sanding sponge to prepare the surface (180 or 220 grit).
  • A little amount of roughening will be achieved, which will aid in the adhesion of the primer.

Chipped paint and defects from prior paint treatments should be smoothed up.

  • This is frequently the most time-consuming and difficult element of the project
  • It is also the most important.

On flat surfaces, use a strong sanding block to level up previous streaks and brush strokes that have formed. Make use of a combination of sanding pads, sponges, and discarded sandpaper to create the curved profiles you desire.

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Remove the Sanding Dust

  • Paint frequently adheres to sandpaper, blocking the grit and rendering it ineffective
  • Pro tip: Make sure you read the label and get sandpaper that is designed for painting. You may still have some blockage, but the amount will be reduced

Begin with a 120 or 150 grit paper. Switch to a coarser grit paper (such as 80 grit) on troublesome areas if necessary, but be sure to follow up with a finer grain paper to smooth out any sanding scratches that occur.

  • On flat surfaces, use a finishing or random-orbit sander to smooth out the surface. It might save you a significant amount of time.

To get rid of the majority of the dust, use a vacuum with a brush attachment. Using a moist rag, wipe away the remaining residue.

Sand After Priming

  • The primary coat should be sanded to remove any flaws
  • Shine a light across the surface at a low angle to draw attention to flaws and faults. Masking tape should be used to identify any areas that require an additional dab of filler.

Paint for a Smooth Finish

  • Advice from the pros: Smooth paints are typically designated as “enamel” or “door and trim.”
  • Super-smooth paints can cost as much as $25 to $30 per quart of paint! However, it is well worth the extra ten dollars each door to receive first-class results.

Our Door Paint Pick:

One kind of paint stands out for its smoothness among the others that we’ve tried: water-based alkyds.

  • After applying them with a high-quality roller, you can typically skip the brush-out phases and still achieve flawless results. These paints dry slowly to give you more working time and level out almost as well as traditional oil-based alkyds.
  • Cleanup is also straightforward, but be prepared for a lengthy wait before re-coating (16 to 24 hours) as well as a larger price tag.

Tips for a Perfect Workspace

After the sanding task is completed, remove the door from the workstation and prepare your workspace.

  • When priming and painting, you’ll want a work area that’s well-lit and free of debris.
  • Pro tip: Sawdust on your workstation will wind up on your brushes, and airborne dust will cause whiskers to appear on your painted surfaces.

Reduce air movement to reduce the amount of dust in the air and to allow for slower drying. Close all of the doors and windows. Forced-air heating and cooling systems should be turned off. Don’t rely on overhead illumination; in fact, you may want to turn it off completely.

  • Pro tip: Place a work light four to five feet above the ground to provide adequate illumination. This low-angle light will draw attention to any drips or ridges on the surface.

Door Painting Tricks

  • Make the door flippable by driving one screw into one end of the door and two screws into the opposite end.
  • This allows you to coat both sides of the door at the same time without having to wait for the first side to dry.

Wet the floor: A wet floor stops you from kicking up dust, which will result in dust nubs in your finished floor finish. It also boosts the humidity, which allows you to have more time to smooth out the paint and give the paint more time to level off as a result of the longer smoothing period.

  • We discovered that increasing the humidity increased the working duration of the paint by a factor of two.

Keep a pair of tweezers on hand for tasks such as plucking off paintbrush bristles or rescuing trapped insects without contaminating the painted surface.

Door Painting Priming Tips

  • You may “spot-prime” a door by coating only the places where dents have been mended or where the wood has been sanded down to the bare wood. However, priming the entire door is the best option.
  • Pro tip: The fresh paint will adhere better to the surface and will result in a more consistent finish.
  • When it comes to painting, the primer you use is equally as crucial as the paint. Request a primer that is suitable with your paint, levels out nicely, and sands easily when you are at the hardware shop.

Apply two coats of priming to get an ultra-smooth paint finish. Lightly sand the primer with 220-grit sandpaper, paying close attention as you go. Paint the borders and brush away any excess paint. Paint all four edges with a brush or a roll of paint. Remove any paint that has slopped over the face of the door using a cloth or foam brush as soon as possible.

Painting Tips

  • To avoid the paint becoming too sticky to work with or too stiff to erase brush traces, you must put it down and smooth it out as soon as possible once it has been applied.

To help with leveling and drying time, consider adding a paint additive to your paint mix. Start with a clean door; shortly before painting, wipe it down with a damp towel to remove any dust. If you use inexpensive roller sleeves, you will end up with fibers in your finish.

  • Using a tiny roller, you may achieve excellent results with microfiber, mohair, or foam sleeves.
  • Pro tip: When painting the edges of a door, some paint will surely drip across the faces of the door as well. It’s preferable if this occurs before the faces are painted
  • Nonetheless,
  • A thick layer of paint covers better and occasionally levels out better than a thin coat, but it increases the likelihood of runs and makes brush strokes appear deeper.
  • Rollers apply paint considerably more quickly than a brush, allowing you to work with the paint for a few more valuable minutes before it begins to harden
  • And
  • Generally speaking, brushed paint levels out better than rolled paint, and any brush markings are less obvious than stipple from a rolling pin.
  • Pro tip: When using high-quality enamel and roller sleeves, roller results can be very smooth.

Plan on applying at least two coats and carefully sanding between applications with a 220-grit sandpaper to eliminate any dust nubs that may have accumulated.

Brush Around the Panels

  • Work the paint into the corners and grooves with your fingers. After that, slide the brush over the paint to smooth it down a bit. Remove any slop from the panel by wiping it away.

Roll, Then Brush the Panels

  • Apply the paint to the panels in a thin layer with a roller, and then smooth it out with a brush.
  • Take cautious not to make contact with the profiles that surround the panel.

Roll the Rails and Stiles

  • Apply paint to the door in portions, coating no more than one-quarter of the door at a time
  • Then wipe away the excess paint.
  • Take care not to pour paint over the edges of the panels when painting them.

Brush With the Grain

  • Brush over the joints where the door components come together
  • Then drag your brush in a straight line along the intersection to remove any remaining debris.
  • Using this technique, any visible brush marks will appear to be more like a wood grain pattern rather than poor brushwork.

The Ultimate Smooth Finish

  • It is impossible for even the most accomplished painter to achieve the level of precision that a sprayed-on finish achieves.
  • It is impossible for even the most accomplished painter to achieve the level of precision achieved by using a spray-on finish.
  • Both can apply a faultless coat in minutes, although HVLP is more forgiving than conventional spraying methods. A finer spray is produced, which lowers the likelihood of blasting on too much paint and generating runs.

Aside from improving the final quality, using a sprayer will save you hours of brushwork if you have a large number of door frames to paint. Sprayer Reviews and Painting With an Airless Sprayer are two resources for further information about airless and HVLP sprayers.

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