How to Panel Walls with Plywood
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation Paneling over walls with plywood is a simple technique to bring a room’s appearance up to date. Before you can begin attaching plywood panels to a wall, you must first determine how many panels you will use and then cut them to the appropriate dimensions. Also take into consideration any doors or windows that may be present on the walls that will be paneled. Once the panels and walls are complete, you can quickly and easily attach the panels to the walls and ceiling using glue and nails.
- 1 Take a tape measure and measure the perimeter of the space you’ll be paneling. The perimeter of the space may be calculated by measuring the length of each wall in the room with a tape measure and adding the lengths together to get the total length of the room. If you’re simply paneling one wall with plywood, you’ll only need enough plywood to cover the length of the wall in question. Calculate the number of plywood panels you’ll need by multiplying the perimeter of the room by the length of the plywood panels you’d like to utilize
- For example, if the room’s perimeter is 24 feet (7.3 meters) in length and the plywood panels you wish to utilize are 4 feet (1.2 meters) across, you would want six panels total. You would need four plywood panels to panel a single wall that is 15 feet (4.6 meters) long and 4 feet (1.2 meters) broad if the plywood panels you wish to use are 4 feet (1.2 meters) in width. You would need to remove one foot (0.3 meters) from one of the panels since four of them would equal 16 feet (4.9 meters).
- 2. Before you begin, let the plywood panels to become used to the surroundings. As a result, once they’re mounted on the walls, they won’t warp any more. Lean the panels against one of the walls of the room you’ll be paneling to give it a more finished look. Allow the panels to sit in the room for a full 24-hour period. For rooms below ground level, such as a basement, allow the panels to acclimatize for at least 48 hours before installing them. Advertisement
- s3 Assemble the panels in the order in which you wish them to appear. Allowing you to get a better sense of how they’ll appear when done is a good idea. Move them about and try out different looks to see what you like. Adjust the grains and colors until you discover a combination that you like.
- Once you’ve selected a layout that you like, number the backs of the panels with a pencil so you’ll know what order they should be placed in later. For example, the panel in the corner of the room where you’ll be starting the installation would be labeled “1,” the panel across the room would be labeled “2,” the panel across the room would be labeled “3,” and so on
- 4Cut the plywood panels to the appropriate size with a saw. The height of the panels should correspond to the distance between the floor and the ceiling in the room that will be paneled with them. When adding ceiling molding, make the panels 14 inches (0.6 cm) shorter than they would otherwise be
- 5 Make the necessary cuts for any electrical outlets. Making use of a piece of chalk, heavily outline the perimeter of the wall outlet cover on which the outlet is located. Take the piece of plywood that will be used to cover that section of the wall and secure it in place with your fingers. Tap the section of the panel that is directly above the outlet to ensure that the chalk outline is transferred to the back of the panel, as shown. Remove the panel and use a saw to cut off the chalk perimeter on the plywood
- 6 Create the cuts for any doors and windows that will be used. Mark the beginning and ending points of the panel that will be used to cover the door or window. To find out how much space there is between the marks and the edges of the door or window, take a measurement. Identify the height of the top and bottom of the window from the floor if you are covering a window with a blind. If you’re measuring a door, take note of how high the top of the door is above the floor
- Otherwise, take your measurements elsewhere.
- Make a mark on the plywood panel in the shape of the window or door based on the measurements you took. To cut off the shape, use a circular saw.
- 1Remove any trim that may be present on the walls. Putty knife between the wall and one end of the trim and pry the trim away from the wall using a 3-inch (7.6-cm) length of putty. Take a pry bar and use it to pry the trim away from the wall by 1 inch (2.5 cm) at a time. Continue working your way down the wall until you’ve successfully removed the entire strip of trim. Repeat the process for all of the trim on the walls that will be covered with paneling. 2 Remove any wallpaper that may have been installed on the walls. Using a sponge or a floor mop, soak the wallpaper in water until it is completely saturated. Allow 15 minutes for the water to seep into the wallpaper and get absorbed. Using a putty knife, carefully scrape the wallpaper away from the walls after 15 minutes. More water should be applied as needed.
- As soon as you’ve removed the wallpaper, spray the walls with a gel stripper to aid in the removal of any remaining paste.
- 3 Remove any receptacle covers that may be covering electrical outlets. To begin, turn off the electricity in the room where you’re working by switching the breaker switch for that particular room. In the electrical panel for the house, the switch should be located somewhere. Remove the receptacles from their mounting brackets by unscrewing the screws that hold them in place. Place the receptacle and screw in a plastic bag so that you don’t lose them
- 4 Make certain that the walls are level. Check the level using a level. Place the edge of the level against the portion of wall that you’re inspecting to ensure it’s accurate. Whenever the bubble in the liquid-filled tube is located between the two black lines, the portion of wall is considered to be level. In this case, the wall isn’t level since it’s off to the side of the lines.
- Fine-grit sandpaper can be used to smooth off raised portions on the walls. The plywood paneling will perform best when installed on a level surface
- Install panel adhesive on the walls by applying it with a caulking gun. Begin by painting a small portion of wall in a corner of the space. Exert pressure on the caulking gun’s handle to force panel glue out of the gun. Apply a quarter-size quantity of the panel glue to the wall with a paintbrush. Repeat the process every 10 inches (25.4 cm) up, down, and across the portion of wall where the first plywood panel will be installed
- Only one portion of the wall should be covered with the panel adhesive. Wait until you’ve finished installing the paneling in that part before moving on to the next one. It is possible to get a caulking gun and panel glue from your local hardware shop.
- 2Insert the first plywood panel into the glue on the wall with your fingertip. The backside of the paneling that you wish to conceal should be facing the wall when it is not in use. Roll the panel into the glue with a rolling pin to ensure it is securely fastened. 3 Finishing nails of 1 14 inch (3.2 cm) length should be driven into the top and bottom of the panel. The nails will help to guarantee that the panel remains in position. Make sure there is a nail every 6-12 inches (15.2-30.5 cm) on the top and bottom of the panel by spacing the nails evenly.
- Finishing nails may be found at your local hardware shop or online. Look for nails that are the same color as the plywood panels
- If you can’t find any, paint them.
- Finishing nails may be found at your local hardware shop or home improvement center. To choose a nail color that matches the plywood paneling, look for ones that are the same shade as the plywood.
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- Question How can I construct panel molding around the bottom of my walls if I don’t have any plywood? Chicago, Illinois-based Habitar Design and its sibling firm Stratagem Construction are led by Mitchell Newman, who serves as the company’s Principal. He has more than 20 years of expertise in the construction, interior design, and real estate development industries, among others. Expert Response from a Construction Professional
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- In order to paint the paneling, you’ll need a heavy-duty paint (oil-based paint or acrylic latex paint) that can withstand the wear and strain of daily life, such as people bumping into the wall and throwing items against it. If you’re painting the paneling, you’ll also need a primer.
Things You’ll Need
- The following tools and materials are required: Tape measure, Plywood panels, pencil, saw, chalk, 3-inch (7.6 cm) putty knife, Pry bar, screwdriver, sandpaper, caulking gun, panel glue, rolling pin, hammer, finishing nails
About This Article
Summary of the ArticleXPaneling your walls with plywood is a simple and inexpensive method to enhance your decor. Before you can start putting up the panels, you’ll need to use a saw to cut the wood to the length of the walls in your room. You’ll also need to construct cuts for things like doors, windows, and electrical outlets. As soon as they’ve been cut, use a caulking gun to apply glue to the walls every 10 inches or so, or as needed. Then, press a plywood panel against the wall and nail it to the wall at the top and bottom to keep it in place.
Allow approximately half an inch of space between each panel in case the wood expands or contracts as a result of seasonal variations.
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A brief history of plywood walls is provided here, followed by a step-by-step guide on how to install them. This summer, we relocated our leather business to the state of Washington and into a new workshop facility. The workshop was in desperate need of some TLC, and one of the first things that needed to be done was to sheathe the walls in plywood, which took some time. I picked plywood merely because there were only two alternatives available to me. Drywall or plywood are both acceptable options.
I also believe that drywall is a poor choice for a workshop since it does not allow for the easy installation of shelves, brackets, and hangers wherever they are required.
I had initially planned to use ancient wood planks to provide a little character to the area, but the reality of the situation dictated that this would be a terrible choice owing to non-uniformity in wall thickness, warping, odors, and insect infestation, among other factors.
You can simply repeat these steps over and over until your project is completed once you have mastered the basics of measuring, cutting to width, cutting obstruction holes, fastening, and securing.
Oh, and for those who have workshops in their garages that are linked to their homes, make sure to check your local building codes to see whether plywood is permitted. You may use it in a variety of locations; however, it cannot be used on the wall that is shared with the home.
PART 1: Tools and Materials
You won’t require much in order to get this project started. Note that the tools I use were acquired by me on my own dime and that I do not receive any money for demonstrating their capabilities (similar tools from other brands will work quite well too). The image at the top of this post shows my tools, which are listed in the following order: track saw and track (used to cut plywood to width or length, or other odd angles), battery operated jigsaw (used to cut out holes or other obstructions), deck screws (9 x 2′′ length GRK brand), drill with screw bit, drill bit slightly larger than the width of the blade on the jigsaw, work gloves, t-square 36′′, pencil, notepad, measuring tape, protective glasses (to raise plywood off ground level).
- Afterwards, you’ll need to make a decision on which sort of plywood to use.
- I genuinely despise the appearance of the normal lower-cost plywood that can be found at most home improvement stores.
- I ended myself having to pay a little more for something called ‘Sande’ plywood than I had originally planned.
- It seems like a lot of folks were having problems with ‘voids’ in their plywood, which is something you don’t want in any woodworking project.
- Because the grain pattern is not very noticeable, it almost appears to be part of the background.
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In order to get this project started, you won’t need much money or materials. Note that the tools I use were acquired by me on my own dime and that I do not receive any pay for demonstrating their use (similar tools from other brands will work quite well too). The image at the top of this post shows my tools, which are listed from top to bottom: a track saw and track (used to cut the plywood to width or length, or other odd angles), a battery operated jigsaw (used to cut out holes or other obstructions), deck screws (9 x 2′′ length GRK brand), a drill with a bit for screws, a drill bit slightly larger than the width of the blade on the jigsaw, work gloves, a t- (to raise plywood off ground level).
It goes without saying that selecting the proper sort of plywood will be necessary after that.
Most of the plywood available at home improvement stores is of a low quality, which I find to be aesthetically unappealing.
Ultimately, I had to pay a little more for a type of plywood called ‘Sande.’ According to my web study, it does not appear to be the ideal sort of wood to use for finer cabinets; nevertheless, for a workshop wall, I believe it will be enough.
Two factors influenced my decision to go with this style: it was still in the lower price range and it had a fairly flat appearance. It doesn’t stand out much because the grain pattern isn’t particularly prominent.
PART 2: Planning for Obstructions
Every wall will ultimately contain an outlet, a pipe, or some other impediment that you will have to work around in order to complete your project. For this tutorial, I picked a point of the game where there are two obstacles to overcome. We’ll need to drill a hole above it to accommodate the outlet. A steel bar is located just above the outlet, which serves to support the construction of the store. The bar is fastened directly below the topmost point of the wall, where it will be linked to the ceiling.
I’ll need to use wood shims to assist keep the far side of the plywood elevated above the floor so that everything remains level during the construction process.
It also helps if you spill something along the wall since it won’t go all the way up into the wood as it would otherwise.
PART 3: Measuring
It was my decision to cover the walls with plywood up to the 8-foot mark in my particular situation. Simply put, this made sense because the plywood sheets are 8 feet long and I don’t have a great deal of need to cover the walls above that point. When you begin the measurement, make sure to position the shim directly beneath any impediments for which you will be drilling holes in the wall. Because the plywood will not come into contact with the floor, I positioned the shim directly below the electrical outlet in the picture above.
- Making use of the measuring tape, I aligned it up to the edge of the steel structural beam where the plywood would be installed.
- Then make a note of the distance that is approximately 3/16 of an inch beyond the outer edge of the outlet.
- After that, I placed the measuring tape on the shims that are approximately the same height as the steel base that I indicated previously.
- A stepping stool or small ladder will come in useful for measuring the next obstacle as well as for when you will need to screw the plywood into place at the top of the structure, among other things.
- Because this piece of steel is inserted at a slant, the hole created for it will be bigger than you may expect.
- After that, I took measurements from the top of where the plywood will be attached all the way down to around 3/16 ” below the steel support.
While measuring, I make a point of writing everything down on a piece of paper. All dimensions are taken from the right edge or from the bottom of the object (with the exception of that top hole).
PART 4: Cutting to Width
In my instance, because it was the first portion, I did not need to cut the plywood sheet’s width any shorter, but I will demonstrate how to do so in the following section. As soon as you reach the end of a wall, you will need to trim the sheet to match the space – else your wall may not be sheathed all the way up to 8 feet like mine was. In any instance, you must first determine how broad of a piece of wood you will need to purchase. Then, using the tape measure, draw a mark towards the bottom of the plywood board at the width you want.
- In this case, the idea is that you now have two markings that you may use to align the track for the track saw cut.
- Place your track saw on the track and connect the dust collecting hose to the track saw.
- All of the other settings on your track saw should be adjusted and tightened as well.
- Afterwards, with the plywood sheath resting on top of the foam insulation, you may proceed to cutting.
PART 5: Cutting the Holes
After the plywood piece has been cut to the desired width or height, the next step is to cut out and drill the necessary holes for the electrical outlets, as well as for any extra pipes or other fittings. The following is the technique I used to make holes in the centre of the board. To put it another way, I transfer the height measurement I obtained previously for the electric box from the ground (shim) up, starting at the bottom edge of the board and working my way up to very near to the side.
- Using the T-square, I aligned it at the lower measurement and then sought to transfer the distance from the edge of the plywood to the plywood itself.
- Square’s Considering that completing math in the imperial system might be perplexing at times, this provided a difficulty.
- In order to get around this problem, the height markers should be placed on the board’s opposite side edge instead.
- Next, starting at the edge you initially started with and working your way out along the line you just formed, measure all the way out to 37 3/8′′ using the measuring tape.
- Then link the height lines together using the back of a t-square after you have taken the width measurements on both height lines.
- I used a 5/16 drill bit to match the width of the saw blade.
- Above is an example of what it should look like.
The moment I chose to check beneath the plywood to make sure I had adequate clearance, I was ecstatic.
If I had done that, I would have chopped straight through the 2×4 rail that supported it.
After repositioning the plywood on the table to provide more room, I cut the hole with a jigsaw to ensure proper alignment.
I next translated the measurements for the steel support bar at the top of the board to the new piece of plywood.
After that, you’ll want to note how far down the cut will go.
The corners were then drilled out using a drill.
When I started to put the board in position, it got trapped on the bottom side of the steel bar.
This was preventing the plywood from being able to raise itself above the lowest piece of steel.
When I reinstalled the plywood on the wall in the proper location, I discovered a minor angle gap on the side of the wall near the steel beam that needed to be filled.
Normally, I would have gone back and cut that angle into the side of the plywood to make it fit perfectly.but since the angle would be mostly concealed against a support beam, I opted to leave it as is and go forward.
It’s a little off-center, but I can conceal it by using a mudring to push the outlet outwards, followed by a cover plate to cover up the hole.
The one you see in the middle is merely an additional component that isn’t currently supporting the piece you see in the middle.
I can expose them by pressing on the vapor barrier, which will allow me to create a mark on the plywood for each screw location on the side of the plywood that I want to use.
In an ideal world, your studs would be perfectly aligned.
Unlike most studs, mine have a delicate curvature to them.
Then, every 12 inches from the edge of the board, put a mark on the board.
Now, for the imperfect world scenario: put a mark on the other edge of the board, where the stud is located, with a pencil.
Connect the dots with the edge of a long straight ruler or a beautifully cut plywood scrap piece by connecting the dots with the edge of a long straight ruler.
I selected 92-inch deck screws because they are the quickest and easiest to install, and they also help to pull the plywood tight to the studs at the conclusion of the project.
For a job of this nature, this saves a significant amount of time.
If I need to, I can subsequently fill in the gaps with wood putty and sand them down rapidly before painting them.
The final plywood sheath may be seen here. It’s more noticeable on the bottom row of screws that my stud is curved than it is on the top row of screws. You just measure from the edge of the current sheath and repeat the process for the following sheath. It’s a rather simple job!
Help me support my little leather store in the United States by purchasing a long-lasting wallet or belt that will endure for 100 years!
How to Install Plywood Wall Paneling
Paneling may be purchased right now by clicking here.
Recommended Tools and Supplies For Most Wall Paneling Installations
Putty sticks, a tape measure, and a ruler Wood filler, leveling compound, and adhesive Caulk Hammer, caulking gun, crayon or lipstick, finishing/paneling nails, screwdriver, jigsaw, 2-inch foam brush, Shims,pencil or Drill, stain or paint tips, caulking gun, hammer Wearing safety eyewear and ear protection while working on your project is highly recommended. Wearing a dust mask when cutting and producing wood dust is recommended. Remember to always think about what you’re about to do before you do it to safeguard yourself and anybody else who may be in the vicinity of your work area.
- You’ll begin at one of the corners of the wall and make your way around the entire thing.
- It is common practice to use cutouts for major openings (such as windows and doors) to panel tiny sections, such as the space above a window.
- Panels with adhesive can be applied directly to surfaces that are level, sound, and free of contaminants.
- Remove any protrusions from the wall in order to ensure a smooth fit.
- If there is a doorway in one of the walls you are paneling, pull the trim around the entrance away from the doorway and discard it.
- Adding furring strips to your walls will produce a level, grid-like surface if your walls are not plumb.
- Use 1″ x 2″ or 1″ x 4″ kiln-dried timber, or 1/2″ plywood strips cut into 2″ broad strips, for the frame.
Add a strip to the bottom of the structure.
Make sure to acclimatize (or adapt) your panels to the environment before you begin.
For above-grade installations, allow for at least 24 hours of standing time.
Remove all of the trimming.
Having acclimated the panels to the environment, position them throughout the room in an appealing arrangement of grain, pattern, and color to make the room look more spacious.
As soon as you have a solid aesthetic sequence in place, number each panel’s back side according to the order in which they will be mounted on the wall.
Because of this, the joints will be less obvious.
TO DETERMINE THE LOCATION OF SWITCH AND OUTLET HOLE LOCATIONS Before cutting panels, double-check all of your dimensions.
Switches and outlets can be cut around by turning off the electricity at the main panel, then removing the cover plate from the switch or outlet that has to be cut around.
When the panel comes into touch with the box, an outline of the lipstick or crayon will be left on the panel as a result.
Check to be that the panel aperture is resting on the wall and not on the lip of the box before proceeding.
IN ORDER TO AFFECT THE PANELING TO THE WALL Panel glue and finishing nails should be used to attach the paneling to the wall.
Placing the panel on the wall and pressing it into the glue is the next step.
With a rolling pin, roll the panel back onto the wall where it was originally installed.
Finally, drive finishing nails into the top of the panel to secure it in place.
The same process should be followed to keep the neighboring sheet of paneling in place, but leave a little space between the two sheets to allow for movement during seasonal fluctuations (use a dime as a guide).
The stain you applied to the wall will assist in concealing the gap. For any flaws or defects in the paneling, colored putty sticks of wood filler can be used to fill them in. Complete the installation of the remaining molding and door trim.
Exposed Plywood Wall Finish
Go ahead and do it – I get what you’re aiming at, and I appreciate the connections. It appeals to me much. In addition, you’re speaking my language when it comes to plywood, spec buildings, and Passive House ideals. In the realm of gyp interiors, skinning a room in plywood may be a surprising source of magnificence. The majority of builders will answer with a “wha.?” but that aspect will be figured out later. The selection of plies is critical and takes some time. I’d check to make sure it exceeded minimum fire requirements, so there would be no gyp below.
- Having said that, I believe your attachment concept is sound.
- I believe that everything should be interpreted as “field” – there should be no fastening pattern.
- Using finish carpentry techniques such as returning to each fastener place with color putty, and so on, would be less appealing to me.
- As previously said, I do not believe that you are attempting to create a massive, well completed furniture-grade application.
- The majority of the time, your builder will have to cut a new edge on practically every piece of plywood if you choose one of the several ply kinds that are good one side only.
- Corners are akin to the point at where the rubber hits the road.
- Most likely not.
- That’s a difficult cut to make look good over long edges, and it’s probably too fiddly and not very durable as well.
- This project does not necessitate the purchase of 200 dollar per sheet Baltic birch.
Plywood or Drywall? ⋆ ThePlywood.com
Since the 1950s or 1960s, the majority of new homes have had their inside walls completed with drywall, which is more accurately referred to as gypsum board. Although commonly referred to as sheetrock, the term really refers to gypsum board made by United States Gypsum Company (USG) (United States Gypsum Corp.). This very affordable engineered material was created to provide as an alternative for plaster and lath wall construction. It produces a smooth, paintable wall in a fraction of the time and work required by plaster and lath, and when properly polished, textured, and painted, it is virtually indistinguishable from plaster in appearance.
Drywall sheets are available in the same sizes as plywood (4’x 8′) and are usually 1/2 inch thick, although 1/8″, 1/4″, 3/8″, and 5/8″ thicknesses are also available.
The tape and drywall mud will not protrude in this manner, making the protrusion less noticeable.
In the case of walls, it is typical to put drywall horizontally in order to allow the “hidden” joint to run horizontally down the wall.
The reason behind this is that a small vertical protrusion is less apparent than a longer one, and a horizontal protrusion going all around the room, halfway up the wall, would be considerably more noticeable than the shorter vertical ones.
Benefits of Drywall
The primary motivation for the development of drywall was the economic savings that might be realized by lowering the amount of skilled labor required to finish walls. While there is some talent required in taping and finishing drywall, it is a considerably lower level of skill and involves far less time than nailing up lath strips, putting the cement inter-coating, and then floating the plaster on top of that layer of cement inter-coating. OSB and Drywall,Mindy Georges Construction, Inc. In the beginning, drywall was sluggish to acquire popularity, since it was perceived by many as a lowering of the quality of the craftsmanship that was going into the home; nonetheless, it soon gained traction.
Benefits of Plywood
If you are seeking for a warm, natural aesthetic, plywood has some significant benefits over drywall and should be considered as an option to that material. The sterility of plasterboard does not give much warmth, however the natural warmth of wood grain does so. So, what exactly are these advantages? When we talk about plywood walls, we commonly refer to them as “paneled walls,” which is an abbreviation. Refers to thin, cheap wood paneling that is typically printed to seem like wood grain to save money on installation.
This type of wall covering may be seen in many high-end residences and business boardrooms as well.
- Lower weight– Plywood is actually less in weight than a sheet of drywall of equal thickness. Each square foot of drywall weighs 2.75 pounds, but a 5/8′′ sheet of plywood weighs between 1.8 and 2.1 pounds, depending on the type of plywood used. Installation is simpler since plywood may be utilized in its natural state, without the requirement for tape and finishing. The only finish most people use is a couple of coats of varnish, which is usually plenty. If you select hardwood plywood, the grain patterns create a distinctive and appealing finish that does not require the employment of complicated painting procedures. There are a variety of various fasteners that may be used to connect plywood to a wall, depending on the “appearance” that is desired. Damage-resistance– Plywood is significantly stronger than drywall in terms of strength. Simple horseplay or striking a drywall wall with a piece of furniture when moving in might cause a drywall wall to crack or even collapse. To be sure, damage to drywall is less difficult to fix than damage to plywood, but it’s preferable not to have the damage to worry about in the first place. In particular, laundry rooms, garages, and other “utilitarian” places within the home benefit from this treatment. Strength in the structural sense– If you’ve ever attempted to hang a large painting or mirror on a drywall wall, you’re well aware of how structurally weak drywall is. In reality, you can’t trust on the drywall to support the weight, and you’ll need to find an exposed stud to nail the hanger into instead. Plasterboard enables you to hang portraits, mirrors, and even bookcases almost anywhere without the worry of the wall crumbling or the attachment sliding off.
Installing Plywood Interior Walls
Authentic plywood walls are built over drywall in situations when a “one hour burn through wall,” such as between two contiguous dwellings, is required by fire code. However, if this is not a necessity, it can be directly linked to the structural studs of the structure. The plywood is attached to the wall using a combination of glue and screws. During the construction process, glue serves as the primary fastener, with nails serving mostly to keep the plywood panels in place while the adhesive cures.
- Depending on the condition of the existing plywood and whether you need to raise low places by adding more drywall mud, you may need to prepare the wall so that the plywood can be attached in a level and smooth manner.
- Panels of cabinet grade plywood, which are used to cover walls, should be positioned so that they are vertically aligned.
- It is possible that the proportions of your space need the addition of a narrow strip at one end of the wall.
- Preparing for installation will also include making cuts for windows, doors, light switches, and electrical outlets.
- It is adequate to leave the panels in the room for 24 hours to let them to acclimate to the temperature and humidity.
- Every ten inches, you’ll want to apply an adhesive circle of approximately one inch in diameter.
- Ensure that you only apply enough glue for one panel at a time to avoid the adhesive drying before you can get to it.
- Then, using finish nails, attach the panels to the wall at the top and bottom of the panels.
- For as long as the sheet has been pushed to the wall and has nails at both ends, there is no need to nail it along its long edges.
- It is also possible to paint plywood with latex paint, but why would you want to do so?
- Although you’d want to use this to conceal your seams, the two-foot grid gives it a more ornamental appearance rather than the appearance that you’re simply attempting to conceal anything.
The visual attractiveness of this style ceiling is enhanced by staining the beams in a color that contrasts with the plywood.
Wood plank, another alternative
Another option is to cover the walls with wood planking rather than plywood sheets, which is a more natural look. You can either purchase wood flooring planks or imitation wood flooring planks, or you can use dimensional lumber such as 1″ x 4″s or 1″ x 6″s. Alternatively, if you have access to a band saw, you can resaw 2″x 4″s to create your own 1/4″ thick planks by resawing 2″x 4″s. The most expensive version of this style wall is created by using wood planking or imitation wood planking that is intended for use as flooring instead of plaster.
- Additionally, those boards will most likely be adhesive backed, which makes it possible to install them by simply pressing them up against your existing wall.
- If you do this type of wall treatment, one of the benefits is that you can stain the wood planks with various colors, giving the planks a lot of visual variety and resulting in a very attractive wall.
- Regardless of the type of planks you choose to use, you’ll want to stagger the ends of the planks when installing them, just as you would for a hardwood flooring installation.
- When making your cuts, avoid following a pattern.
- To attach the boards to the existing wall, a pneumatic brad or finish nailer can be used to drive the nails through the boards.
- It is necessary for anything attached to the wall to pass through the planks and into the wall studs behind it.
- It is possible to obtain the necessary materials at an extremely low cost by using pallet wood or construction grade 2″x 4″ boards, which you have resawn yourself on a band saw.
- Aside from that, it will assist you in having boards of varying lengths.
Advantages of Drywall Over Plywood
There are various advantages to using drywall rather than plywood when creating a ceiling. The first is the price. In comparison to drywall, plywood is significantly more costly, particularly if you are choosing cabinet quality hardwood plywood. This is a major reason why plywood has not been utilized more frequently as an interior wall treatment on a wide range of projects. The second advantage of drywall is that it is far less difficult to cut and install than plywood. Plywood must be cut with a saw; in the case of construction, this is commonly a portable circular saw with a fine blade.
- Cutting drywall, on the other hand, is accomplished by scoring the appropriate “cut line” with a utility knife and cutting through the paper covering with the knife.
- With a surform hand plane, it is simple to repair irregularities in the surface.
- Whereas cabinet grade plywood is often sanded smooth, dry plywood is very absorbent and absorbs a lot of moisture.
- Because drywall’s paper covering is fairly moisture resistant, the initial, sealing coat can be used as part of the final finish as well as the sealing coat.
- For stained and varnished surfaces, the initial layer of varnish has the same effect as a stain, resulting in the necessity to lightly sand the whole surface of the wall before adding an additional coat to protect it.
- Finally, drywall has the benefit because plywood may not exceed the fire-resistance standards of local construction laws, which is a significant advantage.
Plywood is not a fire-resistant material. A wall constructed of 5/8′′ drywall on both sides, on the other hand, satisfies the requirements of the building code. To utilize plywood for its aesthetic qualities, you would need to place it over a layer of drywall, as seen in the example above.
Disadvantages of Drywall
The most significant downside of drywall is that it is susceptible to damage from water. While water may cause damage to almost any wall, drywall will almost completely dissolve, necessitating the messy removal and replacement of the whole wall. Because water wicks up through the walls, it causes damage that extends well above the high water line. As soon as the paper covering is compromised by exposure to water, the weight of the gypsum within the drywall is sufficient to cause the drywall to begin to crumble and fall off the wall.
Drywall also has a relatively poor impact resistance when compared to other building materials.
Consider this when selecting a wall treatment for usage in industrial settings or high-traffic sections of your house, where such an impact is likely to be experienced.
One of the most significant disadvantages of using drywall is that it is susceptible to water damage. In contrast to other types of walls, drywall is completely destroyed by floods, necessitating a messy removal and complete rebuilding of the wall structure. Water wicks up through the drywall, causing damage well above the high water line to the ceiling and walls. As soon as the paper covering is compromised by exposure to water, the weight of the gypsum within the drywall is sufficient to cause the drywall to begin breaking away from the wall and falling off.
Aside from that, drywall has a low impact resistance.
Consider this when selecting a wall treatment for usage in industrial settings or high-traffic sections of your house, where such an impact is likely to be encountered.
- In order for paper tape to operate as an adhesive and give a smooth finish, drywall mud must be applied beneath it and above it. The use of fiberglass tape, which is self-adhesive and just requires the application of drywall mud on top of it to get a smooth finish
It is customary to apply three coats of drywall mud over all taped seams and to cover the fasteners, with the top coat consisting of a finer “finishing compound.” To do this, gradually bigger drywall blades (basically a broad putty knife) are used to apply the layers, resulting in a junction that becomes wider and wider over time. The coats are allowed to cure completely before being sanded between applications of paint. Create a joint that rises so gently and smoothly that it is not apparent when viewed from above.
The most typical method of accomplishing this is to use a texture gun to apply “orange peel” or “knockdown” texture to the walls and “popcorn” texture to the ceiling using a “orange peel” or “knockdown” texture to the ceiling.
Almost every retailer that sells sheetrock will have both wall texture and ceiling texture available for purchase.
Installing drywall over plywood
Drywall may be placed over plywood that is 12 inches thick. This is done in order for the plywood to function as a sound barrier, absorbing any external noise. Because it is less dense than drywall, plywood is preferable for this use. When doing so, CDX grade plywood or OSB is often utilized, as there is no benefit to utilizing more expensive grades of plywood in this situation. Install the plywood sheets to the wall or ceiling in the same manner as you would if you were only installing the plywood sheets alone.
Finish the drywall in the traditional manner.
Installing drywall on curved walls
Drywall is available in thin sheets that are particularly designed to allow the drywall to be utilized on curved surfaces without warping. 1/8 inch thick drywall may be used to create curved archways in rooms, as well as arched ceilings in hallways, and it is also suitable for use in curved walls. Due to the fact that it can only curve in one direction at a time, it cannot be used to create compound curves. If you’ve ever hauled drywall or installed it, you’ve certainly observed that the sheets will flop around and curve, exactly like plywood.
- This is much more noticeable when using 1/8 inch thick drywall, which is developed expressly for the construction of curved walls, archways, and ceilings, among other things.
- The drywall does not need to be completely curved below it, but it does need to have enough connection points to hold the drywall as it makes the curve.
- The 1/8-inch drywall is affixed to the 2″x 4″ structure in the same way as standard walls and ceilings are, with the drywall being bent to suit the framework.
- In order to strengthen the structure, apply extra layers of 1/8 inch drywall over the previous one.
- Continue to finish the surface as though it were a flat wall or ceiling.
Drywall Vs. Plywood for Walls
Since World War II, drywall has been the traditional treatment for interior walls in American households. However, while drywall walls provide a number of advantages, including a smooth and appealing surface, there are alternative solutions available to homeowners for covering the walls in their homes.
Covering walls using plywood rather than drywall provides more strength and ease of installation for situations where a less-than-perfect finish would do, as well as significant cost savings.
For a heavy object to be supported by drywall, you must first find the studs and then drill through the drywall and into the wood studs that lie beyond them to guarantee sufficient support. The use of plywood to cover walls reduces the need to search down studs and other structural elements. Instead, just attach items straight to the plywood, which has the structural strength to hold greater weight than a typical drywall surface and is therefore less expensive. The use of plywood in garages and storage rooms, where homeowners commonly hang tools, bookcases, and other objects from the ceiling, is particularly advantageous.
Ease of Installation
A sheet of 5/8-inch plywood weighs 1.8 to 2.1 pounds per square foot, but a sheet of 5/8-inch drywall weighs 2.75 pounds per square foot. This implies that an ordinary 4-by-8 sheet of drywall might weigh up to 20 to 30 pounds more than a similarly sized piece of plywood of equivalent thickness. Because of the additional weight of the materials, drywall installation becomes a two-person task in many cases, just because of the weight of the supplies. In most cases, taping the joints, using joint compound, and sanding the joints smooth once the hanging is complete are all required steps in the drywall installation process.
Plywood walls, on the other hand, do not require the use of joint compound or tape, with most installers just caulking the gaps between the boards to finish the installation of the material.
A 5/8-inch sheet of plywood weighs between 1.8 and 2.1 pounds per square foot, but a sheet of 5/8-inch drywall weighs 2.75 pounds per square foot, depending on the thickness of the sheet. The average 4-by-8 sheet of drywall can weigh 20 to 30 pounds more than a similar-sized piece of plywood, based on this calculation. Because of the additional weight of the materials, drywall installation becomes a two-person task in many cases, just owing to the sheer weight of the materials being installed.
Performing this procedure effectively is not only time-consuming, but it is also infamously difficult for the typical individual to accomplish.
Choice of Finish
There are considerable variations between plywood and drywall walls when it comes to their visual appeal. The natural wood grain pattern of plywood walls adds texture and warmth to a room while also adding visual interest. Without the wood grain, drywall provides a smooth, ready-to-paint white surface that is ready to be painted. Cabinet- or furniture-grade hardwood plywood (or even MDF-core plywood with a hardwood veneer) coated with a clear topcoat creates a clean, sophisticated, but warm ornamental impact in living rooms and dining rooms.
Drywall is a more traditional finish that offers a wide selection of texturing possibilities, including the well-known knock-down and orange peel textures, among others.