How To Fix A Sagging Interior Door

How to Fix a Sagging Door

It’s possible that you’ve been coping with that sagging door for several years before choosing to take action to fix it. The good news, however, is that repairing sagging doors is a simple, quick, and affordable process. With a few simple tools, you’ll be able to realign the door and have it swinging smoothly in no time.

What Causes Sagging Doors?

Tilting downhill and to the side is the result of a sagging door. When the door is open, the sag is often difficult to detect. Opening and shutting the door, on the other hand, causes the door to scrape against the top of the jamb. Doors with significant sags might become stuck to the point that it is impossible to open or close the door. Doors that droop as a result of the natural aging of a house are not unusual. The top hinge is almost always the root of the problem, and this is true in the vast majority of situations.

Hinges are long-lasting fittings that may be used for many years.

Hinge pins that have come loose may need to be replaced, or the hinge may need to be replaced totally.

Possibly a thin strip of cardboard fitted beneath either hinge leaf, the spacer was most likely intended to make the door fit into the frame even more closely than it already did.

When doors are removed for painting, the entire door edge is painted or stained to match the rest of the door.


  • 3-1/2-inch screws, one 3-inch screw, three coarse-thread screws, and a door hinge are all needed.

Tighten the Existing Hinge Screws

  • Tighten all of the screws in the top hinge with a cordless drill or a manual screwdriver by rotating them in a clockwise direction. Make certain that the screws on both the door and the jamb are properly tightened. Often, just performing this repair is sufficient to correct drooping doors. To avoid overtightening the screws, proceed with caution.

Remove Hinge Spacers

  • If a hinge spacer can be seen, remove the hinge by twisting out the screws on the hinge plate. Remove the spacer, toss it away, then replace the hinge with the new one.

Add New Hinge Screws

  • The standard length of hinge screws is one inch. If you tighten the screws in place and they continue to rotate, you will need to lengthen the screws to compensate for the increased rotation. Screws with a length of 1 1/2 inches are recommended. You might also experiment with replacing the present screws with ones that have a coarser thread.

Replace Hinge Screw With 3-Inch Screw

If your door is drooping, replacing one of the top-hinge screws with a 3-inch-long screw is a highly effective technique to solve the problem. Not only does this work to bring the hinge closer to the door jamb, but it also serves to bring the entire door frame closer to the underlying wall stud.

  1. Remove all three screws from the hinge on the side of the door jamb
  2. This will open the door. In the central hole of the hinge, insert a 3-inch screw driven with a cordless drill. Replace the other two screws in the top and bottom locations with their corresponding counterparts.

Remove Paint From Under the Hinge

  • Remove the hinge in the same manner as you would spacers from under the hinge, and then use the sharp blade of a five-in-one tool to scrape away any accumulated paint from below the hinge

Tighten Top of the Door Jamb

  • To fix a stuck door after you have tightened the door jamb, drive a 3-inch screw into the top of the door jamb on the latch side of the door.

Bend Back the Top Hinge

The door may be removed off its hinges by first removing the pins and then sliding it off the hinges. To install the pin, gently tap the three knuckles (the barrel-shaped section of the pin) with a hammer a few times. Placing a scrap piece of wood between the hammer and the knuckles will help to reduce the force of the hammer.


  • Avoid bending the knuckles more than 1/16 inch from their natural position. If you don’t, you run the danger of misaligning the door with its other hinges.

Sand the Top Edge of the Door

  • Sand the top edge of the door with a hand sander or an orbital sander until it is smooth. Scuff marks that are visible on the surface of the sticking region are generally indicative of its presence.

Sand the Top Section of the Door Jamb

  • The top of the door jamb where the door sticks should be sanded, in a manner similar to that of the top edge of the door.

Install a New Hinge

  1. The natural loosening of certain extremely old hinges occurs as a result of metal rubbing against metal and wearing away the hinge pin. A pin that rattles or slides while in position indicates that the hinge is not as tight as it may be. If this is the case, the hinge should be replaced. It is possible that you will be able to replace the pin with a new one. If you are able to locate a single hinge that matches the other hinges on the door, you should completely replace the hinge. Alternatively, you might choose to replace all three hinges at the same time.

How To Fix Sagging or Sticking Doors

Time Approximately one hour or less Complexity BeginnerCostFree


Unstick your doors by working on the hinges and, if required, pulling out the planer to loosen them up.

Tools Required

  • 3-inch screws, varnish, wood filler, wood shims, and wood stain are all required.

The conventional procedure for repairing a stuck door is to plane the rubbing edge so that it may swing freely once again. This usually works, but it’s a tremendous pain in the rear end. You’ll have to take the door off the hinges and haul it to the garage.

After the planing is completed, you must refinish the edge that was planed. Take advantage of the three shortcuts provided here before going to all of that difficulty. In the vast majority of situations, one of these will resolve your stuck door problem.

Watch this video to see how simple fixing a nuisance door can be:

Screws mysteriously loosen themselves over the course of a lifetime. If your door scrapes towards the top or drags on the floor, tighten the screws with a screwdriver rather than a drill to alleviate the problem. When using a drill, you have a greater chance of overtightening the screw and stripping the screw holes or chewing up the screwheads as a result.

Make Sure All the Screws are Tight

Tighten the hinge screws in both the door and the jamb to ensure a secure fit. Screwdrivers should be used rather than drills to secure them securely in place in order to avoid stripping the screw holes. Step No. 2

Replace the Screw Closest to the Doorstop

To employ this approach, begin by removing a screw located around the middle of the hinge (rather than the top or bottom screw).

  • Drill a 3-inch screw into the wall with a drill
  • When the screw is snug against the hinge, give the screwdriver another quarter turn to tighten it even further. Close the door to make sure it fits properly. Continue tightening and testing until the door does not stick any more.
  • Advice from the pros: Keep an eye on the door trim while you tighten the screws. If you see that you are creating gaps between the trim joints, stop immediately. The possibility exists that you will be unable to pull in a hinge at all because the jamb is already too tight against the frame or shims
  • However, this is unlikely.

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Fix2: Draw In the Jamb

The adjustment of the hinge is actually only a variation on the previous adjustment of the hinge. The jamb can be drawn in by putting a long screw through it from the “latch” side rather than the hinge side of the jamb. This gives the door a bit more space. This should only be attempted if drawing in the hinges does not work; otherwise, you will be left with a huge screwhead hole to hide.

Drill Through the Jamb

  • Prepare the screwhead by countersinking it with a countersink bit
  • In the centre of the region where the door is rubbing, screw in a washer and nut.
  • Tighten screws slowly and carefully, keeping an eye on the trim to ensure that no joints are opened. Cover the screwheads with wood filler, sand it down, and then paint or stain it to match the rest of the wood

Fix3: Plane the Door With a Belt Sander

You will have to remove the door and plane it if your door continues to stick despite your efforts to tighten and drive screws.

Use a Compass

  • Make a scribble on the door
  • Set the pencil tip and compass point 1/8 in. apart, then run the point down the jamb of the doorframe.
  • Pro tip: Using masking tape makes it easier to see the pencil line.

Sand to Your Mark

Using a belt sander, remove any superfluous wood from the surface. Sand all the way up to the line, but not inside it. Step 6: Organize your thoughts and feelings about the situation.

Check Your Progress

  • Allowing yourself to stop sanding on sometimes will ensure that you’re sanding squarely and not generating a beveled edge. Using a belt sander, remove any superfluous wood from the surface. Sand all the way up to the line, but not beyond it

Seal the Edge

Stain or paint the sanded edge when it has dried. To avoid slopping polyurethane over the door’s face while varnishing the edge, use a lint-free cloth rather than a brush to apply the polyurethane.

8 Ways to Fix a Sagging Door

Many things might cause a door to droop, including loose screws, dampness on the wood, and foundation problems. Here are some examples: Consequently, the plate cannot properly latch onto the door, and a draft can be allowed to blow through the drooping position of the door when this occurs. How well do you know how to repair or replace a sagging door? Standard procedure is to remove the door from the frame, sandpaper or plane it through, repair it, and refinish it. While this process does need more time and effort, it is also not as dependable as the previous one.

An illustrated approach to repairing a sagging door is provided below.

Easy ways on How to Fix a Sagging Door

Examine the door from all sides, including the interior and outside, and from all angles of the hinges. These procedures will enable you to determine the severity and root cause of the sagging.

Identify the areas where the door has a gap or does not close completely. Typically, the bottom hinge of sagging doors is closer against the jamb than the top hinge. It’s possible that the top of the door on the side facing the sill has some extra room so that it doesn’t hit it.

2. Inspect the Door and Frame

You should also use a Carpenter’s Square and a bubble level to ensure that the door and frame are both level. Place the bubble level over the jamb’s left, right, and top sides, and then check to see if it is between the viewer’s line and the jamb’s left and right sides. Now, using a steel square, check to see whether all of the sides are plumb and if any of them have strayed from 90 degrees. You may discover that the door is level, but the frame is not, as a result of your investigation. If the frame appears to be out of square, you may want to investigate the foundation settlement or displaced wall.

3. Examine and Fasten the Hinge Screws

Look for any loose hinge screws as you open the door and tighten them to the door and the frame as you go. Using a screwdriver as a drill will prevent them from being too tight, which is not a good thing. When you encounter any resistance on the driver, you may be sure that the hinge is not properly aligned in its position. Keep an eye out for overtightening, as this can cause the joint to get even further out of line. After that, if the doors are still sagging, try the following approach.

4. Find and Fill Out Stripped Holes

In the event that you discover torn holes in your door, use a doorstop to temporarily support the weight of the door. Remove the hinges with stripped holes from the frame and doorpost by unscrewing them and pulling them out. Then, using a dowel of appropriate size soaked in carpenters glue, patch up the holes. It is possible to obtain these ingredients immediately from any store. Allow the adhesive to cure before drilling a proper-sized screw hole in the jamb and reinstalling the hinge screws in their original positions.

5. Put Longer Screws in Place of Short One’s

If the door continues to droop even after you have tightened the hinge screws, you should consider using longer screws for your straps. To begin, loosen the short bolts from the upper hinge and measure the length to see if it is up to two and a half inches. If this is not the case, you may need to replace the screws with longer ones in order to reach the wall stud over the jamb. Shorter screws are unable to withstand the weight of the door any longer. As a result, remove the existing screws and predrill a new hole into the jamb before installing the larger screws.

6. Attach a Shim between the Door Jamb and Hinge

To assist align the door, you can place shims made of cardboard, wood chips, or cards to the centre of the jamb and hinge to aid with alignment. This process continues to be one of the most effective ways to correct a misaligned door. Now, gently pry out the right hinge, primarily the top one, and trace the form of the hinge onto the shim using a pencil. You should be familiar with how to shim a door hinge in order to complete this stop effectively. If you use this approach, you must incrementally add thin materials to the mortise in order to get a consistent level.

Because of the numerous technicalities involved, it may be necessary for you to properly attach the shims to the other hinges. Adding and subtracting shim pieces until the mixture is plum would be necessary because there is no predetermined amount of pieces required.

7. Mortising the Hinge on the Door

When it comes to repairing a sagging door, another option is to mortise the hinges on the door. Before you remove the hook from its original location, you should make a mark on the ground where it will be placed. After you have removed the hinge, you will need to chisel out a new gap. After removing the door hinges, one of the most lasting remedies to door hinge difficulties is to mortise the door hinges. Prior to carving out a new mark on the hinge location with a knife, make sure you trace the contours of the hinge position with a pencil first.

To produce a relief within the perimeter of the drawings, lightly tap the chisel with a hammer.

The depth of the mortise will be determined by the amount of sagging in the door.

8. Planing and Sanding Door to Fix Sagging

If none of the other ways work, you may have to resort to using a plane and sandpaper to finish the job. If you have already secured screws or attempted the process of adjusting door hinges, but have received favorable results, the planning and sanding procedure is the last option to consider. A key piece of this information is the ability to scribe a door where the planning will come to an end. To begin, use a carpenter’s compass to mark the door at a point 18 inches from the edge facing the jamb on both sides.

  1. Because you’ll be sanding the opposite edge of the door, there won’t be any need to release the hinge screws from the door.
  2. With a belt sander, sand or plane the edge that has been marked.
  3. The 120-grit sandpaper is required for the smoothing and finishing stages of the process.
  4. You may now repaint the edge once it has been smoothed.
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Repaint the Smoothened Edge

It’s possible that you’ll want to refinish and repaint the edge when you’ve finished planing it. When you have finished sanding, you should proceed to the next step. Repainting the wood will not only make it seem more consistent with the other edges, but it will also protect it from moisture damage and potential drooping.

Wrap Up

There are several procedures to repairing a sagging door, but only a few of them may be completed by the homeowner.

It is recommended that you go through our tutorial completely before attempting to repair your door hinge difficulties. In conclusion, always experiment with several methods before sanding or planing your wood. Furthermore, you have the option of

  • Longer screws are used in place of shorter ones
  • The screws are tightened
  • The stripped holes are filled
  • And shims are attached to the hinge and jamb.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them in the comment box below this article.

Blog – How Do You Fix A Sagging Interior Door?



Posted by an anonymous visitor One of the home improvement repair projects that you should be familiar with is how to fix a stuck door. There are three basic factors to check for when it comes to a sagging door: a swelling door as a result of moisture intrusion, misaligned or loose hinges, or a shifting door frame. In most cases, the hinges are to blame for stuck doors, and replacing them is a rather simple procedure.

Causes of a Sagging Door

A door will begin to droop over time as a result of the pressure placed on its fasteners, and eventually they will be unable to sustain the weight of the door. Consequently, the door leans away from the jamb and might either stick in the grate or jamb or swing open. The short wood screws used in interior doors are not designed to support a greater amount of weight, and they eventually come loose. It might also be caused by a door frame that is not square.

Tighten the Hinges

First and foremost, you must inspect the hinges to ensure that they are in good working order before proceeding. If the screws in the hinge plate are not securely fastened, give them a slight twist with a screwdriver to tighten them. Test the door by applying upward pressure to check if it is still stuck in the open position. If this is the case, a ratcheting screwdriver might be appropriate; nevertheless, you must be careful not to overdrive the screws.

Replace the Hinge Screws

If tightening the screws does not alleviate the problem, you will need to replace the hinge screws altogether. Begin by removing the screws from the top and bottom of the cabinet. Once you’ve done so, use a drill driver to replace them with screws that are three inches or longer. It will provide a foothold for the screw as it passes through the door jamb and into the wall stud’s framing structure. Then repeat the procedure for the lower hinge as well as for the upper hinge.

Straighten The Hinge

If the hinge knuckles still appear a little wonky after you’ve tightened the hinge leaves, there is a chance that your knuckles will be bent. To bend the knuckles a little closer to the hinge jamb, you’ll need an adjustable wrench or a large set of tongue-and-groove pliers with huge jaws. You must, however, exercise caution in order to avoid overindulging. You should cease bending the knuckles as soon as you observe that the door opens without sticking.

Other Easy Fixes

Doors that are bloated or out of square might cause them to become stuck. If you observe that there isn’t much rubbing, pound the troublesome part of the door jamb outward with a hammer to see if it helps. If tapping doesn’t work, you might try sanding the area with a 150-grit or finer sandpaper to create a bit more room. You don’t want to sand too much since it will reveal the naked wood below. It is preferable to lightly sand the surface and check to see if the door sticks or not. What’s the bottom line?

This problem, we are certain, will be resolved by using the procedures listed above.

In the event that they are unable to resolve the issue, trimming the door would be your last resort. When it comes to trimming the door, we recommend that you seek expert assistance. Do you require assistance? Our managers are available on the internet.

How to Fix a Sticking or Sagging Door

It is common for doors to droop and stick for one of three reasons: the hinges are loose or crooked, the door frame has changed so that it is no longer square, or the door has bloated as a result of moisture. Hinges are the most common source of problems, and hinge repairs are often the least intrusive, so it’s always a good idea to check the hinges before moving on. Before resorting to the final option of extensively sanding or cutting down the door because the frame is out of square or the door has swelled, you should attempt some basic ways to correct the problem.

Tightening Hinges on a Sticking or Sagging Door

The most common cause of drooping doors is a set of loose hinges. When doors droop, they have a tendency to stick because they rub against the door jamb on the latch side of the door opening, which causes the latch to stick. The majority of drooping doors are caused by loose hinges. Normally, this is the case with the top hinge, although it is not unheard of for a bottom hinge to bend under the weight of the vehicle (such as from kids using the door like playground equipment). As a result, it makes sense to inspect hinges for both types of faults.

  • If you hear or feel play in the door, it is likely that one or more hinges are loose.
  • Loose hinges are caused by screws in the door or the door jamb losing their grip, resulting in the door coming undone.
  • If the screws tighten, that’s fantastic.
  • Toothpicks can be used to re-secure stripped screws by making the screw hole smaller, allowing the screw to obtain a better grip.
  1. Take out the problematic screw
  2. Coat a few wooden toothpicks, a wooden skewer, or a golf tee with wood glue (if you don’t have wood glue, normal white glue will work just as well)
  3. Set aside. To finish, insert the toothpicks as far as they will go into the screw hole before snapping or cutting them flush with the door or jamb. Insert the screwdriver into the hole once more. The adhesive will be completely dried after 24 hours. When that fails, try replacing it with a screw that is somewhat bigger and/or longer
  4. Just make sure that the screw head is flush with the hinge.

In addition, there is another solution for a hinge that is loose in the doorjamb: a nut and bolt. Removing the middle screw of the hinge (which should be the one that is closest to the center of the jamb) should be sufficient. Drill a pilot hole in the center of the screw hole with a 3/32-inch (or similar) drill bit to ensure that the screw will fit. Using a drill driver, push a 3-inch flathead wood screw into the hole until it is fully embedded. When the screw is inserted through the door jamb and into the rough door frame, it will tighten the hinge while also drawing the door jamb slightly toward the stud, creating a tightening effect.

Straightening a Hinge on a Sagging Door

If the hinge leaves (the flat metal plates) are tight to the door and jamb, but the hinge knuckles (the cylinders that the hinge pin fits through) appear to be a little wonky, the knuckles may have bent, allowing the door to list toward the latch jamb. If the hinge leaves (the flat metal plates) are tight to the door and jamb, but the hinge knuckles (the cylinders that the hinge pin fits through) appear to be With a big set of tongue-and-groove pliers or an adjustable wrench, you may straighten each knuckle on your left hand side (although it can be tricky to get a grip with a wrench).

Continue to hold the door in place while bending the knuckles slightly (but not too much) toward the hinge jamb. When the door opens without sticking, you should stop bending.

Easy Fixes for a Sticking Door That Doesn’t Fit

In both cases, an out-of-square frame and a swollen door produce the same outcome: The door does not fit into the available space. Door frames get out of square as a result of the settlement of the structural framework surrounding them, which pushes the door frame diagonally. When the humidity rises, the doors bulge up. Because neither of these issues is easily remedied, the best answer is to slightly modify the door frame. To begin, open and close the door many times to pinpoint the location of the rubbing.

  • Give the jamb a couple raps before checking the fit of the door.
  • When you move it just a hair, it can sometimes make a big difference.
  • Sand a bit more and then verify the fit, same like previously.
  • If a little sanding doesn’t fix the problem, you’re better off removing the door, sanding or cutting away portion of the edge, and repainting it.

Sanding or Trimming a Sticking Door That Doesn’t Fit

Only when the door frame has settled sufficiently is it required to do extensive sanding or cutting on the door frame. Either approach is a reliable way to repair a damaged item. Make a note of the section of the door that needs to be sanded or trimmed, and then remove the door and bring it to your work area to complete the project. To sand the door, do the following:

  1. Begin by sanding with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper and a sanding block, or use a power sander to smooth off the surface. Using long, steady strokes, sand down to your desired depth. Rehang the door and check to see that it fits properly, with a little more room to spare. Repeat the rough sanding process as required. Disassemble the door and smooth the sanded area with 150-grit sandpaper before priming and painting the raw wood to match the color of the rest of the door. To get a smoother surface after sanding down to 150-grit, use a 220-grit paper to follow up on the 150-grit paper. After that, polish the bare wood and rehang the door.

If you’re using a power sander, start with 60- or 80-grit paper and a sanding block. With long, steady strokes, sand all the way down to your mark. Place the door back in its original position and check that it still fits with a little extra room. The rough sanding should be repeated if required; Removal of the door and smoothing out of the sanded area with 150-grit sandpaper will be followed by priming and painting the bare wood to match the rest of the door To get a smoother surface after sanding down to 150-grit, use a 220-grit paper to follow up on the 150-grit paper.

  1. Using a straightedge, draw a line across the door to indicate the cutting line
  2. Sharp utility knives are used to score the wood along the cutting line. It may take two or three passes to deeply score the wood. Splintering can occur along the cut edge, and this is especially essential when cutting along the top or bottom of the door (against the grain of the wood)
  3. Securely clamp a straightedge guide to the door in order to guide the saw and produce a clean, straight cut. If you’re cutting along the latch-side edge of the door, use a circular saw to create a bevel that matches the edge of the door (see Warning, below). Using a circular saw, cut the door opening
  4. Finish by sanding the cut edges smooth with 150-grit sandpaper before priming and painting the raw wood to match the color of the rest of the door. For a smoother surface, follow the 150-grit sandpaper with a 220-grit sandpaper after it has been stained or clear-coated
  5. Then refinish the exposed wood and rehang the door.


When a door shuts against a door stop, the latch-side edge is beveled by about 2 to 3 degrees, making the door significantly smaller on the side that closes against the door stop. When sanding or cutting down the edge of the door, take care to keep the bevel consistent.

How to Make Adjustments to a Sagging Door

A common sign that a door is sagging is that it does not remain steady when you leave it ajar; rather, it either swings open or closes when you close it. It is possible that the sagging will increase, causing the door to become stuck in the jamb or interfering with the operation of the doorknob or deadbolt.

Although the drooping might be resolved quickly with simple adjustments (for example, by tightening up loose hinges), it could also be an indication of a more serious problem, such as foundation sinking. This second option allows you to treat the sagging first and the settling subsequently.

Tighten the Screws

  • Using a screwdriver, tighten the hinge screws until they are snug. It is not recommended that you use a drill since there is a greater danger of stripping the screws. After you have tightened all of the screws, open and close the door. It is possible that the situation will be resolved

Replace Loose Screws

  • Using a screwdriver, tighten the hinge screws. When installing the screws, avoid drilling them as there is a greater risk of stripping the threads. Make sure that all of the screws are tightened before opening the door. Maybe we can find a solution to this problem

Place Matchsticks in the Hole

  • If a hole has expanded or a screw won’t bite, pack it with two or three wooden matchsticks smeared with carpenter’s glue to seal it. Allow the adhesive to cure completely before cutting the matchsticks flush with the wood and driving in the original screw.

Measure the Sag

  • If tightening the screws has no impact, use paper to shift the hinge out of the way on either the top or bottom. To measure the sag of the door, place a level against the hinge side of the door and remove the hinge from which you will need to shim it in order to straighten the door. Remove the hinge and replace it with one or two sheets of paper sandwiched between it and the jamb, according per the instructions. Another option is to chisel out the mortise of one of the hinges so that it may be inserted further into the jamb or door.

Draw the Jamb Against the Door Frame

  • A single 3-inch screw driven into the jamb of a stuck door will pull the jamb against the door frame, allowing the door to be released. Using a screwdriver, drive the screw into the jamb at the spot on the jamb where the sticking is most noticeable

Readjust the Jamb

  • If the door is drooping to the point that there is a gap of 1/4 inch or more at the top or bottom of the jamb, the door should be taken down and the jamb readjusted. Make a note of the levels of both side jambs to determine which one has to be re-plumbed first. It’s possible that they’ll both need to be adjusted.

Plumb the Jamb

  • Make use of a pry bar to pry apart the door casing on both sides of the side jamb that has to be adjusted. Pull out the bottom of the jamb and discard the shims that are already in place. Plumb the jamb using a level, then insert fresh shims and attach the jamb to the framing with 12d finish nails to complete the installation. Replace the door casing and rehang the door to complete the project.

Use an Epoxy Putty

  • It is necessary to remove the hinge that is located above the crack and fill it with epoxy putty if the door is drooping due to a cracked door jamb or door frame.

Sand the Wood

  • A door may become stuck if the wood has expanded over the winter. When this occurs, plane the door using a belt sander or a hand plane to ensure that it closes smoothly in its final position. It is necessary to remove the door in order to do this properly.

Things You Will Need

  • The following items are required: screwdriver, long screws, wooden matchsticks, carpenters glue, paper shims, chisel, hammer, level, cedar shims, 12d finish nails
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  1. Obtain the advice of a structural engineer if the sagging door is accompanied by crumbling walls, curling flooring, or other indicators of settlement.

How to Fix a Sagging Door (Without Planing and Sanding)

It is possible that you have observed some (or all) of the following signs if you have a sagging outside door:

  • “Sticking,” which refers to having trouble opening, shutting, or latching a door
  • And Around the edge of the entry door there are gaps, leaks, and drafts. Whether the top or bottom of the door overlaps the door frame is irrelevant.

What is the source of sagging doors? Exterior doors are subjected to a range of changes and damages as a result of many reasons. The following are examples of common reasons of drooping doors:

  • Wear and tear that comes with age
  • Climates that are harsh, with unusually humid weather
  • Establishing the foundations of a home

INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO REPAIR SAGGING DOORS Check the hinges and screws one more time. After some time, screws become loose, allowing the door to slip on its hinges, resulting in the door jamb being misaligned with the door. If the screws are loose, just tighten them with a screwdriver and reposition the door so that it is in proper alignment. Pro tip: When doing this DIY repair, use a screwdriver rather than a drill to prevent stripping the screws and inflicting more damage to your door. Fill in the stripped screw holes and make any necessary adjustments to the hinges.

To fix stripped holes, do the following:

  1. When you remove the affected hinge screws from the door, place something beneath the bottom of the door to support the weight of the door. To pass the time, stacks of periodicals or a large book should suffice. As a general rule, if the screws are less than 2.5 inches in length, they are not long enough to reach the wall stud and adequately support the weight of the door, which is probably what caused the sagging door to begin with in the first place. Upgrade the hinges’ strength by replacing the original screws with longer screws (ideally at least 3″ in length). Remove the screws with a wooden dowel that is slightly bigger in diameter than the original screw holes, then drill new holes that are identical in size to the dowel. A stack of toothpicks soaked in wood glue, or even golf tees, can be used instead of dowels if you’re short on time. Dowels should be cut into many portions, dipped in carpenter’s glue, and inserted into each hole
  2. Allow for a couple of hours of drying time after applying the adhesive. Pre-drill holes into the dowels to prevent them from breaking or peeling when the screws are inserted. In order not to restrip the holes, drill the new screws into the filled holes and through the jamb and wall stud. Be cautious not to overtighten each screw or you will end up having to restrip the holes. Pro tip: When working on this project, start at the top and work your way down, checking the alignment after each screw. It’s possible that all you needed to do to remedy your sagging door was to tweak the topmost hinge.

Shims should be placed between the hinges and the jamb.

  • Remove the faulty hinge from the frame. Mark the location of the hinge on a thin piece of wood, playing cards, or cardboard
  • Cut off the piece of the material that has been traced
  • Shims should be layered behind the hinge and jamb until the hinge and door are perfectly aligned. Again, it’s preferable to start with the top hinge on this one, as is the case with the last one. It is possible that you may need to insert shims behind many hinges, and you can add or remove layers as necessary until the door is perfectly aligned.

Keep in mind that there are a variety of reasons that might contribute to door sagging. From basic concerns such as loose hardware to more major ones such as poor installation and structural challenges, we have you covered. If none of the above-mentioned projects succeed in repairing your sagging door, you may be dealing with a more significant problem. While there are a variety of DIY fixes available, you may want to see a professional if you feel that underlying difficulties are at the bottom of your sagging door’s occurrence. has information on DIY weathersealing techniques and supplies.

Repair Prehung Interior Doors – Home Repair Tutor

Have you noticed that your prehung interior doors cling to the jamb, rub against the floor, or simply don’t lock any longer? You are not alone in your feelings. Earlier this week, I repaired our bathroom door, which had been scratching the floor tile and grinding against the frame. We believe that our children’s habit of hanging heavy wet towels on the door handle contributed to the issue with the door. But don’t be concerned. If you have a prehung interior door that needs to be repaired, there are four straightforward solutions that won’t cost you much money or take up a lot of your time.

What do you think about that for convenience?

  • Hammer, utility knife, shoebox, scissors, pencil, and a drill with driver bits are all necessary tools. Deck or wood screws (2 inches in length) are also required.

Doors that don’t operate correctly are similar to paper cuts in that they are extremely inconvenient.

This tutorial will teach you how to repair a prehung inside door that is drooping, rubbing, or that doesn’t latch correctly. This essay is dedicated to Val, who deserves to be recognized for being an extremely enthusiastic supporter of HRT. Let’s get this party started.

Prehung Interior Door Fix1-Determine Where Your Door is StickingTighten Hinge Screws

It is necessary to establish where your door is rubbing against the floor or frame as the first step in repairing your door (the vertical pieces of wood that your door fits into). There are six possible situations to choose from:

  1. Your door scrapes on the floor below the jamb that contains the strike plate
  2. This is a common problem. Your door scrapes against the floor below the frame that houses the hinges
  3. This is a common problem. Your door pushes up against the top of the jamb, which contains the strike plate, causing it to jam. Because your door is rubbing against the bottom of the jamb, which contains the striking plate, Because of this, the top of the jamb that holds the hinges is rubbed. Your door scrapes against the bottom of the jamb where the hinges are located.

Here are the same six cases, each with a SOLUTION GUIDE to accompany them:

  1. It appears like your door is rubbing up against the floor just below where the strike plate is located (tighten the top hinge or shim the bottom hinge, or both)
  2. It appears like your door is rubbing against the floor below the jamb that houses the hinges (tighten the bottom hinge, shim the top hinge, or do both). Your door scrapes against the top of the jamb that houses the strike plate (tighten the top hinge, shim the bottom hinge, or do both)
  3. Your door squeaks against the bottom of the jamb that houses the strike plate
  4. It appears like your door is rubbing against bottom of the jamb that contains the striking plate (tighten bottom hinge, shim top hinge, or do both)
  5. You have a problem with your door rubbing against the jamb that houses the hinges (tighten the bottom hinge, shim the top hinge, or do both)
  6. You have a problem with your door rubbing against the bottom jamb that houses the hinges (tighten the top hinge, shim the bottom hinge, or do both)

If your door is skewed in either direction, any of the remedies listed above will restore it to plumb or entirely vertical instead of inclined in either direction. The first thing you should do is tighten the hinge screws, which is a simple process. Drill or impact driver any of the screws on the hinge that are loose and tighten them all together. Begin by sinking the screws that secure the hinge to the jamb, and then go on to the screws that secure the hinge to the door. If, throughout this procedure, your screws just spin without becoming tight, proceed to Steps 23 and 24 instead.

Prehung Interior Door Fix2-Use LongerWider Screws

Sometimes the screws that are along with hinges are just 3/4 inch in diameter. This doesn’t make any sense to me because doors are typically hefty (I’m being a little sarcastic here) and are frequently utilized. Replace your little screws with 2 or 3 inch wood or deck screws to make a more substantial difference. The extra grip they give will help to keep the hinges fixed and your prehung door plumb. You can find these at any hardware shop and they are quite inexpensive.

Prehung Interior Door Fix3-Add Golf Tees to Screw Holes

To make bigger screw holes where the screw merely spins like Dorothy Hamill, use the traditional golf tee method that everyone knows. Add a little amount of wood glue to the end of the golf tee that will be sticking into the ground. Slide it into the screw hole and tap it in with a hammer to secure it in place. To finish the job, use your hammer or a utility knife to cut off the excess tee so that it is flush with the jamb or door frame. Voila! When you tighten your 2-inch screws with your drill, your screws will have something to bite into.

Furthermore, it is inexpensive.

Prehung Interior Door Fix4-Shim the Hinges

Shimming the hinges is as simple as putting cardboard behind them and closing the door. In order to complete this task, you’ll need to be a detective in the vein of Magnum PI or Columbo (by the way, which of these two characters do you prefer the most? Magnum is a great character, but Columbo had a better sense of humour in my opinion). You can learn how to implement all of the above steps, as well as how to utilize shims to keep your door from behaving badly, by watching the video below. To correctly utilize shims, you must first establish where your door is making contact with the jamb(s) or the floor.

  1. For example, if your door rubs against the floor near to the jamb where the strike plate is located, you should place a shim under the bottom hinge to compensate.
  2. Boxes for shoes (Thanks Zappos).
  3. Unscrew one side of your hinge and slide the cardboard into the space created by the screw.
  4. In order to make the shim a bit smaller, I always cut inside the tracing markings.
  5. Use the smallest quantity of shims necessary to keep your door from rubbing against the jamb or the floor.

In an ideal situation, the shimmed hinge would still be seated in the mortise. The mortise is a groove in the door or jamb where the hinge is installed to hold it in place. Your hinge will most likely grow loose over time if the mortise is not there.

What’s Next

You began with an inconvenient problem at the beginning of this guide, and now, perhaps, one of these four solutions will assist you in resolving your sticky prehung interior door issue. There is one more option, which is to trim the bottom of your door, which is an acceptable solution. However, this is the final option and is the subject of another piece. Also, if your door opens or closes unexpectedly, we have a terrific guide that will teach you how to fix it. If you’re planning a bathroom redesign and need assistance, consider enrolling in one of our online courses– they’ll make your bathroom remodeling lot easier!

Cheers, JeffDoor Repairs & Installations

How to Adjust a Sagging Door

Article in PDF format Article in PDF format Humidity, loose screws, and an uneven foundation are all variables that can contribute to the drooping of an exterior door. A sagging posture might cause gaps in the door, enabling drafts to get through, or it can prevent the door from aligning correctly with the latch plate and shutting properly. A drooping door is often repaired by removing it from its frame, sanding or planeing it, and then refinishing and repainting it. This method, on the other hand, might be time-consuming and need a significant amount of effort.

Before you take your door off its hinges, try some of these ways to fix a sagging door and you might save yourself a lot of time, effort, and aggravation.

  1. 1Identify the source of the sagging door. Inspect the door from the inside, or from the side where you can view the hinges, whichever is most convenient. Identify the gaps and areas where the door is too tight. In sagging doors, it is usual for the hinge side at the bottom to be closer against the frame than the other sides. It is common for the opposing side, known as the strike side, to be gapped at the top and tightly closed where the door hits the sill. 2 Check to verify that the door and frame are both level. To establish whether or not the door frame itself is level, use a bubble level and a carpenter’s square. In order to determine whether or not the bubble has settled between the viewer’s two lines, place the bubble level against the left and right sides of the door jamb, as well as the top. You can use a carpenter’s square or a steel square to measure the four corners of the door jamb to see whether they are out of square with the rest of the jamb.
  • In other cases, you may find that the door is level but that the frame is not square. If the frame is out of square, you might be dealing with other issues such as a moved wall or a sinking foundation as well. If you find yourself in this circumstance, you may discover that planning is your only option.
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  2. s3 All hinge screws should be checked and tightened. Check to determine if the hinges and screws are still snugly lodged in the door and jamb when the door is open, beginning at the top and moving down. To tighten all of the screws, use a screwdriver rather than a drill, and be careful not to overtighten any of them. It means they’re tight if the screws are giving your driver a hard time and the hinges are securely in place. Overtightening may result in the holes being stripped or the door being pushed farther out of line. Advertisement
  1. 1Look for and patch any holes that have been stripped. If you discover a stripped hole, position a doorstop under the open door to prevent the weight from falling through for a short while. The hinge with the stripped hole should be removed by removing the screws that hold it in place from the door jamb and frame, as well as, if required, from the front of the door. Insert a dowel of sufficient size into the hole after dipping it in carpenter’s glue — you can get these at any major hardware shop. As soon as the glue has dried, predrill a hole with an adequately sized bit, and then reinstall the hinge and its screws. 2 Longer hinge screws should be used in place of shorter ones. If you’ve performed a basic inspection and tightened the hinges, but your door continues to droop, it’s possible that your screws are not long enough. Remove a screw from the top hinge and set it aside. Without being 2 1/2 to 3 inches long, the screw will be unable to penetrate the jamb and reach the wall stud, resulting in an inability to hold the entire weight of the door. Old screws should be removed and pre-drilling into the jamb and wall studs should be done before replacing them with longer ones
  • After each screw has been replaced, make sure the door is level. It is expected that the longer screw will snag on a wall stud and draw the door closer to the wall. Make cautious not to overtighten the screws.
  • 3) Insert shims between the hinge and the doorjamb to stabilize the hinge. Thin pieces of cardboard, wood, or playing cards can be used as shims to fit between the hinge and jamb and to assist in aligning the hinge and the door. Remove the relevant hinge, which is usually the top hinge, then draw and cut out the shape of the hinge from your shim material using the tracing paper. Make use of the thinnest materials feasible in order to be able to add layers to the hinge mortise one at a time until the door is level once again.
  • It is possible that you may need to place shims on more than one hinge. This strategy entails a certain amount of guessing and double-checking. After each shim adjustment, it may be required to make further or smaller shim adjustments until the door is square.
  • 4 Mortise the door hinge into the door jamb. You can also “mortise” one or more of the hinges as an alternative method. You’ll need to score an outline around your hinge before removing it in order to do this. In the following step, after you’ve removed the hinge, you’ll carve out a deeper new pocket with a chisel.
  • Using a utility knife, score the contour of the hinges you wish to mortise in the first place. The hinges should be removed
  • Next, using the chisel, position it on the scored line, perpendicular to the door jamb. Lightly tap the chisel on the table to make the scoring a little deeper. Repeat the process around the whole circumference
  • Once you’ve completed the perimeter, use the chisel to create a series of cuts approximately 1/8 inch apart across the entire perimeter. The depth of the mortise will be determined in part by how much the door sags. Lastly, tap the chisel flat against the door to clean away any waste. It is necessary to replace the hinge.
  1. 1 Make a scribble on the door. It may be necessary to plane or sand the door after you’ve tightened or replaced screws, filled stripped holes, and attempted shims, if the door continues to droop. The line at which you should cease removing wood from the door will be marked by scribing or writing it on the door frame or door jamb. To begin, use a carpenter’s compass to draw a line on the side of the door that rubs against the jamb that is 1/8 inch from the edge of the door. Use masking or painter’s tape to outline the line in order to make it more noticeable.
  • A carpenter’s compass is the simplest instrument to use, and it is also the most affordable. If you don’t have one on hand, a pencil and straightedge will suffice. Apply masking tape to the inside of the line you drew: for example, if you scribed the left side of the door, apply the tape to the inside of the line on the right side of the line.
  • 2Remove the door from the frame. You won’t have to deal with removing the hinges from the door face because they are already attached. Instead of sanding or planning the strike edge, you’ll be sanding or planning the strike edge, so pop the hinge pins and remove the door. a) Move the door to an open space, such as the garage, and place it on a level surface, such as sawhorses or a worktable
  • And b) The scribed edge should be sanded or planed. The use of a belt sander is a fantastic choice. For the initial 1/16 inch, a sanding belt with an 80-grit grit should be used. Maintain movement with the sander to avoid wearing a hole in one location. Switch to a 150-grit belt for the second part of the job, and then a 120-grit belt when you get to the line to smooth it off
  • Keep in mind that during dry intervals, the humidity that causes the door to expand and stay at the bottom may dissipate, resulting in the door being cut too short. Make sure you don’t take too much of the door since you could reconnect the door and discover that you didn’t plan enough, in which case you’ll have to start over and repeat the process one or two more times. Remember that you may remove more doors but you cannot put back what you have previously removed, so sand with care. While the planer is more efficient than the belt sander, it is not as effective as it may be. It will also produce bigger sawdust, which will be less likely to be inhaled and will be easier to clean up because it will not drift as far away in the air as before. In addition, if the door is stuck on either the top side or the side of the knob, the planer may be used directly on the door without removing it. Remember to remove the latch hardware from the door before sanding the edge where the latch is located. It is possible that you may need to use a sharp chisel to dig out the latch hole so that it does not protrude from the door once it has been planed. If something stands out a little, you can usually sand or plane it back into place.
  1. 4Refinish and repaint the sanded edge to give it a new look. Remember to refinish and repaint the raw edge of the door once you’ve established that it has been correctly planed. Do not do so until you are certain that you have completed the sanding process. In order to prevent moisture from infiltrating the wood, a coat of varnish and paint should be applied before painting. This will reduce the likelihood of having to repair a sag in the future. Advertisement
See also:  What Degree Do I Need To Be An Interior Designer

Create a new question

  • Question Why isn’t my door closing properly? Andrew WatsonCompany Handiworks is a handyman in Austin, Texas, who is also the owner and operator of WatsonCompany Handiworks (a handyman business). Christopher has more than three years of expertise in a variety of fields, including outdoor lighting installation, furniture assembly, TV mounting, and window covering installation. Christopher graduated with honors from the University of Texas at Austin with a Bachelor of Business Administration degree. WatsonCompany Handiworks is recognized as a Top Pro on Thumbtack, which is an online rating service. Unlocking this expert answer will help to support wikiHow. If you’re having problems troubleshooting, try starting with the most basic reasons and working your way up. You don’t want to spend a lot of time and money fixing something that isn’t broken. Inspect your foundation to ensure that it hasn’t moved. Because of recent harsh weather, humidity might lead things to move a little bit in a positive or negative way. You should also inspect the hinges and make certain that all of the screws are securely fastened.

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  • Make use of a helping hand to make the process of operating the door a little simpler
  • Guess, verify, and repeat methods rather than, for example, sanding too much door or overtightening a screw are preferable alternatives. It is possible that you could damage hardware or that you will have to purchase a new door and jamb.


  • When working with power tools or sharp things, exercise caution. When using sanding equipment, always sure to use safety eyewear.


Things You’ll Need

  • Carpenter’s compass
  • Drill
  • Shims
  • Sandpaper
  • Belt Sander
  • Wood filler
  • Varnish
  • Paint
  • Bubble level, screwdriver, wooden dowels, Carpenter’s glue, 2 1/2-inch or 3-inch screws
  • Drill bit
  • Carpenter’s compass

About This Article

The writers of this page have together authored a page that has been read 102,799 times.

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Every family has its own set of holiday customs that are distinct from the others. For my wife and me, it seems like we spend the most of Thanksgiving Day fixing door hardware and adjusting door frames. Our condo in Kirkland, Washington, and our current property in New Hampshire both have this feature, which we used some years ago and enjoyed. It happened twice, and both times I was replacing builder quality brass Schlage hardware with finer, ‘Georgian’ style knobs and hinges from Schlage with a satin nickel finish.

  1. This is in stark contrast to the 1910 Craftsman bungalow we previously rented, where nearly no door closed properly until I spent a Thanksgiving break correcting all of those doors as well.
  2. Examine the door in the following ways: * Is it possible to shut it?
  3. (Do any evident wear signs from rubbing may be seen?) * Does the hardware have a good grip on it?
  4. If you lift the door handle a little, pay attention to how the hinges react – do you notice any slop in their motion?
  5. (Has anything been taken out to create place for a crooked or settled door frame?
  6. “” width=”225″ height=”300″ srcset=” h=300 225w, h=600 450w, h=150 113w” sizes=”(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px”>BEFORE: A sagging door with brass hardware was installed.
  7. When you open or close the door, it rubs a little bit on your fingers.
  8. As the door sank, the bottom left side of the door rubbed against the jamb.
  9. ” data-image-caption=”” The lower left side of the door rubbing as the door sagged is illustrated in this example.
  10. As you can see in the bottom image, the distance between the door and the frame gradually narrows until they are almost touching each other.
  11. (Image courtesy of Bill Rainford, 2015) “Top right of door is rubbing against the frame.

” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” src=” h=300″ alt=”Top right of door rubbing against the frame.” data-large-file=” src=” h=300″ alt=”Top right of door rubbing against the frame.” width=”225″ height=”300″ width=”225″ height=”300″ srcset=srcset=srcset “h=300 225 watts, h=600 450 watts, h=150 113 watts ” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” (max-width: 225px) 225px, 100vw, 100vw “> The following is an example of a formalized formalized formalized The right hand side of the door is pressing against the frame.

  • If we look at the top right of the door, we can see where the door is pressing and rubbing against the right jamb, which comes as no great surprise to us.
  • What can we do to resolve this situation?
  • Making sure that the screws keeping the hinges in place are nice and snug is the first thing I like to do.
  • It is possible that the screws will come free and/or strip the wood that originally held them firmly after years of usage or abuse (for example, a heavy object such as a shoe tree hanging from the inside of a door).
  • When properly installed, better hinge sets will include some longer screws that are useful in correcting or avoiding door droop.

When properly installed, better hinge sets will include some longer screws that are useful in correcting or avoiding door droop.” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” data-small-file=” src=””alt=”Brushed nickel screws with a height of 300″ h=300 When properly installed, better hinge sets will include some longer screws that are useful in correcting or avoiding door droop.

The size of the image is 289 pixels wide and 300 pixels high.” The next images are srcset=” h=300 289w,h=600 578w,h=150 145w” sizes=”(max-width: 289px) (max-width: 289px) 100vw, 289px”>Brushed nickel screws When properly installed, better hinge sets will include some longer screws that are useful in correcting or avoiding door droop.

  1. I’ll start by screwing in two screws – one in the top of each leaf and one in the bottom of each leaf.
  2. If any of the screws just continue to spin, this indicates that the screw has been stripped out and is now a candidate for replacement with one of the long screws.
  3. In order to produce a solid and long-lasting connection, this longer screw should pass through the jamb and into the thicker framing of the door.
  4. The leaf with three knuckles on the door jamb should be put first, followed by the leaf with two knuckles on the door itself.
  5. What should you do if the long screws are also unable to grip?
  6. The use of a small diameter dowel can be used to make a reasonable repair in the event that you do not want to replace the door and/or jamb.
  7. Insert a small length of 1/4′′ dowel into the newly created hole using glue and hammering it in place.

Then, using the hinge as a template, trace around the hole and re-drill it with a bit that is narrower than the screw you intend to use.

Use one of the hinges as a template.

” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” data-small-file=” src=” h=300″ alt=”Use one of the hinges as a template.

Securely affixing the new hardware fixed the issue on that particular door, but other doors in the house still didn’t line up the way I wanted and/or the hinge was set too deep and needed something more — some shims — to get the door back into proper alignment.

I then cut out what I traced being sure to ‘take the line’ that way I could be sure the template would fit.

I would test fit the shim and use one as the template for subsequent operations.

Once I had a small stack of these shims I could take a few test fittings and see how many I needed to pad out the hinge so it would be flush with the door jamb or door surface.

With the shim(s) in place the I’d use the same screw installation procedure described above.

(Image courtesy of Bill Rainford, 2015) ” data-image-caption=” Completed template.

” width=”225″ height=”300″ width=”225″ height=”300″ srcset=” h=300 225w,h=600 450w,h=150 113w” sizes=”(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px”> Completed template.

A hinge pin door bumper is the little metal bracket with adjustable rubber pads on it used to stop a door from opening too wide and potentially damaging walls or furniture.

You then put the pin through the bumper and gently tap it back down into the knuckles of the hinge.

I put the adjustable side of the bumper facing the trim and the fixed side against the door.

In my view the top and bottom most hinges are under the most stress and when the bumper is used its putting even more stress on the hinge and screws.

Note that the spacing between the door and the jamb is consistent.

” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” data-small-file=” src=” h=300″ alt=”Note that the spacing between the door and the jamb is consistent.

Mind the Gap As you are making these adjustments to the door you’ll want to watch the gap between the door and the jamb.

What to do if the gaps aren’t perfect?

If such is the case, use your discretion to do the best that you can.

AFTER: Properly adjusted door with new Schlage ‘Georgian’ style knobs.

(Image courtesy of Bill Rainford, 2015) ” data-image-caption=” AFTER: The door has been properly adjusted and new Schlage ‘Georgian’ style knobs installed.

Brushed nickel is used to finish the knobs and hinges of the cabinet.” width=”225″ height=”300″ width=”225″ height=”300″ srcset=srcset=srcset “h=300 225 watts, h=600 450 watts, h=150 113 watts Sizes are as follows: (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px “> The following is an example of a formalized formalized formalized AFTER: The door has been properly adjusted and new Schlage ‘Georgian’ style knobs installed.

Brushed nickel is used to finish the knobs and hinges of the cabinet.

Double-check to make sure you haven’t misaligned anything if the striking plate is now significantly off, such as 1/4 inch or more.

This can take a significant amount of time and effort, and it can be unsightly because you don’t want to chew up a significant amount of the wood in the door jamb, graft on wood dutchmen or shims to fill gaps left by the old mortise, or use a significant amount of putty to fill the gap left by the previous location.

If necessary, you can remove the strike plate from the door, clamp it in a vice, and file the aperture slightly smaller so that the latch now properly engages with the striking plate.

Pro-Tip: Files are only cut when the push stroke is executed.

Also, keep an eye out for burs and make sure you’re cutting straight up and down in line with the existing aperture in the striking plate before proceeding.

I know I’m a lot happier now that all of my doors are properly closing and staying closed on their own.

Take precautions, -Bill The following post is the first in an occasional series of Handyman 101 and/or Woodworking 101 postings designed to assist those new to this type of work in becoming accustomed to doing typical chores.

P.S. In the comments section or via the contact page form, please let me know if you have any particular requests for themes you’d like to see covered in the future.

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